TourGuide

Does this mean you're ready to spend $7k on new SS lines?

I like the feature - most of the time - but there are situations where it can act weird. On the way to Virginia we passed through some construction zones where the road had a concrete divider and some pylons set up on top that created a shutter effect with oncoming trucks. The flashing of the lights with oncoming traffic made it hard for the system to decide what it was supposed to do. I'd say it works as intended around 95% of the time or more. As far as the sensors go - I'm not sure if the day/night photo cell is what is used to trip the high beams or not. My guess would be - not. That sensor seems to have a higher threshold to activate. When in high beam (auto-on) mode - there is very, very little light needed to turn the beams down to low. I suppose this is good from the standpoint of being considerate to others - but it sure seems like an entirely different level of sensitivity to me.

I don't claim to know anything really about how the HIDs work or their requirements (someone here probably does), but I do have them on my sport - and I think there may be a little more to them than a housing swap and reprogram. The HIDs - at least on my sport - come with an 'auto highbeam' feature that turns the high-beams on automatically when conditions are dark enough. I am sure that there is a photo sensor controlling this embedded somewhere - but I have no idea where. To get full functionality out of it there may be more to it than housing and software, although that would probably get you at least manual control of high beam function. The question would be if an error of some kind would be generated after a reprogramming to the sport system where there is a call to a sensor that isn't installed.

I did try this - I worked it a few times and now it is folding - although the folding isn't prefect, it does work. I certainly wouldn't call these seats 'fold flat' by any means.

Since this is a 2015 (and most probably still under warranty) - I'd let the dealership worry about fixing it at the next oil change.

The best example I can think of is - towing. There are times - like when I am towing my lawn tractor, or I have my bike rack hooked up - where I DON'T want that tailgate popping open - at all. When I am hooking either of those things up - I frequently will trigger the liftgate to open without trying. Now I know I need to leave my key elsewhere and I don't have to worry about it - but a switch that allows me to temporarily disable the sensor would also solve this without forcing me to alter my behavior in carrying my smartkey. Sifting through the menus doesn't seem very user friendly to me. My Buick made this very easy.

A switch to disable the operation of the rear hatch seems to be a missing feature. I am supposed to 'leave the key somewhere else' and that would solve the problem, but why should I have to when a simple disable switch could fix this? I previously owned an Enclave that had such a switch and I didn't even HAVE a sensor that would open the rear hatch. The use of this smart key technology truly does change your behavior when it comes to the use of these vehicles. I am used to keeping the key in my pocket - hopping in and taking off. Has anyone else had this wish?

Yes - I was going to ask how you went about the cleaning.

I am wondering if people who are talking about 'turbo lag' on these engines aren't instead confusing this with the delay that is typically associated with the throttle by wire systems. When you go from idle and stomp the throttle there is a delay in response - a slight hesitation - as if the system is trying to figure out if you 'really' want to do that. When the input continues - it responds. I've found that - when I drove the 2.0 in my Escape - if I squeezed the throttle more gradually - I could get a better launch. I never got really good at it as I was trying to save fuel more often than not - but I did notice this to be true.

I know some people are really determined to get the full oem look - but what akirby suggests here is a good option. I did this and have been happy with the result. I do not have huge towing needs for my vehicle - bike racks and small lawn tractor trailers really. So for me this is a perfect option. That said - it is not the oem look because the receiver does protrude below the rear bumper valence - rather than integrate through it as the oem look does. In function - this has only really meant (to me) that I've had to flip my ball mounts from drops to rises so the trailer can sit level. The only other thing about the hidden hitch that I would add is that as akirby says - technically it does still allow the rear liftgate sensor to work - it does block the sensor in the middle under the receiver. You have to teach yourself where to kick - rather than being able to kick anywhere in the general vicinity of the rear bumper.

I have verified that the seat is not reclined. This will be my first verified warranty claim.

In my case - I can hear the motor trying to actuate the seat - but it isn't moving the left side.

I also noticed this problem with my 16. It sounds to me like the same exact situation - I can manually fold the driver side, but it will not operate with the switch - right side works fine. I plan to have it corrected at the first oil change appointment.

See this guy you talked to gives the Ford position and attitude on this perfectly. I've always been more of a mind that I have a better chance of the vehicle treating me right when I PROPERLY maintain it. I kind of got a laugh at my Dad with his 'maintenance' of his small engines with stuff like oil changes. He just never did them. Put in gas and away you go. After he replaced the third engine I figured he would kind of get the idea - nope. Dad was probably secretly working on the side in charge of Ford PTU maintenance. I know for a fact he fit in perfectly with the corporate philosophy where PTUs are concerned.

It is good to know that at least someone has found a shop willing to do the work. The first shop I checked with said - "Nope - Can't be done.". Of course they are quoting the Ford playbook - so my search continues.

Fantastic - that is EXACTLY what I needed! Thank you!

I'm looking for a good explanation of how to get the seat back covers unzipped on the 2016 Edge Sport. I ordered one of the exhaust kits but I am finding the direction set leaves me with questions. Can anyone help?

Someone took the privacy out of your privacy windows - or at least that one

My seats have this perforation and I can tell everyone conclusively that the perforation doesn't do ANYTHING to assist the problem with the seat backs not cooling properly. Each time the idea of the seat perforations somehow imparting a 'flow through' ventilation I am surprised anew. In order for the perforation to have THAT level of permeability the seat would have to contain all of the supportive characteristics of a hammock. Perforated leather does nothing to help with this problem.

Yeah - it was - and probably is due for a few parts - don't get me started on the AC system - eesh! I'm not entirely certain it is the coils - but I am suspecting this is the case since the entire plug set only has a couple thousand miles on it - and the dealership we worked with worked pretty hard at troubleshooting out the missing before. RIGHT away they pointed to the aftermarket COPs - which I acknowledged may be part of the problem. I suspect they give everyone the brow-beat treatment when they come in with aftermarket parts, being an OEM shop. To be fair the thing probably DOES need a good induction cleaning, but in most other mechanical respects it is a vehicle in good working order. From what I see Accel - and other aftermarket COPs that I have looked at have one advantage over Motorcraft parts - price.

Okay - here is an Accel coil story for you. We bought an 01 Escape that had all 6 COPs replaced with Accels. It was missing quite a bit and throwing CEL codes - so we took it in to the dealership and let them smooth out the idle with a new set of plugs - but 8 months later the missing is back. I think it is probably one or more of those COPs going bad. I'm going to have to replace the COPs and when I do - I'm going to be purchasing the OEM parts. At least those will come with a 24 month unlimited mileage warranty. My next complaint isn't coil related - but it has to do with the amount of crap that has to come off the engine in order to get to the back 3 COPs. I may just end up farming it out - rather than try cobbling it together myself.

I generally swallow the cost of Motorcraft parts unless there is a really good record to indicate something is better. Shopping online can ease the pain some.

Heh! You're right about the halogen to HID lecture. Around here - and everywhere probably - I see it as the biggest problem where people will put HID bulbs into a standard reflector lamp housing (talk about getting blinded!) - as opposed to halogen projectors. Even though it isn't perfect - I think the conversion in a projector housing is a better bet. I haven't seen a before and after comparison - so I don't know how the end result compares to the HIDs on my sport.

I'd also add to the bolded text here - also be smart about WHERE you leave things in your car. Leaving items of value - however small - in the open and visible is asking for trouble. Take for example a GPS - how many times have you seen these things stuck to the front window? They are a quick $100+ of value that speaks to a person who is struggling to stay honest.

For the rustproofing I did Ziebart. I've dealt with them for years and always had great luck. The local shop is a winner to deal with. The paint protection tape was 3M I believe. The shop I went with does fantastic work on this - very happy with the result. Lifetime warranty - if it ever yellows or goes bad they will replace it.