2016 Edge Titanium AWD Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 2016 Edge AWD - Titanium On my way to the mall this morning when I turned the corner and the back hatch glass exploded. Seemed to explode from the wiper motor location outward. Edge is completely original, low mileage and I don't think it ever had any work done on the hatch. Glass went opaque and started to fall in. Oddly, pieces of glass fell apart around the bottom outer edges. Was 32 F; - not severe weather. Rear defrost wasn't on or needed, so I'm not sure what caused the glass to break. Only experienced this once before with a rear window when a hot spot in the rear defroster caused the back window in my '78 Dodge to explode. On to Speedy AutoGlass tomorrow. If this is a known issue, posted and covered elsewhere in the forum I couldn't find it. The more I tried to zero in on the glass, the greater the number of search result pages were. Uuugh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben senise Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 IIRC there was a recall or TSB on this issue a while back. i had a 2016 and took it in to be fixed. sorry i can't find it and don't have time right this moment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabangsta Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 A few threads here on this, but most of them involve using the rear window defroster as you mention. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2016 Edge Titanium AWD Posted January 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 (edited) Well the glass shop cleared the old glass from the hatch and taped some heavy duty clear plastic (like that used to wrap boats for winter storage) over the opening and directly to the body of the vehicle. That meant the tailgate could not be opened. Also, unfortunately they managed to partially close the hatch so that the warning light was on. Trying to push the tailgate closed was futile, it would not go on latch perhaps because something was jammed between the hatch and the body of the vehicle. I actually didn't think it was possible to close the hatch and not completely latch it. Anyway, we were waiting for the glass to come in from the warehouse the next morning. What did this do for the battery?? Read on ... Apparently the BCM would not go to sleep even though the four doors were closed and locked, waiting for someone to close the hatch. At first I couldn't get the exterior lights on the mirrors or the cabin lights to go out, but eventually they timed out after 10 minutes. But the BCM was still active. Had parked the vehicle in the driveway thinking it was locked down and secure the afternoon after going to the glass shop to file the claim and arrange for them to do some prep and re-wrap the hatch so the vehicle could be driven. The vehicle sat for about 21 hours and when I came out to start it the battery was flat (actually 12.02 volts). Not even enough power to open the door using the factory code. So now I'm about to take two 'trips' with the vehicle I've never done before, the first being "how do you get into the vehicle when the battery is dead?", and second "how to you use the key in the FOB to unlock the door?". Well, the owner's manual is a feat of stupidity, or maybe I'm just dense, because the verbiage and the pictures of how to remove the cap over the lock cylinder were not clear (considering that this is a manufacturer that used to provide some really good engineering drawings in their shop manuals in the 1960's) and given that the key had never been used in 6+ years, the cap was difficult to 'slide' off once the tip of the key was inserted underneath the cap. OK, now the door is unlocked, and my FOB is in three pieces including the special key, plus the cap that slides back over the lock cylinder but didn't click when replaced. I'm starting to shake my head in disbelief. When I decided to boost the vehicle with my multi-range charger, it was now 1:30 in the afternoon and I'm already a half hour late for my glass appointment. As soon as I connected the battery charger (first at 12 volts / 2 amps) the vehicle thought I trying to steal it (with a dead battery?!) and the horn went off and wouldn't cease. Unlocking the doors, or silencing with the FOB did nothing, BUT trying to start the vehicle in the presence of the FOB actually did silence the horn! What the vehicle had done to this point with the horn must be an engineer's inside joke I guess. Imagine trying to do this at 2AM in a residential area?? So, after reaching 12.7 volts on 'nuclear' (10 amps) for 20 minutes, the vehicle finally started and continued to complain that the hatch was partly open (yes, I know this!). Now, after two days, several starts and not much travel the standby voltage was 12.4 volts, (the battery is a 2 year old DieHard from CarQuest BTW) so I've put the charger back on nuclear for an hour or so and will switch to 2 amps for a couple of more hours. And it's now raining outside, so I must make sure I'm well grounded before I grab the AC cord to disconnect the charger and my eyes light up! (humor!). Not overly impressed with what happened but that is life in the slow lane I guess. Edited January 12, 2023 by 2016 Edge Titanium AWD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabangsta Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 ?Quite the experience, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, right? When my wrecked 2017 Escape was in my driveway, and the door wouldn't close, I had a similar experience, I really had to try hard to get the door to close (the top of the window frame was 4 inches out, but latched to shut off the light), the battery minder helped a little. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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