14AWD3.5

105K update. Had the neighbor mechanic siphon out the PTU (or try to). He was using a (more professional grade) hand pump and said that his hose bottomed out in the PTU but he couldn't get anything out. Now after 4 changes in 105K it shouldn't be sludge, so I'm not sure just what the problem was. He did get the (.5 or .6 liters) of new 75-140 synthetic fluid in, so how is that possible if it wasn't almost dry? Hmm, not sure but the bottle was only 12 ounces and we used about half of it till it started weeping out Never have had a spot on the driveway or in the garage and the plug /area around it was bone dry. I did notice that my persistent (what I thought was the power steering pump) whine is now gone. Coincidence? All this done with just jackstands.

Appreciate the input. As opposed to my finicky RAM that can only digest real AT-4 fluid or suffer tranny damage, perhaps the Ford 6 speed can handle it. Hope so. It sure is an easy pan drain, takes maybe 20-30 minutes total including the cleanup. Makes keeping the trans fluid fresh not so much of a chore.

Flushed twice with (real) Mercon LV by turkey basting draining the reservoir, going lock to lock with the top off to “burp”, then siphoning out again. Never helped though.

I would wonder why bother turning it off/disabling it anyway? Mine seems to not cost me any mpg penalty based on sticker ratings, so what's the advantage?

4th PTU fluid change at 72K. Same Firestone, same cost, the fluid looked fine, no smells, no drips. Kinda' hate to keep changing it every 20K but guess $100 is cheaper than $1600... Though I wonder if I can stretch the intervals out to 30K now that its been done 4 times. Other than the persistent rpm dependent power steering pump whine, the car has been a gem. Consistent 24 mpg's per dash meter on highway at appx 65-70. I just can't get the ps unit quiet and Ford refused to do anything just before the ext warranty ran out at 70K.

On my gen 1 2014 I had it serviced at appx 70K at 6 years old. Gear oil still looked fine. Used synthetic gear oil. Reason I did it was age and a bit of U-Haul towing. Tiny rear end punkin' though... So it's probably good for another 100K now. Just how much does the rear end ever engage anyways?

OK at the risk of automotive fluid heresy, having watched a couple Farm Project videos, one of which was on Supertech oil vs others, the result was that it was fine to use. Question is, what about the Walmart non-branded Mercon LV? And strangely enough it also says Dexron usage too... I had drained the trans pan, appx 6 qts 2 weeks ago and used the $18 jug (1 gallon) of WM Mercon LV instead of O'Reilleys $6.85/qt Mercon LV. Trans sounds and shifts the same after about 1,000 miles on it (course that's less than 50% mixed). What say you all? A - it's ruined, get ready to replace it B - maybe not the best practice but ok C - oil branding is all hype

Late reading and replying but on my 14’ Edge the Firestone charge for the PTU and the RDU services was $230 total. I’ll never need to do the RDU again but obviously the PTU needs more frequent services than once every 70K...

I’ve been to 2 Ford dealers. The one I bought the Edge from happily changed the fluid along with a trans flush. Then I moved and the 2nd one had no clue about the PTU changes and said it was uneccesary cause it’s lifetime... so I went to Firestone ($100) and although they had never done one, they listened to my explanation from the forum and they did it. I’m going back now 30K later for another change this month. You’d think a service advisor would read some Ford vehicle forums just to keep up on what owners were finding. Their service centers try to upsell everything under the sun as it is anyway... All I can say is to try an independent shop if your dealer refuses like my local one did.

Got the dealer to do it, $230 total.

Regarding the 85-90% statement, I had already siphoned out multiple quarts so by draining from the pan bolt that made something like 15 qts having been drained and refilled. As far as the ramps, they were some industrial version (as opposed to the WalMart variety) from the auto mechanic across the street. It was all I could do do to lift and carry one of them at a time. Mixing fluid, well, guess I’m no purist. A 1/12 qt ratio doesn’t really bother me. It’s being redrained from the bolt within a month anyway. But I do appreciate all your concerns. I’m more concerned with the power steering pump whine I now get since I siphoned out and refilled 3x (after bleeding). The whine won’t go away. Maybe it takes after its owner, I dunno’.

Can someone give me the campaign info for the throttle body? I tried googling and didn’t see anything for 2014 (“certain 2015”). March 4, 2014 — The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has closed their investigation into throttle body problems in Ford vehicles after Ford agreed to fix about 1,600,000 cars and SUV's. Apparently Ford doesn't want to call it a recall, and NHTSA says it's not a recall. Instead, they are calling it a massive "customer satisfaction program" that extends the warranty of the electronic throttle body (ETB) for up to 10 years of service or 150,000 miles. NHTSA opened the investigation in February, 2013, after thousands of complaints about ETB failures in model year 2009-2013 Ford Escape, Fusion, Mercury Mariner and Mercury Milan vehicles. The affected vehicles are equipped with 2.5L and 3.0L engines that seem to stall and lose power. I have a 2014 (3.5). Don’t see that listed on the internet under a search for: 2014 edge throttle body campaign...

Hmm, I have 64ish K now on my 14’, guess i’d better get it done. About how many hours did it take?

Be nice if OP would respond with what it was, you never know if it would help someone else but...

Noise/whine came right back within a day even with Mercon LV. Guess it still has air trapped in it. Tried lock-to-lock turns about 25 times to burp it out but still there. Not too loud but can be heard. Oh well, at least the fluid is much cleaner.

Just change from beneath using the drain bolt, 7/16” up at the passenger side front of the trans pan. 5 .5 US qts. If in doubt just measure what came out and replace same amount. My 2014 uses Mercon LV, yours might be Mercon L. I borrowed steel ramps but they were too high, the pan actually tilted backwards so I had to “edge” it down backwards on the ramps till it was more level. Chock your tires! Update - forget the ramps, just park it level. Unless you are fatter than me (not likely) you can reach the unlabeled 7/16th (US) bolt. I painted it so I don't have to wonder next time which bolt. It drains 5.5 qts and I do it every 10K. Takes 30 minutes from opening the garage door to wiping my hands off. I'm not much of a wrencher so if it takes me only 30 min and some bulk Maxlife Synthetic Valvoline ATF (look for the gallon that says compatible with Mercon LV) then you can certainly do it that way as well. The longest time is draining the pan, that's about 15 minutes as it finally drips out.

Back again. Borrowed a set of ramps (actually were old style steel and really too high, probably 9-10’” of lift), the pan was tilted backwards so I backed the car down 1/2 way on the ramps, chocked the rear tires and that leveled it out. Then pulled the trans plug bolt. That’s a small bolt, fooled me (7/16” I think). I was expecting a lot larger, like 5/8 maybe. Then drained 5 qts, I only had 4 qts of Mercon LV but found 1 qt of Mercon L from a p steering fluid change so in it went. I should be about 85-90% changed now, this is easier once you have the ramps figured out. And it is still cheaper than the dealer. I will just make by own 2x8”or 2x10” wood ramps, a lot lower height though.

I can add to this (14' Ltd 3.5, non-tow package) as when I added the UHaul hitch and wiring, they didn't ask or care about the limits. I towed a 6x12 covered loaded with furnishings and it probably was close to 3K (the 6x12 trailers are heavy empty). I just made sure to stay at 60 or less, gear down when climbing hills, kept a good distance from other cars and watched the temps closely. Since you are in Fl, you don't have hills, but you do have heat. If you haven't already done so, flush your tranny fluid after a big tow (unless you are towing periodically, then just keep the fluid fairly new, at least annually). Several tranny fluid threads exist, you can pay a dealer (appx $250), or do it yourself via the drain plug (appx 3.5 qts in the pan so you'll need to do this at least 3x) or do what I did which was siphon out of the fill tube (same hassle, have to use a lot of Mercon LV as the old mixes with the new). I haven't looked much but there are ways to disconnect the outlet line from the cooling portion of the radiator which you can use to pump the fluid out, see YT videos, MacT has info too.

I was at my dealer looking for the A11 card (list price $150) last week and the parts guy said mid-March.

Ok thanks. I may buy a set of ramps one day. i changed out 2 more qts of ATF this pm, the fluid is now reddish-pink. Getting there... 6 more qts sometime next month and that will be it. Total cost will be less than 50% of the dealer’s price and that includes the pump. The other thing will be not “shocking” the trans with all new fluid (if you subscribe to the belief that fluid changes can upset the delicate solenoids).

I'd trade it sooner than later. If you don't get it flushed (coolant) then get rid of the problem. Normally a car doesn't cost you so much for deferred maintenance item(s) but since the Edge (AWD) has both issues (PTU and water pump) it's a potential fiasco if you don't keep it maintained.

If you were keeping it for a year I'd change it. Why risk a failure and the subsequent expense? If you were trading it this month then no. Just my 1.5 cents.

So where do you jack up the front from? What suspension component do you use with a floor jack to raise the front up?

Ok for the one person who’s reading this, the second full flush with another qt of Mercon LV has quieted the pump. Guess it didn't like the generic OReilleys ps fluid.

Well I started it today, the Harbor Freight pump is exactly the same as the one from the auto parts store so save yourself $10 and go to HF. The problem with their included hose is that it kinks easily. The second issue that I found is that if you tape up the hose to pump connections (so the hose doesn’t come out of the siphon pump itself), then the hose collapses on itself as it creates too much of a vacuum. (See update below) Last and biggest problem is that there is a restrictor in the Edge’s dipstick tube which only allows an 1/8 inch diameter tubing to go down into the transmission pan. The 3/8” tube that comes in the syphon will not go down the fill pipe. Fortunately there was a short length of 1/8” included in the siphon kit. I could only get 2 quarts out, and it was a slow process because the tube still tried to collapse upon itself and the 1/8 inch did not allow for a large volume transfer. Probably took me 20 minutes to get out that 2 qts. (See update about temp of fluid) With less than 50,000 miles on this transmission fluid, it was browner than I would have liked (No red, all brown). So I’m going to continue with a slow process of extracting 2 qts at a time. If you have a floor jack and the necessary ways of blocking your car up with, you likely will find it much quicker to drain out the 3 or 3 1/2 quarts by using the drain plug. Sadly, I do not have a floor jack or anything else, and frankly it’s not worth $150 or more in parts to buy a floorjack and jackstands. I don't wrench much. I’ll let you know how things continue. Oh, you will need a long neck filler funnel to get down to where the transmission fluid opening is, your standard funnels will not reach. I had to cut the bottom out of a 1 liter water bottle and invert it. Sigh. Amateur follies! ***Update, later same day. When the fluid is fully warmed up the hose doesn’t kink as much yet it still takes a good 10 minutes to siphon out 2 qts. I did that twice more so there's been 7 qts changed out now. I still have 2 more qts to do later this week, which will get me roughly 50% changed out, give or take. I'm going by the color of the fluid, as I have no idea how well the fluid has been diluted and thus has been replaced... So is using the siphon pump worth it? Not really, if you give your time any value. However, if you are like me and see no need to buy a floorjack and stands just to do this service then yes, it's ok. One advantage of the siphon is that if you don't want to deal with 3-3.5 qts flowing out onto the ground/floor and then pouring all that off, it is easier to just pump out a "measured amount" like 1-2 qts, then pour that fluid into the new/old 1 qt containers and recycle that. One last "plug" for only draining a portion as opposed to a complete flush for those who have put off changing their fluid to like 90-100K miles. There's so much controversy on the internet and on YouTube videos about whether or not you should do a complete flush. All I can tell you is that my local Firestone now will not do a complete fluid flush on higher mileage vehicles just because of the liability for the transmission... They refused to do mine, and I only had 63K.