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1004ron

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Posts posted by 1004ron

  1. Sorry to hear that.

     

    I'm interested to see what position the insurance take on the BC Racing coil overs - my thoughts are that you could insist on OEM but doubt that they'll entertain any upgrades.

    It might consider it a liability risk to them in the event a non-OEM part results in a severe accident.

     

    Hope they don't use the performance parts to weasel out of their responsibility. 

  2. Thanks for those links @enigma-2

     

    This has been bugging me for a long time and I've seen two DIY methods that I'm considering.

     

    The one in the attached PDF uses 3/4" pieces of coolant hose with hose clamps, but I'm leaning towards the sway bar clamps.

     

    Just not sure what size sway bar clamps to get, 3/4" or 7/8"  - might get both sizes off Amazon.

     

    Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Carbon Steel with Black Oxide Plating, 7/8" Bore Size, Set Screw

     

     

     

    TSB 18-2361.pdf

  3. Today I installed the RH CV Axle.

     

    The only battle I had was extracting the axle - all YT videos show smacking the inner joint with a hammer - I even went to Lowes to get a heavier hammer, and that didn't work - see the section of all-thread and nut in the photos - I cut a length of all-thread to fit snugly between the inner joint and a bolt head on the PTU, then holding it with a pliers I backed the nut out and as it reached the end of its thread the axle was free to extract - way better than beating on it.

     

    The I noticed the friction material had come off the outboard brake pad - went to Autozone and got a set of new pads - found the same thing on the LH.

     

    The LH CV Axle cured the vibration but I could still just a little at exactly 60mph with acceleration - that is gone now.

    The inner joint on the RH axle had similar wear divots, just not as deep - the lubricant didn't run out like oil as was the case with the LH, but it looked an odd brown color.

     

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    Screenshot 2025-11-26 at 9.43.06 PM.png

    • Like 3
  4. 32 minutes ago, ALIWEB20 said:

    Hello
    I have a simple 2011 Ford Edge that after replacing the spark plugs, it draws air from the manifold and the engine draws less air. The mechanic said the problem might be with the throttle valve and he still hasn't been able to fix the problem. The main problem is that the engine runs at idle and makes a hissing sound every few seconds and the engine runs poorly. It seems like the car is short of breath and the hissing sound gets louder when you give it gas.
    Please help me, what should I do?

    Welcome.

     

    What you've written doesn't give us much to work with and suggest a fix and based on what you've written it doesn't look like you DIY.

     

    Any suggestions here we expect that you'll convey to what appears to be an inept "mechanic" which isn't ideal - it would be far better to seek the services of a local reputable real mechanic.

  5. New CV Axle installed and a trip on the interstate confirms that was the issue all this time.

     

    Much easier job than the control arm replacement and with that said I might just go ahead and replace the right side.

     

    The old inner joint felt just a little rough and the reason can be seen in the photos - also the lube appeared to be gear oil, not a grease, or maybe it was grease when it started out.

     

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    IMG_3736.JPG

    IMG_3737.JPG

    • Like 2
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