Bobs2015EdgeSport

UPDATE: My local Ford dealer took the pan off a second time, and this time, they actually followed the above bulletin and (a) let the open crankcase drain overnight, then (b) installed yet another oil pan and RTV sealer, and then (c) let it sit and cure for 24 hours before refilling it with new oil. (Total time in shop this second time around: 5 full days). As I've only driven it home (10 miles Tops) and then parked it (over a week ago now), I don't know if this is going to work or not. However, a follow-up "customer service survey" discussion with their service manager yielded no real hope of a future (and more permanent) fix for the problem! He said that, while Ford is obviously aware of the extent of the problem, he "doubted" that they were really working on a more permanent solution to it, and couldn't even begin to offer an explanation as to why Ford would not make this a priority to get resolved. In the meantime, my Extended Service Plan will likely continue to cost them the big bucks, at least until I might decide to trade it in on something that doesn't have the same engine in it!

jmr061... by any chance do you happen to have the TSB number (or other reference number) that Ford has associated/assigned to the statement that you first shared above? I was going through my AllData database, and cannot find this one in their TSB listing for my 2015 Sport. IF it applies to my vehicle, I wanted to print it out and take it in to the dealership next week... along with the actual TSB number, for their reference. Thanks!

Actually, you do make a point, as I have seen plastic valve covers on top of engines and they seem to do OK... so why not these? I do think that you're right, in that there are "so many questions" that apparently are still unanswered!

After only 18,000 miles on my 2015 Edge 2.7 Sport (all that time with a perfectly dry engine), my oil pan suddenly started to leak all over.... and only 3 months after my original warranty had expired! (Fortunately, I have a Ford ESP service contract, so they get to pay for everything going forward). Anyway, the dealer had it for 3 days, and followed the Ford repair manual to the letter; yet I just discovered only 3 days after having it back that it has once again started leaking again, this time from the area of one of the pan bolts (yes, it is tight)! I suspect that they were unaware of the "wait-time" recommendation given above here (but I will make it known to them)! You can imagine my frustration, since this is my only daily driver. My stepson is a Ford mechanic, and he says that the problem is that they're putting a plastic oil pan up against a metal alloy engine block, which results in different expansion and contraction rates, thereby causing the problem to reoccure over and over. He says that, until Ford wises-up and replaces it with an all-metal replacement part, we can all expect the issue to continue. I believe he is correct, as my previous Ford (a 2011 Escape) had a similar-looking oil pan on the engine in that car, but it was actually made out of cast aluminum, not plastic, and it NEVER had a single leak in the 4 years that I had it. I never imagined when I picked it up the other day, that I would now waiting for a callback from my Ford service writer, to make yet another appointment to have them take yet another look at their work... especially since this car has been great (and trouble-free) up until now!

They're original 20" alloy OEM rims from Ford, in black powdercoat finish...

I currently have a similar problem going on... Before, my 2015 Sport FWD would run dead-smooth, up to 100 mph... but then, I put together a set of winter tires, and there was soon a very subtle "shaking" around 50 to 55 mph (that would go away at 60+ mph. No feeling of shaking under 50 nor over 60... just within that 50-60 range. So, I had the winter tires and rims checked again for balance and no issues there. So, to prove to myself that it was indeed the steel rims and tires, I put my original 20" allow wheels back on... but now, the subtle "shaking" is still there (even though it was NOT present before trying on the winter set)! So, this is kinda leading me to think that it is something else that just conincidentally happened to start around the time I first changed-out the rims and tires... and now it continues where it was not present before (and does it while trying two different sets of wheels & tires). As I only have just under 19K miles on the thing, I am at a loss as to what the cause might be. I am always very easy on using the brakes, so there is no apparent issue (no pulsating at the pedal) with warping the rotors. Checking all four hubs show that they are smooth and quiet. My latest thought was if maybe one of the drive axles (front CV joints) might somehow now be out of balance (although they still look brand-new)? Otherwise, I am so far at a loss...

If anybody is interested, I WAS able to replace a stud on the front AND the back hubs, without doing anything more than temporarily moving the caliper assemblies aside, and rotating the hubs to a particular position... to a spot where Ford had actually put a little dimple in the hub area, to just barely give you enough room to pop-out the old one (a hammer removed the old one), and then I used open-ended "sacrificial" lug-nuts to pull and seat the new studs all the way into position. Pretty easy-peasey!

I was wondering if anybody has tried (successfully) to remove and replace a cross-threaded wheel stud on a 2015 Edge Sport... whether on the front or the rear... without completely disassembling the brakes and the hub parts, as instructed in the Alldata DIY information? I have a stud slightly cross-threaded on both the front and the rear, and rather than trying to rethread them, I would rather just insert brand new ones in their places... but without all the MAJOR disassembly steps that seem to be required in my Alldata research! I once successfully did this replacement on a '67 Camaro (with drum brakes) years ago, as there was just enough room to push a new stud back in from the rear... so I was hoping that the same potential for an "easier" way to replace one on my Edge was also possible. Has anybody had to do this on their 2015-forward Edge, and if so, could you do it without doing all the ridiculous (and major) disassembly? Thanks!

I actually found a place within 45 minutes of my home, that does custom redrilling of ALLOY wheels, to the extreme! However, when I told him my wheels were actually steel wheels, he refused to take on the job, saying that he couldn't duplicate the "chamfered" (beveled) edges around where the new holes would be, and it would somehow weaken the whole rim. I found this odd, since I was examples of his work online, and some of his alloy-wheel work had holes all over the place, including the 60-degree beveled edges... far extensive work than I was asking him to consider doing. I just think he didn't want to deal with a steel wheel, that's all...

I have a set of wheels that I want to use on my 2015 Sport, that use a 5x4-1/2" (5 x 114.3mm) hole pattern... but for some unknown reason, Ford decided to change the previous model years' hole pattern going into the 2015 model year, to instead use a 5x4-1/4" (5 x 108mm) pattern! While I could use an adapter, doing so would move the wheel assembly out an extra (and unnecessary) inch, which I would like to avoid if at all possible. I therefore started wondering if if might be easier to just replace my hubs with a set of hubs from the 2014 model year... IF that is at all possible? IF there are no other changes in the front and rear hubs (other than the change in wheel hole pattern), it would convert my hubs to 5 x 4-1/2" wheels, without any further modifications. Has anybody ever tried that yet, or know if the hubs are otherwise interchangeable? If not, another alternative would be to have the existing hubs redrilled with a second set of holes, using the older pattern, and putting in new studs of course. I just don't know who might do that kind of work. Does anybody have any experience in this kind of modification?

It's a 2015 Edge Sport. Here are my notes on the programming changes I made, for this one feature-change: BdyCM Module: “POWER-POINT TIMEOUT LIMITS” Feature: Changes time limit on how long the Power Point sockets remain “hot” “As Built” (Original programming string): 726-39-01 1194 0101 000E (Default time: 1 Hour, 15 Mins) Programming string CHANGED as follows: 726-39-01 0001 0101 006A (Changed to turn off immediately, with ignition turn-off) (NOTE that the last two digits in each of the changed strings in these examples above were automatically changed by the system during the “Write” process… not by me. Such as, the “72” changed by itself to “70”; the “70” changed to “72”, etc… as well as that the “000E” in the Power-Point string changed by itself to “006A”. These seemed to be some sort of automatic requirement inputted by the system or software, after I made the initial change. All I know is that, in the end, all of the changes worked, and my power points now shut-off immediately.

For my dashcam, I ran my wiring down inside the A-pillar, and then over to the center console, where I tapped into the 12-volt power outlet that is visible on the passenger side of the console. Under the original "as built" software settings, that power outlet would stay "hot" for up to an hour after exiting the vehicle (thereby leaving my dashcam continuing to record needlessly), but I then used ForScan to change the settings on my power outlets to turn-off immediately, as you turn off the ignition, and it's worked great ever since!

No problem! To add the "Average Speed" display function into your Fuel/Trip menu, here are the default settings that I found, and then what I did to add this function into the menu choices: IPC Module: As Built: 720-01-01 0C26 1064 7645 (Default / NO "Average Speed" display visible in the menu) Changed to: 720-01-01 0C26 1464 7649 (Now allows this function to be visible in the menu) NOTE that I only actually changed the "0" to a "4" (in the second field)... but then discovered that the system had automatically changed the "5" to a "9" in the last field, just after I had saved the changes (via the "Write" button)! I've had this happen on a couple of other programming changes I've made as well. Anyway, good luck with your own changes!

As "Ben" did above, I, too, have also been able to disable that annoying/startling double honk, using the 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth unit and the FORScan extended-license software (as he suggested). I was also able to make it impossible to shift the car into Drive while left running and unattended (unless the key fob is back in the car), which seems like a basic, "should-have-been-the-default" choice. (As a fire dept. volunteer, this is ideal for me when I need to leave my car and lights operating out on a roadway, at a fire scene). A feature like this could also be something that might help thwart carjackings, I guess. Another feature I was able to change were the Power Point settings, to now turn-off with the ignition (my dashcam is permanently wired-in to a PowerPoint circuit, and would continue running for 1-1/4 hours after the car was parked... it now turns off when the ignition is turned off, thus saving unnecessary drain on the battery). I was also easily able to add the "Average Speed" display to now show-up as you toggle through the Fuel menu (something that was never originally activated "as built", for some reason). I also experimented with enabling the "Dark Mode" (which is used on police vehicles to disable internal courtesy lights, and external parking and tailight flashing during entry/exit). While I was able to get this mode to work, I decided against using it, as I like having a few seconds of interior lights when first getting in, in the dark. I guess the bottom line is that, while you must be careful in what you mess with, there do seem to be many hidden options and features that, for whatever reason, are not readily changeable without some minor equipment (and the brains to go along with it).

I'm in Livermore... and, I haven't had to take my car into Livermore Ford for any warranty work (so far); I do my own oil changes.

As far as pouring oil all over the engine and engine compartment... there is simply NO excuse for that to happen, or especially, for the car to be returned to the customer in that condition! I don't know how a place like that can remain in business! I surely would have taken it back to the manager and given him hell for it... but also probably would never have it done there (or any other real "repairs") again!

Your photos of each step of the oil change process were much appreciated (I used them when I did my very first change on my Sport)... however, I think you ended-up with the "mess" (oil) all over because of the way your oil pan was designed, and for no other reason. The "target area" of your oil pan (the yellow area) is far too FLAT, for anything but a mess to happen. I know this because, many years ago (in the 1980's), I tried using a similar pan, and had similar (as in, messy) results. Hot oil will bounce/splash right off of that flat surface, instead of going where it's supposed to, simply because of the physics of it all. Since the '80's, I've used a large oil pan that is about 6" deep... and never spill a drop... even when changing the oil on my Sport. So, my advice to you, would be to get rid of that pan as soon as you can... and find a deep, "open"-style pan, and your messes will be a thing of the past.

As soon as I had put 5K miles on my 2015 Sport, I drained and refilled it with Mobil-1 5w-30 Fully-Synthetic motor oil (which is approved by Ford), and have been changing it (along with the filter cartridge) every 3,000 miles after that! Call me "old school", because I still change my oil every 3K miles... but when it already comes out dark and dirty at 3K... why would I want to leave it in there for a longer period of time? I'd rather this car ran on much cleaner oil all the time, then much dirtier oil!

Look at the spacing in the two photos... there is a lot of space shown, between the fender lip and the rear tire, in the "before" photo... (making the wheel/tire assemblies look like they're too small for the car?)... versus the "after" photo, in which that space is now gone. The spring change-out has clearly lowered the vehicle substantially, IMHO.

The problem with Akirby's suggestion (that is, to "leave the door open") is not always safe or practical. In my case, I want to be able to park the car in front of the mailbox cluster at the entrance to my gated community, leaving the car running as I hop out and grab the mail, then hopping back in. Leaving the door open is not a safe option for me, due to other cars coming in to the entrance, and driving around my parked vehicle. Instead, when I close the door behind me, I get a double BLAST of the horn (at full volume... enough to give you a heart attack!)... for having done so. My wife's late-model Lexus give you three truly low-volume electronic CHIRPS as you walk away from her running car... a nice, friendly alternative... as opposed to jumping out of your skin, when the Edge's horn blares at you at full volume!

I can tell you that the Edge is probably the most installation-resistant vehicle I've ever owned, in my 20 years of belonging to a fire dept support group, as well as being an Amateur Radio operator! I currently have 2 two-way radios installed in my 2015 Sport, as well as an interior-mounted rear light bar, and it took me days to figure-out not only how to mount anything in this vehicle, but more importantly... how to run the wiring (especially from the rear compartment up to under the hood, to directly access the battery! Unlike an Interceptor Utility, there are no really usable wiring channels provided, and getting through the firewall was simply impossible. Mounting an antenna on the mostly-glass roof also forced me to get creative, instead using one of the plastic panels near the rear edge, while also concealing a metal groundplane underneath the panel, for the antenna to work properly. As far as mounting the two radio control heads in an easy-to-access position, I finally resolved that problem by obtaining a mobile laptop mount intended for the Interceptor (which also happens to be an exact fit for the front passenger seat on the Edge)... and then modifying it to mount radio control heads, instead of a laptop. I can only say that, IF any agency were ever to seriously consider using an Edge (such as the Sport, with its increased horsepower and torque) for patrol service, they'd better first consider the difficulties in mounting emergency equipment and wiring runs... as the practical challenges are daunting!

I purchased this online manual for my 2015 Sport, and was blown-away by how comprehensive it is! Plus, since it is a download, you can save a copy to your computer, like I did, for easy referencing. You'll need to submit your VIN number as part of the purchase, so that you're sure to get the proper manual for your specific vehicle. I don't think you can go wrong on this, as it appears to be the same manual resource that Ford provides to their dealerships (my stepson is a Ford mechanic and concurs with my conclusion).

While I would love to get rid of my crappy mini-spare, and replace it with another matching 20" full-size rim and tire, I don't believe it will even drop down into the wheel well opening, as it is far wider than the mini-spare. For sure, though, IF you could even fit the tire into the well, the full-size tire would probably stick up about 2-3 inches above the existing flat storage area in the rear. Unless you removed the rigid cover, and added "side" underneath it, to support it sitting over the thicker tire, it wouldn't be practical. This entire situation, however, reminds me of an option I had on my 1995 Ford Taurus SE... it of course originally came with a tiny mini-spare, so the cargo area cover was just a heavy flat piece that dropped into place to hide the spare... kind of like what comes on the late-model Edges. However, my wanting to convert the Taurus to a full-size spare at the time was easily do-able... because Ford also offered a replacement molded cargo area floor cover that had a matching 2"-deep convex depression MOLDED-IN to the replacement cover... which allowed you to optionally use a full-size spare, but to also have a factory-made optional cover to go over the thing, while still providing a factory-matched replacement floor. Now, when you looked at the thing, it had a raised circular area in the center of the carpeted cover, to accomodate the thicker tire sitting underneath it. But, other than that, it was still a very good idea, and solid as a rock. So, all I can say is that I wish Ford would also offer an optional raised floor cover for the 2014-2016 Edges... like they did with the earlier Tauruses... thereby allowing you to at least try to make the conversion to a full-size spare...

Thanks for the hint regarding it possibly be a programmable limit (for keeping the power outlets hot), but I am unable to find anything in my owner's manual that even talks about power outlet time limits... much less a way to change them. Has anyone else ever seen this as a programmable feature, on the later-model Edges? Also, as far as running a hot lead from the battery all the way back to the rear... I did not run it UNDER the car, but rather through all of the hidden wiring channels that run alongside the inside of the edge of the carpet (where the carpeting meets the doors)... but, once I got it up to the driver's side door area, there is absolutely no way to continue it up and through the firewall safely... so I had to drill a hole through the channel at that point, and then run it down under the car (for about 6 inches), then up between the plastic fender liner and over, then fish it through so that it came out just to the right of the battery! Now, to be honest, I've probably done over a hundred radio and lighting installs for my volunteer fire dept. support group... and I've NEVER run into a vehicle that has given me virtually NO OPTIONS for safely running power, lighting and radio cables... like this car has! I don't know why it's built like a tank and you cannot find spots to run wires through... but it is (at least, that was my experience).

Hey akirby: Just a heads-up that that power outlet in the rear actually SHUTS OFF after the engine is stopped, after a preset amount of time (as do all the other outlets in the car), depending on the power drain it sees at the outlet, after the car is shut down! This is because Ford, in all their infinite wisdom, decided that they wanted to build-in a "power saver" feature, so that leaving things like your laptop plugged-in would not drain the battery overnight... but that you could at least leave your cellphone charging for about 10 minutes before shut-down. I found this out by doing some testing on my own 2015 Sport... I wanted to be able to plug-in a small amber revolving light, for my volunteer work at fire scenes. The light draws a bit of power, what with its halogen bulb and motor. I first discovered that, once I shut-off the car, the light would run for another 20 seconds and then suddenly turn-off. The only way to bring it back on was to start the car again; then the process would repeat itself. This was obviously not a good option for me, that is, to have to leave my car running unattended while doing my fire scene work. I then tried just leaving something plugged-in that draws very low power, such as my cellphone charger, and it would at least remain on for a few minutes. I think it was about 10 minutes, the same as when you leave your car radio on and it eventually shuts-off after about 10 minutes. The power module in the car monitors this and controls them all. Now, getting back to using the rear outlet for a power source to run your trailer light module... the installation instructions even tell you up front to not use that kind of power source, but instead, to run a hot lead all the way up to the car's battery up front. Now you know why, or at least, what might be a contributing factor to your suddenly not having anything work back there. In my case, I had already run a very heavy hot wire, directly from the battery to my two-way radio that is mounted in the spare tire compartment. (NOTE: To run this wire from front to rear was in and of itself a VERY difficult and time-consuming job, as these cars have NO easy way to get any wiring up into the engine compartment safely... but all that is another nightmarish story)! So, I disassembled the left rear panel and removed the stock wiring from the power outlet, and instead, wired it to my pre-installed hot lead from the car's battery, thereby removing it from the shut-down feature of the car's power module, and voila... the outlet is hot all the time. I then also connected my power lead from the trailer wiring harness module to this same always-hot power lead, and that solved my "no trailer lights" problem for good! And, yes, I did have to get a different version of the trailer wiring kit from Curt, but it's been almost a year now and my trailer lights are still working just fine. Good luck with your installation... it was a tough one for me as well, but worth it!