flyerjmr33

If this is only happening when parked on an incline, it indicates that either the drains built into the cylinder head that allow oil to return to the crankcase are stopped up or that they are designed in the wrong place. It definitely is a valve guide seal problem, and on the exhaust valves.

Probably crap--- My '08 works just fine here in Houston--- set it on 73 degrees and the auto does the job--- even after sitting out in the sun for a few hours. We've had a recent month of close to 100 degree days with humidity above 50%--- if that a/c was weak, I'd be camped out at the Ford Dealer----

Get the readout from the local shop. I can tell you from that if you will have any issues with alignment. If not, tires are the culprit. Tire pressure is a factor , but a tire that is worn from a previous problem could be the trouble also. Once a tire wears a certain way, you cannot ever make it normal again without shaving the rubber. Get the readouts ----

Looks like we have finally come to terms with each other! :happy feet:

I certainly happy that you at least have one favorite aftermarket product---- KYB has a lifetime warranty also, and they recommend replacement after 50,000 miles. You can get all that information from their web site.

http://www.a-1shocks.com/warranty/index.cfm I guess Monroe is also building el-cheapos as you state, huh--- At 28,000 miles on my Edge, today I crossed a really lumpy railroad track that I thought was going to provide me with some flight time--- I was wrong, my shocks kept the wheels on the ground! According to you, I should have been airborne----

Did you put OE shocks back on the vehicles? If so, they should have been covered under the 3-36 warranty--- and if Fords need that kind of TLC, everyone should buy something other than a Ford. 22,000 miles of use on a shock should just get it broken in---- There are shocks available with lifetime warranties, you know http://www.allshocks.com/bilstein/html/why_bilstein.html

Years ago, shocks would wear out at about 40,000 miles. Today's shocks & struts will go to about 80,000 under average driving conditions without any problem. Of course, if you don't carry enough of a load in the back(tongue in ckeek), you could have "early shockitis" and failure from lack of exercise! "

There's a definite difference between bullying and facts---

He's been told the same thing about 4 times now---

I definitely do have time to waste, but not on folks who can't or won't take advice from professionals-- It's tough to confuse you with facts when your mind is made up. It's your vehicle and suggest that you do as you please with it-- you are under no obligation here other than to say thanks to those who give you decent advice.

Did they give you a print out of the readings?--- If not, can you get one?

Trouble is that most auto manufacturers will not allow rotor turning under warranty because it's probably cheaper for them to be replaced than to pay the labor to turn.

Get on a completely level road with no crown Normal, is when you accelerate, torque steer will make the vehicle pull to the right, when off the gas and coasting, it will either go straight or slightly pull to the left. If you have alredy rotated the tires, they are not the problem. Did they do a full 4 wheel alignment or simply check the front? Rear alignment is very critical on any vehicle with independant rear suspension. What were the alignment readings? I can tell more from them than just hipshooting like I'm doing now. Have them print out the alignment readings----

The owner's manual is a wealth of proper information and specs---

Why are you asking what's wrong? Seems to me like you have already made your diagnosis. You asked for help and when you don't take the recommendations of folks who are experienced professionals in the business, you are wasting time & effort on their part. ONE MORE TIME______ You need an alignment expert (not a tire shop) to check this vehicle over. What part of that don't you understand?

A combination of things could cause the cupping--- Balance would be my first pick. Weak shocks number 2 if we were looking at something mechanical. Rear toe would also have to be considered. No amount of repair will eliminate the tire cupping once it is there. It is aggrivated by not rotating the tires at a 5-7000 mile interval. I spent 28 years working for an alignment equipment manfacturer and what you need is an alignment specialist--- not a tire store that employs folks at minimum wage. I'm very surprised that neither the Goodyear store or NTB tried to get you on the alignment machine. That alone indicates to me that they are lacking knowledge and are more "tire busters" than anything else. I recommend that you replace those cupped tires and have all the things I mentioned checked. Then get on a rotation schedule or you'll have the same problem all over again. The chassis on these newer vehicles with independant suspension is a lot more sensitive to slight errors in adjustment specs than your vehicles of years past.

That's why those neck coolers that are soaked in water work so well--- Keep the blood cool in the neck and you will feel cooler all over. :yup:

Somewhere along the way, I lost it--- how does restricted coolant flow in a heater core affect air flow on the outside of the core?--- And just through the driver's center vent????

You'll have to come up with a different number--- the one you state is for the cooling system/ radiator problem-- according to my Ford dealer------

Sounds like they not only didn't change the filter, but they didn't change the oil either. Only two changes in 17K is bad enough when the stuff is changed--- but when it's not changed, it's reaally bad news to your engine. So, at this point, you could just live with the rough idle or attempt to clean the sludge up using an engine oil flush with a strong detergent. There's nothing to lose by trying a flush!

Today it was 94 degrees here in Houston and my '08 edge sat in the sun for over and hour. The A/C system had no trouble cooling off the vehicle's interior and it vwas all done in the "Automatic" setting--- I don't know what the problem is with your system, but mine works OK--- What changes were done to the '09 that makes it work better?

That's pretty amazing in view of the fact that the computer sensors that measure airflow are behind the air filter in the system. They are between the air filter and the throttle body and adjust the mixture for whatever airflow is available! If the engine had a standard carburetor, then I'd believe your numbers!

I've owned a few cars myself---- '36 Ford Convertible '36 Ford Tudor Sedan '41 Ford Business Coup '48 Chevy Fleetline '56 Pontiac (bad from the getgo) '62 Ford Station Wagon '63 Chevy Wagon '64 Chevy Wagon '65 Buick Skylark Gran Sport '65 Plymouth Wagon '67 Plymouth Wagon '68 Plymouth Wagon '70 Chevy Wagon '73 Chevy Wagon '75 Chevy Suburban '77 Chevy Wagon '80 Chevy Caprice '83 Ford Van '85 Ford Van '87 Mercury Sable '88 Ford Van ''91 Ford Explorer '95 Ford Crown Vic '98 Ford Windstar '00 Ford Windstar '03 Hyundai Sante Fe '04 Toyota Sienna '08 Ford Edge Does that qualify me as a domestic car buyer? The Hyundai is my wife's car--- And it's as good as anything I have ever owned! The Sienna was mine, but was as uncomfortable as could be--- The Edge is just right so far!

None I know of other than disassembly and actually seeing what is causing the smell.