flyerjmr33

If you are experiencing a mold problem and the Lysol clears up the smell, the mold will return again next Summer when you start using your air conditioner. To prevent the reoccurence of the mold, do not leave the A/C on the recirculate air position(inside air). After you get the vehicle cool on recirculate, switch the A/C to outside air. That will prevent the mold from forming. Do the same with your heat--- use outside air after warming the vehicle.

Move to a warmer climate ---- :shades:

Mine worked in IE--- wouldn't work in AOL or Google Chrome! Much thanks for the link-- my "08 was bought as an "Executive Lease" a year & a half ago and I always wondered about the sticker---

Seems like it was fuse # 34 that is controlled by the ignition switch. Ford really made it tough to attach accessories on the Edge--- Anyway, check #34 If that doesn't work, do some research in the forum-- there was a thread about that over a year ago---

I'm not even considering runflats--- just going naked without a spare relying on the air pump and sealant. I haven't had a blowout in many years. Just an occasional flat caused by a slow leak from a nail, and that has always been in my garage. I simply have pumped the tire up and driven to the tire store for the fix.

Black & Decker makes an electric battery powered blower that I bought from Home Depot for $49--- Came with 2 batteries and charger--- works great for all the blow jobs around the house! :shades:

Most all of the new luxury vehicles ar coming without a spare tire now. Thay are replacing the spare with the latest version of "run flat" tires or with a 12 volt air pump and a can of "flat fixer"--- On the Edge, not having a spare would give you enough storage space for lots of junk that there is now no room to carry! I own a 12 volt air pump and have some "flat fixer" and have now removed my spare, the jack and the lug wrench--- I haven't had need for a spare tire in many years and really don't see the need to carry one around anymore. :shades:

If you return to NTB, you have all the right questions to ask now. An independant alignment shop or the dealer will give you better ammunition to get something done at discount tire--- Your call here-- Sometimes it costs you extra when you attempt to do things like an alignment by shopping price.

After having been checked at NTB, for peace of mind if it were my vehicle, I'd take it to a REAL alignment shop. It's true that the caster readings are most likely wrong on the print-out, but it would be nice to know exactly what they are before attacking the tire problem. Of course, as the Discount Tire ad shows, he can always toss the defective tire through the Discount Tire Store window! :hyper:

Surprisingly, even MOOG doesn't make a caster adjusting kit. They do, however, make a camber adjusting kit!

NTB thinks that a proper alignment is setting the toe only. The location of your bad tire could determine which direction the vehicle will pull. Why not take it to a decent alignment shop and find out whether or not you really do have a problem. It's possible that NTB never really measured the caster properly. They, for sure never test drove the car after the "alignment"--- No decent mechanic would ever return a vehicle to a customer without advising them of the problem or repairing the problem.

Preserve the new rotors by properly torquing the lug nuts! :happy feet:

Rotors are warped from improper torquing of the lug nuts--- Invest in a torque wrench and use it properly and you'll have no more warped rotors!

You seem to have a strange vehicle--- it should pull to the right on a hard acceleration and drift slightly left when deceleraring. Now, back to the tires. If a tire is causing a pull, I would have that tire replaced because of a manufacturing defect. I would also have a decent alignment shop check the actual readings. What was done at NTB is wrong and they should have test driven the car and notified you af any necessary adjustments. There may be no adjustment other than a special kit that takes a real front end mechanic to install. Glad to be of whatever help I have done-- keep us posted as to your progress if you persue the problem further!

They obviously did nothing to correct the problem. The caster angle on the left side is 4.5 degrees out on the positive side. The right side is out 2.4 degrees to the positive side. The difference is causing the right pull. The caster angle causes a pull to the negative side. The right side is 2.1 degrees more negative than the left. Their idea of an alignment is to only check the toe-in--- the only thing that is highlighted! I question if they even measured the caster ----- and they sure as hell didn't test drive the vehicle! You need to get that vehicle to a shop that specializes in alignment or to a dealer who has a decent alignment mechanic. You probably do have a bad tire which is causing the change of sides of the pull when the wheels are switched, but after that is fixed, you will still have a right pull unless that caster problem is corrected. NTB is notorious for having techs who say they know it all, but in actuality know very little.

It's a normal thing for it to pull to the right when accelerating and the left when decelerating. That's what is called "torque steer" . When on a level road at normal cruise speed with no wind, the vehicle should track straight when you let the steering wheel go. Any pull is caused either by alignment or tires. If NTB did the alignment, they should have provided yopu with a print out of both the before and after readings. Get that an either e-mail it to me or post it and I'll tell you if the vehicle has a tire or alignment problem. NTB is not my choice of an alignment shop--- they should have test driven the car and found the pull---

It's hard to believe that a warped rotor would be felt without a slight brake application--- especially at 75 MPH--- that speed is where a dynamic balance problem shows up or where a tire with the beginning of ply separation will be evident. However, if you really think that rotors are the problem, more than likely the warp was caused by whoever rotated the tires and didnt properly torque the lug nuts. Just because they used a torque wrench doesn't mean that it was used properly. I've watched them use it and they usually just make sure that the nuts are torqued to at least the spec. They never start from a slightly tightened nut as they should, and slowly apply the torque till the wrench clicks. They just jerk the handle and if it clicks, that's it. The nut at that point could be way over torqued or could be OK-- it just isn't under torqued. Anyway, have the lug nuts properly torqued and your rotors will not warp. If they are warped then have the nuts properly torqued and sometimes the warp will go away. If that doesn't get rid of the vibration, then balance or a tire out of round is your problem.

It's in the manual, but from memory, First clear the memory by holding buttons 1 & 3 down till the red LED changes its flash. Then hold down button #1 while you hold the door remote close to the visor. The LED will change flashes when the code is received. If you have a door opener with a rolling code, you will have to press the "learn" button on the door opener and then you have 30 seconds to press the #1 button on the visor. You must do the last button press at least twice. The door opener should be programmed now. In the book, the device is called "Home Link" --look in the back where the index is and you'll probably find the reference--- I hope I have done all the steps--- if not, someone here will probably correct me--- :happy feet:

They exist-- I have a 2008 without nav or a hole in the roof! :happy feet:

Part of the problem is that there are few good diagnostic technicians at the dealerships. Most are parts changers and never have to really fix or overhaul anything. Nothing has changed other than the flat rate price for repairs going up to over $100/hr.

Sounds like this should be reported the NHTSA http://www.nhtsa.gov/ This is a definite safety problem and falls into the same category as some of Toyota's problems.

Shutting down the rear vents when no one is in the back seat will increase the front vent airflow also----- A little duct tape works wonders!

All with climate control systems have a filter

If this is only happening when parked on an incline, it indicates that either the drains built into the cylinder head that allow oil to return to the crankcase are stopped up or that they are designed in the wrong place. It definitely is a valve guide seal problem, and on the exhaust valves.

Probably crap--- My '08 works just fine here in Houston--- set it on 73 degrees and the auto does the job--- even after sitting out in the sun for a few hours. We've had a recent month of close to 100 degree days with humidity above 50%--- if that a/c was weak, I'd be camped out at the Ford Dealer----