flyerjmr33

At that slow gap growth, they would have gone 100,000 with ease-- what they are designed to go! The only benefit of doing the change early is that it keeps you busy and helps your spark plug supplier profit.Measured gap at 100K probably would have been around .063 and with today's ignition systems, it's no big deal! The instructions and photos were excellent!

Back in the 40's and 50's, I took pride in being able to ID every make & model of car--- somewhere in the late 60's I gave it up--- took up too much of my energy ---

With all the flap about fuel mileage, why do some folks believe they are smarter then the factory engineers? Don't they think that the manufacturer of the vehicle would love to get a few more tenths of a MPG to beat the competition?

The only one I missed was the 52/54 Mercury--- got them crossed-- that put me at 96%

You think you're old? Try this and see how old you really are! 50's Car Test Alright you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be honest with yourself….no cheating. The average score is 73% This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain. http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/

Push the button on the dash that says in/outside temp---

We had a similar discussion last March and a member did pull a wheel to check and found them!

What they might be hearing, depending on mileage on the vehicle, is the brake pad warning squeal--- caused by pads that have worn down to the "replace" limit--- If the noise goes away when applying the brakes, the wear indicators are the problem. May be time to replace pads!

The proper proceedure for adjusting side mirrors is--- http://scripts.mit.edu/~birge/blog/how-to-correctly-set-your-cars-sideview-mirrors/

You can balance a hat box, but you can't make it roll unless it's perfectly round---- you possibly have a tire that is out of round. 4/64ths used to be the limit---

Warped rotors are usually caused by improper torque on the lug nuts. Most likely, whoever rotated the tires is where your problem started. You may be able to cure most of the vibration by torquing the lug nuts properly to 100 ft/lbs.

The tire will never wear past the problem --- The only way to go back to normal wear is to shave the tires with a buffer and correct the wear pattern---

Alignment will not cure the wear pattern. Once the wear pattern is established, alignment will stop it from getting worse, but not reverse it.

How about 3 years, 41000 miles and no problems---

Their advice to "seek representation" is spot on--- get an attorney to do the work -- he'll probably do it at no cost to you if the accident was the fault of the other driver. You could have had USAA suggest a shop for the repair. They have nothing but good facilities that have to report back to them.

The only thing that prevents the outer pads from contacting the rotors is that the caliper is sticking in place. Looks like you need a second set of eyes so you can have someone apply the brakes while you watch the action of the caliper --- or, lightly spray some black paint on the rotor and take the thing for a drive and see if it wears the paint off.

Sorry-- I had my head on backwards--- The inner surface of the rotor is where the piston is and should be the primary contact. If you have no contact on the outer surface, the caliper is sticking and not sliding on the pins. Compress the piston and with the caliper in place, make sure it will slide freely. If there is any drag, lubricate it where it is dragging. The inner side will have contact unless the pistons are frozen in place. If the pistons are stuck, you'll have no brakes on that side and the vehicle will have a severe pull to the side that is working. The usual problem is a worn pad on the inner side from the caliper being stuck.

Push the A/C Button--

The outer surface of the rotor is contacted by the pad behind the piston--- it will be the primary contact when the brakes are applied. The inner side of the rotor not making contact is caused by the caliper sticking on the slide at the edges, Lubricate the caliper where it is contacting the stationary part of the assembly.

At 90K, what you probable have is some valve seals that have hardened and are leaking oil down the guides. Now, let's get real, --- a quart of oil in 7500 miles is NOT what is considered "using oil"--- Ford says that a quart in 500 miles is using oil---

Perhaps the rings never got seated-- my Edge used a little oil also when I got it at 16,000 miles. I proceeded to seat the rings by doing several full throttle accelerations up to 60-mph. That seated the rings and oli consumption went to almost zero. Babying a new engine will almost always result in some oil consumption because the rings don't get seated. It's been many years since I've seen an engine that had a piston ring problem. Most oil loss happens through the valve guides when the oil seals leak or get hardened. The other place oil seeps into the combustion chamber is from intake manifold leaks. In this case, there is no indication as to how many miles are on the vehicle so it could be a simple case of needing some hard driving, and, perhaps some explanation as to how there is one quart less than what he puts in when he does a change---- or, are we back to the same discussion about the dipstick showing 1/2 qt less than full when 5.5 quarts is put in----

OK--- I'll bet there are folks who would really take that as it being OK to fill it till it overflows from the dipstick tube! :wacko:

Too much will absolutely do that, but having it show as full on the dipstick is all we are discussing--- and that's only 1/2 qt above the book recommendation.

Lots of times, the manual is written prior to the vehicle being in production. Some minor changes never get into the manual till the second or third printing. Half a quart of oil one way or the other is not going to hurt anything, and as I previously stated, I like to see the dipstick show full, so I use 6 quarts. The extra oil helps to cool the engine.

Located where????