14AWD3.5

So where do you jack up the front from? What suspension component do you use with a floor jack to raise the front up?

Ok for the one person who’s reading this, the second full flush with another qt of Mercon LV has quieted the pump. Guess it didn't like the generic OReilleys ps fluid.

Well I started it today, the Harbor Freight pump is exactly the same as the one from the auto parts store so save yourself $10 and go to HF. The problem with their included hose is that it kinks easily. The second issue that I found is that if you tape up the hose to pump connections (so the hose doesn’t come out of the siphon pump itself), then the hose collapses on itself as it creates too much of a vacuum. (See update below) Last and biggest problem is that there is a restrictor in the Edge’s dipstick tube which only allows an 1/8 inch diameter tubing to go down into the transmission pan. The 3/8” tube that comes in the syphon will not go down the fill pipe. Fortunately there was a short length of 1/8” included in the siphon kit. I could only get 2 quarts out, and it was a slow process because the tube still tried to collapse upon itself and the 1/8 inch did not allow for a large volume transfer. Probably took me 20 minutes to get out that 2 qts. (See update about temp of fluid) With less than 50,000 miles on this transmission fluid, it was browner than I would have liked (No red, all brown). So I’m going to continue with a slow process of extracting 2 qts at a time. If you have a floor jack and the necessary ways of blocking your car up with, you likely will find it much quicker to drain out the 3 or 3 1/2 quarts by using the drain plug. Sadly, I do not have a floor jack or anything else, and frankly it’s not worth $150 or more in parts to buy a floorjack and jackstands. I don't wrench much. I’ll let you know how things continue. Oh, you will need a long neck filler funnel to get down to where the transmission fluid opening is, your standard funnels will not reach. I had to cut the bottom out of a 1 liter water bottle and invert it. Sigh. Amateur follies! ***Update, later same day. When the fluid is fully warmed up the hose doesn’t kink as much yet it still takes a good 10 minutes to siphon out 2 qts. I did that twice more so there's been 7 qts changed out now. I still have 2 more qts to do later this week, which will get me roughly 50% changed out, give or take. I'm going by the color of the fluid, as I have no idea how well the fluid has been diluted and thus has been replaced... So is using the siphon pump worth it? Not really, if you give your time any value. However, if you are like me and see no need to buy a floorjack and stands just to do this service then yes, it's ok. One advantage of the siphon is that if you don't want to deal with 3-3.5 qts flowing out onto the ground/floor and then pouring all that off, it is easier to just pump out a "measured amount" like 1-2 qts, then pour that fluid into the new/old 1 qt containers and recycle that. One last "plug" for only draining a portion as opposed to a complete flush for those who have put off changing their fluid to like 90-100K miles. There's so much controversy on the internet and on YouTube videos about whether or not you should do a complete flush. All I can tell you is that my local Firestone now will not do a complete fluid flush on higher mileage vehicles just because of the liability for the transmission... They refused to do mine, and I only had 63K.

I had Firestone change mine out (drain and fill) at 60 ish K, probably didnt need it but it’s done for life now. It cost about $100, I was having the PTU fluid done at the same time so figured why not.

I will try it Sunday or Monday and report back. I have 8 qts of Mercon LV fluid now, which when mixed likely won’t be much more than 50%, if that, of really new fluid. I only have 64K on it so it’s not like it’s really old. I will measure how much I can pull out of the dipstick tube so peeps know how that works.

I ended up calling Ford parts and they said it is a 2.4 pint capacity, so just over 1 qt. The parts guy said use Mercon 5 but LV would be ok, as it is a more recent fluid... Since I only flushed 1 qt, there will still be old fluid in the system, so I’d better flush another quart. Maybe then that will quiet it as its even noisier now (likely is air in the line). Next on my list of maintenance items to try and screw up is the trans fluid getting siphoned out through the dipstick. I’ve got 8 qts of Mercon LV to use, will try and siphon out, refill, drive, siphon out, refill, drive... maybe 2.5 times of doing that. Won’t change it all but should get it roughly 50% renewed. (10 qt capacity)

I plan on trying the transfer siphon pump thru the dipstick tube approach. Already bought 5 qts of Mercon LV and the $17 hand pump (which I see from YTube is likely the same as the HF version for $7). Anyway, despite wasting $10 (I could have gotten another qt of Mercon...) I hope to get appx 3 qts out of the pan that way, refill, drive about 10 miles, then do it again with the last 2 qts. Thats not 50% due to mixing old and new but its still a decent start at it. Dealer wanted $225 plus tax so about $245 to do a flush, I’d rather just do it over time myself. I will report back next week when its done.

Hi again, I’m thinking its the use of the wrong ps fluid. I had used O'Reilley's generic “Ford approved” fluid, 1 qt worth. That drained and refilled the reservoir 3-4 times. Now 8K later I thought I’d see if using a motocraft Mercon LV ATF would improve anything. I performed the same pump out and refill, turning wheels lock to lock about 5 times each drain and fill, for a total of 4X, which was just over 1 qt. However, even reading the specifcations page in the manual theres no fluid capacity listed for the p steering. Kinda’ stumped. So anyone know how many qts are needed to fully flush out the system?

From the carcomplaints.com site, dated Feb 15, 2020: Saw this today, apparently no recourse for the owners who sued due to the internal waterpump failures causing complete engine replacement: FORD DURATEC LAWSUIT OVER WATER PUMPS MAY BE ENDING Ford Duratec engine class action lawsuit was dismissed, but the judge may allow it to be refiled. By David A. Wood , CarComplaints.com Posted in News So apparently the judge dismissed all 55 claims from the plaintiffs but said she would possibly consider it being refiled. Probably nothing will come of it. I just posted it for those who have had or are wondering about the issue. i couldn’t get the headline resized down.

Anyone? crickets...

Guess I’m an old school change every 3K miles person. I’ve had the Edge since 17K, now 62K, and always used conventional (gasp, engine abuse) at various Ford dealers (!) and Firestone shops. So stay tuned for me reporting the motor blew up or the synthetic police have found me... I just can’t see that this engine, as lightly used as it is, will be harmed with up to date conventional oils changed out that often.

Shops like Goodyear and Firestone will do a charging system check, and usually apply the fee ($35) to the repairs.

Well theres a couple other things you need to get checked at your trusty blue oval shop, like getting the coolant changed (internal water pump dont let that fail) and the PTU fluid on the awd. Don’t skip that one either. Both repairs are like $2400 and $1600 respectively. While you are in there have them run a diagnostic for the surging and mileage issues, cars are too complicated to properly internet diagnose. It does sound fuel related though, maybe. Course by now you should have already found out what it was...

Er, what with the water pump and awd ptu problems, might as well be proactive and give it away. With the internet and the number of ex-purts on the forums, should be able to find that perfect vehicle. yep, Ford has had some engine issues, thats true. Their Explorer with the 4.0 had timing chain stretch problems, then there were the early 2000’s Ford Triton V8/V10 exhaust manifold/studs breaking off, like 5 or 6 out of 10 was common. And where would we be without the Ford Powerstroke 6.0 and 6.4 diesel catastrophic engine failures? There was some great designs... to the tune of $12K and up... not to just rag-on Ford but GM 3400 and 3800 Series II Upper Plastic Intake manifold failures at the EGR pipe. I had 2 of those Buicks with that issue, $1000 each. For extra fun, once the DEX-COOL coolant was contaminated it would start to turn to a thick brown sludge. GM never admitted shee-it and left us holding the bag. Come to think of it, I haven’t owned a GM since... I must be sore still. Hmm, oh yea, the Chrysler 2.7 engine, due to poor design (too-small oil passages plus higher than normal operating temps) it suffered from major oil sludge problems. How about the 1978 Oldsmobile LF9 350 diesel? Years ago, had a neighbor with a Toronado that had one. After the class action lawsuits came out, he walked over and asked for my 3/8 drill. He had found a way to connect it to the odometer cable and just locked the drill “on” until the miles rolled back over into the acceptable still in warranty range. Then he had the motor “repaired” and sold it. I did get a new drill out of the deal though. ? Non engine problems that come to mind, any Lincoln with air ride, most 2000-2010 Mercedes with air ride. Every Range Rover with air ride, ever. Some newer 4th gen RAM trucks with air ride up that are north, they freeze up in the real cold and fail. Can’t forget the 1994-2000 Caddy STS Northstar motor that has so many “halfcase” lower oil leaks and costs like $2800 to repair...not to mention their head gaskets. Well, back to this POS Edge design discussion... For me, changing the coolant and PTU lube more often is acceptable. But hey, feel free to find some other wonder carmaker (try honda’s with the vcm that wears out the #3 cylinder...) and go over to them. The list is endless.

Hi all, So my extended warranty is up March 30 and I thought I’d get this checked but wanted to know what you all thought. My 62K 2014 awd has been fine (3 tpu changes, 1 coolant, 1 tranny, 1 rdu, and my own p steering and brake fluid reservoir drain and fill) however for the last 10k or so miles I have been hearing (only at low speed as tires mask it) an rpm dependent whine, fairly quiet. I know it might be a pulley or bearing or trans but can’t tell. It doesn’t seem to make the noise except when in D and moving. When I rev it some in N or P I don’t hear it. I know that all fluid levels are ok. Any thoughts?

Would be nice to get all these PTU threads merged into one, though it would be big. I've posted on others that for non DYI ers, just take it to Firestone or Goodyear, I had to show them (Firestone) where the fill/drain plug was but then $80 later it was done. I've had 50% success with Ford dealers, one did the change, another refused saying "its a lifetime fluid". duhh I have done mine 3x in 55K, now will settle down to every 30K, along with coolant. Don't forget your RDU at least once.

What Perblue said. My son has a 14' AWD Cherokee, it's a beast in snow. My AWD Edge is ok enough, doesn't match the Cherokee though. Course my wide 20" rims/tires don't help, and as other posters have said, it's more the tires than most anything else (other than driver experience). I have legit "snowflake rated" Pirelli Scorpion tires on it, just not much ground clearance. His are 18's with a taller height.

For all you non-DIY ers (me mostly), I went to my local Firestone and had both the PTU and RDU drained/refilled. They used their powered pump and had both units fluids changed out in 30 minutes total from driving in to leaving. Cost $197. Same 75-140 for PTU and 80-90 for RDU. Both reservoirs are small so don't use more than appx 1/2 qt apiece. Yes you can save all the labor charges by changing your own RDU fluid as was posted above. I'm old and lazy so I didn't. I think that will do it for the RDU (it has 55K, shouldn't need anything else) and I'll keep the PTU changes about every 25-30K (same as coolant).

Update and thread bump. Got my 3rd PTU flush (this time at a Firestone dealer, $80 by itself) at 55,000 miles. That should be well under any fluid thickening issue. Fluid (75/140) came out relatively clean. 1/2 qt (appx) replaced. Manager said they'd never changed the PTU fluid on an Edge before! I had to show them where the drain plug was located. Then I had them drain and fill the RDU (rear diff). 75/90 Ford equivalent fluid. This old fluid was dirtier looking. Glad I got that changed. Sure is a small differential housing. Took them all of 35 minutes for both, nice having a lift and a power transfer pump machine to do the work. I don't have ramps or jackstands, though I could have bought them all for the total price ($197) but the convenience was what I paid for. Done with the PTU now for another 25K, and the RDU till 100K. Guys don't forget to flush your coolant to protect that internal water pump!

duplicate post

Just getting both the PTU and the RDU done now. $85 for the PTU and $98 for the RDU. Local Firestone. They'd never drained a PTU but they had a tech who had been a mechanic at Ford, he said he had replaced many! He said the PTU oil was ok ( not dirty or thick) while the rear diff looked a bit milky, which I didn't particularly like seeing. i had him put synthetic in the PTU, regular 75/90 gear oil in the RDU. Took all of 35 minutes, $196.14

A little late to this party but heres what I did: (2014 3.5) At 55K I bought a qt of Ford compatible fluid from an auto parts store. Got a turkey baster $3), a dollar store small funnel )1) and an old water jug. Place some cardboard under the tires so you don't cause extra wear on the pump (they will now turn easily and you don't need to go for a drive). Siphon out the reservoir, refill with fresh fluid up to the top line. You will get about a pint out. Lock to lock the steering wheel about 8 times to get the fluid into the lines and punp. Then repeat the entire process twice more. I used about 1/2 a qt of new fluid, still have some old in the gearbox and lines but will just do this again in a few days. Total cost under $10. You'll want a few paper towels for wiping drips and a small funnel. Total time about 15-20 minutes. Just make sure its Ford compatible, I didn't use auto trans fluid like sone people said. The old fluid was dark red (had a dye), new was clear ( no dye) so its a light pink now. Pump wasn't making any noises, just a simple and low-cost preventative maintenance item.

Just get it changed at a Ford dealer or a reputable shop. 1/2 Ford dealers service reps “knew” of the ability to change the TPU fluid, thus I went to the one that did. I stayed with Ford because I had an ESP on my 2014 Limited and wanted the documentation. It cost me appx $100 to have the TPU serviced (old grease/fluid sucked out and new installed) through the fill plug. I’ve had it done twice now in 52K miles, will get it serviced again at the 60K mark. Don’t forget to get the engine coolant changed, if you lose the water pump its a very expensive repair. I did not know that either was an issue until I read on this forum about each.

Resurrecting an old thread. This issue of “No Key Detected” happened to my wife 2 days ago. I get a phone call and text to the effect of “car wont start” and an emoji of disgust. I actually had it happen (first time ever) a few days earlier and told myself to go get the fob battery changed. Now I had to... or sleep outside. So I YT it and voila, find the emergency slot, that gets me going to the local Batteries Plus store. $10 later both fobs have new batteries and its starting fine. Since ours is a Feb 2014 build date and these fob batteries are original, I guess it was time! Now for the original battery... Anyone have advice on that? It still cranks fine, no BMS warnings and I put it on the charger 1X a month for 24 hours...

Hi, ive had the troublesome TPU oil changed twice now in 43K miles. Both times at the same Ford dealer it was bought from. Both times cost between $100-120 USD and of course used Ford fluid. I havent had the RDU diff fluid changed, and am wondering what the concensus is for getting the RDU serviced when the vehicle is not facing “severe” usage. 2014 AWD 3.5 Thanks