rvcjew

1. When I got the car new AA was not out yet for the car, later it OTA'd to 3.0 and I had AA. Then I eventually got a new phone and AA would not work with that phone and V3.0, I had read that it was the Sync version and new phones rejected what ford was doing for AA deployment (idk what truth there is to that but the fact is it immediately stopped working) So I used SYNCUpter to go to 3.4 and then my phone worked fine and has worked no matter the phone since, I just had the usb notice to clear each time Sync booted, that notice is only for carplay basically. I have the newer hub in hand that if you wanted carplay in general on 3.0 due to the apple license stuff you have to install regardless. I just never did it as I saw no need using only AA. I will put it in this time since I have it anyways. 2. Thank you for this clarification. 3. I looked around and found local used ones (apim and screen) but then I would have to dig out forscan and program the thing my self. I found china ones or oem refurb know knows but they are the right looking/# part match and will program it for me with my VIN and have 4GB ram vs 2GB (newer vehicle apim design?) for a smoother experience on 3.4, for $200 I figured I would give that a shot then search local if that doesn't pan out. I have the service manual for my VIN I got from ford when I bought the car and have no fear to take out the center to swap/install it. The china special is from a vendor on amazon so regardless its returnable/refundable which is more then I can say for some ebay deals I saw. I am still slightly concerned with the screen being bad but if the apim truly just croaked it self then at this point I need it regardless to even get the rear camera recall done as they need Sync functional to even swap that part they said. My flicker was not a normal symptom of a bad apim from what I can tell but if the apim was so bad it died then perhaps the screen is fine after all. 4. Is the apim what stores the configs for like walking around the running car and the horn honking etc? I think not as with a black screen my gauge cluster right info screen still has the climate screen I coded in and just says 0 as it can't see the apim currently. I assume this must be configs in another module? Thank you for your advice so far. EDIT: so I thought about what you said above and it made more sense to be to dive deeper and uh yeah I think I have a bad screen and this is what actually killed the apim. fords software did not like what it saw and reformatted it in a way it was no longer able to.

So update, when the dealer did the self check on the apim it died completely apparently and never came back to life which wasn't mentioned in the report I attached but the manager called me after some back and forth emails on the price and time to fix etc and tldr they waived the diagnostic fee, I have the car back and it still needs one more recall (camera swap) but needs the apim functional to do it. They have said if I can source my own apim they will put it in for $690. I want to verify I need this one? G2GT-14G370-BM I don't really care if it has nav or not as I use android auto, unless it means the GPS antenna doesn't work anymore? I plan on putting it in my self at first and programming with forscan with my as built data to save the $690. I see the module around with screen for $230-300. This sound like a good plan? Edit: I just realized my as built data would have version 3.0 not 3.4 of sync 3 correct? So I would then have to update it to 3.4 again to use my phone.

I saw that post before making mine but they had issues with the system like Bluetooth dropping, I have zero issues but the display it self, the touch layer even still functions without issue. I figured it was the backlight driver that's probably going. Edit: I found the old log sync updater made and my current software is Sync 3.4.22110 Sync 3.4.22110

I brought in my 16 edge for 2 recalls and asked them to take a look at my flickering screen without realizing they don't even repair the screen, only the full apim with screen so I'm on the hook for 275 no matter what like a dummy for inspection. Every vehicle function works including all screen functions, the only issue is the screen it self. Touch also works flawlessly. I thought it could have been a corroded cable to the apim as well as it seems it was cold based sometimes but now is just flickering all the time. They want 700 for the apim and 1690 in labor. Attached is what they sent me in an email after I asked for an email. Can I not use forscan to do this test and verify this my self? I don't have like Bluetooth dropouts or anything like that only screen flicker and I don't have the greatest vision so have the screen brightness even at night basically cranked so I assume I just wore out the screen from use. Edit: I wanted to add incase it matters to what test they did and what happened. Over a decade ago when I got a new phone it would not do android auto with the car as the sync 3 software was to old and ford had no updates. So I used this app https://cyanlabs.net/applications/syn3updater/ at the time to go past what they had (I think I'm on 3.2 or 3.4? I don't have the car on hand) and as a bonus got all new updated maps etc. And it's been fine ever since other then when booting the car saying my usb hub is wrong which I just clear and don't have issues. I have the newer hub that also supports carplay to fix that warning just never got around to swapping it. Could it be they failed to try programing it as they were trying to program the as built data VS the newer data I had updated to from a 2018 I think at the time? I also changed the codes to make my horn not honk while walking in front of the running car, show my heated seats on the sync 3 screen and let the cluster have ac controls like the truck with forscan (years before the sync update though).

Update: this morning it was fine, checked and no dtc's. Then looked back and noticed one of the warnings was low voltage then realized my dash cam had been left on when I was with the client. So perhaps my battery is going bad or it just got so low it freaked out the module. Will keep tabs on it but so far so good. Old post: To start off in 2018 I believe it was I had the issue where the adaptive system failed and found a tsb for it and later a recall was issued I think. Anyway they swapped my entire steering wheel at the time because the gear had fallen apart or something. Now as of today I parked the car went and loaded it up and started it and got the warning on the dash and I used forscan to pull the codes. Looking at the This great thread with charts and info it seems this may not be a case of loose wires and I now just out of extended warranty need an entire new steering wheel once more? So far it is just normal non adaptive very light feeling steering with full wheel rotation and drivable but I don't want to drive it if it seems unsafe. According to the chart it is not in the do not drive state yet but you never know. DTC_2025-02-10_09.39.18.txt

Sport mode is stiffer then normal though. When it's off yeah the wheel feels like it's very much disengaged. For me it was 3.5 turns and super light feeling (one finger rotation) when it was replaced (wheel) but not programmed.

Man site is loading slow for me tonight, @luxpow it should be free as it's a tsb but I forget which one. Do you have a code atm in your engineering mode? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21044-adaptive-steering-fault/page-21?do=findComment&comment=169161 To turn the mode off just turn off the car. Is your adaptive steering now just like full lock steering or does it spin all the way around more then 720 degrees? Mine was safe to drive with and I did for a month as they were getting the part in but some others had it worse where it be very odd angles while going straight. Malcolm

Can that happen I think it uses a one way clip? One thing I was gonna do was take it out of its box and remove that foam block in there and put polyfill I have for other speaker projects for home theater. Its more like its gain is stuck at like -10 then goes up from there on the slider.

So do to a rattle in my roof two years ago the dealer (this dealer was horrific and I eventually had to go to another one) took my roof apart to look at some stuff and I won't bore you with the details about it but basically after they had touched my car the sub lvls of the car were all screwed up and they thought nothing was wrong. So my issue now is the perhaps the AMP/DSP in the back of my car is messed up as as far as I can tell as if the crossover of the stock unit is now in the 100's for the sub and the lowest gain setting on the sync 3 audio menu for bass is basically worthless and before the dealer had my car it lived in the middle of the bar (lowest was not punchy at all to off in gain), now even off it thumps like crazy. I now have tools to pop off the plastics and look at things but I was wondering first if I could get some knowledge of what might cause this and if a master reset of the Sync 3 system will touch the audio crossover lvls internally or not. Thanks. Malcolm

Sorry to bump an old thread but I have the stock sony setup with sub and after I got into the vehicle after coming out of the bank today it now beeps on start up like a warning beep then I noticed it all functions but my warnings ect are all in the cluster now and no longer the stock speakers, is this a programming glitch? Basically like this older thread on the fusion forums but I do have the sony radio and something obviously came loose or something. http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9354-special-service-messages-ssms/?do=findComment&comment=88030

If you just want the curved part the one in my sig is still going strong minus the emblem that flew off at about 28k miles. Payed for it self in multiple trips from CA to CO.

Wow, didn't know our window wash tank was that big!

Well coolant was majorly low I noticed today on a maintenance check for the trip down to San Diego. Lasted 25k without needing filling so not bad, also been carrying lots of wood lately (can confirm it will hold a 4x8 above you but you better duck down) and had some windshield damage filled (semi threw a rock going the other way what are the odds) and have yet to paint the gouge in the hood . I think the windshield would have been a loss if it did not hit the hood first. At least the Hood Protector is pitted and not my hood front so something went good this month.

Yup, new wheel inbound for you.

I went on trip with the family and they broke my left one and I got it out of the panel and it is obviously just a clip on part, I'm going to ford with it but it sounds like they are going to want to sell me the whole thing which is is insane as its obviously designed to be removable. The numbers off the part bring nothing up but it being a ford trim insignia I guess.

Yeah I get you that would suck I can happily say that after my new wheel I have not had one single fault but where I started getting faults was after I went on a 2k mi road trip and that will be again soon so will update if anything happens on that trip.

I find it also requires more effort to turn the wheel at higher speeds which I like. I find my self over correcting a ton on the Normal mode VS Sport. Coming from a car with a hydraulic rack I feel more in tune with the car in the Sport mode. @Quila it is always on just different levels of how it changes. It is only off when it fails.

This seems to be happening more and more and we should tell the NHTSA. Mine has been fine since the new wheel.

Also +1, I just moved my flac files over to a 64GB stick and it works fine. Putting over 200GB seems to freeze the index system if they are all lvl 5 flac. @captmark what player do you have that you want to send from, seems that only Bluetooth will work in your scenario, are you sure your player can not be put into a mass storage mode?

The car will not store the code it had when not closing?

Have had mine done for a while no issues, also thank god for OBD2 scanners as I had an airbag light a week ago and looked and did not find anything but the thing told me the seat belt was stuck against the seat that I missed causing a tension timeout. Malcolm

Thanks, hopefully it still looks that way after being torn apart at the dealer. Secret is only take pics when it's clean.

Added them to my gallery on here so that it would thumbnail them. Thanks for the info.