I'manedgeowner

akirby, I agree. Before we moved into town with small yards a neighbor tried pulling a metal shed off a slab and as soon as he hit the lawn it wouldn't budge with his newer high HP mower. I got the AC and I could have dragged the shed anywhere he wanted it and that was without lifting it with the 3 point PTO hitch. It was a wheelie machine too if you weren't careful.

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I think it's more than just the Edge. I've been told ignition grounding is weak because of safety precautions to isolate the clock spring. This problem isn't common but it's not rare either on F150's and light duty 250's. enigma-2, If this is the same problem as the trucks than the instrument cluster works normally. Everything seems to work normally except it doesn't crank.

Although I don't know the specifics of the Edge's parking brake set up the problem you describe shouldn't have anything to do with your calipers. I believe the parking brake is a drum style brake that is cable controlled. Typically the disk brake rotor is removed for access to the parking brake adjustment at the bottom of the shoe setup. The adjuster is a geared wheel that is turned to adjust the parking brake. I believe the wheel is turned up on the passenger side and down on the driver side to tighten the shoes. It's also rare from my experience that a parking brake isn't all mechanical.

With tires, you usually get what you pay for. That's not to say I don't understand sometimes they are just cost prohibitive. If I could I'd have Bridgestone or Pirelli's on every street car but I don't.

I don't need a rider anymore but when I did I had both a Wheelhorse and Allis Chalmers mower that I picked up used and completely rebuilt. I don't think either are made anymore they were built to last and everything is available from real hardware stores or a place like Grainger. For a fraction of the cost I had mowers that I'd bet are still running today. The AC also had most any accessory you could imagine for the PTO that was standard. I also wonder why a rebuilt 12 hp Kohler from the 60's smokes a current 20 hp engine? I normally disregard the praise for what "use to be" and the "back in my day" nonsense but not on this one.

I've never had the pan off so is the windage tray plastic or metal?

The rear hatch angle. I'd prefer it was more boxy so something that fits the floor space won't hit the window when closing the hatch. The angle seems extreme compared to comparable vehicles.

Interesting. There's a statue of Custer in town that has a checkered past because of the symbolic inaccuracies in the statue but no one has ever been able to tell me what they are. What happened to Custer is probably common knowledge worldwide but the statue has the horse will all 4 hoofs on the ground, Custer has his hat off and his sword is in it's scabbard. There are some that would say Custer died of natural causes. When the statue was unveiled a lot of people rejected the statue and wanted it removed but Libby Custer was at the unveiling and she liked the statue so it stayed "as is." No offense to anyone but the local joke is, "This is the only town north of the Mason Dixon Line that has put up a statue to a loser." Edit: "Stop tryimg to lcik your eblow." Not sure what to stop but I'm sure I didn't start.

I've seen "wanted to rent cherry picker" listings on Craigslist here. You might want to try it.

You might want to consider ebay for something like an ELM327 OBD2 interface with pc software. This will allow you to record your engine operation yourself for the dealer. Some will allow you to chose what gets recorded also so your not wasting space with monitoring unrelated systems. Most will allow you to download data so you can collect a lot of data. If you don't mind ordering from China, you can do this for probably less than $10.00.

IWRBB, You're right that I couldn't find a kit made for this engine but I did call Meziere and they said people have been using pump WP336S connected to the lower hose. They wouldn't suggest how to deal with the existing pump but people have been swapping out to electric pumps. I posted this in another post if the pump number is wrong. I'm not too sure I can agree with swapping a used engine being less expensive. An electric pump with everything needed would be less than $400. Any future repairs to the pump would be $50 to $100 which would be much less than replacing the mechanical pump and the engine doesn't have to be touched. The aluminum needed will be no more than $10 to $15 and the machining won't cost me anything except the time to program the machining. This isn't even difficult anymore with the cad program built right into the machine controls. Cutting speeds and tool changes are even automatically programmed for you now. Granted, my aluminum welding can sometimes leave me wanting so I might pay for that but still I can't imagine it to be anymore than $30 or $40 at most if I start with a new pump that hasn't absorbed any welding contaminants. There are some eco boost electric pump kits but for the 3.5 or not I don't know. The truck 3.5's have an external pump and I've wondered about those too. I'm not familiar with this engine enough to know how the coolant is routed in the trucks or if the front engine cover will fit on a car engine? Just saw that the car has 39,754 miles but at 11 years old and all I've read about the pump problems I don't have much confidence in it's remaining life. This is an inevitable problem waiting to happen. Edit: OK, Summit wants $438.47 for this pump with a universal mount and wiring. So a bit more than I said. I also have 2 Coyote Cobra Jet electric pumps already and I could try one of those.

Put the sensor in and the car started right up. I'm not ready to call it fixed though. We've finally have a cooler day and it's only 82 right now. It was 102 when it died so I need to wait for it to warm up more to make sure air density isn't a gremlin.

The MAF sensor I ordered came yesterday but didn't see it until this morning. There's a bench test read out for it showing it's within specs. It's exactly the same as the one off the car including the part number which apparently isn't made anymore. This part begins with 3L3A while the current Hitachi part number for the car is 3L3Z. Everything else is the same. This isn't unusual for Ford though. Now it needs to be a solution.

Just a thought here and probably not your problem but it could be. Find out what happens on cement and\or dirt roads. It's been so hot here the last couple of weeks that just sitting in the driveway cars sink into the asphalt and leave divots. Turning the wheels on asphalt is sometimes like the tires have been glued to the asphalt. Was just laughing about this today when leaving the grocery store. You might also want to try a lube job. If it's untypically hot where you are the grease used on your car may be breaking down. A couple of years ago I was at an off road desert race where it was abnormally hot and grease was puddling under the trucks like they all had oil leaks. The underfunded, independent teams were scrambling to get their hands on higher temperature lubes because what didn't leak out was too thin to do the job. That year the race had the highest number of non-finishers recorded and all due to the heat. If this isn't your problem you're doing no harm and if it is, it's much less expensive than tearing in to your suspension and brakes.

enigma-2, Your logic is right on but why I like the electric pump idea. The original cost will be more than replacing the conventional pump because either way the front of the engine has to be tore down. It's with any subsequent repairs that the savings would be overwhelmingly less. Electric pumps can also be repaired when they fail at a fraction of their up front cost. If failures of the pump were limited to typical high mileage, end of life I would agree. From what I've read about the failures though there is a year range which includes my 08' where failures are common at any mileage. Unfortunately there isn't much information about failures due to age rather than mileage. My Edge is 11 years old but just turned over 40,000 miles. Can I expect to see the pump to last 25 years when the car might see 100k? I doubt it. I also keep my daily drivers, if that's what this car is, until their done. I understand the many reasons why some keep their cars for only so long and replace them but that's not me. I have to add this too. I enjoy doing things like this. Even more so now that I'm retired and time isn't given the deference it once was. Where 2 weeks to replace a water pump would have been unacceptable it doesn't matter now. As far as your idea of monitoring the pump with noise or vibration sensors should be easy enough to do. The difficulty would be with developing acceptable sensor ranges. If somebody has already developed this information it would make the idea much more appealing. Without it though, you'd have to do it yourself and that kind of bench testing comes with a cost that would shame any kind of costs as yet considered.

Just my 2 cents but the difference between 20" and 21" will be negligible. The tires you use will have a much greater impact on your ride quality. My 2008 came with Hankook tires with a speed rating of 130 MPH and a load index I don't exactly remember but it was way out of any useful range I'd ever have any use for. My edge will never see 100 MPH let alone 130. If your tire ratings compared to what you actually need are anything like mine, putting tires on the car matching your need will have a much greater effect on ride quality than an inch of tire size. Just my opinion but this is where I'd start.

enigma-2, I agree. I don't think there is any substitute for recommended maintenance. I'm sure we've all heard the "old wives tales," and the latest, greatest homeopathic remedies for auto maintenance. I'll stick to the schedules and let the rest amuse me. After I wrote my last I got to thinking about the videos. The guy talked about acids so I wondered what the Ph of antifreeze is. Turns out it should be around 9.5 which makes it an alkali. Acids are 0+ to neutral at 7. Makes me wonder what the guy was thinking when he mentioned acids eating at the seals? I think what should be taken away from what the engineer told me was the cam chain runs more than one system, coolant and valve train which have different wear rates or patterns with an emphasis on the valve train operation. Mileage on the pump doesn't seem to be the problem either. The pumps on properly maintained engines are getting respectable mileage. The problem is where the pump is located when it does go. Accepting what I've read on the internet, it is located where it is because of space in the engine compartment and not because of some other practical benefit for putting it where it is. It's just one of the many compromises that go in to every car design. I didn't mention this but I was more interested in his opinions on how to seal the pump permanently between the water and oil and installing an electric pump. His suggestion was to fabricate a billet aluminum cap with a oil impregnated bronze bearing\bushing the length of the internal side of the shaft, remove the impeller and Tig weld the cap in place. I have access to a shop with a CMM and CNC milling centers and I planned on looking in to this when I get the car running again. The other option is to reroute the chain off of the pump. I don't want to mess with that. Electric pumps don't have the life cycle of mechanical pumps but considering the failures I've read about even with proper maintenance this seems to be a cost effective solution.

enigma-2, Interesting videos but #1 being just watching a water jet, well? First, it's been a long time since my chemistry but I have a hard time with the "acids" in coolant having much of an effect. It takes some uncommon acids to have a catastrophic effect on glass, rubber or plastics. I doubt the seal is made from a rubber that would be effected or that a coolant uses an acid that would effect the seal. I say this just because it seems like common sense and not because I'm a chemist or know enough chemistry to be any kind of authority. Second, I think what the video shows furthers the points made by the guy I was talking to. The shaft going through the pump is functionally a lever. The tensioner applies force to the gear on the outside of the pump and the failure starts on the inside of the pump. The farther the shaft gets from the force applied at the gear, the greater the force gets. It shouldn't be surprising that failure begins inside of the pump because of leverage. The chain tensioner is designed to maintain the operation of the heads so how much thought was given to their effect to forces on the pump? My understanding from what I was told is that the wear pattern of the pump isn't the same as the what's needed by the wear pattern of the rest of the system to keep the operation of the heads in spec. Ultimately what I got from what he said was the pump operates better with it's normal wear then with the wear corrections induced by the tensioners because the corrections promote pump failure. Also the problems arise from the pump location more than the actual failure of the pump which doesn't seem unreasonable by mileage. I did ask him how he came to these conclusions but he wouldn't say. That's not unusual though. Is this something he worked on, read or heard? I don't know but the nature of his work is proprietary and I don't think he would want to be responsible for any finger pointing because of something he said. Growing up a good friend of my dad's was an engineer that diagnosed vibration and he wouldn't talk about the work he did unless something became common knowledge. He studied things like hydroelectric dams though.

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, All I can say from what I've seen is you're informed and offer advice freely when you can. You're not alone either. I have seen forums where there is an expectation of knowing everything already to participate. The MAF I ordered should be a Hitachi than. It came off a new but never used Ford engine.

This morning I met and spent some time talking to an engineer that works for a place that diagnoses automotive pattern failures so I asked him what he knew about the failures with the Ford internal water pump. When I first learned about this problem here my thought was that running a water pump with a gear is a bad idea for torque reasons. Apparently that's possible but not the primary cause. The problem is usually the result of the timing chain tensioner. Obviously the tensioner monitors the chain tension as it loosens due to stretch caused by age and wear of the chain, guides and gears. It's also effected by the wear of the valve train in the heads. The water pump is apparently better off to run with the wear from age and use than to be subjected to constant readjusted tensioning of the chain. Some additional information from him was that problems can arise from partial component repairs. He said it's not good to swap out something like a single tensioner that's going bad or just the chain or guides. Get the kit and replace everything if you're going to replace anything. He said a lot of repair shops will replace single components instead of the entire system. He said it was common at one time that because of noise just the guides would be replaced. Finally he warned about using caution with changing oil weights because of oil pressure losses due to age and wear. The hydraulic tensioners operate on oil pressure but are not designed to operate properly with a heavier oil. To a point it can result in to much tension but there is also a point where too heavy of an oil actually impedes tensioning. The oil doesn't flow properly and it also doesn't properly thin with heat along with operating temperatures of the rest of the engine. Thought I'd pass this along.

My sister stopped by today with her 6 month old focus with the same problem. Her car is still under warranty but I had the same problem with my 2008 a couple of years ago. Turned out to be the fan control module. It also seems to be a common problem that shows up in a lot of different ways on many models. On some the problem is high speed, others it's low speed, others in between. The module is behind the glove box on the 2008 and an easy fix. I think the module was around $30.

Do I get an almost?

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, That's some good information you've shared. The person I talked to designs the fuel delivery systems for Honda racing bikes. He does everything from designing the IC chips to programming to fitting everything to the bikes. I get the impression you and he could sit down and have a conversation that would be Greek to most of us. While educating me he spent a fair amount of time also explaining the workings of the knock sensor along with real and false data strategies, the effects forced induction engines with turbos have and how the TPS fits in with a MAF engine. Your mentioning the same was affirmation for me of some comprehension on my part. It's not unusual for me to wonder about what just happened after a PCM strategy discussion that involves extended cause and effect relationships. I appreciate the time you and others have taken here with my engine problem. I cancelled my order for the MAF sensor this morning. It was still on back order and I found another source while ordering some injector pigtails for a Coyote. Thought I'd share the information here in case anyone else is looking for one. I'm not sure of the forum policy for mentioning dealers so I'll just they're on Ebay. They're new Ford OEM take off's from a company that uses the engine for generators and industrial machinery. He buy's them from that company and is selling them for $18 with free USPS shipping. He also has starters, alternators and other stuff with the same kind of pricing. Thanks again.

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I was corrected last night about what I said about a PCM defaulting to MAF tables. What I wrote was true with the closed loop, narrow band O2 sensors. Apparently it's not true with the engines that have open loop, wide band O2 sensors that use the PCM to limit engine power output. I don't have any experience with PCM's that limit power output. It's a useless strategy for what work I do on engines. Interceptors are needed with stock OEM, PCM's when stage 2 and 3 performance modifiers are added to an engine to allow the enhanced performance to be realized. This is what I was told from what has always been a reliable source. Do you have anything to add?

enigma-2, I think the part you are referring to is the thermostat housing. chefduane, Just my 2 cents but I think a coolant system flush with a dedicated flush product is a good idea regardless of changing coolant type or not. They have additives to help break up the "gunk" that builds up in the system that water alone can't do. If you've never flushed a coolant system you might be surprised by how much junk comes out.