Beezz

Yeah thats not normal at all then, have the dealer take a look. 350 in the city is horribly low for the 2.0L. I drive like a goon and still get 450-550 km to a tank in mixed with the 2.7L.

7.2L / 100km is good. The 2.0L is rated worse than what you're getting. But if you max out at 420 km / tank then the computer is lying about your fuel economy. Its probably closer to the city rating of the 2.0L. I have seen my fuel econ get worse since the start of winter, which is expected. And as lildisco said, if the engine isnt broken in yet then that also impacts it aswell.

Canadian Tire had Pennzoil ultra platinum for around $35 for a 5 L jug recently, normally $60 each. You can also submit a rebate request http://www.pennzoil.com/en_ca/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/promotion-1b.html There is probably something similar for the USA, and other oil brands.

Use what will match your driving habits and requirements. Looked in owners manual at the 2.7 Specs Chart: Recommended motor oil (U.S.): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP Recommended motor oil (Canada): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W30-LSP12 Recommended motor oil (Mexico): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil MXO-5W30-QSP Optional motor oil (U.S. and Mexico): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil XO-5W30-QFS Optional motor oil (Canada): WSS-M2C946-A Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil CXO-5W30-LFS12 So Full Synthetic or Blend is fine according to Ford.

My solution was to put M-D Building Products 1033 & 1025 weather stripping wherever it would still allow the doors to close. 90% of the dirt stays out now. Just cut some drain holes to meet the door drains and you'll be safe. Use whatever thick and thin weatherstripping you can get that has a strong adhesive. Anyone else hate how dirty our rear hatches get? The amount of turbulence the 2nd gen creates is surprising (super visible driving in rain)

I found that the fuses that are labeled unused or spare in the manual are still powered (with both acc and batt function). I also found 2 fuses labeled unused in the manual that had the fuse plugged in the 'correct' way, which was odd because the rest of the 'unused' fuses were plugged in so the numbers were upside down. Given this, I assumed I could tap into any of them as long as it was done safely. I've been running a dashcam off fuse 37 (used fuse 23 for 2 months) (fuse 37 is for the heated steering wheel which I dont have) and fuse 16 for 5 months now without any problems. Has anyone had issues with 'add a fuse' connectors not staying plugged into the fuse socket? Mine wouldn't stay in so I had to put a piece of tape across the fuse box. I put the ground underneath another ground located behind the slide out tray towards the steering column. Fuse taps: https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/blackboxmycar-essential-installation-tools/products/add-a-fuse (micro 2 option)

Whenever its less than 70 degrees outside this problem occurs. When it slips, its within the first few minutes of driving, R to D and D to R is the worst, 2nd to 3rd is usually flaky as well. I can see the rpm dip as soon as I push the gas pedal. The rpm continues to fluctuate while the trans figures out which gear to get into, then once it selects the gear its almost like the clutches disengage the trans and the engine rpm surges down then up. Then when it catches finally the rpm levels out and then the car moves. A comparison to the R to D and D to R issue is being in a car with someone who's learning to drive stick. The car just lunges when starting off. The odd thing about the grinding is when I am stopped and shift from drive to neutral the grinding stops, when I shift back to drive the grinding comes back and the trans slams into gear. (The slamming isn't that noticeable while driving) The slamming is distinctly different than rough or hard shifts, it makes audible sounds. I drove the dealers 15 sport a few times and it had the same amount of kms yet had none of the issues I have described (driven in same type of weather). Maybe my transmission is just a dud.

Checked out a few places, most said I would have to pay the full alignment cost even if they only checked to see if the angles were out of spec (and didn't adjust anything). L O L. Its electric assist steering. I have noticed that the steering wheel moves slightly even without input and without changing road surfaces. I am going to ask the dealer to look at the steering system. Thank you for pointing out this angle to the problem.

At 24'000 km's. After cold starts, the trans slips/ has a long delay in actually moving when I press the gas (it hesitates). For about 2-3 minutes after a cold start whenever I am sitting at a red light / stop sign there is a large amount of vibration and noise transferred into the cabin. If I shift into neutral the vibration stops and the 'grinding' noise stops. If I stick it back into drive I can hear the transmission literally SLAM into gear and then the problem comes right back. After 5-10 ish minutes the problem subsides as the temps increase. I am seriously concerned about the longevity of this transmission now.

If I cross a solid line while going around a curve or sharp bend the lane keeping system pulls me even further over the line before deactivating from my steering effort. It sometimes pulls me over the line if the lane markings end while driving. Very odd behaviour, thankful I can turn the system completely off.

They claim only 59 vehicles are affected, but still the rest of us should be aware just in case. FROM FORD: "Ford issues safety compliance recall for certain 2015-16 Ford Edge vehicles to update antilock braking system (ABS) modules Ford is issuing a safety compliance recall for approximately 60 2015-16 Ford Edge vehicles to update antilock braking system (ABS) modules. Incorrect ABS module software may have been loaded into some vehicles when they were in for service. The incorrect software could disable electronic stability control (ESC), engine torque control, traction control (T/C), the warning lamp/indicator, the electronic parking brake (EPB) light and the EPB drive-away release function. ABS and electronic brake distribution (EBD) remain fully functional and the EPB can be applied. Ford is not aware of any accidents or injuries associated with this issue. Affected vehicles include certain 2015-16 Ford Edge vehicles built at Oakville Assembly Plant, Feb. 9, 2015 to Aug. 12, 2016, which may have had software programmed during service between Aug. 6, 2016 and Sept. 28, 2016. There are approximately 59 vehicles affected including 53 in the United States, three in Canada and two in Mexico" http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM542567/RMISC-16V733-8204.pdf http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM545509/RCMN-16V733-0260.pdf http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM542566/RCMN-16V733-4333.pdf http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM542683/RCAK-16V733-1725.pdf http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM541457/RCLRPT-16V733-5077.PDF

Dont even care about their bmw comparison, the Hyundai Sante-fe sport and Nissan Murano both had better fit and finish than the edge. both directly compete with the edge. lol cost reduction = 64 grand pre-discounts. It would take 1 employee 5 minutes to run through a vehicle and check things that I mentioned and flag them to be fixed. Sure that might raise costs, but minimally. Most people would pay a few hundred more knowing that they wouldn't have QC issues. Dipped , wasnt that bad, but over spray was nasty, even with masking off the entire rear. dip has held up well to 1 winter and dozens of pressure / hand washes.

door might not be aligned or seated properly, check the gaps between the door and the body.

The sound of our people

I have the exact same problem. It happens at the same stop sign, same location, every day. For the last month mine has been going into red alarm mode whenever I leave a parking lot and there's a sidewalk/ curb.

Why the shit did Ford use micro2 and micro3 fuses on the inside panel. I cannot find a single place that sells micro fuse taps, or micro fuses in Ontario. Only option is to buy them online and wait 3 months to get them from china. Luckily the fuse taps are available on dash cam websites. Update: Dealer sells the fuses for 10 bucks a piece. Haven't been able to find anything online that actually fits correctly.

What is everyone using this winter? Here's what I'm thinking : Tires: Continental Winter Contact SI 245-50-20 or the Bridgestone Blizzak DMV2 Rims: http://www.1010tires.com/Wheels/Winter+Rims/Touren+TR60/3260-2814Gw?vehicleid=136456 or http://www.1010tires.com/Wheels/Replika/R189/R189-2085-31BN-45C634?vehicleid=136456(another member has these ones : http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21366-see-my-new-black-20-inch-winter-rims/) Anyone have experience with either of these tires?

Are these the ones you got Tjm623 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/301730569779?var=600561445762 ?? (says they fit 2015 +)

Only reason is the alignment shops charge $300+ in my area ( for a 4 wheel alignment) and I didn't want to spend that if the dealer would 'fix' it for free. But considering they messed up twice now, I dont have a choice.

Too bad the price doesn't make sense, $559.99 USD for the MRT mufflers.

I'm booking my 3rd 4-wheel alignment since June. 1st one was at 10000 km's 2nd one at 13000 km's and now this one at 21000 km's. The techs who have worked on my car don't know wtf they are doing. Both times I didn't get a printout of what the before and after angles were (apparently the printer on their multi-thousand dollar machine wasn't working). The tires were so far out of alignment from the factory that the 1st time I didn't get charged (abnormal tire wear and car pulled to the left) . The second time was because the car continued to pull heavily to the left. And now after a 1500 km road trip the front tires are abnormally worn, and the car was a pain to keep straight on the highway. I have to get this alignment done properly since I am switching to a set of winter tire's and rims I really dont want the tires to get worn in badly. Hopefully its done correctly this time, I'm not looking forward to wasting another 3 hours at the dealership. And for those wondering, no I haven't run over any nasty potholes between any of the alignments.