RJSargent64

I will look into those Jacking Rails. I had a 2014 Fusion prior to this Edge and it had the same jacking setup as this edge so the company probably does have a set that would fit. Salt is the bane of our existence here in northern Vermont. The road crews start putting it down with the first snow fall, usually in November and don't stop until about the first of April. I'm about 15 miles to the nearest car wash so always figured the car would be coated with salt by the time I get home. Should've done it regardless. Oh, I also had a 2005 F150, by 2015 I had had the frame welded three times due to rust through.

I have a 2017 Ford Edge with a little over 80,000 miles on it and I live in northern New England where calcium chloride is commonly used on the winter roads. That aside this spring I was changing switching over to my summer tires. I use a hydraulic floor jack which has about a 2" diameter disk with notches to prevent slipping. As I was jacking up the passenger rear wheel side (jack between the arrows) all of a sudden the car dropped the half to three fourths of an inch. I thought the jack had gone up through the rocker panel but fortunately it did not. Instead the lip of the seem just bent over. I was able to continue jacking and finishing the task at hand. Okay, now to my concerns/questions. a) how solid is the rocker panel at these jacking points? b) should I continue using the rocker panel point? c) does anyone know of or recommend alternative jacking points that would be safe? I have read through several earlier posts/strings about jacking. Some recommend using a something similar to a hockey puck or a grooved piece of wood or a commercial version. At this point the damage is done although it may be worth while using such devices might save the other three jacking points. Would be happy to hear what folks have to say and any helpful thoughts will be much appreciated. I tried to upload a picture two pictures but then realized the two combined were too large. I deleted the first picture thinking the second one was more important but now the system won't let me upload any. I will either try to do an edit after posting OR do a reply to myself so anyone interested can see the seam folded over.

Thank you enigma-2. That did the trick. Hard to believe it was that simple. Now I just wish I had a simple fix for the rust that has shown up in this last year, a car only six years old. That's what I get for living in the northeast with chloride on the roads four to five months of the year. Thanks again.

I discovered over the last couple of days that my navigation system says I have no GPS, I can not call out or answer calls verbally on my phone. Also the "Audio button" on bottom left of screen does not respond. There may be other symptoms I have yet to discover but that is enough for the moment. I checked/tested fuse # 32 (10 amp) in the passenger compartment fuse panel under the dash and that appears to be okay. I have done a master reset to no avail. This all started when last week the electric cooler fan would not shut off when I shut the car off. I got caught downtown with a dead battery and a good Samaritan gave me jump start with one of those new little jump start batteries.. Since it was late at night when I got home and the fan wanted to keep running I disconnected the battery over night and charged it up. I swapped out Relay #39 in the engine compartment fuse box and that solved that problem. NOW I have the problem described in the first paragraph. Can one or more folks give me some ideas as what to check next? I was sure it was the fuse # 32 (10 amp) but it looked both good and tested good. Any help will be much appreciated.

Thank you very much. Here it is seven years later and your post is still helping people out. Maybe now I can actually see what I am doing if I can even get my hand up into that area from the bottom. At my age of 76 I probably should hire a young fella to squirm his way into some weird position that I haven't been in in a good many years. Thanks again.