Tjm623

Yes, This article section 1 explains more in detail for those wondering http://www.edmunds.com/car-leasing/four-ways-to-spot-a-good-lease.html

Yes you can get a sub under there. Notice anything about the eBay link you posted / other suggested items? They are all no name garbage subwoofers. Why? Because that is an absolute terrible place to put a sub, let alone a upward firing one. No legitimate audio maker would make a box for under front seat, the sound stage would be a mess with that much low end so close to tweeters. No halfway decent car manufacturer would even attempt to put that in their car either. If an SEL had a OEM sub, they would market it just as they do for the Sony system. I literally just looked under that seat the box I have is no more than 8" wide. It is as I said either an amp, as you are saying that's elsewhere than I'm highly confident it is the remote start module, or some other module. I can say with 1000% certainty that what is under my seat is not a sub. Unless they've come out with nanoSubs. Which has not happened

Yes bugs happen, but a issue like that would get kicked down the first time it was caught and a production fix would be pushed soon there after. That's what has me leaning more towards the functionality is not in place in the software. We will never know whose right until we see the source code (good luck getting ford to give you that) haha

Such an easy fix in regards to software. Simply IF Statement. If current system has navigation then don't allow install of version xxxx. Vice versa if you don't have it and try a nav sync version. Lazy programmers

Right, that's what I was saying a few posts up someone was saying they should make it so that hitting the accelerator begins the process. To which I said that would be an awful idea.

The sub in Sony vehicles is actually in cargo area of passenger side, it replaces the cubby hole the rest of us have. It could be an amp for the 9 speaker system? Under seats is usually an amp location. If there was a sub under a seat a typical spot is under rear seats, more room and like enigma said seat doesn't move up and down. I'll take a look at my SEL and see what I see under there UPDATE: not sure how to post pictures via mobile site, but that is definitely either an amp or possibly the remote start module. No way it's a subwoofer. Small silver box with two cords and a black brace over the top. Right underneath the front of the seat. If you move seat all the way back and to up position it'll practically smack you in the face

I can tell you if you were to lease a 2016 edge in 3 years you'd be looking at anywhere from 20-23k residual value. Anything under 50% after lease terms is consider a good leasing vehicle. The edge I tried leasing was around 56%. With that said the more value lost up front the cheaper it is at end of lease. So you could see a lower payment on the buyout portion. If your gonna lease a ford it's in my opinion to stick with the big name models. The escapes, f150s and fusions lease very well. Incentives and what not. My eyes popped out of my head at what my lease number was for a '16 SEL AWD with $0 down

To me "gas to move" shouldn't be a thing. It's release brake to move and gas to accelerate. Regardless I'd have to assume the amount of accidents with these systems would increase ten fold if suddenly you had to work your gas pedal to operate it. Think of the amount of "person drives car through store window" stories you hear about every year. again anytime you are in a tight maneuvering situation I firmly believe the last thing your foot should be touching is the gas pedal. Unless it's an extreme slope or the wheels are stuck type of situation.

This could work, if the car was actually owned. But this sounds like a dealer was using this car to drive around themselves. When I went to buy mine they had a 2016 titanium with 6k miles on it...sitting on showroom floor. Had it marked down to about z plan price, wouldn't let me use z plan on top of price. Which I found strange it's still a new model year vehicle. I should have been able too. Sounds like either dealer was going off odometer print out they had too and never actually checked the vehicle or your dealing with a shady one. Good Luck

Do they illuminate?

Thanks Nick, he ended up responding tonight. Guess he didn't get a notification from PayPal an order had been placed

Well still waiting, it's been 4 days since I placed my order haven't heard anything besides an auto confirmation that I ordered something. Emailed them yesterday asking for follow up, still haven't heard anything. Not to happy as for $18 shipping you'd think I'd have my products in less than 5 days!

Someone somewhere else has mentioned 5 years which sounded a bit to good to be true. 6 months seems to be the norm for subscription trial. I'll most likely dump the radio portion and keep the travellink. Depending on cost. I think I saw travellink alone is $9 a month... Pretty ridiculous to me

I'm not sure if forcing the gas to move approach is the way to go either. I've never used a park assist feature, to me it still falls in the "gimmicky" type feature. If the car came with it fine, but I know how to park and wouldn't pay for it. That being said, you really shouldn't be having to use the accelerator to park. Unless you are an incline, that type of maneuvering should be done with simple brake pedal manipulation alone. Driving with someone who stomps the gas to pull in a parking spot, pull out of one, or simply in reverse to me is quite frightening. Used to drive commercially and been through many safety programs. You would be shocked at the amount of accidents caused by simply being in reverse. One of the many rules I've applied to my daily driving now , is "Back before Stopping" or leave yourself an out. I back into a spot rather than pull in and back out when I'm leaving. The information around you is still fresh when this is done. You've literally just arrived and scanned the area for pedestrians / vehicles. Instead of what many people do when they go to leave which is walk directly to driver door get in and back out. Never checking if something is behind them, on the passenger side, under the wheels etc Sorry for the rant, but I'm not a huge fan of this system and to hear people wanting to accelerate to assist sounds like a recipe for disaster to me

For those that lost it, how long was travel link trial? I'd much rather keep that then the radio portion. The weather map is quite nice, same with gas prices. I know cell phone has apps, but it's nice to not need to even take phone out of pocket in this car.

I think it actually uses its own sensors that are located along the sides of bumpers. (Vaguely recall reading manual on this). It stated to not cover them with anything. Not sure if you have bumper stickers / or a 3M type clear protector that may be obstructing it too. Hopefully it's something small like that, saves a trip to dealer!

Do you have lane sensing? Or the other lane assist feature? Maybe sensitivity on those is a little to high and it's picking up a vehicle in lane next to you pulling up to light? Not entirely sure how that system works as I don't have it. But a suggestion none the less prior to dealer visit. I know when I've turned my edge around in driveway rather quickly it went nuts on me thinking some bushes next to driveway was cross traffic. Just some ideas like I said. I could be entirely off though

Haven't had that, but have had some very hard shifts where the car almost bucks. The manual does state that for up to 3k?might be 1, I forget the exact number) miles, you shouldn't pay attention to any whacky tranny issues as its breaking in. not sure if traction control plays a part in transmission though. I noticed today on wet roads that AWD was kicking in on almost every slow start from a red light, haven't noticed this on dry pavement but also don't normally keep wheel power distribution menu up while driving...I'll test when it's dry again

Coming from a 6.5' bed on my F150, where I had to three point turn the entire length of a parking garage one time. I feel like I'm driving a Mini Cooper! Probably not the best judge of turn radius between that and driving trucks commercially for a long time, but this thing turns nice and tight to me. Does have some blind spots up front though, you can't see the nose very well at times.

The camera area is unacceptable. The rest of the pics I'm having a hard time figuring out what I'm looking at on the car for reference? Could you post some wider shots of the vehicle part? The only thing I've noticed is a small chip on my rear wing(looks like a rock could have been me). And on the edge of my liftgate so clear coat drips at the base in a corner. My wife's '17 will be going in tomorrow as inside the body channel when liftgate is open is a about 6 small areas missing paint. Almost looks like something got stuck to it while drying and someone tried to pull it off. Other then that I think this edge is one of the most well built vehicles I've bought. Super quiet no squeaks or rattles, nothing broken. I had my '14 f150 in the shop 4 times in first month for a speaker that kept blowing. Once 20 mins after driving away from them fixing it. Needless to say I replaced those shortly there after

Sorry new around here...what exactly is the APIM? I'm assuming it's the module that actually controls and contains the software for the screen? Keep seeing that acronym thrown around.

Agreed, it doesn't help that their one real subscriber "pull" Howard Stern is rarely live. I don't listen to him much, but if I'm in the mood for background noise I'll put it on. I can't tell you how many times I've turned it on in the AM and it's a clip from 5 years ago, only to turn it back on for drive home and it's the exact same clip again!

I have a '16 no audible noise at highway speeds, slight whistle with Windows open, but to me that is expected. My wife's '17 escape now that's a different story! Sounds like your grandpa whistling while he whittles a twig in the barn all the way down the highway!! That sound comes more from behind drivers head though, almost the top corner of door seam

That pic you posted in regards to your "glare line" sure does look like the car is on an incline. While that and your OEM HID picture may be the same driveway, they are by no means the same distance or angle towards the garage. As Wizard said nobody is arguing that OEM or true HIDs are the route to go if possible and affordable. But, the "evidence" you keep trying to use are different vehicles, aftermarket projectors, pictures in that the angle and distance from an object are different are not going to win many people over. We get it, you don't like PnP kits! Also, yes fog lights do light up foreground...guess what? The vehicle this forum is about...DOESNT HAVE THEM! So why wouldn't I want a little more light up front. When I have fogs I don't ever shut them off anyways, no difference to me. But I'll assume your going to tell me I don't know how to use my headlights for admitting that. The fact of the matter is forums make up a very small number of actual vehicle owners...and for some reason some of those owners feel that if you don't go the most expensive route on every mod you are doing things incorrectly. It's not the case. Plain and simple. Plenty of "cheaper" products work just as well, but the guy who spent quadruple the money is never going to admit that. I think we found that guy.

I get offers as low as $5 a month in the mail since I had left it expire on an old vehicle. If you want it call and tell them you'll sign up but are only willing to pay "X". See if they play ball