BlazedUp

Where's the picture ?

What exactly was the defect in manufacturing.....and how was it rectified. I know they are now using a different supplier and I did have all 4 rims replaced due to pitting and peeling of the outer cast aluminum rim. Lacks apparently has a better process for the abs plastic chrome, but the problem is with the very outer part of the wheel. I did specify to have the wheel weights placed inside the rim and they did do that. I would just like to know the different manufacturing process or material/coating that is used on the outer rim. I know the 20's completely cover the whole wheel with no visible metal lip.

10% highway, 90% city........Avg. 18.5...with a heavy foot. T he wife constantly reminds me...."your not driving your Mustang, slow down !" I do use Mobil 1 0w-20 and complete fuel system cleaner every oil change. It makes a notable difference.

EBC green stuff for good stopping power and minimal dust. EBC makes good rotors as well. I have had the rotors turned @ 22,500 for excessive rust build up which was covered under warranty. Ford has good pads but shitty rotors.

Either that, or they did nothing to repair the problem and billed Ford anyway. Take it to a different dealer.

No, that is not normal. Take your Edge to a different dealer.

Photoshop is your amigo.

Air in the lines would cause the pedal to go to the floor. I think the brakes are shabby too, but if you have to make an emergency stop from , oh say , around 70 mph.....they work pretty damn good. I was surprised I didn't end up in the trunk of a jaguar.

Your an A**hole !

Graphite powder may work as well......provided you have charcoal interior !!

Why would you want a heavier weight oil at operating temp ? Reduces gas mileage and makes the engine work harder.

An engine should never "ping" aka detonation. Every once in awhile is not normal. Detonation is detremental to an engine. These cars require 87 not 93.....if your are detonating on 93, something seriously is wrong. Have the dealer check the timing.

Are those wheels real, or are they the same plastic garbage on the Edge ?

I don't blame you one bit if you "keep the jeep" It really is a crap shoot as to which ones will leak and the ones who will not. This really is a shame, the Edge is a great vehicle and Ford is and will continue to lose potential customers due to not necessarily the issue, but having no fix for the issue in almost 4 years. BTW, I wanted a patriot, but the wife wanted the Edge........so we compromised, and got the Edge :rolleyes:

So thats where it is.....I thought it was the photo-cell looking lense on the back of the rear view mirror. Anyway, just tried it out and I am having the same issue......both lights fire up fine when un-locking and upon starting the car ....passenger light goes out !! :angry2:

I hear you awake, It's just that the perimeter lighting and headlights coming on are very safe and useful while approaching the car at night in a dark parking lot. Even when you have the knob selector to "off" the headlights still come on when unlocking the car for about 5 seconds. I assume turning this feature off also turns off the puddle lamps right ? I just installed the cap about an hour ago and waiting for nightfall.....to see if this resolves the issue of the passenger light going out upon starting the car. Thanks for the replies !

Couldn't you just wire the fogs directly from the battery and install your own switch on the dash somewhere ?

Thanks Kemp. Thanks Jpeck. I do understand the FET and the pulsing system. You sure you don't want that coupon ?

Thanks for the reply kemp, sounds like you do have a cap in-line on the harness. I just wish Retro would have supplied this in the kit to make it work properly. How did you turn off the "lights on at unlock" ?

OKay Mr. Edsel, why do some people on here have A: No relay, and B: no capacitor......and their hid kit apparently works flawlessly. I do not understand why some work on some Edges and not on others. Please explain to me why this HID kit works on some and not on others. If you can answer that question, I will send you a buy one get one free coupon for a 3-pack of hanes boxer briefs.....BTW, what ,if any, HID kit do you have installed and do you have the auto-on feature on your edge. Voltage is voltage, I have the relay hooked directly to the battery, so why would the voltage "switch on and off" when it is hooked to a direct 12volt source ? Even if the voltage "dips" why does the light go out and stay out.......don't tell me to do "a quick search" on something you obviously know nothing about.

Todd @ retro replied to my e-mail within an hour of me sending it. Great customer service from this company. He is sending me a tap-in capacitor to try and resolve this issue. I thought that by installing the relay, this eliminated the issue of voltage drops/fluctuations (pulsing) negating the need for a cap. I know some used the kit w/o the relay and it worked fine. I have the relay installed and it seems I need another piece to make this kit work. Can anyone here explain to me why I need a cap in conjunction with the relay harness ?

I am having an intermittent problem with retro-solutions HID kit. At night, when I unlock the car via fob, both lights come on.......after starting the car, the friggin' passenger light goes out ! This doesn't happen all the time. I do have the relay kit installed. I did not expect these issues from $200.00+ kit. I do not know what else can be done because everything is obviously installed correctly.

It doesn't fit correctly. Water will get in, and it will eventually peel off.

That's just what I want......Teflon on my rims/ wheels/ brakes etc. There is no substitute for a hand wax. If your happy with it, then it's all good.......This is definitely not for me. It is not Teflon, it is a paint sealant....which typically lasts 6 months, whereas a good coat of wax lasts about 2-3 months.