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Pull fuse to turn off antilock brakes?

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Does anyone know if there is a fuse I can pull to turn off the antilock brakes? I am having a braking issue and I want to rule out the antilock brake system. My thinking is if I pull the fuse and turn it off. I can drive for a bit and see if I still have the issue. If the issue is still there, I think I can rule out that system. Make sense?

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What ABS problem are you exactly having? Does the ABS light come on?

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Sure it's not the booster issue? What symptoms are you having?

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No ABS light is on. Brakes feel like they pulse when I stop. 6 new rotos, 6 new pads, new Ford Calipers, rotors, pads, brake lines and flushed - same issue. Feels like something is making them grab as I slow down.

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It could be the booster, could be ABS, trying to do some actual diagnostics.

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Who did the brake job? They burnish them after installation?

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Yes, the symptom always returns after about 6 - 9 months. If I put new rotors on right now, it would go away. Then come back in about 6 - 9 months. Ever since I bought her in 2010.

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Always do the bed-in procedure after new brakes/pads install. Did you mean "No ABS light is on" or "No. ABS light IS on?" So is the ABS light on or off?

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Lugs tightened unequally will cause this. Other than that, I'd suspect the calipers.

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I appreciate all the help I can get. ABS light is off and always has been. Everything is torqued, cleaned, etc. when installing them. DIfferent brands, different pad types, etc. Nothing helps. Now all new Ford parts - same issue. It feels like something is grabbing it, not really like a warped rotor. Thus, my question about pulling a fuse.

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Is the pedal difficult to depress initially then softens up when the brakes grab? That is the classic symptom of the failing brake booster. I'd agree with enigma about a caliper issue but also agree that eliminating the ABS system would be good to know.

In the fuse/relay box under the hood there is fuse location 43 (30 amp) designated as "ABS Valves" and fuse location 92 (10 amp) designated "ABS Module." Don't know what pulling them will do as I never have had do that myself. If you have your manual it should give the fuse locations.

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I appreciate all the help I can get. ABS light is off and always has been. Everything is torqued, cleaned, etc. when installing them. DIfferent brands, different pad types, etc. Nothing helps. Now all new Ford parts - same issue. It feels like something is grabbing it, not really like a warped rotor. Thus, my question about pulling a fuse.

You clean up the guide pins, lubricate them when reinstalling? (Thinking new disks may mask the problem and pins being corroded whichs resulting in binding).

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Pedal is fine and has not changed since I have owned it. I always clean and lubricate the pins. I had my mechanic put all new calipers, rotors, etc. I took tires off and checked his work. All new Ford parts. I always clean the front of the wheels (where they touch rotor) and torque them back on at 100lbs.

 

I will try pulling the fuses and see what happens. I am trying to not throw parts at this thing, but I am not sure what to do from a diagnostic perspective. I wonder if a scanner hooked up to it would show the antilocks kicking in when braking. I had posted this same thread a while back and the consensus was new calipers, etc. Did that. Same issue.

 

So what I am thinking is that if the fuses are pulled and the system shut down, I could rule that out if it still did it. If it stopped, I know where my issue is.

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Hey I kinda have same issue kinda. I got my breaks done at Ford all new everything except front calipers but after a month or 2 my advance track abs track control lights came on . My breaks always felt like crap and ford says its noemal Im guessing because I had a warranty at the time but now that I dont Im not tryin to go back because Im sure they will have over $1k of stuff thst needs to be fixed. I also might try to look at fuses I didnt think of that but if you do let me know if it fixes anything . Sorry its harder for me to figure things out from my wheelchair even tho I know cars pretty well

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Not sure if related but I feel like my drive shaft got a lot louder like I feel like I can hear it I guess could be me mixing that sound with my tires getting louder on the road idk

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Brakes! not breaks. Most likely a bad wheel sensor or tone ring. Dealer may have to read the codes to see which wheel. You could inspect (or have someone inspect) the tone ring on each axle (sometimes they break loose) and the wiring going to the sensor. Otherwise if it's the sensor you need to replace it (if the code identifies it).

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Not sure if related but I feel like my drive shaft got a lot louder like I feel like I can hear it I guess could be me mixing that sound with my tires getting louder on the road idk

Some tires get loud and rough after 29k or so. Had a set of Michelin's that made me think I had bad motor mounts after only 20k.

 

What tires are you running, how many miles?

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akirby, if I had to place a bet, I would say sensor and/or tone rings. I have had two tone rings fail and have had new "bearing assembly's? - I forget the name $$$" installed because you can't simply replace the tone ring (although I read on here where someone did it). I think I had one go bad in the rear and one in the front.

 

I have not pulled the fuses yet, but I may do that today. Just a bit scared it will screw something else up (computer/codes). But I think now it is worth the chance.

 

So if it is a tone ring or sensor, pulling the fuses should eliminate them totally.

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Ahh thats what Im afraid of it being somthing like that its goin to cost way to much!!

 

But enigma-2 Im running nitro nt-420s they are great and havent done me wrong . I have 20k at most on them they still have like new tread and never have been that load but I mean it could be them

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