TourGuide

Interesting - it makes me wonder if your 15 fusion didn't have the bms system on it. I have followed the person who is shown in this source video in the past. He does know his mechanic stuff - so 🤷‍♂️

I will add that the service procedure recommendeds that you hook up the scan tool (which I don't have a Ford scan tool) to perform the reset. I would hazard a guess that techs at the dealership are using this instead of wading through 16 menus to get the function punched in on the scanner. Then you get charged.5 or an hour or so of labor for about a 15 second procedure. That is about $250.00 for an hour around my local dealership.

The battery monitoring system keeps track of the battery voltage and to my understanding - regulates the amount of power going to the vehicle systems. I'm replacing my battery and so instead of the old and bad battery - I'll have a new one with full voltage capability - and this all my subsystems can operate at peak capabilities - instead of operating at a reduced performance spec to keep things running.

This is a fairly simple process and important for various reasons. No scan tool or calibration needed that I can see. 1. With the vehicle in accessory power mode - flash high beams 5 times in a row. 2. Tap the brakes 3 times. 3. Done. Source: Youtube video link. Of course - the dealership would also be happy to invite you for a visit and pay them a small fee to hook up their scan tool and perform the reset - but your choice is your choice. Have a great day! Further in the replies to this thread - the venerable Haz chimed in with more detail about BMS. This quickie reset applies to vehicles that will have the battery replaced with a new unit. After this thread mostly played out - I went out and purchased a bidirectional scan tool - so I have another method to perform this reset among other functions. Cheers all - and cheers to Haz!

When I bought my 19 the hood would shake noticeably at highway speed and around town over bumps. After adjusting it is better but it still will do this to my eye even at max adjustment of these bumpers. I have looked at the clearance on the hood closure and the fitment - it appears that on mine - adjusting the hood hinges won't be possible without messing something else up - so I have got what I have got. Mine is better after tweaking - but probably won't ever be fully solid.

The OE blades will sometimes do this too. I haven't taken the time to adjust it - but if you have a puller - you can adjust the sweep to avoid this. I think I notice this at highway speeds - but around town driving it works fine.

I have done an upgrade from a sync2 system to a 3. It seems that being a sync system may limit your upgrade options to what you have done so far - but it may be worth inquiring about. Here is a link to an outfit I used - I found them to be pretty responsive to questions and was happy with the product they delivered. https://www.4dtech.com/16-ford-edge-navigation-upgrade-for-sync-3/

You'll need to be more specific if you want feedback.

Recalls kick in when someone is going to die - basically. Sad but it has been repeatedly shown to be truth in my observation.

I know and have mostly used the motorcraft beam wipers for quite a while, but I've had to replace these inside a year the last few replacements. Searching for a better alternative I saw that project farm did a look at different blades and found bosch icons came out on top. My experience so far has been that they are indeed better than the motorcraft blades. You could make a value a case for increased cost but I just find the bosch is a better blade period - cost as an aside.

Have you ever lifted all 4 wheels on the Edge to jack stands Cerberus?

Hmm - Looking more closely at the documents Haz provided about the system - it seems there is a separate circulation pump for the ptu cooler - as there is a service procedure document for the replacement. It is plumbed through the radiator though - as I had referenced that myself earlier. I know there will be disagreement on this forum about it - but given the operating conditions - the only ways I can see to increase the reliability of this system would be - add a drain plug to facilitate a proper spill and fill - wrap the cat and use a turbo blanket to reduce the heat soak - and use a better (and here is the controversy) fluid - such as the lightweight shockproof stuff from red line. It is really THE fatal flaw for some iterations of this setup that a drain plug is missing. In those cases the service procedure is insane - and I am not talking about the jobber solution of evacuate with a pump and refill - that is a less than ideal service.

Yesterday I had the driver and passenger side windows tinted 15% to match the backs. Happy with the results. She is a dirty girl right now - so I have to clean her up before pictures.

Wow - what a difference in that mount! I call that a nice upgrade!

Yes - it is all plumbed through the radiator - so it should all (most likely) be run by the same circulation pump. This is a system they have implemented in really hot climates. The design in general has some significant weaknesses - one of which is oil capacity - and THAT will get no amount of improvement as it exists without increasing the reservoir.

When I did this sort of swap on my wife's escape - which has the projector style hallogens OE - I just used trial and error to adjust the clocking of the bulb. I only had to readjust the drivers side as I got lucky the first time on the passenger side. That would be my recommendation is to give it a whirl and change it if need be - though I would advise doing so when time allows you to get it adjusted properly. Oncoming drivers will appreciate the consideration. I found that with the projectors - it is possible to get the desired result.

Good luck! Nothing like that new car smell!

I am not certain about the technical details - but my understanding of your situation (having been there myself) is that the head unit needs to have support for apple car play or android auto as the case may be. Sync 2 head units lack this - so a wireless dongle won't help. Your head unit is the limiting factor. For several generations of vehicle I also had OE nav installed, but became disenchanted with it - especially once android auto and car play came on the scene. OE nav maps are eternally outdated and WAY overpriced. The routing on those head units is always inferior - I am pretty sure due to the older data set and probably the routing engine itself. I eventually realized that I was using google maps for all my nav needs - and even this is not perfect. OE nav ended up being what I would use as my emergency fallback solution when my phone died - or was unavailable. In my current 19 - I gave the OE nav up - and have not regretted it for a second. My sync 3 head unit supports android auto and car play - so I have nav that way - continuously updated. I am content with the notion that I am also paying for that by sacrificing some data privacy - just like people do on facebook - instagram - etc. What I get out of that seems to me a fair trade - based on what I know of the exchange presently.

Sounds like a loose heat shield to me. Describe your symptoms as you have here to give them the best shot at tracking it down. Dealership service departments hate these things btw - time sinks to them. Important to you though so just insist they remedy the issue.

I purchased a kit from this outfit a couple of years ago - https://www.4dtech.com/ The kit was pricy (I felt) but it helped me accomplish the goal of having real sync 3. This is a complete hardware kit including apim and usb hub.

McGard solid lugs were my choice and are a pretty solid choice - aside from the cost. I ended up balancing that with the thought that replacing corroded ones multiple times would ultimately be an equivalent expense over time and less hassle. At least that is how i rationalized it...

Whenever I buy a Ford vehicle now - if the oe lugs are still on there - they get replaced right away. It is a chronic problem that I think is engineered to get JUST past 3 years and 36k miles.

I replaced my oe lugs with the mcgard solids for the color (black). I have heard - and I don't know if it is mentioned here that mcgard is the oem for the two piece units that come with the edge. I do feel a little soiled having paid what I felt was a handsome price for the mcgards but they are holding up well. These 22 mm lugs motivated me to buy an impact - so there is that...

My 19 remembers whatever the last audio source playing was and starts off with that. If I want something different - like andoid auto audio when FM radio begins playing - I have to select it manually to change.

I have not had this experience with Ziebart rustproofing - now this is based on me NOT annually renewing - or having the vehicle REsprayed I have just had them treated then driven. I have not had the underside of my vehicles look anything like what is shown in that video. The untreated vehicles I have all had and kept have rotted away. No vehicle I have ever had treated once from Ziebart has ever had rot issues. Having said that - it is undeniable what he is showing there. The underside of my vehicles are NOT goobered up like that. Perhaps that is the difference.