TourGuide

You'll need to be more specific if you want feedback.

Recalls kick in when someone is going to die - basically. Sad but it has been repeatedly shown to be truth in my observation.

I know and have mostly used the motorcraft beam wipers for quite a while, but I've had to replace these inside a year the last few replacements. Searching for a better alternative I saw that project farm did a look at different blades and found bosch icons came out on top. My experience so far has been that they are indeed better than the motorcraft blades. You could make a value a case for increased cost but I just find the bosch is a better blade period - cost as an aside.

Have you ever lifted all 4 wheels on the Edge to jack stands Cerberus?

Hmm - Looking more closely at the documents Haz provided about the system - it seems there is a separate circulation pump for the ptu cooler - as there is a service procedure document for the replacement. It is plumbed through the radiator though - as I had referenced that myself earlier. I know there will be disagreement on this forum about it - but given the operating conditions - the only ways I can see to increase the reliability of this system would be - add a drain plug to facilitate a proper spill and fill - wrap the cat and use a turbo blanket to reduce the heat soak - and use a better (and here is the controversy) fluid - such as the lightweight shockproof stuff from red line. It is really THE fatal flaw for some iterations of this setup that a drain plug is missing. In those cases the service procedure is insane - and I am not talking about the jobber solution of evacuate with a pump and refill - that is a less than ideal service.

Yesterday I had the driver and passenger side windows tinted 15% to match the backs. Happy with the results. She is a dirty girl right now - so I have to clean her up before pictures.

Wow - what a difference in that mount! I call that a nice upgrade!

Yes - it is all plumbed through the radiator - so it should all (most likely) be run by the same circulation pump. This is a system they have implemented in really hot climates. The design in general has some significant weaknesses - one of which is oil capacity - and THAT will get no amount of improvement as it exists without increasing the reservoir.

When I did this sort of swap on my wife's escape - which has the projector style hallogens OE - I just used trial and error to adjust the clocking of the bulb. I only had to readjust the drivers side as I got lucky the first time on the passenger side. That would be my recommendation is to give it a whirl and change it if need be - though I would advise doing so when time allows you to get it adjusted properly. Oncoming drivers will appreciate the consideration. I found that with the projectors - it is possible to get the desired result.

Good luck! Nothing like that new car smell!

I am not certain about the technical details - but my understanding of your situation (having been there myself) is that the head unit needs to have support for apple car play or android auto as the case may be. Sync 2 head units lack this - so a wireless dongle won't help. Your head unit is the limiting factor. For several generations of vehicle I also had OE nav installed, but became disenchanted with it - especially once android auto and car play came on the scene. OE nav maps are eternally outdated and WAY overpriced. The routing on those head units is always inferior - I am pretty sure due to the older data set and probably the routing engine itself. I eventually realized that I was using google maps for all my nav needs - and even this is not perfect. OE nav ended up being what I would use as my emergency fallback solution when my phone died - or was unavailable. In my current 19 - I gave the OE nav up - and have not regretted it for a second. My sync 3 head unit supports android auto and car play - so I have nav that way - continuously updated. I am content with the notion that I am also paying for that by sacrificing some data privacy - just like people do on facebook - instagram - etc. What I get out of that seems to me a fair trade - based on what I know of the exchange presently.

Sounds like a loose heat shield to me. Describe your symptoms as you have here to give them the best shot at tracking it down. Dealership service departments hate these things btw - time sinks to them. Important to you though so just insist they remedy the issue.

I purchased a kit from this outfit a couple of years ago - https://www.4dtech.com/ The kit was pricy (I felt) but it helped me accomplish the goal of having real sync 3. This is a complete hardware kit including apim and usb hub.

McGard solid lugs were my choice and are a pretty solid choice - aside from the cost. I ended up balancing that with the thought that replacing corroded ones multiple times would ultimately be an equivalent expense over time and less hassle. At least that is how i rationalized it...

Whenever I buy a Ford vehicle now - if the oe lugs are still on there - they get replaced right away. It is a chronic problem that I think is engineered to get JUST past 3 years and 36k miles.

I replaced my oe lugs with the mcgard solids for the color (black). I have heard - and I don't know if it is mentioned here that mcgard is the oem for the two piece units that come with the edge. I do feel a little soiled having paid what I felt was a handsome price for the mcgards but they are holding up well. These 22 mm lugs motivated me to buy an impact - so there is that...

My 19 remembers whatever the last audio source playing was and starts off with that. If I want something different - like andoid auto audio when FM radio begins playing - I have to select it manually to change.

I have not had this experience with Ziebart rustproofing - now this is based on me NOT annually renewing - or having the vehicle REsprayed I have just had them treated then driven. I have not had the underside of my vehicles look anything like what is shown in that video. The untreated vehicles I have all had and kept have rotted away. No vehicle I have ever had treated once from Ziebart has ever had rot issues. Having said that - it is undeniable what he is showing there. The underside of my vehicles are NOT goobered up like that. Perhaps that is the difference.

I have been a proponent of Ziebart - as were my mom and dad - having experienced vehicles with and without - the difference is crystal to me - any vehicle that I intend to keep gets the protection. Living in the rust belt dictates the need.

When it comes to things such as this - I operate by the simple thought that fluid is cheaper than parts and labor - no matter what. By that logic I try to get the best OE - or BETTER than fluid I can get as long as it meets and or exceeds spec. I would hesitate to put anything that did not meet or exceed the OEM requirements.

The 2019 OEM LED housing has that beat - $2000. This sort of design decision falls in line with others they made - like $50 per quart RDU fluid that has no aftermarket equivalent - or non-serviceable ball joints that require the replacement of the entire control arm. These are head scratchers - but they do not leave customers with that value feeling when they encounter them out of warranty.

That tool looks really heavy duty. I wonder if you could put an impact on that instead of the ratchet (which is probably the correct way).

I think the pertinent question is really - how long are you going to be in this vehicle - and let that be your guide as to how you decide to proceed. Lately - my approach has been to live by the motto it is easier to fix a vehicle than it is to buy a new one. To me - what is worth fixing follows this general order - #1 Safety items (brakes -major mechanical items, hvac, etc.) - #2 - Structural items (such as repairable rot, or other vehicle soundness related things - such as suspension and handling items) - #3 Standard wear items such as tires, wipers - and I would include brakes in this which you could also argue belongs under #1). - #4 Convenience items - like heated seats - entertainment system - bluetooth stuff. - #5 Cosmetic things - like paint and so forth. By my mode of operating - your issue there would fall under #2 on my list and as such to me would be a high priority item - again - provided you plan to keep the vehicle. If you don't want to have that repaired - I would take it to a rust proofing outfit and have them goober it up - then watch it for signs of further deterioration. That would be my jobber solution.

The service kit that I saw looked to be all aluminum - which should mimic the original part - and ought to provide long service life. I am 100% with you on a drain plug (even with the cooler) and a MUCH larger fluid capacity. This design choice was a major screw up on the part of Ford. For what it is worth - this design as been in service for some years in really hot climates (middle east) and seems to have held up in those environments - just an interesting aside.

The extract and replace is obviously less than perfect - but as you say - better than nothing. Here is a diagram from my 2019 showing the cooler - which seems to be attached to lines that run through the radiator. The service procedure calls for using the 'service kit' that includes the bolts - the cooler and o-rings for about $300. Since we know now - that we can get the plug kit - which includes the bolts for much less - I think that is a better option - but you may not be able to replace the o-ring if you go this way unless you are prepared to remove the cross member right behind the cooler. I have been told that to remove the cooler - that needs to be done. It is kind of a dealers choice situation. I opted for the extract and refill.