akirby

The problem is the engine temp gauge only reports the coolant temperature, not the temperature of the cylinder walls.

Yes, forscan. It's cheaper to make it a soft button since it's only on some models. It comes on automatically when it's cold and you use remote start so that reduces the need to turn it on manually.

On second thought not a good idea. Even without coolant circulating the coolant in the block absorbs the heat from the engine. Without it the engine would get very hot almost instantly. Maybe using water instead of coolant and changing the oil frequently would help.

That is an interesting scenario. I'm sure it won't overheat within a 1/4 mile but I'm not sure if a total lack of coolant would affect anything else internal to the engine. Obviously the water pump doesn't matter. If you decide to do that I'd recommend testing it in the driveway idling first.

Touch screen only but you can make it show up on the home screen. On the dealer websites look at the window sticker to see if it has the right package.

They do if you have auto-wipers set to off. If you have auto-wipers set to on they only come on when you get rain on the windshield. In that case the intermittent setting is the sensitivity of the rain sensor. Assuming you have auto-wipers.

Or get the service mgr to actually talk to the technician about it and let the technician correct him (if he's just misinformed).

Yet another example where Ford engineering fails. They really need to either take more time, do more testing or get better engineers/software. Edit - or get better suppliers and/or stop squeezing them so hard on cost

Try removing and reattaching them (the center usually either pops out or in to loosen them) or just replace them. Pretty cheap and easy either way.

Most likely the caliper. Did you bleed the lines? Did you crack open the bleeder before you pushed the caliper back in?

Can't you just select the music and pause it before you start the car?

That's why I asked. Should be easy and cheap to change it just to be safe.

I was always partial to Cragar Keystones.

30 years of chasing IT problems..........

Or just holding it at 4K rpm in park or while driving using selectshift would charge much faster than any highway speed. It's the engine RPM not the vehicle speed.

Simple - find a new dealer. Or a locksmith that has a Ford IDS and can program the keys without duplicating one.

I have a friend who is a former Ford tranny engineer and he's never mentioned anything about faster/harder shifts being bad other than for driveability for the average driver. It's pretty easy to get good fast shifts but the average driver wouldn't like the feel.

Crack the bleed screw and see if the caliper releases. If it does that would point to the ABS or the brake line itself not releasing pressure. If it doesn't release that would point to the caliper being stuck. Did you bleed the brake line? If so, how? Did you replace the soft brake line to the caliper? Any warning lights on the dash?

To look at it from their point of view, they were working when they gave them to you and I assume there is no warranty, so I'm not sure why they should be responsible for fixing the problem. I don't know if they were trying to rip you off with the 3 key requirement of the service tech just had no clue what they were talking about. I'd say it's 50/50 either way.

Make sure the mykey is nowhere near the vehicle when using the admin key. I thought you meant you replaced the battery in the fob itself. You could try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes to see if it resets the mykey menu.

Replacing the battery shouldn't change the admin key. Either way the dealer can erase the learned keys and relearn them both as admins then you can set one for mykey if that's what you want. Although you really shouldn't need to go past 80 in the first place.

Replacing the battery shouldn't change the admin key. Either way the dealer can erase the learned keys and relearn them both as admins then you can set one for mykey if that's what you want.

Also paintscratch.com - they have kits including the tri-coat paints.

Scuff it, prime it and paint it just like any other part. Or use plasti-dip.

If it's hitting 14.5 that's probably the battery itself.