Chingon

They are the second set of numbers. Pretty sure the chef is buying them but will update when PayPal funds are sent.

Sold! Thanks Duane. Enjoy!

The big issues I encountered with installing my KYB struts: monroe mounting kit #907948 was a duplicate part not needed with motorcraft AD-1071. I thought they were the bottom mounts, but they are the top. I had to used the old bottoms, luckily they were in OK shape... The Moog K90461 suspension mount with bellow kit I ordered was not OEM, but neither are the KYB struts. Sort of had to guess how they went together, hopefully I got it right. Tightening the top strut rod bolt was also iffy. Instructions say not to use an impact, and while in my spring clamp with the bellow on I didn't want to try that with the old rag and vice grip/impact trick. What I did was use a 22mm deep socket (1/2" drive) with a 10mm socket and extension through it. I used vice grips on the socket and twisted the strut rod to tighten the bolt. However, I could only go so deep before the 10mm socket shoulder contacted the back of the 22mm socket. Not THAT tight, but hopefully OK. Theoretically need a special tool for this part.

Great video BTW, thanks. Anyone know the torque specs for the lower strut bolts? I'm guessing 100ft-lbs....

Is this on Youtube yet? I'm just awaiting the parts from RockAuto - just doing struts/shocks for now...

I've watched the excellent videos from MAC and will refer to the AWD build thread here, but I was hoping to get a double-check on my gameplan (unsure of differences between AWD and FWD). Background: my girlfriend's struts are completely gone, and one of the bellows is torn/exposing the shaft. The left ball joint (I think, it's not the brakes) is making an intermittent metal scraping sound, so I told her to park it until I'm done. I assume the rear shocks are OEM too. Car has about 93k miles total. Goal: Ultimately, I'd just like to keep it on the road another 50k miles at least. Fix obvious issues like struts/ball joints, but also any other parts that are associated with this work while I have it apart. EG - I plan to replace the strut mounts, bushings, bellows, etc. in lieu of just swapping the strut. I'll plan to do ball joints left and right, even though only the left is dying (I think). Maybe I should do sway bar stuff as well? Tie rod ends? Wheel bearings? Spark plugs? Suspension : Control Arm MOOG RK620487 {#8T4Z3079A} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint R-Series Front Left Lower A $67.79 $67.79 MOOG RK620486 {#8T4Z3078A} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint R-Series Front Right Lower B $67.79 $67.79 Suspension : Shock Absorber KYB 349068 GR-2 / Excel-G Rear D $38.79 $77.58 Suspension : Strut Mount MOTORCRAFT AD1071 {#9T4Z18183A} Front Upper A $32.89 $65.78 Suspension : Strut Bellow SACHS 900096 (Only 4 Remaining) Front C $14.12 $28.24 Suspension : Strut KYB 334693 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Left D $80.79 $80.79 KYB 334692 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Right D $80.79 $80.79 Suspension : Coil Spring Insulator MONROE 907948 Strut-Mate Coil Spring Insulator Front Upper C $7.86 $15.72 Suspension : Strut Mount Bushing MOTORCRAFT AD1060 {#8T4Z18198A} Front A $5.16 $10.32 Suspension : Stabilizer Bar Link MOOG K750184 {#7T4Z5A486AA, 99633306904, L20628170} Problem Solver Rear; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces C $39.79 $79.58 MOOG K750159 {#7T4Z5K483A} Problem Solver Front; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing to Allow Grease to Penetrate Bearing Surfaces C $25.79 $51.58 Ignition : Spark Plug MOTORCRAFT SP411 {#AYFS22FM, AYFS22FMF4} Finewire Platinum Gap: .054 D $3.39 $20.34 Steering : Tie Rod End MOOG ES800473 {#7T4Z3A130A} Problem Solver Right Outer; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces D $32.79 $32.79 MOOG ES800474 {#7T4Z3A130B} Problem Solver Left Outer; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces D $32.79 $32.79 MOOG EV800576 {#7T4Z3280A} Problem Solver Inner D $28.79 $28.79 Looking at $754 shipped here, not sure if I'm completely overdoing it with the tie rod stuff and stabilizer bar links. I might be able to skimp on one of the LCA's for a little while. Just figured if I'm already down there and car is up in the air... Thoughts? I've priced out the KYB stuff for now

Ok, planning to do a fairly detailed suspension thread and putting together a parts list. I'd like to go OEM, but apparently there are two different part numbers based on the build date. 18" wheels. From Ford parts: Right Front AST-867 for a build date before 11/16/2008 $95.22 AST-888 for a build date after that. $90.03 Left Front AST-891 $67.44 From Rock Auto: Right Front AST913 {#AST888 $56.79 AST867 $65.79 Left Front AST910 {#AST891 $46.79 AST868 $65.79 Door Jam sticker says build date was 11/2008. Great. I have exactly 50% chance of choosing wrong. On the left I'm confident in 891, but does anyone know if there's a difference between AST913(888) and AST 867? Google says nothing... I'm almost leaning towards KYB just to avoid a frustrating return with Rock Auto. They've sold me the wrong part before, and because Ford listed the wrong part for my Taurus (bastardized fuel pump assemblies with like 20393 different build combinations) they wouldn't cover return shipping...

Any update? Here's a similar thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11065-car-wont-start-errors-oil-pressure-low-tire-pressure-fault-engine-temp-data-error/

Any update on this? My old lady's Edge is doing this now. Here's a thread I found: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11065-car-wont-start-errors-oil-pressure-low-tire-pressure-fault-engine-temp-data-error/

Any update as to the "correct" bulb? I'm on my 3rd Autozone bulb in less than 10k miles...

Ok, it was getting late last night and I was nearing the end of my growler The little rubber plug is shown in the pic above, and the adjustment wheel is a little hard to see at first (dark and covered in dirt.) I'm going to hit it with some liquid wrench and see if I can't adjust it (didn't want to budge initially.)

Here's a direct shot:

I'm going to bump this thread before I break out the BFH. I've removed the caliper, and this is what is behind it: Behind the spindle itself: Removing the sensor thingy with a torx bit 30: Side shot: Top View: So I'm pretty lost as to what else I have to loosen to remove the rear rotor. Do I just pry like hell on the rear of the rotor (rubber type material towards the inside of the vehicle)? Are there other bolts to remove first? Thanks in advance....

My guess is that the guy bbf2350 works for Ford - he's just WAY too helpful and always quote FoMoCo specs/literature. He's a regular on other model Ford forums as well (Fusions at least). I like having him around!

Car companies have been playing with timing/octane for years. I had a 2003 Honda Accord V6 6speed manual - basically an Acura in Honda clothes. The engineers from Honda explained that it did indeed have "octane sensors" (possibly just knock sensors), and with premium fuel you got a 10hp bump. I have no doubt this is what Ford has done 9 years later... http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/reviews/2002-08-01-accord_x.htm?AID=4992781&PID=4178165&SID=1397kzv3wmdp1

Just wanted to bump this thread. Our son finally arrived and we realized that even a rear-facing carseat base (at least ours) cannot be safely secured to the center position. I'm 200 lbs and couldn't get the belt tight enough there due to the latch positions. I just moved it over to the passenger side after fighting for 5 minutes...

If a car has a dirty carfax, a lot of dealers won't touch the car. Kills the value and turns off way too many customers, even if no frame damage is reported. I know this from trying to sell my gf's nice Lexus is250 with a single accident reported...

I'm currently going through this exact issue. I bought a brand new 2011 Fusion and was hit the 2nd day I had it (middle of 5-car pileup). My advice to you: First thing - Work with the other driver's insurance to get it into a different shop and get it fixed correctly. This applies even if you don't plan to keep it after. You need the vehicle to be worth as much as possible. You also want the other insurance company to work with you as much as possible, and once you hire a lawyer things slow to a crawl because they cannot talk directly with you. Meanwhile, you can use an online diminished value site to find out what they estimate your diminished value is. My guess is around $3k IF IT'S REPAIRED. This will give you a bottom line amount you are entitled to, but will more than likely not be sufficient. Go to other dealers in the area and get a written estimate of the trade-in value. If they're cool, and understand they may get another sale out of this, they'll give you written estimates of trade-in value with and without the accident history. This will be around $10k is my guess. Finally, you can put together this package and talk to a lawyer. They'll let you know how you sit, and will most likely type up a demand letter for you and take 1/3 of the settlement. My mistake was not getting the car repaired correctly the first time. Depending on how this goes, you might be better off purchasing a demand letter along with your online assessment (I used dvassess.com) and cutting the shark out of the equation. These things will almost never go to court... Good luck!

I also bought one of these because of this post, but for my Fusion. One thing to consider is that the bag it came with sort of fell apart on me after ~1 month. I've just resigned myself to not using it anymore. Otherwise, the shade is great!

I'm sure the HP ratings are fairly accurate from Ford, but obviously each engine varies +/-. I still think you could do a quick 0-60mph sprint with someone timing you, then test drive a new one and do the same thing on the same road. If yours is faster, then it's probably the dyno. At the end of the day, the only measure of performance is track time...

I'm not familiar with the Sport engines, but it seems that nowadays CAI and exhaust are not guaranteed power adders. In some cases, you can actually lose power. It would have been nice to dyno the car stock first. What elevation are you at? Up here we're a mile high, so for NA engines you lose an additional 20%. AWD dynos are probably used to dealing with turbo cars, which lose less hp at altitude (comparatively speaking). That would put your 185hp up around 235hp corrected for SAE...

Go to the dealership and test drive another Sport to see if it has more power stock?

^And also make sure they don't charge ANY dealer markup BS packages (windshield/tire protection packages, etc.) Also, make sure that they give you an Out-The-Door Price total. They are not allowed to charge you any more than $100 in documentation/processing fees. Tax/title/license is inevitable usually (with financing). So your OTD price Should be X-Plan - Rebates +$100 + TTL

Yeah I had the x plan price configured for the car I was buying on my droid in the dealership just to make sure they didn't lie. Somehow their price was a little lower so I didn't complain...

Beware the doc fees and dealer markups! I just bought a Fusion with X-plan. Find out what your X-plan price is before you go in (for the options/trim you want), and know that your worst possible deal should equate to: Out the door price = X-Plan price - Rebates/Incentives +$100 document prep fee (max) +TTL (varies by state, but is only the DMV tax and fees) They tried to stick me with $1400 in dealer-added warranty for glass/tire protection BS. He said it was already paid for and they couldn't drop it. I told him that was a deal-breaker and thanked him for his time, getting up to leave. He backpedaled and dropped the stupid markup REAL quick. And I still got the stupid tire protection/windshield warranty! First thing to ask the dealer is if there are any other promotions. I had to specifically request the free oil changes which were advertised on TV to get them. They played stupid until I spelled it out for them. Stealerships. Hate 'em.