PSUFetch

Neil, I had some pretty significant damage from hitting a pothole and was able to get my alloy wheels repaired on my old car. There are certainly places out there that can fix scrapes. It sounds like you're not in the US, so maybe wheel repair places aren't as prevalent where you are. Curb scraping is pretty easy to repair though, so I'd keep looking around for someone that can repair them for you.

It sounds like the other problems you're having can be fixed with some minor adjustments form the dealer. Since you didn't get service that you thought was satisfactory, I'd suggest trying another dealership. Hopefully there is another Ford dealer relatively close by. If you schedule an appoinment in advance, they should be able to give you a loaner as well. Welcome to the forum. Also, if you no longer hate your Edge, you might want to change the title of your thread.

I honestly don't remember any dimples when I installed my hitch. I have a Curt hitch and the instructions called for trimming some of the heat shield where the hitch met the frame rails. I'm going to venture to say that the dimples won't be a big deal. As a general rule, you should re-torque the hitch mounting bolts after your first towing trip to make sure they haven't loosened. If the dimples flattened out, the re-torquing will take care of that anyway.

nimrodxi, I have a Curt hitch installed on my Edge. I also have the factory hitch that came with the towing package. As you can see form the picture, the Curt does not require any cutting of the molding. I did have to cut the heat shields that are beween the muffler and the rear cargo area. The instructions that come with the hitch are very straightforward and the shields can easily be cut with hand snips. Here is a picture Here is a link to my post with some additional info about the hitch install. Hitch info

bobbyz95's installation is pretty slick, but i'f you're looking for a different approach, you can always get a receiver for your trailer's bumper and then use a hitch mounted bike rack on the back of the trailer. Then you could use that rack regardless of whether or not you were towing the trailer. You'd just have to make sure the receiver you bought for the trailer's bumper isthe same size as the one you have on the Edge, or you'll need to get an adapter for the bike rack.

Rob, I never had me trailer weighed for sure, but the dry weight is approx 3000 lbs. I don't know if that includes the optional items in the trailer (refrigerator, microwave, A/C). The tongue weight is listed around 390 lbs, but again, I never checked it. That being said, I would never tow this trailer without a weight distributing hitch. When I 1st hooked up the trailer, I did not hook up the weight distributing bars and the back end of the Edge was very low. I'm sure I would have hit the bump stops in the rear when driving. After hooking up the bars, the difference in the fender gap is between 1 and 2 inches inch form front to rear. It's been a while since I measured, so I don't remember for sure. That seems like a pretty hight tongue weight. The electric brakes do a good job of slowing the trailer down. I increased the level of boost on the brake controller so it gave a little better initial bite when I step on the brake. It makes the brakes feel alittle overboosted at barking lot speeds, but is not noticable once you are moving. I'm probably pretty close to your dry weight (if not over) when I'm fully loaded with water and supplies. You'll be well over 4000 lbs when you fill up your water tanks and add in enough supplies for a weekend. Plus you'll have to factor in the weight of you and your passengers and the fully loaded trailer in the overall gross vehicle weight which is on a label that is visible when you open the driver's door. I can't really answer your question because I dont know exactly how heavy my trailer is, or how heavy your trailer will be when loaded, so I can't make a good comparison. Also, I have no idea if I'm doing any damage to the Edge by towing this trailer. I do plan to change my transmission fluid on the severe schedule, and I'm running synthetic oil during the towing season.

Ouch! I'm sorr to hear that. I've never beena huge Mustang fan, but I always liked the way the Roush's were done. Also, as you're well aware, problems always get more attention on these forums. you rearely get the "Everything is great" post. We've got a 2008 Edge AWD with 18,000 miles that we've done some towing with and the PTU is still fine.

The motor on the rear wiper in my wife's Edge started making the same kind of noise this weekend after we went through an automatic car wash. It was a touchless wash, so I know the wiper arm didn't get tweaked by being conacted. I'm wondering if some water got past a seal and caused some damage. I dind't get a chance to take it in yet. I'll be tkaing it in soon for the woper motor and a rattling in the door that appearded after they replaced the power mirror joystick. I'll let you know what i find out.

I checked out the Ford website and when you go to build an Edge, it gives the details of the towing package: Class II receiver Larger radiator Upgraded cooling fans 4 pin wiring harness I have the towing package on my 2008 and I remember seeing that there was also a higher capacity battery and an oil cooler as well, but I don't see it on their website.

Keep us posted if you find any. I haven't looked yet, but I'm going to need a set soon. I'm wondeing if the blind spot mirrors on the newer Edge (it's either 2009 or 2010) will be any better.

I guess it depends on how much weight you'll be towing and how often. I believe the owners manual tells you the factory recommended max towing weight without the towing package. I don't have it in front of me, so I can't say for sure, but I thought its was 2,000 lbs. If you're going to be towing more than the manual suggests, then you'll have to weigh the potential for damage vs the inconvienence/cost of the trans and oil cooler addition.

Yeah, it sounds like air in the system, or not enough fluid.

ipod integration This was in the Audio section of the forum. I searched for "ipod" and it was on the 1st page of results.

The brand is Compustar. The Model is RF-P2W9000-SS The price installed is $505. The starter is $350 and the bypass module is $155. I didn't yet have the extra controls for the heated seat and rear defroster installed. Controlling the heatd seat and rear defroster will be about 1 hour each of labor at $45 an hour. The starter works well, and they shop I go to includes set up for all the items that the factory remote does (the power liftgate is controlled by the remote starter's fob and was no extra charge). I'm going to look into getting a plain key from Ford so that I don't have to carry 2 fobs around with me. The installation shop told me that Ford sells a key without the remote built in. I haven't looked into it yet though.

When you say it's working, did you check that both the front and rear turn signals are flashing on the left side? The fast blinking is usually an indicator that one of the bulbs is burned out. Even if the parking lights work, the turn signal may be burned out because the bulbs are dual filament. One filament burns brighter for the turn signal while the other burns more dimly for the parking light. If it were a fuse, you wouldn't have power to the bulb, so it wouldn't work at all.

You'll have to go aftermarket to get that kind of functionality on the Edge. I'm having a system installed in my wife's Edge that will allow her to turn on the seat heater and rear defroster. It's also a 2 way system that gets fedback from the vehicle so that you can tell if it has started when you can't see the car.

If you tow, you should take the tranny out of OD. It will reduce the gear hunting and prolong the transmission's life.

Check for the rubber inserts that go in the cupholders, as well as the rubber insert that goes in the storage area that is on top of the dash, above the stereo. they were missing in m in-law's Edge. Also, make sure you get an antenna. Our salesman had to steal one from another Edge on the lot because ours was missing. We also had a small defect in the paint that needed to be repainted, as well as a door ding on the passenger door handle. They tried to just touch it up, but I made them fill in the chip and re-paint it.

I was worried about that too, but it wasn't a problem for us. The Prodigy came with 2 different mounts. I used the one that is a "sleeve" mount which lets you disconnect the plug from the back of the controller and then slide the controller out. The bracket stays in the car, but it allows you to take the controller between vehicles easily. It doesn't do too much for freeing up space though. If you're concerned, I'd try using some double sided tape to temporarily mount it and then sit in the seat and have your wife do the same. My In-Laws purchased an Edge after they took ours for a drive. They loved it. They have a Mazda Tribute (Ford Edge cousin), but the like the longer wheelbase and smoother Ride of the Edge for long trips.

I installed a Prodigy brake controller in our Edge earlier this year. Here's a link to the install along with pictures of it installed. Brake controller install At the bottom of my post, you can see the trailer I'm towing. I get ~9mpg while towing it. The car is my wife's daily driver and she gets 15 MPG in city driving and we typically get 18-20 on the highway (doing ~75-80 mph). I tow with the O/D off at all times. The Edge does a surprisingly good job of towing and the Prodigy was easy to set up and works very well. Don't get me wrong, I never forget that the trailer is there, but I'm at the limit of what the Edge can tow and I'm impressed. I only tow this trailer 3-4 times a year on a 300 mile round trip. If we used it more frequently, I would have considered buying a new tow vehicle.

They look great. $950 for 4, 20" OEM polished aluminum wheels with tires is a pretty good deal.

My understanding of the TPMS is that if your wheels don't have the sensors, the indicator on the dashboard will be lit constantly. We don't have costcos around here, but from my understanding they are a big box store (like Walmart). If you're looking for information, you should contact a tire store rather than costco. Get the info from them and use Costco for the cheaper prices. Tire Rack can also help you determine what size wheels will fit. Here's a winter tire sizing guide Tire Rack winter tire size guide Tire Rack recommends a 235/65/17 or if you want to stay with 18" wheels, they recommend 245/60/18 or 235/65/18. According to Tire Rack, bolt spacing is 5-114 I had an extra set of wheels with snoe tires on my Mazda. The summer tires I used were a 225/45/17 and the winter tires were a 195/65/16. Not only were the 16" wheels and tires ceaper than the equivalent 17's, but the narrower width gave me better traction in the snow.

I've had decent luck with touching op chips by making sure the paint it warm so that it's runny. Leaving it in the car on a sunny day is about all it needs to get runny. I have metallic red paint on my Mazda6 and had a sizeable stone chip that went down to a layer of primer that was a very light color. It was about the diameter of a pencil eraser and was very noticable. I only put 1 coat of the paint on, so the chipped area is still lower than the rest of the paint, but at least now it's body color. If it wasn't for the chipped area being white, I wouldn't have bothered with the touch up.

Someone here had a similar problem with that noise and their dealership found that it was a loose door latch or hinge (i can't remember). It sounded like it was coming from lower in the dash. I've got a similar noise as well. I haven't had a chance to do any investigating. It sounds like its coming from under my seat or under the dash on the driver's side. It's when going over bumps at moderate speeds. I've heard windshield popping before in other cars that I've owned, and this noise doesn't sound like it.

When I store my motorcycle for the winter, do the following: 1. Add fuel stabilizer and drive it for a few minutes to allow the stabilizer to circulate 2. Change the oil and filter 3. Hook up a battery charger to keep the battery fully charged. Make sure that you get one that monitors the battery charge level and keeps it topped off. They are called a "floating" charger. For a month, you should be ok without the stabilizer, but it's really cheap. You'll have to decide if a charger is worth it. They are about $30. If your battery dies, you'll be able to jump them car to get it started and then take it for a ride on the highway to charge the battery.