evh

No accidents, no repairs. She wants a Jeep ... Yea, I know... I will post more later.

My 2016 3.5L developed a click at idle with roughly 38,000 miles on it (yes, just out of warranty). It was the tensioner. I purchased a new Motorcraft tensioner for $125 and replaced it myself (not too tough). No more click. It now has 60,000 miles.

Welcome! New guy buys the first round.

Welcome aboard! Let us know what is going on and we will try and help out.

I was WRONG WRONG WRONG! Ok, I started this thread and I am still having issues. My best guess now is my cylinder #6 fuel injector is getting stuck when hot? Here is some more detail. Per above, my car was riding rough and throwing a P0206 and P0306. I thought I had fixed it by going out and disconnecting and reconnecting the electrical connection to the coil??? (I know, makes no sense, let me keep going). But I did that I got back in and it drove fine. Well I got in later that day again and drove 25 miles. No issues. I stopped for a minute and got back in and started it back up. Running rough again and throwing P0206 and P0306. Hmm. I let it sit over night. In the morning I swapped coils and 5 & 6 and also put new OEM boots on the coils. Note the spark plugs are all OEM and have 40,000 miles on them. I started the car and it drove fine. I drove for a while. Stopped and restarted. Running rough and throwing P0206 and P0306. So the error did not follow the coil. So the problem seems to occur when the engine is hot. I did nothing else. The next morning, when it is cold. It runs fine. I have an appointment to bring it into the dealer on Monday. I am pretty sure I could pull the rail and replace the injectors. What do you think? #6 injector is sticking when hot causing the issue? Cooling down it frees up? Try a rail cleaning? Replace all of them? I hope not $$$.

First time I changed the spark plugs I about ruined all those (*^$&^ connectors (red tab, etc.). I finally figured out how they worked after busting 3 or 4 of them. Could they make the plastic any thinner??? Oddly enough, the one on this cylinder was not broken. After 11 years XX,000 heat/cool down cycles, some corrosion must have gotten in there. Class Action!!!!

So i run a quick errand at lunch and get back into my 2009 AWD Edge with 3.5L and 240,000 miles. I start it and I can tell right away it is running rough. Put it in gear and it is still running rough. I can tell it is under powered and running poorly. I keep my eye on the dash waiting for the check engine light. After about 30 seconds it comes on and it is flashing. Uhhggg!. I pulled over and shut it off. I keep a code reader in my car and read the codes. P0206 and P0306. Something is wrong with the 6th cylinder. Likely something wrong with fuel injector vs coil and spark plug. I clear the codes. Start the car. Still running poorly. After about 30 seconds the flashing CEL is on again. I park and head back into work and do some internet research. I decide to come out and simply unplug the fuel injector connector and plug it back in (corrosion?). I get in the car and clear the codes again. I start it (fingers crossed). Smooth as can be. I drive 3 miles. No issues. I get back and read the codes, nothing. I drive home 25 miles, smooth and no codes. Yea, I got lucky. Simply sharing.

The bolts were not loose, the spring/idler wheel would jiggle when the air was turned on and it would make a rattling noise. I replaced it with a new Ford part. It still jiggles when the air was turned on, but there was no rattle. Lots of fun getting the belt back one. Tip - Remove the guard you remove for changing the oil and work underneath as well as on top. Finally got it.

It seems like the whole thing wobbles. Based on the picture I posted, are there just two bolts at the top?

I did some searching, it is the belt tensioner. See pic.

See the attached pictures. My 2016 AWD SEL Edge with 37,000 miles (of course, just out of warranty) just developed a rattle under the hood. The part I am pointing at rattles sometimes (you can see and hear it rattle). Sometimes it stops. My guess is it is the idler pulley or possibly part of the air conditioner. Looks like the belt is attached to it or runs under it. I watched it rattle and then stop (i.e. air conditioner clutch rattling when it grabs and stops when it releases?) Note, air conditioner works fine. Thanks ahead for any help

Sure, here's the story. When I got the Edge in 2010 with roughly 65,000 miles on it, I did my research and found all the posts regarding the PTU. I looked under mine and saw what I thought was a little weeping from it. Panic!!! The deal I got on it came with a special warranty so I took it to the dealer and they put new seals (I think) in it and I was good to go. Well, if they did that, they had to put new fluid in it. So lets assume we had new fluid at 65,000. Role forward to today. It is has now been on the road for 10 years and has 225,000 miles on it. I have had no issue with the PTU and done nothing to it. I want to keep the car for quite a bit longer and decided I should do something, but what??? Well, I have read all (well many of them) of the threads on the PTU and seen the cut away pictures of bad ones. I spoke to a number of "experts and got mixed feedback. So here was my thinking: I could drill a hole in the bottom and but a plug in to help support draining and filling, but I really don't want to do that. If I screw that up, then then I am worse off then before. Not my cup of tea. I have one of those Might Vac suction devices for extracting fluids (note, if you don't have one of those, consider getting one). So I thought about introducing some type of fluid to break up the black sludge and then vacuum it out. All of my experts advised against it. One expert said to do nothing and was treating it like a transmission that has never had service. Thinking that if you change fluids now, you could introduce a problem. That the gunk was keeping it working and new fluid may cause an issue. I have a hard time with that logic. Another expert advised to simply do a number of drain and fills using the correct fluid and because of the Mighty Vac, I can do that. So with the temperature in Michigan at 25 degrees (worse timing ever), I started. The plug on our PTU's has a magnet and it was covered with gunk. I used a zip tie and stuck in down in the hole to see what I had. The level was way down and it was truly black sludge. What I expected give the age and mileage. The low volume didn't concern me too much because I saw no signs of leaks. My assumption is the quantity of fluid in there was correct but it has stuck everywhere and doesn't drain back down. I used the mighty vac and tried to suck some out. It probably got a tablespoon out. Too gunked up. So, I got some 100% synthetic 75W-140 and pumped in 7 squirts of new fluid. Maybe an ounce or two. I did not fill it and I did not want to. I don't want it hurting the seals or have it pumping out the vent. Next week we are supposed to have a day in the 60's. I will get back under there and try to suck some more out and hopefully replace it with a bit more than 7 pumps. I will do this 3 or 4 times and see if I can see progress in breaking up and removing the gunk.

Mine was doing the exact same thing. I sprayed silicone on the top and bottom and that solved it. Door opens and closes much easier as well!

Update: If you read the beginning of this post, you will see I replaced the rear differential fluid in my 2009 Edge on August of 2011 with about 83,000 miles on it. 7 1/2 years later I still own the Edge and it has 225,000 miles on it. Figured I would change it again. I was surprised at how clean the gear oil was. The fill plug has a magnet on it and there was not much stuck to it. Simply sharing. Who knows, maybe it wasn't that clean but a few weeks ago I was trying to change the fluid in my PTU. Black sludge.....l

"I'd like to use 5w30, have some Mobil 1 left over from my Chevy 3.6l I'll probable sell to my buddy or use it in the wife's car." Right, sell it to your buddy. Use only 5W-20.

I corrected my post above where I said the Valvoline link said their conventional 5W-20 met the WSS-M2C946-A spec. That was incorrect. It meets the WSS-M2C945-A spec.

I think you are ok. My 2009 3.5L Edge says to use the Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic but has a note on it that reads " Use of synthetic or semi-synthetic blend motor oil is not mandatory. Engine oil need only meet the requirement of Ford Specification WSS-M2C930-A and the API Certification mark." My 2016 3.5L Edge spec says to use Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic as well and says it must meet spec WSS-M2C945-A. See the following links. What I gather is the conventional oils meet this spec. The second link is the spec sheet for Valvoline 5W-20 conventional motor oil. It says it meets WSS-M2C945-A. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2604859 https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/a2457451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/bab4d631-93bb-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 ** Note - I bought my 2009 used in 2010 with 65,000 miles on it. It was a fleet vehicle for a business salesman (reason for the high mileage). He had all the records and took it to a Valvoline quickie lube shop to have the oil changed. I bet they used the cheapest Valvoline 5W-20 conventional for the first 65,000 miles. When I got it, I have only used the 5W-20 Motorcraft Semi-Sythetic oil (it's pretty cheap at Wally World). I now have 225,000 miles and it doesn't burn any oil. I wouldn't worry.

We bought a used 2016 last summer that is still under warranty. Ever since we got it, the brakes will send you through the windshield. I have never ever been in a car where they are so grabby. Every time. I searched the forum and found the following info below. Does anyone know if this has been extended past the 3/23/2016 build date? As mine was built a few months after that. Any other info you can share? I want to be loaded with information before I hit the dealer up. Thx. Overly Sensitive Brake Application At Low Speed And/Or In Cold/Wet Conditions – 2015-2016 Ford Edge & 2016 Lincoln MKXoemdtc June 2, 2016 Diagnostic Tips2015-2016 Edge And 2016 Lincoln MKX – Overly Sensitive Brake Application At Low Speed And/Or In Cold/Wet Conditions – Built On Or Before 3/23/2016Some 2015-2016 Edge and 2016 Lincoln MKX vehicles built on or before 3/23/2016 may exhibit overly sensitive brake applications. This will typically occur at low speed and/or in cold/wet conditions.To correct the condition, install an updated brake booster with part number F2GZ-2005-F (only 2.0L GTDI with 17” rotors) or F2GZ-2005-E (all except 2.0L GTDI with 17” rotors).PART NUMBER PART NAMEF2GZ-2005-F Brake Booster 2.0L GTDI with 17” RotorsF2GZ-2005-E All Except 2.0L GTDI with 17” RotorsRefer to Workshop Manual, Section 206-07.

Anyone know what a dealership charges to do the official 3X drain and fill procedure? Or to use the "fluid exchange" method that akirby just mentioned? Curious what the bill would be.

I have to second the drain and fill approach. ? I was real happy to see that Ford put a drain plug on my 2009 and also still left a dipstick/fill tube. Mine takes Mercon V. I purchased it used in 2010 with 64,000 miles on it. Every year since I have drained it and filled it. It takes 5.5 quarts every time. I look for the fluid I like to use on sale and buy 6 quarts for $30 - $35 each year. A small price to pay. The drain and fill is actually easier then an oil change since the drain plug is so close to the front. No jacking up the vehicle. Simply drain, and fill. I have a fluid extraction vacuum pump and suck out the power steering fluid and put the remaining 1/2 quart in the power steering pump (it also specify's Mercon V). Roll forward to today (Feb/2019) and my Edge has 225,000 miles on it and the transmission and power steering unit have never had a repair and still work like new. Oddly, when I bought the vehicle new in September of 2010 it already had the transmission fluid replaced. The owner (corporate vehicle - Salesman) had all his work done at a Valvoline quickie lube shop. Not the first place I would have chosen. My bet is they used Valvoline Max-Life transmission fluid (the paper work didn't say what they use). Even more oddly was they also replaced all the antifreeze. The paper work on both did not indicate how they did the service. In 2010 I would guess it would have been some type of fluid extraction device rather then a straight drain and fill. I have also take the drain and fill approach on my antifreeze every other year using a premixed global lifetime fluid. I use that type of fluid vs the Motorcraft specific fluid because I am sure that the quickie lube place did not go get Motorcraft specific fluid. I am sure they used some type of "fits all" fluid. We all know I have jinxed myself. Today I will be driving and my transmission will lockup at the same type my steering goes out and my car overheats. ? Finally, I take my fluids (the tranny fluid is mixed in with the regular oil) to an Advanced Auto Parts retailer. We actually have a local business that will take the antifreeze for free.

A bit of follow-up. So I ordered some new lift supports from RockAuto and installed them. Same issue. I checked the removed supports after removal and they seemed fine. Again, I can hear the motor grind when the buttons are pushed. My thinking is it is the motor. When it is grinding and I lift it about half way, it will catch and bring it up all the way. So I am thinking I would replace the motor. I think that is something I can do. Has anyone done that and can provide any comments? My guess is I remove the plastic panel on the side of the lift and remove the motor. Right? However, here is the catch. I looked up the part number on line and it seems to be part# AA1Z14B351B. That part shows it is no longer available. I called my local Ford parts department and they said it shows it is part number AA1Z14B351D. I asked if he had the part and he had to do some searching. He seemed to imply they would have trouble getting it and would have to go through the dealer network and it would cost a little over $1,000. So that is not an option. I looked on eBay and found some used ones there. So that may be my approach. Anyone have experience with this and can additional information? Thx.

My Mother-in-law called and said when she pressed the button to raise the liftgate on her 2008 MKX, it did not move and made a grinding noise. She said she had to lift it by hand (she did not say that it closed on her). Note I live in Michigan and it is one of our coldest days today (20 degrees). I have not had a chance to look at it yet. My first guess is the lift supports are bad (only 11 years old) and need to be replaced. The grinding has me wondering if I am correct though. Would it grind if it can't open it? Anyone have the same issue? Thx.

HA! So Brucifer's picture could have been my car (it wasn't). I have the same Dark Ink Blue Edge with the same wheel coverings. I have the exact same rust on my car. I had to look at the bigger picture to make sure it wasn't a picture of my car. I wonder if it is a Dark Ink Blue paint thing?

I think the stats show that the Chrysler’s are less reliable. I have a 2009 Edge and HAD a 2013 Grand Cherokee. We owned the Jeep for 2 years until we had an accident. We replaced the Jeep with a 2016 Edge. Currently I don’t care for the 2016 Edge as much as I like my 2009. If I had to replace my 2009 Edge (which I drive), I always thought I would get another Edge. Now I think I might actually get a Jeep. When we owned the 2013 Jeep (purchased used with 60K miles) it had two repairs. Both rear shocks were replaced because one was leaking oil (I was able to do that). The second repair was something with the valves on one side of the engine ticking (a bit of a known problem). It was a $900 repair but covered under their 100,000 warranty. I’m sure if I had to pay the $900 my tone would be a little different. If you are purchasing new you will have at least 3 years with no costs. Finally, get what she wants. If not you will likely continue to hear about it. A wise man once said happy wife happy life! Cheers!

My guess is they are dirty/sticky from use. What I would do is use paper or thin cardboard and spray it with cleaner (window cleaner or 20% solution Simple Green/Water). Then I would take the paper or cardboard and stick it between the buttons and try to clean them. Next I would take more paper/cardboard and spray it with silicone to do the same to try and lubricate.