Mikula

I've got a lot of pics to upload, but I don't know how to post them here directly so they don't show up as attachments. how do i do that? do i have to upload them to a hosting site first?

I am still indifferent about my V3 tune. I finally did the custom exhaust on mine though, check out the thread in the 2.7 section!

And the custom exhaust I fabricated: Smoke is from the lube I used when expanding the pipes to fit over one another.

Edit: See post #48 before continuing!! Well, I bit the bullet for you guys. Spent the better half of 2 days fabricating an exhaust for my 16 Sport. This was my first attempt at a custom exhaust, and let me just say (pun intended) it was exhausting. Here is what I know. I started by taking out the old exhaust from the flex pipes rearward. It was pretty simple, as there are only 2 exhaust hangers per side holding the whole exhaust on (1 on the resonator, and 1 on the muffler per side) I decided to use a Magnaflow resonated x-pipe (in place of the stock resonator). Part number is 11386. Now, even by magnaflows standards, they call this a muffler. In my opinion, it is better suited as a resonator. This is an amazing piece. The main purpose of one of these (in my eyes) is to cut out all of the nasty ricey overtones associated with a V6. These also sound good on a V8, as they do get rid of some of the harsh tones. I would recommend these on almost any application. After that I decided to skip using an actual muffler, so It is just 2.5" pipes from there, into 3.5" staggered quad tips out of the rear. The stock rear bezels need to be removed to add anything back there, as they just get in the way and can't fit anything in there. THE RESULTS: Don't... and I mean Don't.. do what I did here. The drone from 1100-2500rpm is unbearable. Maybe I'm getting old, because when I was 25, the louder the better! I don't know how long I'm going to keep this on, but luckily, I made the exhaust in 2 pieces, so it can be removed (and shipped to some lucky forum member that likes their edge loud and proud!!) Now, the excessive noise is not coming from under the seats, as the only noise you hear is coming from the rear. Just LOUD! The Idle? Sounds absolutely great. Just what I wanted. Deep sounding, a little throat, and impressive for a V6. Wide open throttle? Absolutely a beast. I really do love the WOT sound I'm getting out of this. I had the wife mash it while I stood on the side of the road and I was really impressed. Do you know it's a V6? yes. Is it a ricer? NO. a FIRM NO. Butt dyno? No discernible difference before or after. But again... the in-cabin noise of this set-up might be too much for me to handle. The next thing I may try is getting a set of "bullet" style mufflers, and weld them almost in the same place MRT put theirs on the Edge kit they sell. Hopefully that will calm it down, while still being very little restriction at WOT. I will post a link to a few videos I took, though of course, sound is hard to capture through video.

Does anyone have a set they removed and are willing to sell? Ford wants an ASTRONOMICAL amount of money for them.

Do you happen to have the exhaust bezels you pulled off of yours, and would you be willing to sell them?

I'd say the date on your camera needs to be updated!

^^^ what he said! I can get you a twin turbo coyote motor for less than $7500!

I just spent 10 minutes trying to find the post where someone put up instructions on front bumper removal. i know i saw it on this forum. I'd bet it was either snmjim or special k, maybe send them a message and see if their memory (or search bar) is kinder to them than it was to me!

in for under $700, which i know is unlikely

Tell that guy to get his hands on a pipe bender! pie cuts are such a PITA. Sure does show off the skills of the fabricator, though.

I bought some emblem overlays off of ebay and I am very happy with them. pick your color and have it say whatever you want or a picture. They do have the "ford script" font available.. just in case you want to put a 4 letter word that starts with "F" for your emblems. I can't think of any examples off hand....

well the -2.5 is way out of factory spec. that is with lowering springs installed. I believe factory is supposed to be between -.3 to -1.8, and this can be achieved, even with the springs installed... unless you go to an alignment guy that has no idea what they're doing (i've posted that story on here in a few places)

those bolts are only for the front wheels. The rear can be aligned to be within spec if you take your car to the right people. I've been in an argument with the guys at speedy align that said they cannot adjust the camber in the rear. i was close to -2.5 in the rear or something outrageous. I even showed the guy which bolt to loosen to adjust rear camber, to which he told me that it would affect the toe. NO KIDDING IT AFFECTS THE TOE!! That is why there is toe adjustment also. Took it to another place with an old timer and he knew exactly how to get it within factory spec. The other guy teed me off so bad telling me it had no adjustment. I shouldn't have to get under my vehicle to explain to the "experts" how to do it.

Yea yea... some of us prefer the straight lines! I personally don't have the "eggs" to find out how quick I can roll into a ditch! I found out about 3 weeks after installing the lowering springs that this thing will oversteer. had to squeeze a cheek so i didn't poop my pants, and from that day forward, I now much prefer the straights!

If you guys could, PLEASE take notes of what tools you use/need for the rear shock replacement. I'm going on a road trip here shortly and might just buy a pair of shocks and bring the tools with me. if the thing blows out while i'm on the trip, i'd like to be able to swap it in a parking lot. much appreciated!

also, I have a hard time trusting vehicles that have been previously leased. only because I don't know anyone that doesn't beat up a lease. even my mother, the little old lady, beats on her leases pretty hard.

i paid 35 out the door for mine brand new with 401a, cargo, and cold weather package. i don't know if i'd pay that much for a used one. especially if 30 is before tax title tags blah blah blah. dealer is full of it, they would never pay that high at auction. also i would never believe the CPO bullsquat after seeing one at a dealership before i bought the current one. it was a 2015 with 18k, previously leased and had the certified garbage sticker on it. after driving it and giving it a look over i saw oil leaking from the pan and some other fluid i couldn't identify in the engine bay. I feel like they can say "oh yea, we did our full 8 million point inspection on it" and slap a CPO tag and call it good.

i saw an edge on the road this evening and thought, "that's weird, their light bar isn't lighting up" and came home and saw this thread. i'll be damned if i don't learn something new every day! I thought the same thing as the OP, that something was wrong with their car.

i used to use rock auto for everything. gradually their prices hiked up higher than i liked. turned to ebay for quite a few years... Now i NEVER find a good deal on ebay, and i'm back to places like rock auto.

add an infinity g37 coupe to the list!