flyerjmr33

The only reason for the increase in mileage is because you were experiencing misfire from the old plugs---

I have an '08 and the rattle was driving me nutz for a while-- finally isolated it to the rear door latch. A quick spray with white lithium grease resolved the problem for 6 months--- when the noise started again, I sprayed it again--- I'll bet that most of the rattles are that problem.

2008 Ltd. FWD Just turned 52000 miles and inspected the front brake pads--- still have close to 1/2 left on them--- How many miles have you driven on yours? The 20" Pirelli tires look like another 10,000 miles is left--- I do rotate every 6000---

Check this out--- and dream on! http://www.snopes.com/autos/techno/acetone.asp

Many years ago, the spark plug manufacturers said that when they get a decent ignition system, spark plugs will last a very long time. That was back when they had to be changed every 10,000 miles.

35 PSI

Call me or e-mail me your phone number and I'll call you--- flyerjmr33@aol.com JR

I can't believe how anal folks get about oil--- I'll bet there's no one here who can document an engine wearing out because of one brand or the other. Most of the engines in today's automobiles will outlast the rest of the car if you simply follow owner manual recommendations. In example, my '91 Explorer developed problems everywhere but the engine. At 135,000 miles, the vehicle was pretty much used up but the engine was still in perfect condition. I used to call it my EXPLODER---- Oil used in the engine was rarely ever the same brand twice--- But, y'all keep arguing--- it makes for interesting and humorous readings!

Tire rack doesn't have the size in 20"--- However, they'd have to go some to improve my experience with the OE Pirellis---

https://www.logical-source.com/2007-FORD-EDGE-8770.html At less than 5 bucks a filter, it doesn't pay to mess with anything but a nice new replacement!

: Taking the 5th in this case is a sure road to conviction! :peelout:

You must be driving them race car fashion---

Mine are at 46,000 and still have tread left. I'll replace them with exactly the same. I was skeptical at first, but am very happy and well impressed with their performance!

http://www.treadepot.com/tirelist.html?pluslist=&warranty=&brandlist=&quickfind=2455020&speed=T&load=102&ply=&dsptiresize=P245/50R20 Try here--

Ford fixed that problem when they came out with the originasl Taurus/Sable---- they had equal length drive shafts--- then as they "improved" things, they un-fixed the problem.

You'll only get a gain if the old plugs were misfiring.

Did they show you a broken chain??? More than likely, what broke was that nylon drive gear on the camshaft--- But, I'll bet it happened when you shut it down and tried to start it again.

I spent 35 years in the automotive business and never once saw a BROKEN timing chain--- I've seen many that have stretched and skipped a couple of teeth where the engine would not run--- but NEVER a broken one---

It doesn't use a timing belt, so it makes no difference-- the Edge uses a timing chain.

Changing spark plugs and making the gap smaller, sometimes will cause a decrease in gas mileage--- the wide gap actually ignites the mixture better. Ford says that the ignition system will run the plugs 100,000 miles. That probably is a conservative figure and I'll bet that closer to 125,000 before any misfire would be a closer estimate--- Years ago when I was in the diagnostic equipment business, we (as a manufacturer) had a good relationship with the spark plug manufacturers and they all agreed that when a decent ignition system is available, spark plugs would be a seldom used item in aftermarket parts. There was a time when 10.000 miles was the recommended change point-- then it went to 12,000, then 25,000 and now it's at 100,000 miles. As long as there is no misfire, there is no reason to change plugs till you get to 100K----or whatever is recommended by the manufacturer of the vehicle!

All fixed--- noise was from 2 different places-- one was the door panel rubbing on the door handle mount-- that was fixed by removing just enough of the plasitc in the door panel with a sharp knife. The rest of the noise was a little more elusive and after chasing it down, I isolated it to the door latch. Spraying the latch with some silicone did the trick. So, I went ahead and did ALL THE DOORS AND HINGES-- including the lift gate. Ford builds damn quiet cars(if you lube the parts that move---)

I found the source--- it's the door panel rubbing on the door handle mount-- push on the door panel just above the door handle and see if that's not the same noise you hear-- tomorrow, I will pull the panel and tighten it up where it slips over the sheet metal in the door. Stop it from moving and the problem will stop--- or maybe lubricate the rubbing area-- I'll let you know---

How about we do a swap--- mine does it from the driver's side and I'm willing to trade you my noisy pillar for your quiet one! Maybe I'll rip it all apart today and see what the hell is in there-- I've been threatening to do that for a while now.

So, so far, it has cost a few bucks to keep you busy--- it must be boring as hell to some when there's nothing but a decent running vehicle to deal with, huh?

I don't know why it's such a problem to tell the difference--there are battery testers that will test a discharged battery and give a result of capacity that is 99% accurate. Autozone usually has one available as do SAM's club auto departments and SEARS--- the test tales a cople of minutes and will isolate the problem--- When a battery falls below 80% of its rated capacity, it is time for a replacement--but only if you don't want to wake up to a surprise---