Bobs2015EdgeSport

Yeah, that's always a possibility. Problem is my local Ford dealer's service department sucks, so I'm hesitant to take it in there. Based on past experience, they'll probably keep my car for 2 or 3 days, then come out scratching their heads, but still saying they couldn't find anything wrong with the system! I think I'm gonna just continue to see what it does, over this summer...

What is this "Shift to Park" issue you're referring to? I hadn't heard of this problem yet...

Although I have yet to purchase an ESP for my current 2015 Sport, I have purchased the ESP in the past, on my 2011 Escape and my 2007 Mustang. While I only had those vehicles for 4 years and 3 years (respectively), I never did have to use the ESP on either one of them, so I got a nice prorated chunk of my money back on those policies when I eventually sold and/or traded them in. As I have a little over two more years to go on the factory warranty on my 2015, before I have to worry about an ESP, I've decided that I will wait and see how well this 2015 works out during that time, before I decide to pull the trigger on the ESP this time around. I will say that I will never, ever buy a third-party "protection plan" for my Edge (or any car)... we once had one for our Chrysler years ago, and getting claims paid was terrible. Once a covered repair was completed, they required the dealer to call them and get an OK, and they paid them with some kind of corporate credit card... but they routinely jerked-around the dealer when they called in... even though the work was approved in advance by this particular company! One night we went in to pickup our car, and the dealer had been unable to get a straight answer out of the insurance company before the dealership closed, so we had to pay the dealership with our own personal credit card, to get the car back, and then fought the insurance company for reimbursement! Never again will I endure that kind of hardship... which is why a Ford ESP at least eliminates having to deal with a third-party scenario (and the headaches that come along with it)!

"Always on Edge", I meant to thank you for letting me know about the Gorilla multi-piece sets... I was not aware of these until you mentioned it here... and, they certainly do look a lot better on my wheels than the single McGard locking unit I originally had on there (which also stuck out about a 1/4" farther than the rest of the regular nuts on each wheel)!

Yeah, I've tried it with the windows down a bit, but, when this does happen to me, I'm still getting very hot air out of the vents at that time. (Of course when it's NOT happening... meaning, when it starts blowing cold pretty quickly... having the windows up or down doesn't make any difference either).

Yeah, I have one of those A/C thermometers; using that to test with will be next! Interestingly enough, today it was 85-degrees outside, and the car, of course, felt like an oven inside. I started it up and it blew very hot air for my first half-mile, before it started to blow even slightly-cooler air inside... and that was after I gave up using the normal setting and put it onto MAX. After a couple of miles of freeway driving, the air was icy cold again... but it still seems to me that this kind of thing shouldn't even be an issue. Maybe I'm expecting too much of the newer R134A systems. Where's that good old R12 refrigerant systems when you need them? Now, those really knew how to blow cold air! LOL!

To update everyone, I checked it again yesterday (from a "cold" start), when it was 93-degrees outside. The car was flaming hot, yet, the A/C compressor AND the fans turned-on as soon as I started the car and engaged the regular (not "MAX") A/C setting. It took about 60-seconds to start blowing in air that felt "lower" than the ambient temperature of the inside of the car. I figure that a 60-second wait was surely better than the good 5-minutes that it seemed to be taking when I first started this topic. The dash indicator also immediately indicated that it was 93-degrees outside, immediately upon start-up. After running some errands in that heat, I stopped to get the mail, and noticed when I was out of the car (with it still running) that both fans were apparently not only running but running as high/fast as they could... a good indicator that the ECM was telling both of the fans to spin as fast as they could, trying to keep up with not only the high outside ambient temperature but engine heat as well. The bottom line here is that, so far at least, I have suddenly not been able to reproduce the problem I was having before (assuming that I am OK with waiting for 60 seconds before the A/C-treated air starts dropping after start-up in the heat).

I was able to get a set of 20 black Gorilla locking lug nuts (Their part # 71643NBC) that fit my 2015 Sport perfectly. They are definitely M14 x 1.5. IF I did have to say anything "bad" about them, it is that the black finish (what they called a "black chrome") is a lot duller than the black painted ones that they replaced. That is, since my alloy rims are black powdercoated, the new Gorilla lug nuts now look a little duller than the rims do... but I can live with that, in exchange for better anti-theft security!

Actually, when I first went to his link to the Gorilla site, I'd put in my own 2015 info (since mine is a 2015), and it said the lug nuts he was using would not fit my car. Then, more out of curiousity than anything else, I tried putting in "2016" (his model year), and it said that the lug nuts he was already using would not fit his model! LOL!

I just clicked on the link to the Gorilla System set that "Always on Edge" posted above, for the set that he said he installed on his 2016 Sport without any problems... and, ironically, their "fitment" system says that the part number he is using is somehow "not compatible" with his vehicle! LOL! Like the similar fitment feature used on eBay, the one on Amazon clearly doesn't work well either... which is why I don't use that feature on either of the sites! Thanks for the posting, "Always on Edge", as I am now going to ignore Amazon's useless "fitment" feature, and order the same set for my car as well!

I tested it today, and it blew cold air again from the git-go, and every time I checked (including upon first start-up), the outside air temperature indicator was displaying in the instrument cluster. It seems like, as soon as I shared the problem here on the forum, its been working perfectly every time so far! Perhaps I have an intermittent problem going on here; I will continue to monitor the situation over the next few days, to see if it re-occurs. My thanks to everybody that chimed-in with their input!

Good point; I will check to see if there is a reading indicated on the instrument cluster, in case there is a correlation between that reading (which the onboard computer is aware of) and if it blows hot or cold. Also, I've always had the A/C settings set to the lowest it can go ("LO") when I've used the A/C, as well as I've also tried using the "MAX" setting first as well. The only thing the "MAX" setting has done is maybe shortened the time it takes to start blowing cold air down from 5 minutes of driving maybe to 3 or 4 minutes...

Those are a great idea, and I was not familiar with the Gorillas that you used on yours. Do they also make them in black?

OK, so I went outside mid-morning today (temp was about 70 degrees) and started the car for the first time and turned on the A/C. The fan came on immediately, and the A/C blew cold... leaving me wondering if it would do all this (as in work properly) if the temperature was much hotter, on the first start of the day. So, tomorrow, I am going to wait to start the car until it's much hotter (around 85+ degrees) than today's test, and, if the fan turns on immediately, but the air blows hot for a while, I will have to assume that it is only taking a while to blow cold air because all of the air ducting is extremely hot!

Anytime you have a "spongy" pedal, it's almost always indicative of air becoming trapped in the system! So, especially since you have noticed that the "feel" of the brakes is "super soft" and "goes all the way to the floor", I would bet anything that air got into the system! The only other remote possibility is that the technician failed to properly adjust the pedal linkage rod to fit the new booster (a good mechanic would have verified the length adjustment of the rod, just to be sure), which could possibly explain the pedal going to the floor. (I ran into this very same problem when restoring my '67 Camaro). But, I would put my money on air being in the system. And, NO, that is not "how it's supposed to be". A pedal going to the floor is an accident waiting to happen, so don't settle for their excuses. It's usually pretty easy to bleed each line on the brake system at home, if you have a floor jack and some basic tools (I've done it on many of my older, high-mileage vehicles, with my wife in the driver's seat pushing on the pedal for me, and the results were great). If doing it yourself is not an option for you, I would take it to another dealer or a shop that specializes in brake work and have them do it for you professionally. In reality, your brake fluid should be perfectly fine at 62K miles, so I doubt that you would find it to be "dirty". (I've typically waited to flush my brake fluid at around 100K miles, and even then, only as a preventative measure). Replacing the booster unit is a sure opportunity to introduce air into the system. Since it sounds like they didn't bother to bleed the brakes after reassembling everything, it sure sounds to me like they didn't finish the job properly!

My 2015 Edge Sport has always tracked perfectly true, since Day One! However, prior to getting my Edge, I had a really-great 2011 Ford Escape that would typically pull to either the right or the left, but the direction of the pull was ONLY dependant on what position my tires were in once I had done a tire rotation! I'd been told years ago that some radial tires will track a little to one side or the other, and that the problem can sometimes become evident by making the vehicle drift in one direction or the other (which also makes your steering wheel become off-center while you try to compensate for the problem). This was exactly what happened with my Escape; rotating the tires would change the direction of the pull. This continued for a few years, until I finally wore-out the original set of Michelins that came with it, and then I put a whole new set of identical Michelins on it. Once I was driving on that second replacement set, the problem all but disappeared... leading me to believe that there is some truth to the allegation that once in a while you're gonna get a radial tire that pulls to one side or the other.

Sorry I can't help you with your particular problem here, but I did want to share that it took me a long time to figure-out that, if you set the temperature at 70-degrees or ABOVE (as in the winter), the system will automatically shift all of the air flow DOWN to the lower (floorboard) vents... but, if you set it at BELOW the 70-degree threshold (as in the summer), all of the air is instead routed to the UPPER vents! I guess this is to keep your feet warmer in the winter, and your arms cooler in the summer? I've never seen this before, at least until I got my 2015 Edge, so it really threw me for a loop! (I thought something was wrong with the air dampers, at first)!

Oh, I should have mentioned that my total cost for this locking lugnut set was $39.58 delivered... I found them on eBay, at a Seller called Driven Products, LLC...

I used a set of McGard # 24216 (M14 x 1.5) Cone Wheel Locking Nuts, in Black, to match my 20" black rims on my 2015 Edge Sport, along with a set of black lugnuts. Here is a picture; you can clearly see the locking lugnut in place. These lugnuts should also fit the 2016 models. IF there is any drawback to using these, they tend to stick out a bit farther than the other standard lugnuts...

Hi, and thanks for your input. My Edge only has 4800 miles on it, and it's a California car, so there wouldn't be any clogging issue evident. Additionally, the front grille shutters have always opened shortly after starting, so I don't believe that has anything to do with the problem. I just went out and started-up the car again; it's been sitting in 95-degree heat this afternoon, after having last been driven about 5 hours ago. Both the fan and the compressor came on immediately, and it started blowing cold air immediately as well. In thinking about it, the problem seems to make itself known more when it's run for the very first time in any given day... In fact, in between running errands today, every time I started the car, the air would blow cold (other than that very first start of the day). I will check it again tomorrow, when the engine is truly "cold", to see if that makes any difference, and report in...

My 2015 Edge Sport (Tuxedo Black!) sits outside in the hot sun here all day, usually in temps of 80 to 100 degrees. Most days, when I first leave the house, the car is of course VERY hot (what with it being black and all)... and the A/C blows nothing but very hot air, at least until I've been driving for about 5 minutes or so, then it suddenly starts blowing cold air. My thought was that all the air ducts are very hot from sitting in the sun, but still, blowing nothing but hot air for the first few minutes of driving (when the setting is on LO) doesn't seem right to me. When I first start the car and engage the A/C, I can hear the compressor immediately kick on... but, I don't know if the fan is also supposed to kick on at the same time (even if the engine is cold)? I do not recall ever hearing the fan kick on when the engine is cold and the A/C is first turned on (even though it is hot outside). Has anybody had this issue yet? I am tempted to take it to the dealer, but I want to know if this symptom is indicative of a real problem or not, before I waste my time at the dealers (I suspect they'll just run it for a few minutes and put a thermometer in the vents, then tell me "it got cold so it must be OK"... which wouldn't address the fact that I get fried in my hot car for the first 5 minutes).

I was also able to replace the OEM blue Ford center caps with a black version that Ford ordered for me... to complete the all-black wheel look! These OEM 20" rims look great on my car, and I've even gotten a few more compliments on them by passing strangers in parking lots, so I must be on the right track!

Yes, the kit that ultimately worked for me was a Curt # 56190 "Powered Taillight Converter", and this is the one that had the extra red-lead (for the brake lights) that the first kit I had tried did not have. As I was about at the end of my rope, I decided to try connecting this "extra" red-lead into my brake lamp circuit, just for fun, and soon discovered that it cured the problem of having no brake lights (on the trailer)... as compared to the first (different part number) kit that I tried... so you might try this # 56190 kit off the bat, to at least give you the option of avoiding all the brake light problems that I encountered on my 2015 Sport. Hope this helps!

I have a dashcam that is hardwired directly into the forward power port, and, presumably because it draws almost nothing, the camera can usually stay on for hours after I shut off the car... although, occasionally, I will likewise hear it shut off (it beeps) sometimes as soon as I turn off the ignition. Go figure!

OK, I got my new rims on today, and they fit perfectly! They were an exact match for the original OEM rims that came with the car, as far as diameter, width, hole pattern and offset, so there were no problems with fitment. I think they look pretty nice on there (and, ironically, my local UPS driver asked me about them when he came to deliver a package this afternoon... telling me he noticed the change when he first pulled up, and that the black look really looks great on the car). Here's a first look...