Heres from the 2019 Edge ST FSM. This one is a little easier to read than the 2022 one that was posted in the other thread. Both have you adding 1 quart at the end, after you install the leveling bolt for the final time.   2019_edge_transmission.pdf

That's interesting. My service manual doesn't say anything about adding fluid after installing the level plug. My service manual (on a CD) shows a published date of October 2018. Wonder if there was a revision to this procedure?

Using a switch to toggle the power to the TPMS/RF Module is a solution that works. I think there must be something on the MS CAN-Bus that wakes up the module. I replaced the module and the issue persisted. There is a watchdog timer that cycles the system every 90 seconds to prevent the car going into deep sleep.   The 2011 Ford Edge uses a watchdog timer to prevent the vehicle's systems from becoming unresponsive. It periodically resets itself, waking up the MS-CAN bus every 90 seconds. This ensures proper communication between modules and prevents the system from entering a deep sleep loop mode that could cause issues. Here's a more detailed explanation: Watchdog Timer: The watchdog timer is a safety mechanism that resets the vehicle's systems if they become unresponsive. It's like a built-in "are you still there?" check.    MS-CAN Bus: The MS-CAN (Medium Speed Controller Area Network) bus is a communication network within the vehicle that allows different electronic modules to talk to each other.    90-Second Cycle: The watchdog timer on the 2011 Ford Edge is configured to reset every 90 seconds. This means that the MS-CAN bus is briefly interrupted and then restored.    Preventing Deep Sleep: This periodic reset is crucial for preventing the vehicle from entering deep sleep mode. Deep sleep can occur if the vehicle is inactive for an extended period (e.g., 14 days) or if the battery voltage drops too low. Deep sleep mode conserves battery power but can also cause issues when the vehicle is restarted. 

Looks like I might have gotten lucky (I might regret typing that).  On a whim, as a last ditch try, I sprayed the center alignment bearing with some silicone lubricant.  As of today (2 days now), no noise.  Even when seeing the Intelligent AWD indicate power sent to the rear wheels.  That leads me to wanting to change out the bearing.  My question to the group, what is the recommended approach to moving the exhaust out of the way?  I'm seeing that I can disconnect before the catalytic converter.  Hoping I can just lower it down enough to move it out of the way.  It's looking like the drive shaft bolts are T-45.  I've watched a few videos highlighting how to sperate the driveshaft.  Hoping mine isn't too stuck.

Hi all, Audio file and video link provided near the end of post.   Vehicle in question is my girlfriends.  Purchased just shy of a month ago from a reputable dealership with a 3-month/3000 mile full warranty on the engine, drive train, and axles.  Vehicle has good service history.  It's been driven about 1000 miles since purchase, and it currently has about 97.5K miles on it.  No CEL or other trouble indications.  No issues whatsoever until this happened.   This engine has been one of the quieter direct injection engines I've been around...until my girlfriend started it 2 days ago to run some errands.  I heard it from 30' away, so I stopped her, and had her pop the hood.  Sound seems to be coming from the top end, more rearward in the engine bay than forward, and more on the right side than the left.  The sound lasted a full 10 minutes before I took it on a slooow test drive during which it lasted maybe another 5-10 minutes until I couldn't hear it in the cabin.  It sounded pretty normal when I pulled into our driveway.   At that point I decided to take it for a 'normal' speed drive, and I noticed during slow acceleration it had 2-3 slight but distinct shudders or 'hiccups' at what 'seem' to be shift points up to around 30 mph.  The digital tach needle would 'flutter' about +/- 50 RPMs whenever I felt them.  Sport was about the same, maybe slightly worse.  Normal and aggressive acceleration seem normal and acceleration was snappy.  I'm not sure the noise and shuddering are related, but it doesn't seem like a coincidence to me, but I know there were torque converter issues with some of these Edges.   And for the record, fluid levels were checked the night before, and all was fine.  Also, when my girlfriend started it up the next day after sitting for about 10 hours, the noise was there, but not as pronounced, and it quieted down after maybe 3-5 minutes.  Nights have been cool for a change, but not cold.   Any ideas?  I want to be able to steer the dealer tech in the right direction just in case it's acting more subtly than what I captured in the audio/video.  I initially thought cam phaser(s), and/or timing chain, or turbo waste gate, but again, there were those shudders...   BTW, the loud 'scraping' sound you'll hear at about 6, 9, and 14 seconds is when the RPMs are dropping back down.   Thanks.     Video link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CkJgT8a2biDWg7ZpLnIagJD2tjD-UOcY/view?usp=sharing   PXL-20250903-062532269.mp3

Thanks dabangsta!  

That is the 8F57 specs (full plus 1 quart), the 8F35 is just fill to the bottom of the sight plug.

You dont really have to worry about how much fluid the RDU takes if you can get the vehicle level. Just pump it in until it runs down the case and its full. 

Can confirm the 2019 ST FSM says the same thing. I'm getting ready to do my first fluid change at ~40K and will follow the FSM exactly.

Where did you get yours?