Gadgetjq

Did you try the Android Central link that was posted earlier in this thread? Someone appears to have found the solution. With the car running and your phone connected, turn bluetooth off on your phone (disconnecting from sync) then turn bluetooth on again so it connects with Sync. End of problem at least for the person who posted the fix and at least one person in this thread. Cheers!

I'm REALLY enjoying this car/truck/cuv/suv.....whatever. This is my first ever Ford, coming from a late model Toyota Avalon Limited. My '16 lease return Titanium with 20" wheels rides better than the Toyota, the seating is far more comfortable and, of course, there's all the extra cargo space 😍. I'm especially enjoying the flexibility that FORScan gives owners to make this machine their own. Don't like extra horn honks, turn em off. Want to move the DRL to another bulb; immobilize your car if the engine is running and the fob isn't in the cabin? Just do that and so much more. Sync3 is far superior to the Toyota entertainment/navigation system when it comes to ease of use. Is there room for improvement? Of course, deal with it! Lube the BAMR, change the fluids, install a decent HID headlight bulb, read your owner's manuals and spend some time on MacT's website where you'll find literally everything you'd need to maintain this vehicle. Map updates are an issue for sure but they're not limited to Ford. At least we get occasional Sync upgrades that don't require an expensive visit to a dealer. Bottom line, yes I'm enjoying my Edge very much.

Really? 🤭 Ok, yes. Install UBlock Origin (works in Firefox as an add on). Click on the Element Zapper icon then on the orange stripe. Gone! Cheers!

That's a tricky question and it appears the only sure way to know is to get under the car and look! According to the maintenance manual (downloaded from MacT's web page) you 'might' have a secondary filter and you 'might' not. Here's a copy paste of the 2015MY "fuel system overview". Note bullet point #5. The fuel system consists of: a closed loop pressure control (CLPC) fuel system. fuel and vapor lines in an integrated bundle assembly. an AWD saddletype tank or FWD LShaped fuel tank. quick connect fuel and vapor tube couplings. if equipped, a replaceable external inline fuel filter. a fuel tank filler pipe assembly, which cannot be modified in any way, that also contains a misfuel inhibitor device to permit only unleaded fuel to be pumped into the tank. has an Easy Fuel™ (capless) fuel tank filler pipe assembly, which cannot be modified in any way and is serviced only by the installation of a new fuel tank filler pipe assembly. has a supplemental refueling adapter located in the luggage compartment. a Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) located under the vehicle above the LH side of the rear subframe. a Fuel Pump (FP) module containing: the electric FP module which provides pressurized fuel to the fuel rail. the fuel level sender. a check valve which maintains system pressure after the pump is shut off. a pressure relief for overpressure protection in the event of restricted fluid flow. a lifetime fuel filter providing filtration to protect the fuel injectors from foreign material.

1. No, but the terrain is pretty flat where I live. If you live/work/play in a hilly area then it'd be a good idea. 2. No, an electric motor is clamping the brake pads down on the rotor 3. No, as long as you don't try driving with the brake engaged. Cheers!

Watch the first 3:30 of this video. Cheers!

It looks like the dashboard side is still the same (see pic below) so if you 'want' the drawer find an earlier Edge at a local recycle yard or check eBay. dash side 'with' drawer

Swapped out the OEM shift knob for one from a Ford Focus to allow manual shifting from the lever in addition to paddles. Here's a link:

Many many thanks to TMarsh for posting this mod. I used his excellent instructions to swap out gearshift knobs today and it's working great. The photo above shows a Ford Focus (2012-2014) part installed in the '16 Edge. It was $27 on eBay. Note the two push button switches. I'm going to add a couple of items that might answer questions others might have when doing this. 1. Watch the first part of this video first. It'll help with removing some of the center console parts. Don't worry, everything just snaps out no muss, no fuss. You can stop 3:30 into the video with all the info you'll need. 2. Check out this Selector Lever Knob.pdf for help actually removing the old shift knob. Once the cup holder assembly is removed (video link above) you can pry up the black square from the shift assembly. There are four keepers. Pull (gently) and the leather trim will turn inside out. Now you can cut the zip tie holding the trim to the shifter. There are two Phillips head screws holding the shift knob to the post. Remove them and the knob will pull right off. 3. I reversed TMs instructions for connections in the steering column so my top button upshifts and the bottom button downshifts. Totally up to you, just check the button continuity to identify which color wire does what before installing. 4. A little counter intuitive is removal of the steering column cover. You'll be using a T20 Torx driver and a 7mm socket on the bottom of the column. When those two fasteners are removed you can lift the 'top' of the column cover partway off. It'll stay attached by a strip of leather so don't get crazy pulling on it. 5. I used this multi-conductor cable for the wire run. You only need three of the four wires so can pull off the extra and you'll have a whole bunch left over. This photo shows the connector with my homemade back probes installed. Note: If you don't want to make your own probes they can be purchased from MirrorTap. You have to call them 888-497-8388 and order a set of MTX-TAPS. I don't know the cost. Another option is to cut or strip (good luck, it's 26 gauge) the three wires and splice yours in. And this one shows the OEM plug back in place. Button everything back up and go for a ride. Now you have the option of up/down shifting with your hand on the shift lever or using the paddles. This works in both Drive and Sport mode except in Sport mode the transmission will wait for your button push or paddle pull. In Drive you can up/downshift on your own but the transmission can override your commands. Finally, tattling on myself: 1. I lost the two screws holding the shift knob to the stalk. I 'knew' exactly where I'd placed them but when it was time to put everything back together couldn't find them anywhere. I searched 45 minutes with my son helping. Suddenly I heard "uh, dad." He was holding my led flashlight, the one I'd been using most of this time to find the screws.....the one with the strong magnet on the base. Yep, at some point I'd placed the flashlight near the screws and it collected them. I'd essentially had them in my hand the whole time I searched. DOH! 2. When connecting the wires to the steering post plug my hatch popped open. Gads, do I have the wrong connectors? How could this happen? I went back and closed the hatch. A few minutes later it happened again! What? Turns out when working with the wires I was touching the hatch button on the dash. Again....DOH! Cheers!

Open the drawer, insert your hand palm up. Curl your fingers a little so the tips are against the top of the assembly. Pull. You'll hear four clicks as the keepers release. Done! It's a little scary the first time thinking you might break something but it does pop right out with with a little tug. Cheers!

Hey Modders, If you've done any aftermarket electrical work on your Edge you've probably noticed Ford uses some really tiny wire these days. A lot of it is 26 gauge which is impossible to get a T-tap on and nearly impossible to splice. So, the easy way to make connections is to borrow an idea from the Mirror Tap folks. You've probably seen their tiny pins that slip into the back of the mirror connector, the other end has an accessory appropriate plug. Those puppies are pricey so, I thought to myself...."self, you can probably make your own". That's exactly what I did for an upcoming project. Here's how to make your own back probe to power an accessory or just use with a test light or multimeter. What You'll Need 1. package of pins or any small needle from the household sewing kit 2. a length of metal tubing with an appropriate inner diameter for the size wire you use. Use steel or brass, it won't matter but you'll want the wire to fit inside fairly tight. 3. shrink tubing 4. wire 5. solder & flux 6. Torch to heat tubing and draw solder into the tube How To: Strip one end of your wire (length depends on your project) and dip it in flux then slip bare wire into metal tube Cut your pin to whatever length you'll need as a probe (generally about 1/2") plus the length of your tube then press it, pointy end first, into the tube with the wire. Place the tube/wire/pin combo in a vice or hold with pliers. Apply heat from the torch to the tube then, when hot, add solder. The molten solder 'should' be drawn down into the tube (you did use flux right?). When cool, slip a length of shrink tubing over the metal tube and some of the insulated wire and add heat to shrink the tubing. Done! What you do with the other end of the wire is up to your need and imagination. Attach it to an alligator clip which can be attached to your test light or multi tester or to whatever accessory you're adding. Cheers!

The fuse box does look like a spine twister until you realize....ta daaaaa...you can remove the change (or whatever you put in there) drawer. Pull that out and you're looking right at the fuse panel. At that point it's pretty simple just to reach up under the dash while you're looking through that opening to insert/remove fuses/fuse taps. I figured the hard part for your installer was getting the delay box installed in your glove box and routing cable to it from power/camera. Cheers!

Yes. My dashcam (Thinkware) has a built in battery sensor that can be set via software. After playing with FOREscan awhile or fiddling with Sync I frequently hear the camera announce "shutting down due to low battery." That just means I've dropped to a 12v threshold before the preset 3 hour automatic camera shutdown happens. The Edge always fires up, no problem so don't let it worry you. Your installer did a really nice job! Cheers!

I know, question was asked 7 months ago but there was never an answer soooooo.... You can use the FORScan program (freebie) and a decent OBDII code reader to modify the (computer perceived) diameter of your tire. It's an easy 5 minute task that your dealer would charge an hour of shop time for. Before doing that though, I'd check the Edge's speedometer reading against a gps to see how far off you are. If it's only a couple of percent then it's not really worth bothering with.

Are you sure that was a recall? Checking the NHTSA database for your year there were just three recalls, two for the body control module and one for the liftgate lock. In addition to NHTSA you can log into ford.com and check for outstanding recalls based on your VIN #. That field service action may just be a simple module update not related to vehicle safety. If that's the case then fixes are generally for a limited time. Cheers!