dr.edge

That's how mine works as well. If you touch the shift lever before you get control (by pressing brake pedal and pushing start button) it will shut down but that's the only way I've seen it turn off.

Didn't hurt MY feelings. Just made me want to help even less. As Dingo said, you're assuming that anyone knows, or (after your second post) even cares.

Check out this thread on the forum - http://www.fordedgef...11-limited-diy/, it should show you everything you need to do to rebuild the LED light bars. I did this to mine (I retained the internal diffuser bar) and they definitely look better than the stock parking lights as they're closer in color temperature to the 6000K HIDS I have installed. Plus, I run them as DRL's on a separate DC power supply putting out about 16V.

Try this link and then click on "View Image" to get a parts diagram.

Actually, I would say that it was just the opposite. The issue is primarily that MFT was a poorly written, badly implemented software release that failed to meet a majority of the consumers' expectations. On top of that, Ford's marketing machine continued to churn out the hype around it which was like rubbing salt in an open wound. In my opinion, they deserve all the bad press and any lost sales (current and future) as a result.

Well, regardless of the mileage you're getting, that's still a nice looking Sport!

There's a difference between facts and opinion. To be honest, you seem to state your opinion as fact just as much as anyone.

Same thing here. Looks like it's broken with IE, but OK with Chrome.

Well, one way or the other, you have moisture inside the car that's condensing and then freezing on the inside of the windshield. Make sure that you have the climate controls set to NOT recirculate and the heat turned up (maybe take it off Auto for a while). That should help dry out any residual moisture in the car. The crack repair would only be an issue if you had a lot of moisture on the outside (driving rain, etc.) that was able to use the crack as an ingress point. You would probably see some amount of moisture around that spot. If not, then it's coming from somewhere else. To be honest, my 2001 pickup that I had before I got the Edge would ice up like that all the time in the winter. It just meant that I had to let it warm up to the point where the defrost would start to clear it before I took off. It was probably due to melted snow in the carpet but it would eventually dry out.

The aux input is right beside the USB port. On the screen, it's referred to as the "AV Input"

I know what you mean. They're probably put together the same as the LED parking lights. When I took those apart to install a set of higher power LEDs, I found that they weren't put together with thermoset glue, but were (plastic) welded together. You have to heat them just to the point that the plastic starts to fail and then try to crack them apart as quick as possible. Too much heat and they deform. At least if you ever have to take them apart again it will be a whole lot easier (I'm assuming you'll be gluing them back together).

Nice job. Any trouble getting them opened up or did you just bake them?

Geez, I don't know. I think THIS pretty well sums up the situation (substitute "MFT" for "parrot", Ford dealership on the left, ticked off Edge owner on the right).

I think what you mean that the cost of losing them as customers is more than the cost of the upgrade, and that we agree on. This would seem to put to rest all the assertions that "they didn't have to do this".

Dude, take it down a notch. I actually interpret it the same way and I'll keep "putting" it on them whenever they come out with anything similar again.

That's nice anecdotal evidence, too bad he wouldn't put it in writing and communicate that to his customers. Seems like a missed PR opportunity.

I think you're contradicting yourself in the same post. One minute you say that everything is a business or monetary decision, and the next you say they did it regardless of whether or not it made sense. Which is it? They certainly could have cut their losses by not sending it out to existing customers but my point is that they made a conscious decision not to do that based on the negative financial impact that would have ensued, not because they "love their customers" And since when has any other car maker in history had a tightly integrated software implementation like this that failed so badly? What possible historical parallel could you be drawing?

Let's be clear about something. The reason that Ford is doing this for their existing customers as well as everyone else, is because it would be more costly to do otherwise. It's a business decision pure and simple and to believe otherwise is pretty naive.

Neither do you. I was just expressing an opinion. Feel free to take this offline if you like.

Easy now, no need to attack the other poster. Since Ford has never officially communicated a target date other than 1st quarter 2012 for the release, they may still make it. I think people's hopes were raised when there was an 'unofficial' statement from a dealer (earlier in the thread) that it was going to be released mid-January. I'll believe it when I see it, until then, it's just vapor-ware.

My experience has been similar. I've seen it actually change without switching to a different screen, it just takes a while.

Nope. I'm just happy if streaming audio over Bluetooth works consistently.

I've got the Retro-Solutions kit installed on my 2011 Sport and it was fairly easy to install with the biggest issue to overcome being where to install the ballasts. What I found is that with just a little bit of Dremel tool work, they fit into the recesses molded into the headlight assemblies where the OEM ballasts would normally be mounted. Just follow the instructions and you should be OK.

I tried to order the rear cap a few months back so I'd have it in case I ever wanted to swap out my HID kit and while the part is easy to find in the online catalogs (it's PN 13N168) at the time I tried to order it,it had a price of $0 listed. The dealership couldn't seem to find a way to get around that and I gave up chasing it down after a while. I just checked and now the part is listed online with a price of $200.43. (WTF?) I guess I should have pushed them harder when they were free.