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OK to apply wax over AutoArmor?


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Guys,

 

This may sound dumb, but is it ok to apply wax over the AutoArmor on my 6 month old 2013 Edge? The AutoArmor surfaces seemed really slick when I first picked up the car but after a few weeks they started feeling like the "before" surface on the showroom half-hood demo so I doubt it's really doing much in the way of paint protection. Having paid for AutoArmor on a previous car and being skeptical after the experience, I wouldn't have ordered it on the Edge. But the day I went in to finalize the deal after 2 rounds of price-negotiations, 3-4 weeks of driving the salesman crazy, and 3 different test drives, the dealer "threw it in" to get me to sign (which I was already planning to do anyway). My main interested in AutoArmor when he offered it was the 7-year interior stain, rip, & tear protection. Paint ptotection, not so much....

 

So..... I'm assuming it's ok to wax over the AutoArmor but just wanted to check to make sure I don't have to use any special kind of wax or do any special prep steps oher than a really good cleaning. I have a full bottle of the AutoArmor Paint Protection Cleaner/Renew -- is that worth using? Looks like it contains water, mineral spirits, petroleum distillates, and Stoddard solvent. Supposedly it's safe for Clear Coat.

 

If it's ok to wax, can someone recommend a high quality wax to use?

 

Many thanks in advance!

 

Bob

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Hey Bob,

Congrats on the Edge, and I too, do not go for the 'paint protection' packages dealers offer. There are a lot of good quality waxes out on the market. I have used Meguires products for years, then this past November, tried Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, as others in this forum have used. Well, guess what - washed the cars the other day, and they still "bead up" nicely.

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Wow, you guys definitely have me sold on Collinite 845! Thanks very much for your advice. I'm not really very savvy when it comes to proper detailing. I see that it's not a cleaning wax, so do I need to do any special cleaning other than a really good wash prior to applying the Collinite? I've seen a few references to using a clay bar treatment first, or even applying other waxes or products as a base. I'm willing to put in the effort, just want to do it right. Thanks again, this Collinite looks like great stuff!

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At 6 months old, I don't know if you really would need to clay bar your Edge, maybe just a wax with a cleaner(Meguires). or just a cleaner would be okay, depends how "dirty" your paint is. I've helped friends do their cars, and the Meguires wax with a cleaner cleaned them up nicely. Years ago, Meguires had a liquid cleaner out that really did a nice job, but I haven't seen it out for quite some time. You will definatelyget excited with the Collinite, GREAT stuff, it is.

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Edgieguy" data-cid="94286" data-time="1364230451"><p>

Im a noob when it comes to detailing, but id say do it right. I stripped my Edge, polished and then waxed. <br />

<br />

<a href='http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11359-getting-the-sport-ready-for-winter/'>http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11359-getting-the-sport-ready-for-winter/</a></p></blockquote>

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Edgieguy and Richy, you guys are scaring me.... This sounds like a pretty involved process but the results are certainly fantastic after seeing Edgieguy's pics of the water beading up, and Richy your website shows some pretty amazing results. This is all new to me so I hope you don't mind a few more dumb questions. First, I see that Edgieguy mixed the 501/601 products in a 4:1 ratio. I saw a few places online that referenced a different procedure, where you put on the 601 bonding agent on first, let it dry to a haze, don't wipe it, and then apply the 501 cleaning polish (or 105) over that and then buff. Is "combo" procedure you guys use an improvement over what I saw on the other websites? Sure seems a little easier, and I figure maybe the bond is better when the two products are mixed directly?

 

The second question is that Edgieguy says he then applied a 105/601 combo. Would this be in the same 4:1 ratio that was used with the 501/601 combo?

 

Also, with the Iron-X, how bad would it be if I accidentally got some of that on my chrome grille, belt trim, or badges? I can mask those off as best I can but there's still a risk of some getting on the chrome surfaces. I have those chrome plastic-clad 18" wheels -- I assume I need to be very careful about not getting any on those, right?

 

Finally, Edgieguy used a machine buffer but I'd be afraid of buffing all the way down to the driveway as soon as I hit the on button. Kind of scares me to use a machine on a 6 month old 2013 Edge with no real experience. So can I get the same results by applying and buffing by hand, and how much tougher of a job would that be?

 

Thanks!

Edited by edge1217
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I will defer to Richy & Edgieguy on the product/application specifics. But my thought is that if you clean the vehicle really well (get the dirt and grime off), then wax it (no polishing), that would get you started on a good footing.

 

Ideally, sure, you would throw in claying and polishing steps in between to achieve those diamond like sparkling results :) If you are interested in going whole hog, might be better off using a "test subject" (an old car, usually, or a painted panel) to get the hang of the process before using it on your "live" vehicle.

 

Or, look up well-reviewed detailers in your area to put your mind at ease. Maybe someone on here knows people in CT who you could go to or have come to you?

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Edgieguy and Richy, you guys are scaring me.... This sounds like a pretty involved process but the results are certainly fantastic after seeing Edgieguy's pics of the water beading up, and Richy your website shows some pretty amazing results. This is all new to me so I hope you don't mind a few more dumb questions. First, I see that Edgieguy mixed the 501/601 products in a 4:1 ratio. I saw a few places online that referenced a different procedure, where you put on the 601 bonding agent on first, let it dry to a haze, don't wipe it, and then apply the 501 cleaning polish (or 105) over that and then buff. Is "combo" procedure you guys use an improvement over what I saw on the other websites? Sure seems a little easier, and I figure maybe the bond is better when the two products are mixed directly?

 

The second question is that Edgieguy says he then applied a 105/601 combo. Would this be in the same 4:1 ratio that was used with the 501/601 combo?

 

Also, with the Iron-X, how bad would it be if I accidentally got some of that on my chrome grille, belt trim, or badges? I can mask those off as best I can but there's still a risk of some getting on the chrome surfaces. I have those chrome plastic-clad 18" wheels -- I assume I need to be very careful about not getting any on those, right?

 

Finally, Edgieguy used a machine buffer but I'd be afraid of buffing all the way down to the driveway as soon as I hit the on button. Kind of scares me to use a machine on a 6 month old 2013 Edge with no real experience. So can I get the same results by applying and buffing by hand, and how much tougher of a job would that be?

 

Thanks!

Sorry for the late response. The 4:1 mix of DG 501(or 105 or 111) to DG 601 concept was introduced by me to the detailing community a few years ago working in concert with Dr. Jerry Bailey at Duragloss. The mixing of the two is strictly a time-saving measure. I was doing Funeral hearses at the time and it was a great benefit to me due to the square footage of those beasts. As far as doing it, I suggest going to a dollar store and buying yourself a cheap plastic squeeze bottle (like a Ketchup bottle) and try to mix up just what you think you'll need. The mixture will thicken up after a few days and eventually will gel into an unusable solution. You will love what it does.

 

IronX rocks. Period. Safe on everything. Don't worry about it getting on other external surfaces. Don't use it in direct strong sunlight (like 100 degree weather) and you'll be OK. You just don't want it drying on a surface. Spray down with water or with a power washer after letting it dwell. Follow that step with a clay bar for the win.

 

As far as using a Random Orbital machine (a DA), is it necessary? No. Beneficial. Yes. You will pull shit out of your 6 month old paint using DG 501 and a white LCC or Buff and Shine pad (Autoality.com) that will disgust you. There are plenty of videos about how to safely use a DA on YT. With that pad and product, you are guaranteed safe. It would be a good investment for you. Look into getting a used one too...Craig's List or whatever might save you some $ on one so even if you don't use it for a while, you won't regret buying it. Having said that, it IS easy to use and you will be glad you bought one. You are always welcome to join the detailing forum Live2Detail on which I am on the B of D. You will always get answers to your questions there.

Edited by richy
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Thanks to everyone for your very helpful replies. OK, I think I'm going to take the plunge and do it the right way. Edgieguy's detailed writeup was incredibly helpful, and Richy was also very clear and encouraging. The level of support here on the forum is just amazing, and really appreciated!

 

I've pulled together a shopping list and think I know pretty much what I need. First, I'm gonna get a new DA. I was torn between the Griot's 6" and the PC 7424XP, but after reading reviews I think I'm leaning more toward the PC 7424XP based on noise and reliability. Is there a compelling reason to get the Griot's instead of the PC? Whichever one I buy, I think I need to get a 5" backing plate and I'm looking at Lake Country for that. Then I'm thinking I'll use the Buff and Shine brand 5.5" pads. Does this configuration make sense?

 

Now for the pads, Richy is suggesting the white pads, which from what I can tell are intended for heavy polishing, whatever that means. Edgieguy used the blue and green pads, which from what I can tell are slightly less aggressive than the white ones. Is there much of a difference between these choices, or am I splitting hairs here?

 

I'm pretty clear about the various cleaners, polishes, and waxes I need to get based on Edgieguy's incredible write-up.

 

Richy, I'll definitely take you up on your offer to join the Live2detail forum. I took a really quick look and it's pretty amazing. To a noobie it's like drinking out of a fire hose, but that's a good thing!

 

Thanks again to everyone for your help. Looking forward to the day when I can stop asking dumb questions and actually get started!

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LOL @ drinking from a fire hose! It sounds like you've made some great decisions for pads and products. I love white B & S pads for paint cleaning. They aren't too aggressive and they really show what you pull out.

As far as a machine goes, if your budget allows, I strongly recommend the Rupes 75. Comes with the right sized BP for the B & S pads and is an amazing machine. The others aren't in the same league. I have the bigger Rupes. If that's too much, I would say the Griots due to its superior warranty. The other thing I can't recommend strongly enough is to join Autoality's Detailer Club. Your first order will save you WAY more than the entry fee, especially if you're buying a machine (but he doesn't carry the Rupes-go to Kevin Brown at Buff Daddy for that!). Looking forward to seeing you at L2D.

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Wow, hey thanks for the kind words. Its funny because I'm a student of Richy's in a way myself. He got me hooked into reading the detailing forum he's on, and then answered all my questions about waxes, polishes, machines, pads, etc... got me interested in buying a machine and off I went. It was awesome fun, the results are great and its so rewarding to see those beads everytime it rains. You'll be so happy with your results.

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Richy, today I ordered everything I need to get started on this project. I looked at the Rupes machines and while they look beautiful, they had price tags that were a little too steep and I didn't feel I was worthy of such a nice machine given my complete noobie status. I went with the Griot's new generation machine instead and got a Lake Country 5" backing plate and a good assortment of B&S pads. Since I'm using a slightly smaller BP than the Griot's machine is designed for, do I need to use any special counterweights or take any other precautions?

 

I also got all the cleaners, polishes, waxes, etc. that you and Edgieguy recommended. All except Iron X spray, that is. Couldn't find it in-stock anywhere, even on the manufacturer's website. Maybe they're phasing it out or are about to transition to a new & improved version?

 

I think I'll try the process on my wife's car first. I could use that practice to build my confidence and experience before tackling the Edge. BTW, today I did a very thorough wash on the Edge and was absolutely amazed at how rough the surface was even AFTER the wash. The front end and hood weren't bad, but from just behind the front wheels, all the way along the sides below the belt line, and the entire back of the car was a whole other story. It was so rough I could actually HEAR my fingers running over the surface, and it FELT like 100-grit sandpaper. This car has only been on the road 6 months and it's been driven only very lightly around town, garaged whenever it's not on the road, and it's been carefully washed by hand many times since I've owned it (my garage has a warm water mixing valve for winter use). The car LOOKS great after today's wash job, but I was amazed at all the unseen crap that's embedded in the surface. I'm wondering if it's from the magnesium chloride solution they put down on the roads in the winter, I've heard that's nasty stuff.

 

Anyway, I'm just glad that I'm on the right track to doing a proper reconditioning before too much time goes by. Thanks again to you, Edgieguy, Joehio, and WWWPerfA_ZNOW for all your help. I'm going to join L2D and study up before I get started. Will see you over there!

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Hey Edgieguy, to be honest when I saw your first post the only beading that I could see was the beads of sweat dripping from my forehead! I thought that was WAY beyond my capability and wondered if it was really necessary. I figured that since you're in northern Jersey and I'm in lower CT it would just be a whole lost easier to bribe you with a few beers and have you come up to my place and "show" me how to do it! But your description was very detailed and clear, and I just kept reading it over and over again and looking up the products until I got a pretty good sense of the concept. I'm pretty confident now and can't wait to get started, and I'm looking forward to seeing those beads on my hood instead of on my forehead! Thanks again for your incredibly detailed description. It was really helpful and I hope others are encouraged to try it too!

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Good for you with your purchase. I'm going to spend a bit more of your money, lol. Go to CarProUsa (owned by Corey who's a friend of mine and also a B of D at L2D. He sells the IX and also get the clay block. Easier to use than clay as there's no kneading needed, you can drop it on the ground and not have it ruined (just wash it off) and you can do many cars with it. These 2 products should remove that crap on your paint and then the DG 501 will bite into it. Here's links to both of them:

 

http://www.carpro-us.com/iron-x-500ml/vehicle-decontamination/

 

 

http://www.carpro-us.com/polyshave-decon-block/wash-decontamination/

 

Take pics and let us know how it goes for you. We love happy endings. :)

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You're slowly killing me, Richy.... :stop: But I'm glad you found Iron X. I ordered this and the PolyShave Decon Block, plus the Ultra lubricant for the block. The block looks interesting, seems like a big improvement over clay if it really works as well as they say.Hope to get started next weekend and will take some pics and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

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Wait til next year! For Christmas my wife bought me a tar x iron x spray and a rubber Decon pad that goes on your polisher! What a fun summer of detailing the cars it's going to be.

Oh wait I almost forgot! Richy turned me onto this amazing cleaner cloth for Windows that you simply rinse in water!!!! No chemicals! And finally I'm rid of my pet peeve... that weird fog that appears on your Windows that you only see when the sun hits it at Sun down.

 

http://www.carpro-us.com/fast-glass-5-pack-100-streak-free-glass-cloth/sky-line/

Edited by Edgieguy
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You're slowly killing me, Richy.... :stop: But I'm glad you found Iron X. I ordered this and the PolyShave Decon Block, plus the Ultra lubricant for the block. The block looks interesting, seems like a big improvement over clay if it really works as well as they say.Hope to get started next weekend and will take some pics and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

Cool. Glad to help. Looking forward to the pics.

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Wait til next year! For Christmas my wife bought me a tar x iron x spray and a rubber Decon pad that goes on your polisher! What a fun summer of detailing the cars it's going to be.

 

Oh wait I almost forgot! Richy turned me onto this amazing cleaner cloth for Windows that you simply rinse in water!!!! No chemicals! And finally I'm rid of my pet peeve... that weird fog that appears on your Windows that you only see when the sun hits it at Sun down.

 

Sounds like you're in for a fun summer, Edgieguy! Hey, do you remember the name of that cleaner cloth that Richy put you onto? This morning I drove directly into the sun and what I thought was a nice clean windshield was full of hazy streaks. I can never seem to get a windshield clean!

 

And Richy, I'll post some pics for everyone to show my work in progress and the end results!

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