TourGuide

When I did this sort of swap on my wife's escape - which has the projector style hallogens OE - I just used trial and error to adjust the clocking of the bulb. I only had to readjust the drivers side as I got lucky the first time on the passenger side. That would be my recommendation is to give it a whirl and change it if need be - though I would advise doing so when time allows you to get it adjusted properly. Oncoming drivers will appreciate the consideration. I found that with the projectors - it is possible to get the desired result.

Good luck! Nothing like that new car smell!

I am not certain about the technical details - but my understanding of your situation (having been there myself) is that the head unit needs to have support for apple car play or android auto as the case may be. Sync 2 head units lack this - so a wireless dongle won't help. Your head unit is the limiting factor. For several generations of vehicle I also had OE nav installed, but became disenchanted with it - especially once android auto and car play came on the scene. OE nav maps are eternally outdated and WAY overpriced. The routing on those head units is always inferior - I am pretty sure due to the older data set and probably the routing engine itself. I eventually realized that I was using google maps for all my nav needs - and even this is not perfect. OE nav ended up being what I would use as my emergency fallback solution when my phone died - or was unavailable. In my current 19 - I gave the OE nav up - and have not regretted it for a second. My sync 3 head unit supports android auto and car play - so I have nav that way - continuously updated. I am content with the notion that I am also paying for that by sacrificing some data privacy - just like people do on facebook - instagram - etc. What I get out of that seems to me a fair trade - based on what I know of the exchange presently.

Sounds like a loose heat shield to me. Describe your symptoms as you have here to give them the best shot at tracking it down. Dealership service departments hate these things btw - time sinks to them. Important to you though so just insist they remedy the issue.

I purchased a kit from this outfit a couple of years ago - https://www.4dtech.com/ The kit was pricy (I felt) but it helped me accomplish the goal of having real sync 3. This is a complete hardware kit including apim and usb hub.

McGard solid lugs were my choice and are a pretty solid choice - aside from the cost. I ended up balancing that with the thought that replacing corroded ones multiple times would ultimately be an equivalent expense over time and less hassle. At least that is how i rationalized it...

Whenever I buy a Ford vehicle now - if the oe lugs are still on there - they get replaced right away. It is a chronic problem that I think is engineered to get JUST past 3 years and 36k miles.

I replaced my oe lugs with the mcgard solids for the color (black). I have heard - and I don't know if it is mentioned here that mcgard is the oem for the two piece units that come with the edge. I do feel a little soiled having paid what I felt was a handsome price for the mcgards but they are holding up well. These 22 mm lugs motivated me to buy an impact - so there is that...

My 19 remembers whatever the last audio source playing was and starts off with that. If I want something different - like andoid auto audio when FM radio begins playing - I have to select it manually to change.

I have not had this experience with Ziebart rustproofing - now this is based on me NOT annually renewing - or having the vehicle REsprayed I have just had them treated then driven. I have not had the underside of my vehicles look anything like what is shown in that video. The untreated vehicles I have all had and kept have rotted away. No vehicle I have ever had treated once from Ziebart has ever had rot issues. Having said that - it is undeniable what he is showing there. The underside of my vehicles are NOT goobered up like that. Perhaps that is the difference.

I have been a proponent of Ziebart - as were my mom and dad - having experienced vehicles with and without - the difference is crystal to me - any vehicle that I intend to keep gets the protection. Living in the rust belt dictates the need.

When it comes to things such as this - I operate by the simple thought that fluid is cheaper than parts and labor - no matter what. By that logic I try to get the best OE - or BETTER than fluid I can get as long as it meets and or exceeds spec. I would hesitate to put anything that did not meet or exceed the OEM requirements.

The 2019 OEM LED housing has that beat - $2000. This sort of design decision falls in line with others they made - like $50 per quart RDU fluid that has no aftermarket equivalent - or non-serviceable ball joints that require the replacement of the entire control arm. These are head scratchers - but they do not leave customers with that value feeling when they encounter them out of warranty.

That tool looks really heavy duty. I wonder if you could put an impact on that instead of the ratchet (which is probably the correct way).

I think the pertinent question is really - how long are you going to be in this vehicle - and let that be your guide as to how you decide to proceed. Lately - my approach has been to live by the motto it is easier to fix a vehicle than it is to buy a new one. To me - what is worth fixing follows this general order - #1 Safety items (brakes -major mechanical items, hvac, etc.) - #2 - Structural items (such as repairable rot, or other vehicle soundness related things - such as suspension and handling items) - #3 Standard wear items such as tires, wipers - and I would include brakes in this which you could also argue belongs under #1). - #4 Convenience items - like heated seats - entertainment system - bluetooth stuff. - #5 Cosmetic things - like paint and so forth. By my mode of operating - your issue there would fall under #2 on my list and as such to me would be a high priority item - again - provided you plan to keep the vehicle. If you don't want to have that repaired - I would take it to a rust proofing outfit and have them goober it up - then watch it for signs of further deterioration. That would be my jobber solution.

The service kit that I saw looked to be all aluminum - which should mimic the original part - and ought to provide long service life. I am 100% with you on a drain plug (even with the cooler) and a MUCH larger fluid capacity. This design choice was a major screw up on the part of Ford. For what it is worth - this design as been in service for some years in really hot climates (middle east) and seems to have held up in those environments - just an interesting aside.

The extract and replace is obviously less than perfect - but as you say - better than nothing. Here is a diagram from my 2019 showing the cooler - which seems to be attached to lines that run through the radiator. The service procedure calls for using the 'service kit' that includes the bolts - the cooler and o-rings for about $300. Since we know now - that we can get the plug kit - which includes the bolts for much less - I think that is a better option - but you may not be able to replace the o-ring if you go this way unless you are prepared to remove the cross member right behind the cooler. I have been told that to remove the cooler - that needs to be done. It is kind of a dealers choice situation. I opted for the extract and refill.

In my experience each and every one of these gps systems - no matter who they are managed by - have functional issues at one point or another while they operate. Most of the time they work fine - but sometimes - they can get very mixed up and show evidence of malfunction. There are so many alternatives that are NOT paid at this point - Google Maps - Waze are two alternatives that I have a hard time justifying paying any amount cash for these types of services. I know GM and now Ford are trying to turn us into further revenue streams with this - but the horse is already out of the barn and I don't plan to ever pay for this service again. I am also under no illusions that there is a hidden cost to my 'free' take on this because I am surrendering my data in order to access this capability - but I am aware that I am doing that and have decided that to me - this does not matter.

When I was working with an independent shop on this - their tech had worked on these at the dealership and had said that removing the cooler would involve taking the cross member out - but that may have involved other obstructions like the lines that are supposed to be attached to your Edge, but are not. From what I saw on the cooler I looked at - it appears to run most of the length of that shape on the case. It is infuriating that these things don't have drain plugs - what a screw up. The other problem with these PTUs is straight up the volume of fluid - there just isn't enough of it.

At 66.5k I decided to have the trans serviced - so that got done. Renewing the properties of the fluid helped it shift better/smoother. This unit has had the latest TSB performed and that made a huge difference. This improvement was more subtle - and really for my peace of mind.

Thank you for posting these part numbers. That is very helpful. That fluid does not look horrible - shows wear - but seems in reasonable shape. Did you happen to send a sample for analysis?

I think the only quantity of fluid that meets spec you will find is for 1 quart - so no matter what - you have enough to fill to the bottom of the fill plug. I have always purchased this fluid in quart jugs. It is really disappointing that those stretch bolts are not sold with the plug. $300 for the kit is too steep I think and REALLY unnecessary - sort of like the RDU fluid @ $50 per quart - what an insult - or a $2000 dollar headlight replacement. I scratch my head at these choices by Ford.

Dealer field trip is probably the right thing to do and also to verify that the screen capture from above showing a one piece fastener is indeed wrong. I only just looked at the kit briefly before deciding to do the evacuate and fill method - but I do believe that I saw the fasteners as a single piece - I didn't manipulate them to verify - but... Anyhow - good luck and let us know what you find out. I am glad to see that at long last the parts *may* be available at long last to perform a proper spill and fill.

If you do not have to buy the $300 (retail) service kit - count yourself lucky. It does look like on your 20 they deleted the cooler. I scratch my head at OEM decisions like this. It seems every manufacturer has their own version of decontenting at play. In this case they didn't even give you BACK your drain plug! You will probably never find out why that was done. On a side note - It looks like the bolt and nut are separate on that picture - but I believe they are a single piece that then threads into the block. I'm not sure if this makes them a special part.

I have a 2019 with the cooler. I had the service performed with a suck out and refill strategy which is obviously not ideal - but the only way for me to source those stretch bolts you mention is to buy a kit for replacement of the entire cooler assembly JUST to get those TWO STINKING bolts! $300 for the kit! I was unhappy with this kind of proposition and so ended up settling for the evacuate and refill strategy. Mon Dieu! It is design decisions like this that are killing this brand. Is that a picture of your PTU case? It looks like there is a spot there where the cooler sits on my 2019 PTU - but it is missing in your 20. Curious. The ford parts catalog shows the cooler on the edge with the 2.7 and awd: I do not know what to make of your transfer case.