dolsen

Yes, your words are not saying zero, but your responses clearly show that you are treating airflow as zero. You are correct, it is not designed to be a primarily air-cooled engine, but that is a part of the equation you cannot remove, regardless of how hard you try, and I if I was a betting man, I believe Ford engineers would take the air cooling benefits into consideration when designing the engines/vehicles. If pushing air across the radiator was the only means of cooling needed, then you wouldn't see cars overheat when doing burnouts or on dynos. Surely you can understand there is a huge difference in using 95+ degree ambient air with an RH of 80%+ trying to air cool an engine vs 0 degree (or colder) air, regardless of RH to air cool an engine, especially at normal driving speeds. Also, you tend to speak in absolutes. How can you make the statement that air cooling is not a consideration when @waldo posted an excerpt from the service manual stating that a secondary function of the shutter is to shorten engine warm up time? That certainly proves that Ford engineers did in fact take airflow (air-cooling) into consideration.

But the grill shutters prevent air flow through the radiator when they're closed, allowing the engine to warm up faster. Keeping the thermostat closed until the coolant reaches 180 degrees also helps the engine warm up faster. I was lumping the cooling system and the engine together as one with regards to air flow and cooling capacity, but I agree with efficient vs inefficient with regards to airflow around the engine. However with the shutters being directly in front of the radiator, the argument about airflow is still very relevant, especially in cold climates. If you live in south FL where the temp rarely goes below 80, sure the shutters will likely have little effect on warm up. but if you live in Canada or Alaska where it is commonly below 0 degrees Farenheit, certainly airflow around the engine, even with a closed thermostat, will draw off a lot of heat. Less efficient heat transfer does not mean zero heat transfer. Warm up times will greatly depend on speed of travel, engine speed, engine load, ambient air temp and humidity, and elevation among a host of other factors I am sure. Ford cannot control any of those external factors aside from volume flow rate of air around the engine, unless they choose to program vehicle operation before warm up (i.e. set limits on speed and throttle input, etc.).

Enlighten us. I am not arguing with you, I am sharing my understanding of the working world that I have gained through education and practical experience. If you understand it differently or know something that we don't, then share. Don't get upset and clam up. I am in this to learn, not win an argument.

It always made me think of a whale showing its baleen

You're asking a very non-specific question, as the response you are looking for I am certain you are not expecting the response I am going to give, but still falls within the parameters given. Thermostat closed, shutters closed? on a 95+ degree day, if I immediately start driving my vehicle after turning it on, 30 seconds if I drive it hard as soon as I start it up. Thermostat closed, shutters open? On a 20 degree day could be 5-10 minutes depending on driving style. This affects fuel economy, emissions, and cabin temperature. Thermostat open, shutter closed? I would imagine somewhere in between the first two. Based on your responses it seems you are greatly underestimating the cooling ability of air flowing over the engine. Bonus answer to a question not asked: I had a 98 escort that had the thermostat stuck open and driving it in 30 degree weather the coolant never got warm enough to give me heat on a 30 minute drive, regardless of how hard I drove it. How does that translate to an edge with shutters? I can't give an exact answer, but I bet it would be similar. I know the warm up times may seem trivial typing from a computer, but it makes a world of difference when it is cold outside and you want your car to be warmer and/or you need it to defrost faster.

LOL in my experience, the paddle shifters are more or less useless regardless of the tune

I think the mileage is slightly better when tuned so long as your tune is a gasoline tune. Start using corn and expect a fuel economy decrease. I went from about 20 mpg to about 16.5 mpg going from 93 to E50.

Depends if you datalog and get more revisions. That took me about 3-4 days to get my tune dialed in. But I did it at my convenience, I didn't go out of my way to get it done immediately. The actual uploading of the tune? Like 10 minutes

I believe your last two sentences to be wildly in accurate. You're underestimating the cooling affect of airflow. Sure, when you're sitting still the grille shutter will have a SMALL effect on engine warm up (but still not zero), but if you start it up and immediately start driving, the air flow will have a much larger effect on warm up, in the same way it'll have an effect in engine cooling once it is up to temp.

As far as mixing calculations, your best bet is do download a phone app to calculate how much of each fuel you would need for a mixture. I'll use E50 since that's what I am running. I mix E85 (85% ethanol) and pump 93 (10% ethanol, Not all pump gas has ethanol in it but it should say it on the pump, E10 is pretty common for pump gas these days though). If I need a total of 10 gallons with 50% of that fuel being ethanol, then I would meed 5.33 gallons of E85 and 4.67 gallons of pump gas.

I have not upgraded either of those. Honestly I don't know much about the "why" behind upgraded spark plugs other than spark "blow out". But since we are already turbocharged (as opposed to going from NA to FI) I don't know why the stock plugs wouldn;t work just fine. Upgraded thermostat allows the thermostat to open at a lower temperature to help your engine run cooler, but I believe a good FMIC will help more than a different thermostat unless you're constantly pushing it hard, pushing it hard for long periods of time, or just live in a hot ass environment. I replaced my spark plugs about 10k miles ago with the stock plugs and haven't had any issues. I will likely do an FMIC upgrade but theres no point in the middle of winter in Louisville KY IMO.

Mixing is easy as long as you go to a pump that has E85 and gasoline on the same pump. The math for mixing is a little more difficult. For example if you are mixing E85 with 0% ethanol pump gas to get E50, you have to mix a different amount than if you have E85 and the gas at the pump has 10% or more ethanol in the gasoline. On an explorer ST forum I said a picture of a gas pump in KC that had 30% ethanol in their 93 octane gas, which would require zero mixing if you're running E30. There are plenty of apps you can use on your phone to auto calculate how much of each fuel is required. I have an app call e85cal that I use. Cost from unleashed? I already had an SCT tuner so it was $200 for the E50 tune. If you do not already have an SCT tuner I believe it is $450 for the tuner and tune. As far as power gains from a 93 octane tune vs stock 87? IIRC it is something in the ballpark of 60/90 hp/tq. That's really just a guess though since I've never had mine dynoed

I recently got an E50 tune from Unleashed tuning and couldn't be happier. E50 refers to 50% ethanol, E30 is 30% ethanol, etc. etc. USUALLY you will have to mix pump gas and E85 to get your desired Ethanol content. There are a couple of ways around mixing fuels, but I believe mixing to be the most common. Ethanol has much greater cooling capacity than gasoline and therefore timing can be advanced more to create more power without causing detonation in the cylinders (which will QUICKLY destroy the engine). There are several other companies that write tunes but I can only speak about 5 Star and Unleashed when it comes to ecoboost tunes. I had a 5Star tune on a 2015 3.5EB F-150 and wasn't really much of a fan. It seemed to be powerful-ish but left a lot to be desired in the driveability department. I have had unleashed 93 tune on a 2017 fusion sport, 93 unleashed tune on my 2015 edge sport and now an E50 unleashed tune on my 2015 edge sport. Unleashed is much more powerful and refined in my experience. Ask 10 different people and you'll probably get 5 different answer on which tuner is best.

Welcome! Here is a thread with several aftermarket parts listed. As far as exterior upgrades, those seem to be scant at best. I think 3 of the most common mods are the gauge upgrade, a tune, and an FMIC.

congrats and welcome!

He's talking about downgrading, not upgrading

Possibly, but I am not familiar with those gauges and unsure if you would lose any functionality

I REALLY like the headlight modification. Did you ever figure out how to get them working properly? I'd love it if you could do a write up or something. I think that's the next modification I would do to my edge.

I guess I don't understand what you mean by this... My 2015 Edge Sport is tuned with an SCT tuner. EDIT: just saw that you have a 2020 Edge, did SCT stop supporting the edge?

Gotcha, I had to go almost back to the beginning of this thread to see what you were talking about. I am super jealous of his 3.0 swap.

Wait... Are you Adam? Or am I missing a joke?

I had strongly considered ZFG E50, but that would have been a $600 investment, and I have no ethanol stations within 10 miles of my house so It would have been an expensive endeavor had I decided I hated driving so far to always fill up. Unleashed was a $200 investment, and I have a bit of purchase history with Unleashed and I know that I am getting an excellent product from him, so for me it was a no brainer. However, I would be very interested to see the difference between an unleashed and a ZFG tune. I'm just not willing to spend $600 for an experiment at this point. A dragy might be in my stocking for christmas though, so that's nice

Well if your thermostat is stuck in the open position, that can definitely prevent you from getting the engine up to temp, and if the engine never gets up to temp, your coolant will remain cold, which is what the heat draws from. From what little I know about your situation, it sounds like either a bad thermostat or a bad heater core. An open thermostat wouldn't cause it to overheat. If you can replace the thermostat yourself (I have no idea where it is on a 2013 edge), that would be a very cost effective fix, assuming that is in fact the issue. Replacing a heater core on the other hand is a complete pain in the ass.

Any chance the heater core is plugged up? Does you engine get all the way up to normal operating temp? If the system is in fact working correctly, you are more likely to have a mechanical issue.

I'm not a member of that forum and cannot see the photos. Are you referring to this?