Beezz

See but that's the issue, I have dirt and water going onto the door jambs/sills as well.

Dealer service guys said there was nothing they could do. Talked to the collision centre manager and he said even if they replaced all the weather stripping the problem wouldn't be fixed, went on to say its a design flaw. IMO: Realistically if the weatherstripping was thicker, or the doors were aligned to close tighter, nothing would be getting in, except on the rear doors where the wheel well meets the bottom of the door.

Has anyone actually gotten their dealer to replace the weatherstripping along the bottom of the doors free of charge? The inner parts of my doors are always getting covered in road grime and mud and there are small rust spots forming already. I'm going to let my dealer take a look soon.

I tried the new set of bulbs, same issue. I used a multi meter to check the voltage from each terminal in the socket and couldn't get any readings. Guess I will have to custom wire them next spring.

Every single 15+ edge I've seen has misaligned body panels, which is sad. If the gap is super bad then sure you should take it to the dealer (pray they don't break clips), or if you know how adjust the panel yourself. I removed my rear bumper for another purpose and when I put it back on it the gaps were much closer and aligned. Its up too you, if it bothers you then perhaps get the dealer to look at it, but if there is a big chance they could break something then just dont bother.

I think the bulbs might just be defective, I ordered another set just to be sure. If they dont work the second time around then its definitely got to do with the factory wiring. The bulbs should be operating with the 3 separate connections in the 7440 connector, but since the oem bulb was single filament, 1 wire supplies the power to 2 connections, so it would indicate one connector gets a constant voltage when the parking lights are on, and the other gets a higher voltage with the turn signal. (there could be 2 wires running through the 1 sleeve though) However the factory bulbs do have a different connection than these leds, I think the oem bulbs have 1 less connecting wire coming out of them. The switchback should be getting a constant voltage from one connector and alternating voltage from another. I'll be sure to check the voltage when I get the new set of bulbs, dont want to deal with the housings taking 50 minutes to get back in xD. Anyways: yesterday this was happening https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFVktTdlB1TlJubmcThey work for 5 seconds, then flicker, then work again... I wouldn't care if they flickered, as long as it is a consistent flicker it won't look odd.

Find the service manager and drag them with you to your car, if it is unlocked today, I suggest you do this as you drive off http://www.reactiongifs.com/r/cnvrtble.gif On a more serious note, did they provide you with a free rental for the time being? Was your mkx leased or purchased (I find that people who paid in full don't really get the same attention from the dealer)

^ agreed

the bulbs : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017LHF2P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1\ It actually pulsates like that to the naked eye. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017LHF2P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1\ I wouldn't buy them until this issue gets sorted out though

I'll probably have to ask the dealer to reprogram it then, the thing is, it doesn't seem like hyper flash because the rest of the lights signal properly. Like the switchbacks work properly when the key is in acc mode and the car is in gear, just not when the engine is running. They were plug n play resistors with the 7440 connectors on both ends (one melted after being on for 1 minute LOL) I tried plugging them in, in both directions, same with the bulbs, but the bulbs wouldn't even power on with the resistors installed. The bulb out indicator went out though, so the resistors do work. They are a set of AutoEC 744X bulbs. Could you link me to the diode dynamics bulbs.

I am running into a very strange issue with these bulbs. When the engine is not running they operate normally, when the engine is running they flicker/strobe whenever the turn signal is activated. See the attached videos: Hazard ON, Engine OFF (same applies for turn signal activation) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFZURfdFdpNEwzaVk Hazard ON, Engine ON (same applies for turn signal activation) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFU282N2JGWUxjdXM Switchback function demo: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFZ1VwT0l1dVFjRWc With headlights on they are dimmed to white, turn signal activates amber flashing In all cases it doesn't matter what lighting mode is selected, when the engine is off the turn signals don't flicker/strobe , when the engine is on they do flicker/strobe. I have tried using an inline resistor and it did absolutely nothing. I have seen the turn signals work properly when the engine is running, but its once in a blue moon. Anyone know what is going on?

Usually when towing or when there is a lot of weight in the car. 90% of the time its in auto, and yeah totally agree, its much faster when it shifts on its own. I'm almost at 18'000 km Now at 21'000 km and the issues are getting worse.

^ still would have been quieter

So I have noticed more and more that when I have the transmission in sport and shift manually it shifts super hard. When downshifting the car lurches and makes abrupt jerks. When downshifting into first gear there is a loud clatter and an excessive lurch. It sounds so bad for the transmission. Another issue, the transmission takes f o r e v e r to shift from drive to reverse / reverse to drive. Many times when I shift and then push the gas nothing happens it feels like the clutch is slipping and gears are grinding until it finally engages. When I say forever I mean longer than 5 seconds from when you release the gear selector to pressing the gas. At certain points after a cold start (1-2 days) when I change from D-R or R-D and push the gas, the clutch slips and the car lunges and then once the clutch catches itself the car moves. I'll be seeing my dealer soon, however I wanted to see if anyone else has experience any similar issues. Update: Dealer #1 said there is no problem.

15 sport: From factory: 1 paint run on the front driver side fender. 1 paint chip under driver side taillight. Dirt in the paint in 2 separate locations. 11 months in: Paint chip on hood, paint chips all over the front bumper, scratches on the door panels (not from me) Paint on inner door panels is beginning to wear away (high intrusion of dirt from the weatherstripping on the underside of the car) rust is visible (I apply fluid film to any visible spots). Rust specs visible on exterior paint, can be removed when the car is clayed and sealed. I feel as though the paint isn't very thick on my edge, simply because there is a heck of a lot of rock chip/bug damage everywhere and the paint has worn down near the weatherstripping on some doors. The paint looks fantastic from a slight distance, but if you get up real close, you start to notice things.

yeah they have these pins that they lock on to, but you can pull them up to remove them. That hook was a great idea, but yeah it doesn't seem secure at all on the top with the weatherstripping, if the hook was bigger then it would have been fine. It's slipped off on me a few times, luckily I wasn't digging through the bins.

They should've copied the Germans and added a electronic beep, like many bmw's have.

do you know the SSM # I would like to have it before I go to the dealer and get brushed off once again

Did you have the key in your pocket? If so, you could have accidentally pushed the liftgate remote open button. I've done that to the panic button too many times, so embarrassing.

I understand the reason for the double honk, but damn why the hell couldn't they make it a quite double honk. Its so loud that every time i even think of getting out the car with it running, I stop and take the fob out of my pocket and throw it on a seat.

True, those are light bar / tail light swaps. I meant physically adding leds/ led strips into the bar, and then wiring them. This would take a lot of work and is risky if you have to open up the lights.

No problem, yeah it appears that way

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFb0hEdTFmVk9nUnc https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFRDFQaERyTmJPSkU

Nick has pictures of it removed on another post, if you want the service guide I can send you the link for the applicable files.

LOL those people are idiots