Beezz

Yessir, noticed that last night in the files

Im losing brain cells digging further into this. They scratched the mating surface on the underside of the engine. It appears they didn't change the oil filter (80% certain, going to wait to pull it out until I meet with the GM to show him). The tech thought my exhaust pipe and radiator cover was the appropriate place to wipe the sealant on his/her fingers off. There's engine oil all over the exhaust. They spilled engine oil on the engine and hood latch mechanism, apparently they don't know how to use a rag. I'm meeting with the GM to let him know about this utter incompetence.

Mine is going in tomorrow morning, technician told me he needs it for at least 3 hours. Its a fairly simple repair but time consuming. Your dealer will have to be able to replicate the issue before they order the part under warranty. Which will mean they'll need it for 3 -4 hours to confirm the pedal sensitivity. If you're lucky and the issue is replicate-able as soon as you take it to them you'll be out quick. But the replacement will take some time.

Ah alright as long as it is a liquid gasket then maybe this is normal. My factory pan had no sealent oozing out from the mating surfaces,it appeared to have a gasket. This one does, it's everywhere. And yeah the oil pan is same color, same texture. But it doesn't seem to mate to the original surface. I can see a clean mating surface, with 'gasket' lines and residue from the old oil pan. The drain plug is the updated one from the f150. And it looks like there is more heat shielding on the pan. The biggest reason I am puzzled is because their reason for replacing the entire oil pan was that the gasket only came with a new one. So why would they have used 'rtv' to seal this?

With some black rtv type stuff ?

If someone with the 2.7 could please upload pictures of their oil pan assembly onto here. I think my dealer put the wrong pan on, and used sealent instead of the gasket.

Thank you ! It was just Plasti Dip and some creative taping, it looks like a botched job (sprayed at 40 °F). But it's holding up well to 30 rock chips now.

That light never used to turn red because the cross street has no traffic. But guess they decided to activate the cycle in preparation for the opening of the street. I think its worth noting my edge had 80 Km put on it at the factory for testing, so the brakes could have been improperly bedded during that time. 2 weeks ago the grabby brake syndrome hit real hard. The car was sitting outside in the freezing cold for ~4 hrs, I was leaving a parking lot and had to stop to let someone cross and as soon as I touched the pedal the brakes locked up and triggered abs. This is after taking it to the dealer to have the brake system looked at for the second time. They gave me the runaround like usual, didn't even document a brake inspection on the work order. Last week I dropped it off at another dealer, they called me back after 1 hr saying they ordered a new booster and agreed that the brakes were way to touchy. So after this booster replacement the brake discs and pads are going to be switched out to the z23 kit and I plan on switching out the lines eventually.

Ive actually got the same camera, I ended up running the rear cable through the top part of the headliner above the windsheild, down/ behind the a pillar trim, underneath the door sills, and then along the floor (under the carpet or trim pieces) then up the rear door weatherstripping, through the c pillar trim and then out up to the inner trunk lid ( the camera wouldn't work properly on the rear window due to the angle) and then i stuck it onto the rear hatch trim with some adhesive.

Got the 3rd one done at the dealer, this time even the steering wheel angle was off. Pulls a lot less now, fairly happy with the result. The steering wheel is still slightly crooked when driving straight. Dealer once again didn't give me a copy of the before/ after angles. I had to annoy the service manager to get the 'after' angles.

That could be a result of a faulty wheel sensor, considering the amount of technology that controls our vehicles now. Were you driving straight, or at an angle? An angle on the wheels could have triggered traction control if you accelerated to the point where a wheel lost traction, but power should have kicked right back in once traction was regained. A connector could be loose somewhere, your dealer should be able to determine where the fault is coming from if they can replicate the situation while hooked up with a scan tool. AWD is active when starting (always), at low speeds, flooring it (up to a point), or when the system recognizes inclement conditions. It shuts off when the pedal input is light to normal, at high speeds, and when the computer thinks you dont need the rear wheels to be powered. "dont buy it for snow" yet to encounter snow that it can't get through. But, the rear wheels only turning is super strange because this awd system is heavily fwd biased so there is certainly something wrong and your dealer should have done more than just reset the ecu/pcu.

I was surprised aswell, either the rear glass has a different composition than the front or the blade that was used was harder than the glass. Luckily in your case the side windows should be laminated and won't break as easily.

Finally got these in after 5 weeks of waiting Tires: Continental Wintercontact Si 245-50-20 Rims: Niche Targa 20X8.5

Here's one option http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2015-2016-Ford-Edge-4pc-Door-Sill-Step-Protector-Threshold-Shield-Pads-Cover-/282133724754?fits=Year%3A2015%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&hash=item41b07afe52:g:5gcAAOSwMtxXrjSy&vxp=mtr Or as Burrcold said, grab some 3M vinyl / protection film and just cut and fit it however you please. I used some 3M 1080 carbon fiber vinyl off amazon and ended up with a decent result.

Are the fuse taps legs shorter than the oem micro2 fuse? If not; insert it and right before it should lock in, try to push at an angle toward the firewall (gently) and the fuse tap should lock in enough to stay in place.

So the shop that I got some tinting done from accidentally cut into the glass on the rear hatch. Spoke with them already. The question is, should I get the windshield replaced or repaired? The cut can be seen and felt. Its pretty deep, on the outer edge of the glass. Insurance deductible is high for the shop and for myself, so any suggestions other than going through insurance would be great.

Yeah the lower panels have to be taken out first, luckily its fairly easy, remove the trunk loading trim piece(held on with some bolts and clips) and then the large left and right side pieces are one complete assembly so just pry them off carefully. I sent you a message with some of the manual info that'll hopefully help.

Just checked the shop manual and it looks like you have to remove the entire c/d pillar trim panel. However it isnt clear whether the speaker cover is just snapped in or if its a part of the entire trim panel. It looks more like its snapped in, but from the backside.

Do your rattles get worse during temperature changes? Mine may be the result of having the stereo up too loud (obviously to drown out every other piece of trim in this car that rattles)

Duly noted, slightly disappointing though. Will do titan01, not sure when everything will be completely done by. It'll probably take some time to get the sound right. gjb89, good read, the poster 'ecoboosted's system does sound pretty good, they did end up quieting it down though. We'll see how bad the edge drones soon enough. Update 12/01/17: In about 3 weeks I'll be having specifics about the system back from the shop (their exhaust guys are taking time off) total is going to be around $1000 CAD for them to do a complete cat back install. I'll post back with pics and whatnot whenever it gets finished

The rear muffler is literally caked in carbon... can only imagine what the valves look like now. And as wwwperfa_zn0w said, slugging doesn't do it any good either, cause low rpm acceleration usually makes more boost and burns more fuel as opposed to quickly up shifting and accelerating. Either way, 350km/tank is so bad, something is definitely up. cds71, I think that kp613's trip meter is lying about the 7.2L/100 km as kp613 said they only get 420km/tank at most, which would mean the trip meter should read something 15+L/100km (at 420 km/68 L) which is crazy for mixed driving.

Too tinny or too loud with the resonator out?

Have a consultation with a shop next week for a custom exhaust. I asked them how much just for a rear muffler delete/replacement and it was only 150 CAD installed. There is a reason why I think the MRT system is stupidly priced.

Having my oil pan replaced soon, its been leaking since day 1. I assumed the oil was just coming from the drain plug as the tech who did the first oil change did a super sloppy job (I even had oil on my headlights). But while I was doing the last oil change I accidentally bumped into the felt covers and oil began to drip down onto me, looked up to the mating surfaces on the pan and realized it was fckd. Luckily dealer decided to order the entire oil pan assembly as opposed to just patching it up.

Anyone have suggestions on how to minimize the speaker and door panel rattles on the 15+ edges. I have had the dealer take a look and their fix was to turn the bass and mid-range down to negative 3 (LLLLLLOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLL) Everything rattles at 30% + volume with the sound settings all at zero (or neutral). Shit shouldn't rattle like this from the factory, with factory sound settings. In the spring I plan on tearing apart the door panels and stuffing sound deadening materials everywhere, and trying to rubber tape the speakers points of contact with surfaces etc.