I believe that the Motorcraft Super Duty BRSD pads are semi-metallic pads. They are intended for Edges & MKXs with the factory tow pkg. (More fade resistant and better stopping power under heavier loads.) It's what i have on my 2009 MKX; and I'm satisfied.   Have the Pirelli Scorpion's as well. Very satisfied. Years ago ran Michelins. Good tires for the first 20k or so, then got through the great soft rubber in the tread and into the rubber that gives it the extra long milage and couldn't stand the roughness and loudness.    You're going to find the Pirelli's are really good tires and stay consistent throughout their life.    A recommendation if I may. Have the break fluid changed  when you so the brake job.   People don't realize that brake fluid gets scalding hot in use, and it's hygroscopic, meaning it naturally acts like a sponge and absorbs moisture from the surrounding air.   As moisture accumulates in the brake fluid, and gets heated over and over, it starts to break down. This drastically lowers the fluid's boiling point and cause the brake fluid to boil under hard use.   Boiling turns the liquid into gas bubbles and because gas compresses easily, your brakes will begin to feel soft.   This is another important factor which can (significantly) increase your stopping distance.

Just to close this topic.   Replacing the alternator seems to have fix all the problems.  This car seems to have quirky electrical problems anyways.  Thanks all

The other thing they discontinued with the ST was the hood insulator blanket. You can order one and install it yourself. 

They stopped using the cover early in the 2019 model year.  My ST was produced in late 2018 and it included the cover from the factory.

Thanks for all the information.  My Edge is FWD and has a towing package. We do not tow anything.  I drive it a little aggressively. My wife does not (lol). We have owned the 08 since day 1, we ordered it, and it still looks new. I've always felt the brakes were inadequate. They just never "grabbed" well, if that makes sense. Maybe that's just how they are??? The stopping always seemed to take longer than it should. I had a 14 Edge, and it always stopped much better.  I can't seem to find a semi metallic Ford motorcraft pad and the regular pads I believe are organic material? I had the rear wheel bearing done a few months back and the brakes needed to be changed, so we put the Element 3 pads from Raybestos on the rear. Now I see Raybestos filed for Bankruptcy.  I was going to get the Centric semi metallic for the front, but that is part of Raybestos! Ugh.  Now we need front wheel bearings and an outer tie rod end (doing both) and the brakes have about 50% pad left, but I figured I would replace them since everything comes off anyways and there would be no labor charge. At this point with 242,000 miles I figured it would be the last brake job.  Also getting new Pirelli Scorpion AS+3 tires, my Michelins are almost 10 years old! So, Im getting ready to drop about $1600 on everything. Fingers crossed she lasts a few more years!

I am it was the rear diff, it was cracked and 2 days ago it fully split apart. Ill add pics of when I got it back from the shop and now

Could be a thousand things. When you turn the car to "on", do you hear the low pressure fuel pump in the gas tank?

Think they discontinued the appearance cover in 2021. I believe that the covers from 2019 & 2020 will fit and may be  possible to pick one up off ebay or junk yard. (Maybe someone can verify the years)

Have you checked the cars CV joints? Worn inner CV joints can cause a shudder during acceleration. If the shudder disappears when you take your foot off the gas pedal and let the car coast at 40 mph, check the joints.   The second thing I'd check is the AWD driveshaft center support bearing. Your 2008 AWD has a two-section driveshaft running to the rear wheels. The two sections connect through  a bearing at the center of the two. At 160k miles, its possible that the rubber dampener around the center bearing has worn which causes the shaft to wobble at the specific speed you mentioned. You can check this by shaking the driveshafts near the middle bearing. There should be no play. Any play at all is wear.   Anotheg possibly as reported in the 150 forum that they traced this to the torque converter clutch. You can test this by accelerating to ~40 mph and when experiencing the shake near a shift point, lightly tap the brake pedal with your left foot while keeping your right foot on the gas. If the shaking stops instantly, the torque converter clutch is probably slipping.   .