Bobs2015EdgeSport

Hi omar302, I didn't mean to imply that nothing will ever work without a software upgrade; only that it is something that should possibly be looked-into, before investing in the necessary hardware pieces, at least to be safe. Based on my own experiences noted in my post (and a few more not shared), I've learned that the cars of today are no longer as simple as we wish they could be. I once wanted to make some lighting upgrades in my Escape, only to find that the lights involved apparently were controlled by a "Lighting Module", and there was no way to effectively get into that module to make it do what I wanted it to do. Frustrating, for sure. I certainly hope that the gentlemen asking about this has great luck in his adding those paddles; you definitely have more knowledge in that area than I do. Thanks for sharing your expertise!

Why did I get an Edge? Because my wife was given a basic Ford Edge as a rental car (while her Lexus was being repaired), and we both fell in love with it immediately!

I ran into this very same perplexing problem, when I first got my 2015... that is, will they stay on or not? Here is what I determined: IF you're simply running a very low current draw item (like a cellphone charger adapter, or in my case, a dashcam), my outlets seem to stay "hot" for hours, even overnight. BUT, when I plug-in my magnetic revolving rooftop light (I do some fire dept. volunteer work), it was turned-off (by the car) within 10 seconds of turning-off the ignition. Obviously, while parked hazardously at a fire scene, that would never do... so, because I have a two-way radio that runs off of a heavy wire run directly from the car's battery, I disconnected the power port in the rear of the car and rewired it directly to my non-standard heavy battery lead in the rear. Now, that power port is "hot" all the time, being fed directly from the battery, so I can run my magnetic roof light (and anything else) for as long as I need to!

I had a 2011 Ford Escape (prior to my new Edge) that did not have Daytime Running Lights... so I found a kit made for Mustangs that worked very well on the Escape, using the park/turn signal lamps as running lights! The only problem is that it was made for the older-style incandescent bulbs, not the newer LED's. Perhaps an internet search for "LED Running Light Module" might turn-up something that could work for you?

I, too, hated the Lane Keeping Feature on my 2015, but eventually figured-out that it is a simple tiny toggle switch on the end of the wiper stalk that makes it go away... I never use it anymore.

Wow, that looks EXACTLY like my own 2015 Edge Sport! I'm sure you'll love yours as much as I love mine! Congrats!

As far as just changing (or adding to) the hardware on the steering column, I have found that, in today's cars, they're so controlled by either the computer or one of it's sub-controllers, that adding hardware features also typically require that there be changes made in the software. This kind of thing started a few years ago with Ford. For example, I had a 2009 Crown Victoria, but it never came with cruise control. So, I simply bought a matching cruise-control-equipped steering wheel on eBay, then swapped it out. Seems simple enough, right? Nope... I then had to pay the dealer $140 to go into my computer's programming to "enable" the cruise control feature IN THE SOFTWARE, before it would recognize the new steering wheel controls and allow them to talk to the system and function properly. Another example... when I bought my 2011 Escape, it did not come with Daytime Running Lights... a safety feature I really wanted. When I bought the vehicle, the salesman told me he "thought" the feature could be turned-on in software (again, that dang software issue!). So, I brought the car back and their techs had it on their scanner/programmer for an hour, only to come back and tell me that my programming didn't support that feature... as "only the Canadian vehicles software has that ability to be turned on and off". So, just be aware of how software-driven our newer Fords are, as unless it came from the factory with certain features, you may find it nearly impossible to add a feature later on... even if you have the hardware-based components that you thought was all you needed.

OK, I've changed my mind again (about using the black Interceptor wheels on my Edge)... only because I've now found a nice new set of black-powdercoated OEM alloy wheels that are a factory match to my vehicle... thereby eliminating any worries about using adapters, offset mismatches, etc. These babies should certainly "complete" the stealthy solution I was hunting for. I have an appointment tomorrow, to have them swapped-out with my original 20" OEM rims. Will post pics after all is said and done, assuming everything goes to plan!

I've confirmed that my 2015 Sport does indeed have the 5 x 4-1/4" (108mm) bolt pattern, thereby making it difficult to use the black steel wheel off of the Taurus SHO / Explorer Interceptor that I wanted to use, since the steelie uses a 5 x 4-1/2" (114.3mm) bolt pattern. However, I decided to order a used Interceptor steel wheel, along with one of those 108mm-to-114.3mm adaptors, just to see how it will look and fit. I think my problem may be that the steelies will stick out about an inch and a half (or slightly more) farther than the stock alloy rims, due to differences in the offset between the two, plus the additional 1" thickness of the required adapter. I really want to see if this might work or not, however. I did a similar thing to my 2011 Ford Escape, and, though it moved the tires and rims outward a bit, it actually gave the overall look of the car a more "wider stance" kind of look. Will report my findings in a future post, once the parts arrive...

To answer "Pi"'s questions, the wiring connector that came with my Curt wiring kit included a standard 4-wire "flat" connector. The connector simply snaps-in to the U-Haul "4-Flat Bracket" (their part number 13302, at $3.95 each) that I found at my local U-Haul accessories store. I first mounted the bracket to the underside of my rear valence, by drilling two 3/16" holes and using a couple of 3/16" rivets to permanently mount the bracket into place. See the photos below, to (a) see the mounting bracket installation, and the overall hitch and connector installation.

As I stated in my earlier posts, I had installed the Curt Class III hitch. It has the round-tube construction, and, while it does show a bit below the Sport's rear valence, I don't think it looks bad at all, considering how big and beefy the unit seemed to be. I now also have my wiring terminated in a standard 4-prong female connector unit, mounted in a special bracket to the left of the receiver. (Although my earlier post showed the connector hanging down, it's because that first photo was taken just after I had finished the hitch installation itself. The next day, I installed the connector bracket, so that it was all clean and properly-done). No "dangling wires" here for me, either! Methinks I would rather have some of the hitch showing below the valence, than having to do any cutting on it!

I had the stock painted/clearcoated alloy rims on my 2011 Escape done about 3 years ago... in a gloss black powdercoat... and, when I sold it (after buying my new Edge), they still looked terrific, even after a couple of tire changes (and a TPMS transmitter changeout).

Thanks for sharing your inputs... It seems like it would be too much trouble to make such a change-out, and I don't like the idea of adding spacers, if it can be avoided. Perhaps it might be easier to just have my existing 20" rims powdercoated in a nice gloss black, which might tone them down a bit, while adding to the overall stealthy look I was hoping for. Has anybody ever seen photos on the forum of a later-model Edge, that had that done?

Has anybody ever tried fitting a set of late-model Ford Explorer Police Interceptor rims (black steel, 18x8, 5-spoke, bolt pattern 5x4.5, part # DG1Z1015A) onto a 2015 Edge Sport that came with the 20" factory alloy wheels? Speedometer (VSS) calibration issues aside (an appropriately-sized 18" tire can makeup for the changeout of rim and tire), I am just wondering if these will even fit? After all, the front rotors and calipers on the Sport look pretty big, and already appear to be packed-in pretty tight, on the inside of the 20" factory rims. My 2015 Edge Sport is Tuxedo Black, and I love the blacked-out front grille... but was thinking that a set of those beefy black Interceptor rims and chrome hubcaps (or something along those lines) would complete the "stealthy" look of my Edge.

Yeah, I did that initially too, but soon discovered that the power outlets in my 2015 Edge Sport all eventually shut-off within a few seconds of turning the key off and locking the car. This could be problematic, for example, when parking on the side of the road with your 4-way flashers going... I tested it and they stopped flashing on my trailer shortly after getting out and locking the car... this is because the power module is apparently told to shut-down by the ECM shortly after you shut-down the car. In other words, you also apparently cannot leave your phone charging in the car unattended either, apparently. (This may be why the trailer module manufacturer specifically states not to tie-in the unit's power lead to any power module, but to only run it from a lead taken directly off of the battery). I then did so and now the car no longer plays any "games", in providing power to the unit.

A follow-up regarding my earlier wiring-kit problems: Although Curt sent me a new (and slightly-different) wiring module, I STILL had no brake lights coming out of the module after splicing-in the new one. I then traced and tested all the wiring back to the L/H OEM wiring harness connector, and found that I had a stop lamp signal going IN to the rear lamp housing... but no stop signal coming back OUT of either the lamp housing nor the Curt wiring harness. This therefore resulted in my getting no stop lamp signal going into the Curt module (and obviously nothing then going out of the module down to the trailer connector harness. Ironically, the new module that Curt sent me had an extra lead going into it... one that my original module did not have. It was colored Red and labeled "Stop-lamps". In the interest of having already spent too much time on this problem, I decided to run that lead up to the stop lamp lead (going into the tail lamp assembly), and suddenly I finally had my stop lamp signal showing-up at the 4-flat wiring harness going to the trailer! I then re-ran this extra wire to the stop-lamp lead on a permanent basis, and put it all back together... and the problem is finally solved. I have no idea as to why their #56272 kit was not working as designed on my particular car, but at least I finally got that issue resolved (although via using an extra input wire to do it)... but, as long as it's now working, right?

My first car was a '63 Chevy Nova, with an inline-6 and a 2-speed Powerglide transmission, bought just before I graduated high school in 1971. It had no power options whatsoever... which is what forced me learn how to go down to the local junkyard and plunder all the parts I needed to upgrade my car in that regard... a process which also forced me to learn how to work on them! That first car (and learning how to work on it) resulted in my having a lifelong love of cars, and doing most of the work myself. That little Nova was great, and I loved it so much that my next car was a '70 Nova (again with the six-cylinders!). Both cars were a blast to drive and own, and I have great memories as a result. A few years ago, I decided to buy and restore a '67 Camaro Rally Sport... but once I finished it, I rarely drove it, and then soon sold it. This was because today's cars are so "sound"; that is, built so much better and quieter, with amazing power pulled from small V-6's... that it was hard for me to "go back" to a car from the '60's era (even though that was the era that I had "cut my teeth" on). I guess we just didn't know any better back then, especially with what the future would actually bring us. So, as others have stated, while my first couple of cars were a blast at the time, NOTHING compares to the cars we have today... NOTHING!

I put a Class-III (2" receiver) Curt hitch on my 2015 Sport just the other day... the correct hitch in this size is Curt #13234 ($157.59 from Hitchmart online) and the correct wiring kit is Curt # 56272 ($69.88 from Hitchmart online). Their instructions stated that it should take an "expert" installer about 30 minutes to install the hitch, and a "novice" about 60 minutes; their estimate was laughable, at best! I'm not a novice, as I have done a few of these before, but in this case, it took me about 4 hours, due to all the disassembly you have to do first (lowering the rear of the exhaust system; removing the Sport exhaust bezels first, etc... plus, it was a bear fishing the bolts and backing plates up through those tiny hidden openings in the rear of the frame rails... all issues which combined to slow-down my progress considerably. However... once the hitch was installed, I was VERY pleased with the look (as noted in the attached photo). The hitch is powdercoated black, and I think it looks just fine, but that's one man's opinion. Sadly, when I tested the wiring kit and module that I had just installed, the turn signals and running lights all worked fine... but I had no stoplamps whatsoever! However, I called Curt and they were very helpful in providing technical support, and they immediately sent me out a new replacement module (which I'm hoping to install and re-test this weekend, hopefully with better results).

I will have to take another look under the hood, when I have some more time available... thanks!

I am putting the finishing connections on my new trailer hitch lighting module, and the instructions want me to run a heavy power lead from the rear of the car (where the module is located) all the way up front, and into the engine compartment (to connect directly to the battery). I've looked under both the hood and the dash, and cannot see any "easy" way to pass the cable through into the engine compartment. Has anyone on the forum had to do this yet? If so, did you find any existing passageway (or hole) from the driver's side through into the engine compartment? (With the engine going so far under the cowl, it seems an almost impossible task to get a heavy wire through into the engine compartment). Any ideas?

I actually just installed a very nice one on my new 2015 Edge Sport today... it is a Curt # 13234, and the correct wiring kit is the Curt # 56272...