thesavo

I am not ready to condem the cv axles ad the noise is gone and speeds under 30mph . I have an alignment today and will followup if any $ sounds happen at highway speeds. Then the only issue will be the parking brake on the driver's side. That can be tomorrow's issue.

Just the opposite. I just took it for a test drive. I wasn't able to get up to 60 MPH, however the sound is gone at slower speeds. Since I removed the rear Knuckle (spider?) I want to get a 4-wheel alignment before I get it up to highway speeds. The parking brake not holding on the driver side will need to be addressed though. The Passenger side parking brake is holding the vehicle off the park pawl.

I have installed new wheel bearings and even with both wheels off the ground, they move much smoother than before. I also replaced the sway bar links, and the passenger-side wheel-speed sensor. (Buy an inductive heater if you don't have one. /Chef's_Kiss) I am still not sure if I have a defective replacement driver caliper or a cable issue as that side does not hold as well as the passenger side. The service procedure Pinpoint test says to 1. check for broken cable. (driver side cable shows no damage) 2. check for pad thickness (Brand new). 3. Brake pedal and control cable move when disconnected from the equalizer 4. Disconnect cable from caliper and move the cable in and out of the conduit. - yes - replace the caliper - no - replace the cable on the affected side. Also, I am able to move the parking-lever on the back of the driver caliper manually (no cable attached) to actuate the parking brake. The lever moves more freely and farther on the Driver side than the passenger. Again, no cable attached. The service manual shows no adjustment to be made here, only at the "equalizer" I did try to remove the nut holding the parking lever to the caliper, and tighten the inner bolt as shown on some performance calipers, but the lever stays on the pivot bolt. The Driver side cable seems to expose more of the center of the cable at "equalizer" when setting the parking brake. I seem to have conflicting symptoms

We shall see. I can't say as my wife made no mention a noise leading into our last trip in late September. The noise started late into the trip. I'll update as it progresses though.

Sadly as another friend was called in to assist, the passenger side bearing we started on was not in a trustworthy state of being tested. Through I will say we didn't impart the same force on the driver side bearing as we were able to remove all the remaining bolts to remove the knuckle. It did have some drag while trying to spin. As a note. There is special tool to separate the knuckle from the control arm. Though do remember to loosely re-install the nut on the joint connecting the knuckle to the control arm before using the press, or you will need an angle-grinder to repair the threads. If anyone else is attempting this in the salt-belt, I would advise to remove the knuckle completely and use the services of a machine shop to press the bolt-on bearing from the knuckle. It doesn't separate as easy as many youtube videos would have you believe. I will be making use of silver never-seize when installing the replacement bearings. Video removal https://youtu.be/8lpb7_TarU4?is=eMjgVEoQMRU1bhlA Special tool https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-ford-ball-joint-separator-low-profile-w83051/50159995

Thank you Samurai Edge for your response. The sound did emanate from the rear of the vehicle, though pin-pointing to one side or the other was in conclusive. The tires are only 2 years old with no visual signs undue wear. A nail what noticed in one threads, however this discovery was minimized by a shade-tree mechanical member of the family as "being beneath the death of thread" as the sound can be heard starting at such low speeds. So on Sunday, I made a failed-attempt to unbolt the wheel bearing from the knuckle and isolate it from the drive-shaft non-destructively. To make a long story short, this did not workout. A 55-ton press was required to remove the (bolt-on) wheel bearing as attempts with traditional slide hammers and hub pullers lead to another failed attempt with the an Orion puller. https://a.co/d/09GzRjxl New wheel bearings are on order from Detroit-axle which has been a good brand of brake and suspension parts in the past.

This is a 2014 Edge 3.5L SEL AWD with 161,000 miles. For the past few weeks we now there has been a "thump" noise that is in sync with vehicle speed. I can upload a video of the noise, but is is the sound of "thump","thump"-"thump"-"thump and gets faster with an increase in vehicle speeds up to highway speeds. We were late in to a road-trip when it started. We had a tire-shop rebalance the tires, no change in noise and frequency. The inward pad on the driver side was worn almost down to backing of the pad. The passenger side seemed to have even wear, however the piston was equally difficult to react as the driver and boot was torn up. I changed the rear calipers. The calipers were targeted as they needed an extreme amount of torque to spin the piston back into the caliper. I tried to bleeder trick to determine if it was a bad caliper or brake hose, by pumping up the peddle 4 times and cracking open the bleeder screws. They only dribbled out and I still needed way too much torque to spin the pistons back in. Now, having replaced the calipers, the brakes work fine, however the parking brake doesn't seem to hold as well. I'll work on that in another thread. The passenger side holds better than the driver side. The "thump" noise is still present while driving as slow as 2-3 miles per hour. There is no left-to-right or up-to-down movement when shaking the tires on either side. Before I reload the parts cannon with rear-wheel bearings, what further troubleshooting should I try next?

I know this is an old thread but it was continually revised every few years. I'm concerned about drilling out this dimple thing on my 2014 SEL. Also can any one scan a copy of the install instructions?

Any chance you were able to remove it from the Guage cluster too?

So my wife and I had a few mis-starts with the remote start after adding an authentic RS key. 1. Press [LOCK] button on IKE 2. then double press [2X] button the parking lights would double flash and it would not remote start. I found the pin-point troubleshooting guide in the 2014 factory service manual. For those that are looking, it is under Engine starting not RKE. GROUP 3 - SECTION 303-06: Starting System Pin Point F is for remote start. I attached a PDF that contains only pinpoint F and separate PDF of DTC chart if it is needed Again, PinPoint test F is consolidated and just pertains to remote start. PM me if anyone needs the entire section. As soon as I had the troubleshooting tests in my hand, the remote start worked and I had nothing to test. So, Murphy's law for now. I have it ready in case it fails again. Edge-StartingSystem__PinPoint_F.pdf Edge-StartingSystem__DTC.pdf

I can confirm, the keys included in my kit are my problem with range and intermittent remote starts. The generic keys are not good. I replaced it with this from ebay and works like it should. Authentic rs key from ebay. I paid $110 after shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-2011-2018-Ford-Remote-Head-Key-W-Remote-Start-164-R8067-5912561-SEALED-/400622189183?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 I spent $277 between the kit with bad keys and one good key. I would been better off buying the $150 kit from fairway.

I'm sorry that the major hardware stores gave you such a hard time. I usually get a little push back as well. When I tell them "it's OK to say no to transponder key" they look at me strange. I just tell them I have a way to program and I'm not worried about it. I have never left with an uncut. Transponder. I just left Lowes and said to the kid , "scan your bar code for blank #24, but insert my key at the time of cutting " I typically offer to pay for the cut on my own key and after that they say, "no problem and, don't worry about it"

Sorry for the long delay. I know it is bad form to leave a question un resolved. This issue only came up once. I was not in a position to work on the issue and it has not come back. As my mother was the primary driver, he hadn't reported the issue came back. In March, my wife and I inherited the vehicle and the issue has not come back for us.

Update. The Generic kit that I got earlier this year is having an issue. This is the kit that I bought and would not recommend it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YQT3V2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The generic keys that came in the kit seem to have defective RS buttons after a few months of use. I would recommend a kit with better aftermarket keys or the official $150 - $300 kits from ford. I am having difficulty finding the keys alone. As stated in the first post of this thread; 164-R8067 is a supplier part number. When I search for that i get this link below. https://www.carandtruckremotes.com/factory-ford-remote-key-164-r8067.html They seem to have official remote start IKT keys and ilco aftermarket keys - Official ikt Price: $139.95 - Illco Price: $39.95 Official Ford kit. $150 https://www.fairwayfordparts.net/p-1-key-remote-start-fits-f150-super-duty-edge-and-flex-164r8067da8z15603a $300 https://accessories.ford.com/products/100-series-plug-n-play-4-button-remote-start-system-1

I ordered a Bronco Sport in March and took delivery on June 23. I traded In the mariner at 20200.4 miles.