NatG

It's interesting: I just started to have my CEL come on, and I had a reading on the code and it was for the EVAP system (specifically P0456). There are several codes for the EVAP system, and while some indicate it can be a fuel "cap" issue (capless fuel system on newer Edges), the P0456 seems to be one code that indates the fuel cap is not the issue (read this link: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0456) So, I popped open my Haynes (Page 6-22) manual and found some images that help locate the EVAP system. For me, the connections on the bottom of the car have a protective cover. This cover was damaged on my car (likely a result of parking in some of the snow we had here in NJ), and I was able to find my problem. I know you posted this some months back, and you may have found a resolution, but I figured you would still like a response (and possible course of action). I couldn't upload the image to this site, so I am linking ot the image on a free hosting site. Hopefully it sticks around.

Had the Edge garaged for a bit. Just getting around to getting the window guy. $265 plus tax for the repair (including part).

I appreciate the feedback, guys. @WWWPerfA_ZN0W: That was my though at one point. It would make the most sense given the circumstances. @omar302: I had a friend who claimed that the a window in his Accord blew out because of the heat in the car generating pressure against the glass. I thought it was rediculous, just for the reason you outlined (it's much warmer in other parts of the world). But I do think the heat is making the crack worse, as the crack spread another inch when the car was just sitting. @akirby: Yeah, $300 was what I was expecting. My deductable is less: it is something to consider to have my provider cover it.

So the car is a 2011 Ford Edge Limited, Bordeaux Red, black leather. I've been lucky when it comes to windows in cars: I've had chips in windshields, but I have never had any damage to the door windows. I come out of a meeting for my job, and there it is: cracked window. There's no sign of impact on the door, and the glass feels smooth. So as far as I know, there's no impact to the window itself. The crack starts from under the door sill and goes halfway up the window. The crack has become marginally worse since discovery. It's been hot here in NJ, and I can only guess that it's the pressure from the car's interior heating up. I normally do not, but I have the windows cracked to allow the pressure to dissipate. So my questions to the form are as follows: 1) Any idea what the cause might be? Is it possible that the pressure from the heat in the car cracked it? 2) Do I have to worry about the window shattering while driving (or in general)? 3) What should I do until I can get it repaired? (I have already put blue masking tape on the window over the crack). 4) Any estimate on cost to repair from a shop? Thanks guys!

From my experience, it's best to go by the tire. I have the Michelons on my Edge. MAX cold PSI is 44. So When they are cold, I fill between 38 and 40 PSI. I find the shape of the tire is best at this rating, it sits nicely on the ground, and the ride is better than lower pressures. I do not drive super aggressively, and I have about 37,000 on the car with a pretty generous amount of tread left (original tires). Make sure to Rotate regularly.

I ran a few tanks with higher octane. Some improvement in engine response: nothing really worthy of keeping up with premium gas, but it's there. Mileage, on the other hand, didn't seem any better. Seemed to go down a bit, but that might have had to do with giving the car more gas to feel the difference.

Great looking car. Good luck with the new ride!

Wow, that's cheap. May order this today. Thanks Dingo!

I would think maybe the PTU in the AWD system. Does the sound go away at a particular speed?

Nice with the brakes, Dingo... ...I'm jealous of your no-prop hood.

I'm not taking sides with the SHO versus Mustang here. The Mustang is a lighter sports car designed for speed, where as the Taurus SHO starts as a family sedan and becomes a straight-line-fast Sedan. However, with a decent tune, I'd bet you can close that horsepower gap quickly and have a stronger motor than the 5.0 hands down. And a tune that would probably cost less than $1000 at that. But power to weight is the key, that Mustang will go faster with less power. Period. I like the SHO, ALOT, my friend has one and it's fun for its size. But even the Charger Hemi ties the SHO when both are stock, and those are both full size sedans with AWD (available in the Charge, standard on SHO). Throw a V8 with Similar power in a smaller car and you're leaving the SHO in the rear-view mirror. And the warranty is a valid point, KingMike.

I'm with Brock. My brother's car was totalled and it never reflected that in Carfax. And when I say totalled, I don't mean "too much damaged to justify repair costs" (which I am sure is true), the car was a wreck. Then my friend's car was destroyed in flooding, for giggles we looked it up: NOTHING noting the water damage, and the car has a new owner. Buyer Beware. If you buy used, take it to a trusted body shop.

2200 mile roud?! Hope you got a coffee maker in that Edge.

I found with my 2011 Edge, if I leave the car running, get out, and get about 10 feet away, I can press the lock button on the fob and it will lock the doors. Sorry if that's not relevant to your resolution, but it seems related.

Yeah, I have the Michelin's on mine. Great tire. Works great in the weather, too.