WWWPerfA_ZN0W

I have done 30,000 in one year for work, but that's my sole claim to fame.

Pics when you can, Brucifer

I think the question should be, "How dependent am I on this vehicle?" If you say "Very", then ask, "Am I able to fix the vehicle myself if something goes wrong? Do I have the spare time to diagnose & repair?" If "No", then an extended warranty is likely for you. But usually, with good preventive maintenance practices, conservative driving habits, and ignoring the "lifetime" marketing blurbs, one can do pretty well without an extended warranty. Always read the maintenance section of the OM, especially what is recommended for SEVERE DUTY schedules.

Great info! Thank you

Welcome to the Edge/MKX community, Southpaul, congrats on the '14 Edge! First Ford? Is this your Daily Driver, do you plan to make any changes to it? Pics would be great

If you are pushing REALLY hard and it doesn't stay beyond the 3 blinks, then you may need to have the switch/lever replaced.

Very nice. Now to get the brightness up!

True.

Here is what the 2007 Edge FSM says:

No, a PATS problem will allow cranking, but will not let the injectors fire.

Need to have the PCM calibration updated. There's a TSB 15-0123 on it in another thread. The only fix we are aware of to date. I'm sure you've seen this thread already: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18716-2015-edge-sport-engine-shut-down-while-driving/

Ok. So we are back to two possibilities from what I can see (from here ). A] The PATS system needs to be cleared out and the keys re-linked, and/or B] the PCM has something going on with it. Assuming of course that the batteries discussed truly check out, and that the ignition switch is 100% working fine. I still say change the batteries in the fobs, just for the heck of it, and see if that makes a difference. The cost is so minimal. EDIT: I have not heard of the PATS transceiver going bad, but that's another thing to keep in mind. Any issues you have noticed with the instrument cluster itself? IF you want to look at the transceiver (#5): Removal and Installation Remove the 3 screws and the lower steering column shroud.Position the upper steering column shroud aside.Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the PATS transceiver. NOTE: Replacement of the PATS transceiver does not require the PATS keys to be programmed into the instrument cluster again. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Look up a mechanic/shop with good survey ratings on yelp/repairpal/etc and let them do the diagnostics, I would say. You can drive yourself crazy with these things if you are not willing to tighten the belt and spend multiple hours at a time working down a diagnostic path.

Simple. Have the TSS and OSS sensors replaced. That will fix the ODO DATA ERROR issue.

Welcome to the forum, scorpionking0102! Good luck in your quest for the 2016 Edge.

If you want to reset the PCM, take off the negative battery cable, leave it off for 30 minutes, then reconnect. The PCM will need some time after that to relearn its' functions. Not sure if it NEEDS to be done after a TSS/OSS job, but definitely won't hurt.

Welcome to the forum, nice mods already

I don't think you'd like my "free tweak" suggestion So I will go with Plastidip instead ...

Want to jazz up that "dead" dead pedal on your 2015+ Edge (thanks, xbillmh!)? Here's how: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19165-diy-8-aluminum-dead-pedal-for-edge-sport/

Cool idea, excellent pics & writeup!

Still cranking at the same speed in the video, though, or has the cranking speed slowed down? G/L, keep us updated.

Looking forward to updates, and good luck!

The blend actuator should be behind the panel cover under the steering wheel. This is how it looks on the 2007: From the 2007 FSM: NOTE: It is not required to install the new LH temperature blend door linkage parts included in the LH temperature blend door actuator service part kit if only the temperature blend door actuator requires replacement and the linkage parts are not broken or binding. LH temperature blend door actuator and linkage Remove the 2 lower steering column opening cover bolts.Detach the lower steering column opening cover.Disconnect the in-vehicle temperature sensor aspirator hose and electrical connector.Position the instrument panel wire harness away from the LH temperature blend door actuator.Remove the 3 LH temperature blend door actuator screws.Disconnect the LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.Remove the LH temperature blend door actuator.Manually operate, and inspect the LH temperature blend door linkage for incorrect placement, binding or damage.LH temperature blend door linkage only Detach the 2 retaining tabs and remove the LH temperature blend door linkage.LH temperature blend door actuator and linkage To install, reverse the removal procedure.

So the only error pointed to an intake sensor? Can you post a list if you have it? Or get a code reader and read the codes/have an auto store read them for you for free. Otherwise it's pure guesswork on our part. A MAF Error code would look like this: P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input Cleaning the throttle body IS important and should be part of the induction service I mentioned. This is what such a service does: It does help smooth things out significantly. Make sure the oil/filter are changed right after (or within 500 miles) the service is done to get out any crud loosened by the service. Afterwards, use a] high quality oil, and b] high quality fuel. A fuel injector cleaner (not just any brand, but Techron or BG for example) in the gas tank at every oil change helps too. Don't want to use the cleaners too often, no sooner than every oil change. I assume the solenoid being referred to is the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) Oil Control Solenoid. An important part of the timing system of the engine. Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) system The VCT system changes intake camshaft timing dependent on engine speed, load and oil temperature. Oil pressure advances and retards camshaft timing to improve low and high speed engine performance, engine idle quality and exhaust emissions. You do have to remove the valve covers to replace the solenoids (1 per bank), and that would be a good time to replace plugs/PCV valve since they'd be fully exposed in the process. Do the valve covers have any leaks? That could be caused by pressurization of the PCV system which could be caused by a sticking PCV valve. Either the Castrol or the Pennzoil you mentioned should work fine, how the engine reacts to each is more important. So if the Edge likes the Pennzoil, stick with that. Objectively, I use the published Product Data Sheets (PDSs) for comparing products, because there are few if any unbiased product comparison tests out there. Amsoil has published a few, but of course, they are in the business of selling the product. Castrol edge w Syntec PDS.pdfPennzoil-Ultra Full Synthetic TDS.pdf http://www.syntheticoilhq.com/comparesyntheticoils.html The NoAck Volatility is one of the important characteristics. The lower the volatility, the less the vapors in the system, the more stable the oil, and the less gunk accumulated in the engine. The key is to base the oil change interval on the FILTER. I hope you are using the Motorcraft filter, it is a very high-quality design. You CAN use the K&N or Mobil 1 full synthetic filters also, I just have no idea how well they would work on the Edge. Use the maintenance schedules in the owner's manual to help you determine the interval (NORMAL for mixed city/highway, or SEVEREDUTY for mostly city/stopngo). 2010 Edge Owner Information 2010 Edge Owner’s Manual Printing 3 (PDF) Scheduled Maintenance Guide Printing 2 (PDF) Warranty Guide Printing 4 (PDF) If anything, if you have replaced the oil/filter regularly and it hasn't tended to become dirty (just darker), I would have the engine oil flushed (such as with BG or AutoRX products), then see if there's still a need for the solenoid replacement. Unless there's a code set in the computer, I can't see the solenoid being "preventive maintenance", but you know what they say about "internet advice" LOL. If I were doing "preventive maintenance" of that type, I'd do the whole shebang: timing chain, timing tensioner, VCT solenoid, water pump, belts, etc. Right now it is probably more important to make sure you have no coolant loss (don't want to have to replace water pump which is behind the timing chain), and that the belts get replaced than have the solenoids replaced.

Welcome to the forum! As long as the catalytic converters are in good shape, you are ahead of the game already. Did the mechanic pull codes from the PCM to see if there might be anything wrong? Many codes do not trip a Check Engine Light. At this mileage, the Edge would benefit from a spark plug and PCV valve change (is DIY-able). Switch to High Mileage oil if available. Clean the MAF sensor (sits in the pipe attached to the air cleaner box) thoroughly with MAF cleaner (not brake cleaner or carb cleaner, etc). Having the ignition system (coil on plugs specifically) checked is also a good idea, don't want a bad PCM frying the coils or vice versa. Not sure what all the shop did, but diagnostics can cost money. The induction services can cost around $150 or so by themselves on the mainland. Hopefully they ran a can of fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank also.