mano1192 Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Maybe this should be made a sticky! I will be installing my Autopage 1000 tonight and will add any comments to this wire guide: 2007 Ford Edge Car Alarm and Remote Car Starter Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Red Constant 12V+ Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Starter Wire (+): Blue/White Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Second Starter Wire (+): N/A Start Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Wire (+): White/Orange Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Second Ignition Wire: N/A Second Ignition Wire Location: N/A Accessory Wire: Purple/Green Accessory Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Second Accessory Wire: N/A Accessory Wire Location: N/A Tachometer Wire: NOT White/Blue or Purple/Green Tachometer Wire Location: Any ignition coil or fuel injector. Key Sense Wire: Blue/Gray Key Sense Location: Ignition Harness or SJB, conn. B, pin 35. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Door Lock Wire (-): Gray/Yellow Door Lock Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 17. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Door Unlock Wire (-): Purple/Gray Door Unlock Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 4. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Door Trigger Wire (-): Use dome supervision wire. Door Trigger Wire Location: N/A Dome Supervision Wire: Gray/Purple Dome Supervision Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. A, pin 9. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. The exterior mirror puddle lamp is purple (+) at the SJB, conn. C, pin 12. Headlights Wire (-): N/A Headlights Wire Location: N/A Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Purple/White Parking Light Positive Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. D, pin 20. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Parking Light Negative Wire (-): Gray Parking Light Negative Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 31. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. When using the negative parking lights at the switch it is necessary to break the ground wire of the switch with a relay. Trunk/Hatch Pin Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Trunk/Hatch Pin Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 16. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Hood Pin Wire (-): Blue/Orange Hood Pin Wire Location: Pin switch or SJB, conn. F, pin 10. This wire rests at ground and goes to an open circuit when the hood is opened. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Trunk/Hatch Release Wire (-): Brown Trunk/Hatch Release Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 7. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. The hatch release motor wire is green/white (+) in the SJB, conn. D, pin 15. On vehicles with the power liftgate, the open/close wire is gray/yellow (-) at the switch in the dash or in the driver kick. Factory Alarm Arm Wire: N/A Factory Alarm Arm Wire Location: N/A Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Purple/Brown Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 8. Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Factory Alarm Disarm but No Unlock Wire (-): N/A Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A Horn Trigger Wire (-): Blue/White Horn Trigger Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 41. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Brake Wire (+): Purple/White Brake Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 40. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Emergency Parking Brake Wire (+): Blue/Gray Emergency Parking Brake Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. C, pin 1. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 (edited) Hi mano1192. :D Thanks for the info. Good luck with the install. :beerchug: Edited July 12, 2008 by bbf2530 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 sweet... useful no doubt... key wires are great to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mano1192 Posted July 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Almost done with the install, I hook up everything! This alarm/remote start is great. Im used to DEI products and have installed them for over 10 years, but this is my first time using autopage so things are a little slower than normal, but from what Ive seen so far they are far more in depth than a DEI unit. One change to above, I could not find the trunk power lift wire- grey/yellow in the driver kick, so I went to the switch. Its a easier location to grab it from. Another thing to note for remote starters is you will require either a spare key or a bypass unit. The bypass units are $50 and you do not need a extra key made vs the extra keys going for around $100. I have used DEI's bypass module its a 556S. This bypass module will memorize the chip code in your 2 stock keys, then when remote started it will send those codes to the factory key ring sense. Ill add more once the full install is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Where did you buy everything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mano1192 Posted July 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 I got the autopage rs-1000 on ebay for $200 flat, the bypass unit I got from my local vendor. My local vendor also sells autopages but it was 350 so I went to ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mano1192 Posted July 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 Ok so the install went well, I took my time and did a good job, sodering all ignition wires. I was able to go strait to the injector for the tach wire. This same wire is also in the firewall on the driver side, but I did not have a multimeter only a test probe, so I was not going to be testing wires with that and went to the sure wire. Door locks are single negatice pulse which is nice, I also found there is a positive lock wire too. The trunk pop is also verified (for the power lift gate). Ignition wires also matched up with the list above. One note is that the dome supervision will not work during the day as there is a daylight sensor preventing the circuit from closing. It works during the night fine. The only problem I have to figure out is on the edge the accesory wire (radio) will continue to run until a door is opened. So for instance if you remote start the car, and it times out (I have mine progrmed to run for 10 mins) and the engine shuts off the radio will continue to run until the door is triggered. This is a problem for me as my amps will drain the battery dead in about 3 minutes. Naturally I remote start the car then get in and drive off, but for any reason I get held up the radio will continue to play. The solution I think will work is sending a negative pulse to the door pin wire upon unit shutdown. This may pose a problem but I will have to experiment on it when I have some time. Besides that the Edge is a breeze to install alarms or remote starters on. All your wires are right in the driver kick panel and wire colors all matched up with the list above. /steve PS. Does anyone know if the window rolls up with the key held to the lock position from outside the vehicle? Have yet to try it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mano1192 Posted July 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 Link to unit: http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?f...&category0= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securinu Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 no the windows dont roll up and i have yet to do window rollup yet as there is no room in the drivers boot to feed the driver wires . all the rest can be accesed in the driver kick. I need to get the front fender off to drill and run a new grommet for the door as there is no room to drill a new hole. As for 12 volts the best thing to do is run up to the battery since it is right there and if you pull the battery there is a huge grommet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securinu Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 Also if you didnt use the brown white wire for horn output you can change it to a factory security rearm in the setting and use a relay to splitone of the 2 front door trigger wires. if your amps kill the battery in 3 minutes you need a different battery . Try Kinetik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mano1192 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 I have programmable outs so that was my thinking as well, just hit one of the front door triggers upon shutdown. I am pushing 1000 watts right now and have yet to add my other amp that will push me to around 1500 wats total. I definetly need a larger battery. I have done "the big" 3 upgrade and have no problems with lights dimming ect. but I expect to have issues with the 2nd amp. I have the room in the spare area, I may just add another small lead acid battery and use that for the extra capacity, but I usually upgrade the alternator before that step as it adds more strain the more batteries it needs to charge. Also if you didnt use the brown white wire for horn output you can change it to a factory security rearm in the setting and use a relay to splitone of the 2 front door trigger wires. if your amps kill the battery in 3 minutes you need a different battery . Try Kinetik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mano1192 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 This is very tru, these door gromets are way too crammed to feed wires through, I had to use the stock speaker wires for my comps to the crossover. The firewall gromet is gigantic, I have 0 gauge running through there plus my siren and tach wires. Did you find the tack in that main grommet? I always had luck finding it there in fords, usually a brown/yellow or grey/yellow... .. no the windows dont roll up and i have yet to do window rollup yet as there is no room in the drivers boot to feed the driver wires . all the rest can be accesed in the driver kick. I need to get the front fender off to drill and run a new grommet for the door as there is no room to drill a new hole. As for 12 volts the best thing to do is run up to the battery since it is right there and if you pull the battery there is a huge grommet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securinu Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 no mine is tachless never had an issue . also if you get a kinetik you will only need one battery i just put an khc1800 in mine. here are the specs. Kinetik HC1800 Power Cell Full size powerhouse. Fits vehicles with larger battery boxes. Capable of powering nearly any system without compromise. Specifications Weight: 54 lbs. Ah: 81 Amps: 1900 Dimensions: 10" x 6.5" x 8.2" Suggested Retail: $419.99 http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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