I have a 2018 Edge 3.5L V6 AWD SEL with 87,000 miles. I'm starting to notice rough shifting, some hesitation on downshifts, clunking on change of mind shifts, etc. I discussed this with a service writer at the local Ford dealership. He said that diagnostics would cost around $450 and they might not find anything. He suggested instead that I either do a transmission drain and fill or a flush and fill. The flush and fill was about twice the cost of the drain and fill ($500 versus $250). Since Ford doesn't recommend transmission service in the maintenance schedule, I haven't had any transmission work done on the car. I have no idea if either makes sense, but I worry that the flush and fill might cause more harm than good, maybe loosening debris in the transmission that could jam something in the valve body or wherever. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

I think garycrist has a better handle on this than me (electrical gremlins....yikes!).  But...how old is the battery?  I don't think that is the issue given your readings, but you never know.

Does anyone know how to order replacement parts for the factory ambient lighting? Both of my footwell lights are acting up.

You might look at the battery terminals replace as nessary. A bad chassis ground or the PLUS side of the battery to the power distribution box would cause the problem you described. Those originate at the battery in most cases. Your charging system appears to good, according to your readings.   As a side note, take your high RPM readings with ALL of the electrical load. A/C on ,fan on high, bright lights, etc. or 1/2 volt or so above the resting voltage about 12.8 volts.

Looking further into it, -- We have a U0401. -- Ran a key off self test, got DTC P1464  AC demand out of range.  AC clutch did not engage -- static pressure is 62 psi at measured ambient 75 F on both sides R-1234yf table says it should be 82.2 PSI at that temp. -- New Note:  Manifold guage reads 62 PSI at 75F, AC_PRESS PID reads 105...out of range?  Would that stop compressor clutch?  Calls for Pinpoint test A -- ACCCLT_ALW  (AC clutch allow) is NO on Forscan. All other Forscan AC PID's are OK or yes.   At this point, I'm thinking either a bad HVAC module (due to the U0401) or low refrig (based on static pressure).   Gotta figure our why clutch is not engaging.   Any thoughts appreciated.  

Confirming Ford of Canada's release of their Full Dealer Bulletin and Field Service Action (FSA) process, using the same PDF documents that are attached above...    

Battery Drain analysis procedures from the 2011 and 2015 Edge Workshop Manuals and fuse-circuit information are attached below as PDF documents.   Click here to view Ford parasitic draw test (Link to extremely thorough, step-by-step online video, which contains no audio commentary), referenced in 2015 document.   Good luck!   Battery Drain Test - General Procedures - 2011 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Battery Junction Box Diagram - 2011 Edge.pdf Battery Junction Box - Fuse-Circuit Listing - 2011 Edge.pdf Body Control Module (BCM) aka Smart Junction Box (SJB) Diagram - 2011 Edge.pdf Body Control Module (BCM) aka Smart Junction Box (SJB) - Fuse-Circuit Listing - 2011 Edge.pdf Battery Drain Check - General Procedures - 2015 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

My apologies for taking so long to respond back to you. I knew something did not see right with torque values. I guess that is what I get for buying a manual off eBay. Should have come here first. I was able to get the brakes done. I was amazed how easy it was to push the pistons back into the caliper. I do not need to spin them back in. I bought a brake tool compressor kit believing I need to screw them in. Will also use the info here to do the front. Thank you very much Haz for posting this for me. 

I have a 2010 ford edge sel awd. I'm having an issue where when I drive the electrical system will randomly cut off after all the dash lights flash. the engine is still running but I lose all power. The car will start with no problem every time I start it. When I check the battery with a multimeter while the car is on it is around 13.25-13.5 then when i press the gas, I'm at a solid 14.0 but I can't get a read on it when the power is off because it only happens while driving. If anyone can give me a thought on where to start or what the problem sounds like that would be awesome. I'm going to start with the serpentine belt while I take my alternator to be tested but I would think I would have trouble starting the car if it was that.

Ok, I got under the car and found the cooler and fill plug.  Looks the same as the photos posted originally by boostededge.  I only have ramps, so it definitely would be tight to get in there, but looks like it could be done.  With ramps I wouldn't be able to turn the tires and squeeze more fluid in either.     Also, just wondering if a failure happens by chance after I did this if Ford could tell it has been tampered with/changed and since it wasn't done at the dealer they might not cover it under my Ford ESP extended warranty?  They might say I did something wrong.