WWWPerfA_ZN0W

At this point, it's probably too difficult to tell what's going on without a full teardown. Anxiously hoping for a positive resolution ...

Could be the air filter, if an aftermarket "performance" type. What oil & filter do you run in the Edge (brand, weight, etc)? High quality oil is essential for a quiet running engine. How often do you change the oil/filter, does the oil look sludgy or just dark at oil change? Plugged cats will show up as lost power, are you seeing that? More likely there are leaks in the exhaust system, whether in the manifolds or in the piping. Those are prone to rusting over time.

Capless fuel filler system, right? It's possible that dirt has builtup in the fuel filler neck area, making the spring slow to return to original position. A careful cleaning may be all that's required, or if it's bad enough, you may need to get the filler neck replaced.

Must be special fuel, I thought 94 was the highest spec in Canada?

Janet, do you know if the dealer reset the Battery Management System when they replaced the battery? That is an essential part of the computer learning to charge the new battery at an appropriate rate. Also, have you had any problems with the shifter recently? mac just posted a video about the SHIFT TO PARK error on his Edge, so that might be worth checking into. Common problem for the 2011+ Edge.

You can always look to Cellbine's posts about plastidippign the wheels. He did have to do some minor touchups from time to time, but overall held up very well. As Nick also stated, don't skimp on the number of coats applied. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11507-how-to-plasti-dip-your-rims-video-tutorial/

Very nice work!

Headlamp high beam. 9005LL 55W Headlamp low beam. H11LL 55W High-intensity discharge headlamps. D3S HID Taken from pg 276 of owner's manual.

Def not. Had I owned my Edge from the beginning, the most it would have seen would be 60K intervals for trans (and PTU/RDU and steering) fluid changes (being mixed city/highway), 30K for brake fluid. Not quite sure on the coolant, but surely no longer than in the book, most likely 60K as well. Everything erodes internally with time, and fluid changes are relatively cheap insurance against that.

Fluid color looks OK, as Makuloco pointed out about LV spec'd fluid. Particulates are a different "matter". Good note about the valve covers. Also the COPs point in the opposite direction of the 2007-10.

How so? Chemical composition, or rains very heavy, or ...?

I don't know how this would stand up to Hawaiian Heat, but a few folks I know have tinted their sunroofs to tackle that very problem in the southernmost mainland states.

Def good advice, Nick, reading thru the forums you get more & more appreciation for the engineering that goes into these lighting components. It's just not easy to make comparisons between available products, because accurate specs are so hard to obtain. Then you have to be your own testing lab, spend money on parts & equipment, ... I hope the outcome in Hawaii is a positive one. Greatly saddened to hear about the collision. Prayers & best wishes.

Happy anniversary, mac!!! Stay safe.

Nice update to the Edge

The VLED was tested in a Halogen REFLECTOR, and it is certainly not designed for reflectors. I wouldn't put them in the '07 Edge housing for example, maybe in an aftermarket projector housing. They do have a (now discontinued) product for reflector housings that has a tube around the central shaft to disperse light in a similar manner as halogens (no idea what reviews are out there for those), that should work better. If I were in a position to try them out, I would. But yeah, I did like the Philips H11 product example that the retrofitter talked about.

Vled clearly states their highest lumen products are meant for projector housings. We should ask THEM if the intended market was halogen projectors or not, just to verify, since no mainstream nonluxury production vehicle offers LED oem replaceable bulb lighting that I am aware of.

Hey Burke. So sorry to hear about your wife, didn't know this had happened. May she rest in peace, and may you find the strength to persevere.

If the halogen housings are projector style, LEDs will work fine. Look up the vled.com product offerings. Pricey but quality.

1,000% improvement

scrapes off, yup.

Nice documentation, Squeaky! Tho I have to agree with Nick on the cutoff issue ...

Are you in Reverse at the time? Any objects close behind? That would be the reverse park aid sensors. Has anyone pullled codes from the computer to see if there are any clues?

You cut out the juicy parts, mac? Go figure!

There may be a short in the climate control feedback circuits, or you may need to replace the EMTC altogether if airflow is correct but for temperature. Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module and Electronic Manual Temperature Control (EMTC) Module Cold Boot Process The purpose of the cold boot process is to allow the EATC or EMTC module to reinitialize. To carry out the cold boot process, follow the steps below. NOTE: EATC only. Clear the DTCs.Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.Disconnect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.Inspect module connectors for: corrosion. pushed-out connectors. incorrectly seated connector. Wait one minute.Connect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.Select any position except OFF on the EATC or EMTC module.The EATC or EMTC module will now initialize. Climate Control Module — Edge Item Part Number Description 1 W505945 Climate control module screw (4 required) 2 19980 Climate control module 3 78042K50 Climate control module spacer (2 required) Removal and Installation Remove the center instrument panel finish panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-12 .Remove the 4 climate control module screws.Remove the climate control module. NOTE: Be sure the climate control module spacers are correctly positioned before installing the climate control module. To install, reverse the removal procedure.