14AWD3.5

Nice to hear that the water pump lasted. I have 164K miles on mine and it worries me. Ford wont just replace the pump, they say the timing chains and other associated components will be worn and need replaced as well. That jacks the costs up to $3400. Unsure what to do as all the shops just quote book time and pretty much parrot the same thing re the chain(s). I know on Hondas they recommend changing the water pump when you do the belt (100,000) but that's a belt, a lot cheaper than a chain system. What to do, sigh. Where's a deer in the road when you need one?

Kinda sounds like you did yourself a favor hitting the dealer. The parts cannon approach gets expensive, and now you don't have to deal with the internal water pump issue.

Following. I had a very low almost engine dieting idle condition only after fueling for about a month, then the P0420 code. I bought a code reader, saw the list of possible items (mainly oxygen sensor bank 1) and then watched a couple YT videos. Due to their suggestion I replaced the $25 purge valve part (on the firewall, took 5 minutes). Skill level 1.5 out of 10 which is about my maximum... ? That stopped the code and the low idle on fueling for about a month, now the low idle condition has returned...? so in February when the car goes in for the "minor" $3200 water pump and timing chain replacement I might have Ford look at it. Whats another $2-300?

I just started getting a 5-20 second lag between backing up and then shifting into drive while the rear camera stays on. Read about holding the radio power and ffd arrow buttons in for a few seconds. That helped but it still lags 3-5 seconds. This is just what I am getting, haven't checked wiring.

Rattlecan Auto Magic paint was really close n color. Then acan of 2x clear. Should have doubled the amount of clear as its very thin and buffed through in a couple spots. (Took it to a guy who does new-used car dealership repair work and he got it maybe 85% done, said it was too thin to do the top edge and “creases”). Good enough for 8 years and 140K.

Lucky youse’ guys have drainplugs… the 2014 and older dont. So it’s to a shop with a lift or a pit for me. I was visiting a relative near Denver and found a lube shop that actually knew where and what a PTU was. Guess the awd Edges are more common in Colorado. Anyway, they used my quart of Supertech 75-140 synthetic and only charged $45 labor, plus returning the unused portion of the fluid. So that makes 1 out of 3 Ford dealers that knew about it, 1 out of 2 Firestone’s and now this quick lube shop. Appx a 50% success rate. At least its done for another 30K.

I cant comment about the rdu temp issues other than to note that the sail effect/frontal drag is loading the entire drivetrain in excess of a similar weight low profile trailer, thus its harder overall on the edge. While I support towing what you can with what you have, the short wheelbase and large sail area are two things which would cause me to not want to tow that trailer much at all. Definitely change your PTU fluid, at least you have a drain plug! The rear diff on our edges is pretty small. I got mine changed at 80K just for preventative measures cause’ I’ve towed 5x8 and 6x12’ Uhaul trailers a fair bit while moving.

Hey, use what you got… Or, “dance with the one you brought”…

Thanks for the detailed R&R info, I will be trying my 2014 LF fender replacement in October. Funny that an OEM Ford fender was actually less expensive than aftermarket, and that was through my local Ford dealer's parts shop. I will reply as to the R&R and painting when I'm done. ok done. I replaced my left ft fender with a surprisingly inexpensive oem fender. Using a couple YT vids and the pdf type document above, I was able to remove the fender liner and fender then reuse the liner and replace the fender in about 3.5 hours. (I could do it again in half the time but oh well.). It lined up pretty well, not factory gaps but pretty close. Now the rattlecan auto paint quality was another story but if it always worked, paint shops would be out of business. Hopefully a good cut and buff will help.

Nah really? I've been using cars as trucks for decades. Props to people who can afford/justify a $50K pickup for the occasional nursery or lumberyard run. Whether it's 4 fat adults or 880 lbs of concrete block, the Edge doesn't know the difference.

Yay, even missing roads from a couple years ago now show up. Theres always highway construction however now I see some of the newer onramps showing up.

Yeah I know, it’s shocking for someone to actually work a vehicle. Mostly they are prissy grocery getters… As long as it cleans up well for outings, this blue-collar Edge seems to be ok.

One poster’s pet peeve is the spelling of “brakes”. Mine is people saying that you can/will be sued if you are over gvw/gvwr/gcvwr…. The point is, you can be sued for anything, what really matters is will your liability insurance company defend you and pay any judgements. Having been a casualty/bodily injury claims adjuster for 9 years for a major company I can tell you that they do pay judgements (with the only caveat being you are using the vehicle as a weapon). We paid for drunks, we paid for ridiculously un-maintained vehicles, as long as we could determine that it was owner “stupidity” vs willful actions, we paid. We joked that if there was a “stupidity exclusion” we’d likely not have ever paid anything but that’s not the way contracts were written. So in summary, you can be sued if you have a wreck just because the claimant looked at a highway billboard from a lawyer, it doesn’t matter if you were “overloaded” or not.

A local trip saw no problems with nav or settings, roads that weren’t on the A11 card are now on this A13. As long as it holds up it saved me $90 + tax. So far I’d recommend it to anyone who wants a recent update. Yes your phone is likely more up-to-date however I like the built in nav. Update: It’s been over a month now and the chip is working fine. Highly recommend.

My 14’ AWD Ltd has about a 909# payload (going from memory) and here’s a very recent 23 concrete 8x8x16 blocks pic. Rear end hardly sagged, the newer shocks might have helped that a bit though that’s not their main function. Blocks weigh between 35-39 lb so that’s about an 800 lb load. The poor car has had to haul way too much block, bagged stone, bark mulch and dirt, 8’ lumber (run up to windshield). Need a truck but never can seem to make it happen, plus used truck prices have been crazy high for 2 years now. A Uhaul added hitch has moved me a couple times now, tows a 6x12’ dual axle covered trailer just fine. Overall I have no complaints about its usefulness as a “poor man’s truck”.

Havent driven the car yet but the clone A13 did load, read, and showed my street (which is only a year old), so that’s what I wanted. For $59 as long as it holds it’s a good deal compared to Ford parts price. There is a paper with instructions that discuss what version of nav and settings you have and if you need to go to the dealer to get it updated. Mine were fine, based on the A11 chip I had gotten in summer 2020. There’s a possibility that when I bought the Edge used in 2016 it had been updated but not likely.

Thanks for the link, it shows the A13 as the latest at $149, which is what the A11 cost me in 2020 at a Ford dealer. Don’t know why my local dealer parts quoted $190 but it doesn’t matter. If this clone fails I will just wait another 2 years then update.

I’m keeping the A11 just in case. Hope that Amazon will refund the knockoff sd card if within the 30 days. It’s just a roll of the dice. I want to see if my 2 yr old neighborhood shows up on the new one, be nice to not be off in “nothing land”. Like I said, will report back. With only 9 reviews it’s an unknown. At least they weren’t 5 star “works grate” ESL spelling.

Old thread, but there’s a new A13 version out. $190 from Ford parts (ouch), I’m trying a non-oem knockoff ($58) just to see if the encryption is an issue as some have said before. Will report back, it’s coming this Thursday and I should know real quick like… yes I know most “too good to be true” is usually that but ya’ might win one.

Ive got a 14’ Ltd with Nav, has the A11 from 2 years ago, just ordered a non Ford A13 off Amazon, about $58 vs Ford parts wanting $190. Will advise how it seems to be working. The few comments (9) on the Amazon listing were positive, mostly MKZ, Edge and Fusion owners who tried it.

What was weird for me this week is other than "No Key Detected", I never got any indication of a battery failure/low voltage either before or during my week long issue with a bad battery. no check engine light, code, alternator charging idiot light, nothing. There was no way that I could find to see any voltage display on any screen in my Limited. Until the battery went dead, I had zero issues or warning. Not cool at 11:15 pm after a long shift at work. Only after I removed the dead battery and switched it out for an rv battery that I had did I get a motor symbol on the dash.

OK so my neighbor across the street is a mechanic and works for cash on Saturdays out of his garage. After getting a $1,400 estimate from Firestone for brakes and struts I asked him if he would like to do my Edge brakes (still stock with 105K, having no issues). Firestone had reported "deep scoring" in the rear rotors and all 4 needed R&R to include pads. I've never felt any shuddering or heard any squealing so I wondered about that diagnosis. So he gets my wheel lock key (McGard) and takes off the wheels. He finds the fronts about 50% left on the pads and the rotors are fine. The rears have a slight scoring and pads are about 50%, but he said it really didn't need to be replaced at the present. Since he had the rear rotors and pads already (at half the O'Reilleys retail cost to me), I had him put on the rear rotors and pads, leaving the fronts alone for now. Total bill for rear brakes was $170. Firestone wanted $440... He reinstalls the wheels and I drive it around to check braking, can't tell much difference (it was fine before anyway). Next day I am looking for the wheel lock and can't find it. Thinking he still has it I ask. "Nope, I think I left it on the rim". Uh oh, it's gone. Probably fell off and I never heard it. So a week later he's located 4 junkyard lugnuts and proceeds to use a socket to over-ride the wheel lock, like several YouTube vids said can be done. Now all is well. I go to check tire pressure of the spare a week later and tucked down by the space saver spare is the original McGard plastic envelope with the code #'s and the 4 original lugnuts. Sheesh!

Edit update. Car now has 105K and I have used the (Walmart sells it) Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic Mercon LV equivalent (gallon gray jug) for the last 3 tranny pan changes. The transmission shifts are smooth and everything is quiet so I guess it likes it enough. At $17 + tax for a gallon, that's way cheaper than the auto parts stores by the quart Mercon LV (which costs around $8 a qt). I'm using Supertech DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid for the (turkey baster) siphoning of the brake fluid reservoir about every 3 months. I don't bleed the brakes due to being just me here but I figure it recirculates as it's always a light brown coming out as opposed to clear going in. That's only like $3 a bottle (pint?) and it makes 3 siphon and fills.

I changed PTU fluid (5th time in 105K) last week and the whine is gone. Could have been low from the previous Firestone change, don't know but the whine is gone. Nothing else was disturbed so I'm thinking that was it, a low amount of gear oil. Strange since there was no evidence of a leak. Now I'm unsure if Firestone filled it. I drove on their service fill for 30K without incident so perhaps it was simply low?.

Maybe time to change your RDU now too. I did mine early (around 60K) and it was fairly dirty looking. I think that's it for the RDU changes now.