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1004ron

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Posts posted by 1004ron

  1. Firstly, keep it to this thread - stop cross-posting.

     

    If air got into the system then you'll need equipment to bleed the ABS system - sounds like your 3 mechanics aren't suitably qualified and equipped, so consider taking it to the dealership or find a reputable independent shop.

     

    Note, I haven't read your first post because the wall of text doesn't make for an easy read - it wouldn't take much to use a little punctuation.

  2. 18 hours ago, RPGR90s said:

     If I have my Iphone plugged in and Google Play is working, I have to un-plug the phone, then go into the home screen menu to turn the heat off.

    I'm a relatively new wireless CarPlay user - I can switch from any app such as Waze to Sync, turn on or off the steering wheel heat and while on the Sync screen hit "maps" and I'm back in Waze, or any other Carplay app.

  3. 6 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

    On a 2019 Edge, theres a couple of methods you can use to find your code if you only have one key and no owners manual key card.

     

    You can give your dealer your vin and he can decode it to find Ford's manufacturing number. They ca also sell and cut you another key. 

    My local dealership said it was a major undertaking to try and get the keypad code from Ford, and to date they'd never actually accomplished that.

     

    With the photo that I had of my keys with the code they cut a physical key for me which allowed me to get into the car - this was when I accidently locked both sets of key fobs and keys inside the car.

  4. On 12/19/2022 at 6:53 PM, Fishmobile said:

    My 2011 edge has 190,000 miles and seems to kill when idling at stoplights or stop signs. Similar to the shudder issues that other vehicles are facing, the rpms will jump 500 to 1000, and then it just kills, without the shaking. To moderate, I am able to hold the brake and give it some gas until I am able to go. It will not do ths if the car is in park however and seems to idle fine. It doesn't throw a code and therefore I am not sure about next steps to go forward fixing it. Any thoughts or solutions? Torque converter?

    What are you using to read codes?

     

    With the symptoms you describe I'd be surprised if there's no stored codes.

  5. In a couple of months I'll be at 92K miles and plan to do the second drain and fill of the transmission.

     

    Where's the best deal on fluid?

     

    Amazon 5qrt X 2 = $74.66 (incl shipping and tax).

     

    RockAuto 5qrt X 2 = $68.44 (incl shipping and tax).

     

     

  6. My 2017 Sport has just over 85K miles on it and I've never topped up the coolant and it's still on the mark where it was when I bought it new in March 2017.

     

    I baby my Sport but have seen many here that give theirs a good beating, and don't recall any posts here reporting issues with the 2.7L.

     

    The decision to replace one or both head gaskets would be based on what's found - if it appears that it overheated at some point then pretty obvious both heads need to be done.

    • Sad 1
  7. 18 hours ago, bofus said:

    Ok, I just got back from a 40 mile drive and I gunned it a quite a few times and saw white puffy smoke. I let the car sit for 30 minutes on the flat and I'm about a pint low on coolant in the reservoir. So, I think I'm burning coolant. That would normally suggest head gasket. Is the turbo cooled at all by the coolant, or just fed oil? It's odd that I see nothing when normally driving and only when I stomp on it does it happen.

     

    I guess I'll be booking a trip to the dealer for evaluation. Looks like it was first titled in november 2018, so engine/powertrain should cover a head gasket, right.  Right?

    5 years, or 60,000 miles for the powertrain warranty, so you should be covered.

     

    Yes, a head gasket should be covered unless they find and can prove its related to something you did - can't think of anything.

     

    The manual calls for coolant replacement at 10 years, so it can't be blamed on that.

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