dolsen

I cannot speak too intelligently on this, but one thing I would keep in mind is the change in the Firmware and the USB hardware that allows the use of Android Auto and Apple Car Play. I don't know when exactly the change is, but it was around this time. If that feature is important to you, keep in mind which version you're getting.

Interesting, I probably just tripled my knowledge on spark plugs by reading that

I understand your point and I dont disagree with you. With that said I dont think that gapping a spark plug to .xxx inches is going to cause a failure. Gapping a spark plug to xx% of the manufactured gap is what you would need to look for. I dont know much about spark plug manufacturing but I do know a lot about manufacturing. I believe they are manufactured to a specific range (the gap range is likely different from plug to plug, manufacturer to manufacturer) and this range ultimately dictates how small of a gap is too small for wear/reliability purposes.m The issue isnt necessarily the gap size, the issue is how far the ground strap has been stressed by gapping outside of manufacturers recommended limit.

Can I purchase through the forum or do you prefer ebay?

Welcome!

It seems to me the concern he has is with you weakening the ground on the spark plug. By closing the gap tighter, you have reduced the weld strength. Think of it like this, after you open your beer can, the can tab is weak at its connecting point. If you continue to bend it back and forth, past its yield point, eventually it will break off, and youll cut your lip drinking your beer. The manufacturer recommends gapping no smaller than 0.032 because you are bending the ground strap past its yield point and could cause premature spark plug failure due to a bad ground strap.

If it has a larger bore, I would think its ok, hard to tell without seeing it. I would be more worried about the bolt pattern. Are those the same?

I bought it used with 76000 miles on it (2015 sport) and it had probably 5/32s left on all tires, and Ive always known pirellis to get noisy towards the end of their life. Initially I thought it was just road noise from the tires, and there was always this very mild vibration in the gas pedal over 50 mph, but I didnt really know what to think of it. The other day I got up to a high rate of speed and the noise grew louder and the period of the vibration shortened, but also got louder and more distinct in the gas pedal. I just had the PTU apart for a seal change (well the dealer did, not me) so I dont think the issue is there, and I can only feel the vibration on one side of the vehicle (vibration was there before PTU work). After dealing with the above symptoms at a high rate of speed, I determined (possibly incorrectly, I dont yet have proof) that the LF wheel hub bearing is bad. I plan to replace it myself as I dont believe it to be covered under extended warranty.

I keep getting a noise that I thought was road noise, accompanied by an intermittent, periodic buzzing that I could feel in the gas pedal. At first I thought it was the tires but the last couple days Ive come to the conclusion that the left front wheel hub needs to be replaced.

Customization of cars is going bye bye unfortunately. Now its all about packaging and bundling options... reminds me of cable tv

I dont have a dog in the fight, Im just waiting to see how all these tariffs play out and affect the real world. With that said, a statement by NADA, is not fact either. It is their prediction. Im not disputing the likelihood of their prediction coming true either... but again, you cant claim that prediction (opinion) as fact.

This may not be the best practice, but in the past I have always gone under 1/4 tank of 87, then fill up with 93, install the tune. Then I sorta take it easy with the first tank and by my second fill up from under 1/4 tank I will allow myself to drop the hammer! Its not ideal to run mixed gas like that but the only real danger in this would be at WOT on your first tank of gas. But even still there is enough timing wiggle room built in that its not a huge deal, unless you told the tuner you want to run the most aggressive tune they can make.

Yes as akirby said, its both. Generally the hang on parts are painted by a supplier at their facility and then mounted to the unit as its being built. Sprayed by a different process with different paint by different applicators at different times. Honestly its kind of a miracle they are able to get some so close in color. There is a specification from Ford for color match. Can you post any pics? I would be interested to see them if you care to share. I have a pretty good eye for paint

I don't think that's entirely true. It took almost 14 months for our house (we built in 2016) to be put into google maps. Couldn't get pizza delivered because we werent on the map!!!!

It can be daunting if youve never done it before, but its actually incredibly easy. I can only speak from an SCT perspective as Ive never used the LMS tuners, but here it goes. I would just go on the Livernois motor sports and engineering website and get their phone number. Give them a call, tell them what youre looking for, and theyll ask you for a few pieces of information about the car. From there you purchase, they ship it to you and you plug it into the ODB-II port and follow the instructions to upload the new Calibration to the vehicles computer. Voila, youre done! I may have left out some of the finer details, but I dont feel they warrant an explanation.

That and the price tag

I thought this thread was about a man and his children that bought foreign vehicles, not all the economics and opinionomics behind it

The size of the launch will dictate the number of units built. Since this is a smallish launch, I would say its likely around a couple hundred units built at most. None of which would be sellable. Number of units built is irrelevant if none can be sold to the public

At this point its likely about manufacturing feasibility. Testing, tuning and new features should have been worked out looooooong before this stage, especially at TT. Sounds to me like something wasn't accounted for in the manufacturing process, requiring MAJOR rework of equipment. Pushing back a J1 date 2 months is not what I would consider a "small bump".

Any reason given for that? Suppliers? Manpower? retooling/construction?

Did you upgrade from MFT/Sync 2? I am having what I believe is a similar issue. I upgraded to Sync3 from MFT/Sync 2 and I replaced the USB hub and plugged the mini USB cable back into the USB hub. What I believe was lost in translation (at least for me) is the other connector is no longer connected to the USB hub (i had two connectors, a mini USB and a multi-pin connector, which I did not reconnect the latter). There seems to be an upgraded style of connector that needs to be used for the USB hub to work I believe, which is something I plan to investigate as time allows. (I don't really use CarPlay anyways, but I want the ability to do so if I choose).

BECAUSE RACECAR

Im getting a video unavailable error. No bueno

Mount a GoPro to the underbody!!!! I always love those kinds of vids

I found something interesting just now. According to the 2019 Edge ST fact sheet published by Ford, the Edge ST will have a water-cooled PTU. https://www.at.ford.com/content/dam/atford/fna/images/articles/2018/05/All-New-Edge-ST-Fact-Sheet.pdf