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WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Everything posted by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

  1. Do you happen to have a part number for that assembly, Scott? TIA.
  2. Definitely try changing the key fob batteries. That should be a simple & inexpensive fix. I think the life is generally what 5 years for these coin cells? So this is about the right time ...
  3. Original key fobs or have you replaced 1 or more? Original Car Battery? Sometimes the PATS will not allow the engine to start, even though it allows it to crank. Try changing out the battery in the fob(s), and/or the car battery if so. From the FSM: PATS is active only for a few seconds when the vehicle is starting. It is not a PATS concern if the vehicle stalls after it has been running for a minimum of 3 seconds. PATS will not disable a running vehicle. PATS may cause a vehicle no start due to either the fuel injectors or the starter not operating (starter relay does not close) or both. Always check for PATS DTCs from the instrument cluster and DTCs from the PCM when a no-crank or no-start condition exists. A low state of charge (SOC) in the vehicle battery may cause the PATS to allow starter operation, but prevent the fuel injectors from operating.
  4. Low battery (car) would definitely cause this issue, as would a low key fob battery. If the locks operate snappily, I would lean towards key fob. If the locks are slow to open/close, then car.
  5. Unfortunately, yes. We thought the problem had been resolved with the 2011+ makeover, but it continues. So far, we have found that regular PTU fluid flushes are the best preventive measure, get the PTU (and RDU) done every couple of years for best effect. That should keep any problems at bay for a long time.
  6. Did you have the Battery Management System reset with this battery, mac? The computer needs to learn every time a new battery is installed, and this does not happen simply by pulling the neg battery cable. Dealers can do the reset, don't know if service shops can too (I guess if they have IDS they can?).
  7. Congratz on getting this done, never get tired of hearing a success story Well written, nice pix to go with.
  8. Welcome to the community, Kazz, great color choice for your new ride! Best of luck, one thing I would suggest is that the PTU be verified to have the correct fluid level (the procedure is in the factory service manual) by the selling dealer or a trusted mechanic. If it looks at all gunky, best to have it changed out.
  9. 2007 FSM: Heater Core — Plugged WARNING: The heater core inlet hose will become too hot to handle if the system is working correctly. Check to see that the engine coolant is at the correct level.Start the engine and turn on the heater.When the engine coolant reaches operating temperature, feel the heater core inlet and outlet hoses to see if they are hot.If the outlet only is not hot: the heater core may have an air pocket. the heater core may be plugged. If the inlet only is not hot: the thermostat may not be working correctly. 2007 Edge_Insufficient Erratic or No Heat Diagnostics.PDF EB engines tend to develop air pockets easily. You may want to raise the passenger side of the Edge on jackstands or a curb with the engine cold/at ambient. That makes the degas bottle a high point. Then run the engine with the heat on max/blower on max until it reaches normal operating temperature. Then put the Edge on level ground, let the engine cool back down and check coolant level again. See if it drops any further than that 1/2 inch you already see. More exact stepbysteps here.
  10. That would mean acknowledgement of an existing problem, I guess! Maybe their contract with the supplier gives them lifetime free replacements
  11. Is the coolant level ok in the overflow/degas bottle? FULL COLD mark met? Coolant looks clean? Are the heater hoses warm/hot? Cabin filter clean/free of debris? Blower motor blowing fine? Those would be the first items on my checklist. After that, it could be the blend door OR the CCM (climate control module) itself.
  12. Sadly, it has been a great source of misery for quite a few. Possibly all for the lack of adequate fluid to lubricate & cool the components.
  13. Very likely it is the PTU (front differential as you say) that is toast. Assuming no other damage, you are looking at about $700 in parts, plus the labor to R&R the unit. Make sure to check the fluid level in the new PTU once installed.
  14. The idea is interesting, but using water, not so sure. No way to spray electronics cleaner in there instead, or simply not enough pressure from the can?
  15. Congrats, sounds like a very attractive combo for the new Edge! Enjoy , and post pics when you can.
  16. Welcome, anile, congrats to you & the wife on the new Edge! Regrets that it was not delivered to you in pristine condition, as that should be part of the new car experience. Hope the dealership fixes all those items for you pronto, and then you will post pics of the actual ride
  17. If you use a low wattage LED, then yes, hyperflashing will likely be an issue. In my case, I used LEDs rated to consume at least 1/2 or more the wattage of the incandescents. True, that generates more light, and if that is not your goal (i.e. keeping lumen output same as OEM is your goal), then adding resistors (made easier with ScotchLoks) is the right way to go. Since I have DTBL tails on the Edge, I didn't have to deal with the brake/turn dilemma. In their case, the resistor is mounted to the plastic housing, so might work with the OEM housing as well. Double-sided tape (rated for hot locations) should be fine. DTBL's is screw mounted to the plastic.
  18. Worked yourself into a corner eh? You gave a good try though ...
  19. Might wanna doublecheck the clamp on the brake booster hose. Good idea to disconnect the battery (30 min or more), then let PCM relearn.
  20. I think the hardest part really was not recognizing all the places things are tethered together with bolts, wiring, & tubing. Moving the EVAP valve helped a bunch with adding room for the brake booster tube & throttle body portion.
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