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TSS & OSS sensor change & PCU

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Instructions attached. The OSS and TSS instructions are almost identical. I printed the TSS instruction because it was 12 pages, then I marked the pages as TSS.

Then, I printed the OSS instruction on the other side.

how long did it take to change tss and oss?

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how long did it take to change tss and oss?

 

Only a few minutes because those were the easy parts to remove and replace. It was everything else that took a while. I did the work over two weekends because didn't have the filter/screen/gasket from Ford the day I started. If I had to guess, it probably took me 6 hours total. I probably could have done it quicker but I prefer to clean stuff that I work on.

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Book time is 4 hours. Most people first time it takes upto 8 hours. Just a lot of steps. A good time to conduct multiple drain/fills as well, New fluid can only help.

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Bought a 2008 Edge about a year ago, tranny had a few rough shifts. It recently did the speedo/wrench/airbag thing. Replaced the OSS and TSS, now it shifts like a dream. Pretty straightforward repair, just takes patience and a steady hand. Definitely acquire a 19 mm crows foot, and a visor size mirror; gonna have to have the mirror to make sure the manual pin and manual valve are aligned properly. Only had to remove the right side radiator hose, just pushed the other aside. Also removed the bottom air cleaner assembly bracket, it will bust knuckles when trying to remove nut for thermal bypass valve.

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Also, took a while to figure out the transaxle electrical connection locking mechanism. Poked around it with a screwdriver from under the car and it finally popped right off.

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I just inherited a 2008 Taurus with 55,000 miles that needs these sensors replaced. Doesn't sound like a fun job at all!!!! It's only gone into limp mode once but has a pretty regular stutter under load when cruising down the highway. Kinda feels like I run over a Possum once in a while:):). I'm assuming it's gonna get worse???

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If it is the TSS/OSS, yes it will, most definitely. You should look over the throttle body and MAF sensors, plus do the plugs/pcv valve (if not the coils) first though.

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Hello Everyone. I think I am having this exact issue with my 2010 Edge. Anyone know why I am not able to open the pdfs (instructions) for changing the TSS & OSS sensors on this thread? I made sure and downloaded adobe reader. TIA..

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I am not a mechanic by any means, but have done quite a few repairs myself. I decided to get a quote from the dealership and they are quoting me 1050  for parts and labor. Does this sound reasonable? They said the labor hrs would be 7.5 hrs. Appreciate this forum and the pdfs are very helpful. 

 

Thanks

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Labor is closer to 4 hrs for TSS OSS.  They are asking too much money.

 

Many many non mechanics have done this job.  You can do it too.  Best to use Motorcraft parts of course.  Buy online from Levittown Ford, or Rockauto, or Amazon.

 

The biggest error has not been putting the vehicle in NEUTRAL before shutting off the engine and disconnecting the battery.  Follow instructions closely.

 

Take the time to complete a fluid exchange.  3x drain/fills after the work is buttoned up.  Valvoline Maxlife ATF highly recommended.

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1 hour ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Labor is closer to 4 hrs for TSS OSS.  They are asking too much money.

 

Many many non mechanics have done this job.  You can do it too.  Best to use Motorcraft parts of course.  Buy online from Levittown Ford, or Rockauto, or Amazon.

 

The biggest error has not been putting the vehicle in NEUTRAL before shutting off the engine and disconnecting the battery.  Follow instructions closely.

 

Take the time to complete a fluid exchange.  3x drain/fills after the work is buttoned up.  Valvoline Maxlife ATF highly recommended.

 

 

Thanks....I agree. And will do.....thank you. 

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almost forgot ... be careful to remove only the necessary bolts from the valve body ... unless you want to play eenie meenie mynie moe with the check balls :)  

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I finally had the time to change out the TSS and OSS sensors. Everything went well.....and changed the screen out for a new one. Sad part is my wrench light is still on. It seems to be running fine....but light comes on. I did disconnect the battery. Also just the neg for half hr. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. Any ideas???????? My battery has been collecting corrosion but cleaned it as well. Thought a bad battery connection could have did something.........I guess plugs is next? Or maybe the worst and one of the sensors was a dud? I did notice my mpg went bacl up to 20+......it was showing 14 before I did the job.....hmmmmmm

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looks like the repairs worked.  you may need to clear codes using Forscan Lite, or use the PCM reset that fordtechmakeuloco shows on YT.  Then see if it comes back.

 

check for codes and see if it is an old code that has simply not cleared.  if all is well, at worst a P1000 should have set.

 

did you replace the TCM/ solenoid body assembly also?  if so, the new strategy code on it may be causing a hiccup.  most times it does not.

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19 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

looks like the repairs worked.  you may need to clear codes using Forscan Lite, or use the PCM reset that fordtechmakeuloco shows on YT.  Then see if it comes back.

 

check for codes and see if it is an old code that has simply not cleared.  if all is well, at worst a P1000 should have set.

 

did you replace the TCM/ solenoid body assembly also?  if so, the new strategy code on it may be causing a hiccup.  most times it does not.

I had tried the reset by taking the neg off and running a gator clip from the positive to neg cable only. So not sure if it cleared as I didnt get any codes with scanner.....no p1000. At least it didnt show up on the scan. I only did the two sensors and the fliter/screen. I will try to reset it again and let it learn the tb again....idle.....ac...etc....then drive. It seems to be running ok but feels almost like it is pulling a trailer or something. It doesnt bog down but feels like lack of power in a way. THe light goes off after every restart but comes right back on when going even only10 feet. Im thinking maybe ETB or plugs but it doesnt die down or it really dont even have the rough idle I have seen on some peoples with limo mode......driving me crazy lol

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Pretty sure it cleared this time....but oddly the wrench came back parked with a slight rev of the engine......never did that before....it always had to be moving before.

 

So i did the learning test drive.....and when I returned and hooked up the scanner a flashing traction control light came on....(maybe from moving the steering wheel getting out to hook up scanner) and the same old wrench was still on. Shut it off and restarted and both were gone. Drove again the wrench returned but no traction control light. hmmmmm not sure where to go next. 

 

No codes whats so ever

Edited by pulverizer

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12 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

and no codes at all?

 

No codes. Im also checking the ptu.....making sure it is not shot. Hear bad things about it. 

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Kind of hard to see without a lift, but I am not seeing anything obvious of a ptu failure.  

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Changed the throttle position sensor that controls the throttle body. Still have a light. I guess coils and plugs next....if that dont work I dont know. Maybe ecm after that.....this blows. 

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On 9/4/2020 at 7:41 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

almost forgot ... be careful to remove only the necessary bolts from the valve body ... unless you want to play eenie meenie mynie moe with the check balls :)  

hi, what did you mean when you said necessary, are there other bolts?)

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