Jump to content

2011 SEL which Infinity speakers? Choosing a speaker selection...


Recommended Posts

I am totally new to car audio & my last Ford sounded much better then this vehicle. I have read alot on the forums here & can't seem to determine which Infinity speakers most people are running. I know crutchfields site says the 6832cf won't fit the fronts but I think some have anyways. Do I have the option of choosing whichever of the following speakers I would like in their lineup. It seems to me people may be comparing apples to oranges as they are all very different in price but I am also assuming any of these are pretty much better then what comes oem. However I am guessing some work better alone with the stock head unit then others?

 

Infinity Speakers:

infinity reference speakers 6832cf

Infinity REF-8602CFX

ifinity 6829CF

& finally the Infinity Kappas 682.11 which I assume is the big upgrade probably preferably w/ an external amp?

 

Now onto some other speakers I am considering. The only other one I can seem to find with a directional tweeter is the

JBL GTO8628 & one amazon review seems to confirm it fits in all 4 doors on our cars. Does anyone have any opinions on the Kenwoods KFC-C6894PS? I already know the DB571 are another popular option here.

Edited by igotyofire
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got the Kappa's and they're great.

They sounded pretty good when I didn't have an amp, now they rock!

Here's my setup....

 

Alpine PDX-F4 amp

Infinity Kappa 682.11cf speakers

Audiocontrol LC7i

JL Audio JX500/1D mono amp

JL Audio Stealthbox

 

Message me if you have any questions...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I installed kappa components 6809cs on the front doors of my 2012 edge se and mounted the tweeters on the a pillars, also have the 6829cf on my rear doors... Theyre currently amplified with a kicker 4 channel amp, getting about 55 watts rms per channel... They sound really nice, im happy with the price and the sound quality...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We'll ordered the 6829's, It appears our doors have room for the external crossovers from what I can tell on the outside. Since they are nearly half the price of the 628.11's and still part of the Kappa high end series it seemed like the no brainer choice. Hopefully they will go in this weekend. I also ordered the harness plugs and will look into swapping them incase the polarity is indeed backwards. I hope just the front speaker upgrade is enough to fix my quarrels with the oem setup(not sure what was ford thinking! other then cost).

 

1013268_10151794251201438_154634949_n.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

like they said .. double sided foam tape. with it being foam versus "tape" the foam helps to take up the voids and helps to stick. Plus the door panel comes real close to it so its more or less to hold it in place until you get the panel on..

 

Wannbang - the problem with "velcro for my HID ballasts" assuming that you're in the engine bay is heat. The heat levels inside the engine bay are high enough that it'll test any adhesive short of an epoxy (thinking JB-Weld) In the engine bay you're better off with mechanical attachment methods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am using this (which is designed for high heat):

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK1WI/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I have used it for my HID, resistors and what not in the engine bay as well as the crossovers in the panels.

 

Zero issues so far (been in use for over a year). Note: There are many versions of Dual Lock, the above link is for the high temperature version, TB3560, here's some additional info:

 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Oil-Gas_NA/3M-Oil-and-Gas/oil-and-gas-products/~/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener-TB3560-250-250-Clear-1-in-x-10-ft-1-Mated-Strip-Bag?N=4294680114+5027015&Nr=AND(hrcy_id%3A469CZ9X2XLgs_70BK3SKZJK_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv)&rt=d

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wannbang - the problem with "velcro for my HID ballasts" assuming that you're in the engine bay is heat. The heat levels inside the engine bay are high enough that it'll test any adhesive short of an epoxy (thinking JB-Weld) In the engine bay you're better off with mechanical attachment methods.

 

Right right. Took a look inside and I'm glad I also tied them up. lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...