dr.edge

Since the AdvanceTrac system is concerned with stabilizing the car as it rolls down the road, I'd say it's unrelated to the air filter replacement. It gets it's inputs from the ABS sensors so you might have bumped something or loosened a connector, but if it goes away and stays off, you're OK The rattle sounds like the engine knocking. If you made a big enough change in air flow, it might be having difficulty adjusting mixture or timing to compensate.Switch back to the OEM filter to see if it goes away.

DrColorChip sells a pretty good kit for $40 - $60 depending on how much you need to do. Pretty good results with it.

Well one thing's for certain, one way or the other, we'll get to see what happens in a couple of months.

The OEM mounting points are not threaded, just drilled, so you can just use an appropriate screw to mount the straps. I think I posted this elsewhere, but here's another easy way to mount the ballasts. Drill a hole through the top and bottom flanges of the OEM HID mount and slip a cable tie through it. Position the ballast and tighten the cable tie around it.

Careful, that's what happened the last time and it ended with you getting your hip replaced.

I would agree that they're not likely to delay the production schedule of the 2013's which means that if they stick to their announcement that the 2013's will have the new software, then they are going to push the first release of the re-write out the door in whatever shape it's in - known bugs and all. Hopefully in that case, they'll follow it up with a series of quick releases targeted at resolving those bugs, as well as consistent communication to the affected users about what's happening. If they hadn't announced that it would be out with the 2013's then I would agree that they would do everything in their power to delay the release until it was right but now they're stuck. Which puts them in a position where they're likely to repeat the same mistakes they made before. Having a bug free, fully tested, re-write by April 15th would be nice, but based on how they've handled the whole issue up until now, I'm not so sure.

Well, there are 3 possible outcomes - the 2013's are released on schedule with the fully functional, new and improved MFT re-write the 2013's are released on schedule with the current version of MFT (2.11) the 2013's scheduled release is postponed in order to accommodate a delay in the release of the re-write to accommodate some last minute bug fixes. What do you honestly think will happen.

Yes, it's a mix of experiences - good and bad. But why would Ford invest the millions they have into a complete re-write of the system if there weren't significantly more people having a negative experience than those that are OK with it? You keep making it sound like it's a balanced situation, and it's not. Ford's actions prove it.

However there are much larger number that are frustrated with the overall performance and poor software design. As you say, hopefully this won't be an issue after the upgrade but until then, it's unresolved.

No problem with the LED bars being too bright at night. They're crisp and bright but certainly not enough to cause a problem with oncoming drivers. With the diffuser bar still in pace, the light is spread out quite a bit so I wouldn't worry about dimming them at night. What I mostly like about them at night is that they match the color temperature of my HIDs (6000K). If I have just the stock LED bar lit, they almost look a sickly yellow-green color compared to my headlights.

Looking pretty good!

OK, cool! I might just give it a try.

So where do you place it? On top of the dash?

Yes, the Retro-Solutions kit includes everything you need for the installation - lamps, ballasts, wiring harness, control relay. The nice thing is that it fits and it works but if you do have any trouble, their support is quick and responsive. They may be a bit pricier than other options, but I think you get what you pay for.

Unlike a headlight retrofit, you don't actually have to worry about that for this mod. The light assemblies are welded together so warming them up in the oven just allows you to break them apart easier. If I had to do it over again, I might actually just cut them apart with a Dremel tool and a cutoff blade. To glue them back together you just use a good quality epoxy.

Nope. Never worked for me with iPhone 4s and various IOS levels. Looks like only iPhone 4 with IOS 4.2.1 is supported.

And yet somehow it's OK for you to do it? - http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/8960-looking-for-a-2011-edge-questions/page__st__20

It looks like it should work and it has enough capacity to drive the LED strips. The only down side I can see is that you have to adjust the voltage while you measure the output voltage. Not a big deal, just a little cumbersome vs. a selector switch.

The vendor you're buying them from should be able to tell you if they fit your application or not.

You could try something like these - http://store.ijdmtoy...back-drl-7h.htm or http://store.ijdmtoy...back-drl-7j.htm (except these look like they're out of stock now). I'd guess that those are 2W LED elements (8W and 12 W total output) vs 1W LED elements that are more commonly used so maybe twice the output?

The LED bars that I used are these which have the LED elements mounted in such a way that they're facing directly forward. That may make some difference but maybe you're expecting to get more output out of them than they're capable of? Maybe a higher power kit would work better?

Yes, beam patterns and cutoff are fine. If they aren't then you might not have the bulb seated correctly (even with a mirror it took me a couple of tries the first time).

They have some other ones available that should work just as well. Just look around on the site and get something similar. There wasn't anything special about the one I used, it was maybe a few dollars cheaper.

I was able to get mine to fit without trimming the tabs although I needed to use an inspection mirror to keep checking to see if they were installed correctly. Overall, a huge PITA.

Boosting the voltage will make a big difference. Hard to say how much until you try it but you can crank them up pretty high. The other issue that you've probably seen is that the apparent light output is pretty sensitive to being on-axis i.e. if you're looking straight at them, they pretty bright, if you get off to the side, then they start to drop off. The diffuser bar helps spread the light around but then it doesn't appear to be as bright since you're spreading the same amount of light over a wider area. Another reason to crank up the voltage. If you want that sharp, crystal clear, Audi look, then run without the diffuser bar with the voltage boosted, and make sure that the center-line axis of the strips is oriented with the center-line of the car.