Mileage & Time on your Edge when the water pump failed?

[Chipster]

As the owner of a 2016 Edge powered by the 3.5 engine and made aware of the Achilles heel (internal water pump) that this engine has few years before I bought mine, but was not aware of the scope of this issue. One of the aspects of this issue that I am very interested in is what sort of mileage / time did you owners have on theirs when the problem showed itself? One other question is how proactive with preventive measures (reg. oil changes & coolant flushes) were you? When the pump took a crap, did you catch it before your motor was trashed, and if not, did you put another motor in, or was yours re-buildable? What sort of cost was involved in making your Edge “right” whether from a total failure or just replacing the pump with the other associated parts?

[Chipster]

No replies?

[enigma-2]

From what I've read, most failures were related to lack of maintenance (not changing the coolant or oil changes properly.)

 

I plan on having mine changed at around 175k. (My 2009 3.5L MKX currently has around 144k.) My mechanic drops the engine, and changes everything that fails when he does water pump. Not just the water pump, thermostat, timing, but camshaft phasers as well. 

[garycrist]

2008 Limited with 215K miles and I changed the antifreeze once a few years ago.

Still running fine with no problems.

[lalondem_98]

Ford Edge 2010 around 150K miles.  I am the at least the third owner and the care was poorly maintained....nevertheless the engine was running fine before the water pump failure.  I replaced myself the water pump, the timing chains (primary and secondary), the chain tensioners, the chain guides (including the revised guide with the chain running on top of the guide instead of underneath), the oil pump, the timing chain cover (I broke a corner on removal of the old), crankshaft gear, cams gears, valve cover gaskets and seals, engine flush.  I did not change the phasers and the VCTs.  About $800 in parts (bought at rockauto, ebay and ford dealer only the timing chain cover)... I am not that interested in calculating the exact cost!

 

PS: the car starts fine, runs fine, does not leak a drop of oil but there is low oil pressure, there is a rattling noise and I have OBD codes P0022 and P0012.

[1004ron]

2 hours ago, lalondem_98 said:

I replaced myself the water pump, the timing chains (primary and secondary), the chain tensioners, the chain guides (including the revised guide with the chain running on top of the guide instead of underneath), the oil pump, the timing chain cover (I broke a corner on removal of the old), crankshaft gear, cams gears, valve cover gaskets and seals, engine flush.  

 

PS: the car starts fine, runs fine, does not leak a drop of oil but there is low oil pressure, there is a rattling noise and I have OBD codes P0022 and P0012.

The camshaft position codes are likely a result of the low oil pressure.

 

If you used a solvent type flush keep a very close eye on the oil filter - the dislodged sludge will choke the filter and even though it has a pressure relief/bypass it would have dangerously low oil flow/pressure.

 

I used a solvent detergent additive about a year ago in a used car I bought and when I checked the oil filter at less than 1K miles it was partially collapsed - did an oil change then and another two at 1K interval and thereafter went to 5K interval.

[lalondem_98]

After the repair I poured Penzoil high mileage full synthetic oil and poured 2 bottles of "Kleen-Flo Engine Flush 350-mL" to flush the engine.  I let the engine run about 30 or 40 minutes and then drained the oil and threw away the oil filter.  The noisy engine is currently running 5W-20 Valvoline high mileage full synthetic oil (I went with Valvoline since there was a deal on it).