ls973800

If I had the extra money, I would have that done. But the winter tire air set me back. Hopefully I'll have enough saved up to get the summer air put back in when the time comes!

I almost always have a plastic bottle or cup in the center console cup holders. Even with the rubber coasters that fit at the bottom, I get a lot of moisture due to condensation. When the A/C is running, which here is about 10 months of the year, it's a constant source of water. I've always stuck a few napkins in the holder, and change them out every so often. The other day while we were at Big Lots, I found these make up removal sponges which looked to be the perfect size to fit the holders. I bought a pack for 80 cents, and took them to the car. They fit almost perfectly, and will be easy to clean when needed. I went back in and bought the other 4 remaining packs to have on hand. There are two sponges per pack, and each are about 1/4 inch thick.

I had to get the oil changed today (25000 miles) at a dealer because it has been too cold here to do it myself. I went to a dealership I've used in the past and know their tendency to try and sell other services. They are very big on trying to sell the motor flush, radiator flush, transmission flush, power steering flush, brake fluid flush, and coolant flush (ZAK fluids used). They try to say about 25000 miles or so on some of these "maintenance" requirements. I am also familiar with their throttle body service and cleaning sales pitch. I always refuse these extras because they are not necessary in my (or most other owners) situations. The owners manual spells out exactly what REALLY needs to be done and when, and under what type of driving conditions. I do 5000 mile oil/filter/tire rotation, and usually do all of the maintenance items myself. This is a bit on the early side but I believe in the long run it's worth it. I heard a new up sell from them today. They recommended the usual throttle body cleaning and service ( I refused even though they said it was necessary at 25-30000 miles) The service adviser then told me I needed to have the tires balanced. Part of the Works Package is a tire inspection so I asked him to show me on the report where it said I had uneven wear on the tires. He said they were wearing perfectly. I then asked him why I have NO VIBRATION when driving even at 75 MPH (legal speed limit on many highways here) if I needed wheel balancing. After a few UH, Well, etc he said tires need to be balanced every 10-15000 miles. I told him no thanks, paid the $39.95 for the Works Package, and left. They also messed up the tire rotation just going front to back, back to front. I specifically asked for front to back, and back to front and crossed as shown in the manual. This order was noted on the write up before any work was done. I've done every vehicle I've owned for the last 20 years or so with this pattern, and have had great results. I was able to watch as they did the rotation, and had the "mechanic" correct the order before he tightened the lug nuts. I feel sorry for uninformed owners who don't know any better and waste money on unnecessary work.

I have a set of the four wheel locks and key which had been installed on my 2013 Edge when I purchased it. They were on the 20" chrome clad wheels. I really didn't need them, and removed them when I put other wheels on the Edge. I am sure they will fit other years and models of Fords, Lincolns, and Mercurys, if not other brands and models. $25.00 and I will include shipping to the lower 48 states. I prefer PayPal as payment.

My 2013 only has the two setting for the seat. I don't recall seeing any other settings in any other Edges I looked at. Perhaps the MKX has more?

What is nice about the X plan is that the dealer can only charge a certain amount for "Doc fees" which is basically just a dealer add on of pure profit. I've seen some dealers have fees of up to $500.00! Doing a search, I found that the fee the dealer can charge can not exceed $100.00 For some reason I was thinking it was capped at $125.00. Regardless, it can save some money by having a cap on it.

Make sure to check this link for a recall on the 2012-2013 2.0 engine for certain build dates. It was a link posted by Haz in a different topic area dated 1/15/2014. http://www.detroitnews.com/article/20140115/AUTO0102/301150068 My wife is coming in again this Monday and staying at a Comfort Suites hotel for 4 nights. The room is costing the client $1225.00! She had been staying in one of 12 apartments the client "owns", but those are all filled this trip.

I installed Flex 20" wheels on my 2013 Edge. There was another owner who posted about 1 month before I did mine that he had done the same thing. I don't recall what year Flex mine were off, but the hub size is the major concern. On our 2011-2013 Edges, the hub size is around 63mm. Earlier (2010 and older Edges) had a larger hub around 71mm I think. Any Flex wheels I looked at on eBay always had the smaller hub size which fit our newer models. Offset, width, etc fit perfectly. I tried finding the posts made by myself and the other owner, but I had no luck doing a search. The picture you linked to are what mine look like. I just don't remember what year mine were off and my receipt doesn't show the year.

Welcome to the forum. My wife has been traveling back and forth for the last year between the Dallas area (our home) and Midland/Odessa. She has a client there that she has been helping implement some software. I've driven there 3 or 4 times and am always amazed at the high cost of living due to the oil fields and related jobs. Hope you enjoy the Edge and if you have any questions, someone on the forum should be able to help. There is also a Ford service rep if you ever have any problems along that line.

I used to have that happen on a different car my son owned. Every time he drove in the rain or wet conditions, the ABS, Traction control, and another light would come on showing they weren't working. Once the car dried out, the lights went off and everything worked. His was a frayed wire which once repaired, took care of the problem.

I follow several Ford F150 forums also, and this question has come up there also. Here is a link from owner's adding it with no problems to a 2011 model. Unfortunately, there are 20 pages and as the new models 2012 and 2013 came out, owner's were not able to do a plug and play to install auto lamps. The newer models required a trip to the dealer and some vehicle code had to be rewritten or overwritten. If you read through the posts you will see the problems they had to overcome. I don't know how much is comparable with the Edge system, but this might help you. http://www.f150forum.com/f38/auto-headlight-mod-123905/ If you want to read more, here is another link regarding adding the auto lamps to a F150. Discussion is also about problems if you have DRL's (Daytime running lights from the factory). http://www.f150forum.com/f38/adding-automatic-headlamps-155873/index3/

What I also like about the cross traffic alert is that many times it has picked up pedestrians who are walking towards the Edge from the side as I am backing up. People aren't as easy to see so it's nice that it picks them up also.

edwingeorgen, like it was mentioned, your chimes should have alerted you when you were leaving the vehicle that some lights were on. Haz even said he tried it on his and they do chime with the parking lights turned on. There is a vendor on these forums who sells an aftermarket driving lights modification. His system turns the strip lights on and off with the ignition , no need to manually switch them on or off. I know the replacement kit he sells includes all of the wiring and modified front vertical fog lights (brighter and they also have yellow turn signals incorporated). I don't know if he will sell just the wiring and control box so you can have yours turn on and off with just the ignition. Here is a link to his website. He is on these boards if you want to search for him and uses the name of kc300c. His name is Dan and I have seen where he has given other owners advice regarding lighting. http://www.daytimebrightlites.com/

My 2013 ALWAYS shuts the automatic pump nozzle off when there is still 2-3 gallons I can squeeze in. There is a thread somewhere on the boards about the problems some of us have being able to fill it up completely. I can do it, but it might take 6 or 7 times of restarting the pump after it auto shuts off. I have found that I have to check the info screen to see how much fuel I've used, and then know how much to put in after the shut off. The fuel used on mine is within .2-.4 gallons every time of what I actually finally squeeze in. I have never overfilled or had fuel come out of the filler tube, even after adding such a large amount of more fuel after the first shut off. Some owners say the vent tubes or something may be plugged. I've never found anything on mine since day one. I have tried filling with the gas nozzle held all the way in, partial in, held high or low in the filler tube, etc. Nothing has allowed filling up the tank completely without additional restarting on my part. omar302 also has a good suggestion. Reset your trip mileage computer each fill up. That will give a more accurate MPG reading. I always reset my "A" trip, but keep the "B" trip cumulative for the 5000 miles between oil changes.

Don't worry, Dan. I still have your site bookmarked in order to purchase a set of your DRL's in the next month or two.

First check with the dealer where you leased the car from. Explain the situation and see if they can offer any help. With that short of ownership and it being a lease, you will probable have a high buy out right now. I know CarMax will buy leased vehicles, but you will need your buyout figure to see if that is even worth pursuing. I have heard of some of the "assume a lease" type deals actually working out. If you do something like that, make sure you are completely off any and all paperwork. Tough spot to be in, especially with a lease involved. Hope you are able to get it worked out.

I would also like to stop by here and welcome the new Ford Service rep. Best of luck .

Here is a link from an outside source using your VIN to find the window sticker. For the price you posted, it is a used vehicle, correct? How many miles, what condition, etc? It appears to be a base Limited with NO options other than standard equipment. Why is it for sale and from a dealer or a private owner? http://www.inventory.ford.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=2FMDK3KC8DBB66108

I have sold and shipped the last pair of fog lights I had for sale. Thank you

It was mentioned by thirdgenlxi in post #10 that the dealer CAN change the setting to on or off for the courtesy wipe.

sixponies, can you post a picture of your cell phone in the Edge? I looked at the links you posted but the pictures there really don't give me an idea of how the phone is held. Thanks

Not the factory service manuals from Ford, but here is a link to a free on line public library access to the Chilton service manuals. Not all models, makes, and years are there yet, but many are. Once on the following link, scroll to the bottom of the page and click on the area that says "infotrac.galegroup." etc. That takes you to the next page where you click proceed. You are then on othe page where you enter your year, make, and model. Enjoy! http://hmcpl.org/dat...eference-center

If you read some of the F150 forums, the 4X4's are notorious for having stuck rotors. Some owner's have had to heat them up, or even cut them off they were stuck so badly. Lots of ideas about how to remove them, some of which actually work pretty well. Glad to hear you got yours off without messing with the axle nut.

OK, I see that your caliper is already off, correct? And the rotor turns freely on the axle? Your rotor is probable stuck to the hub because of rust, salt corrosion, etc. If all of the torx screws are out (sometimes there are two, maybe three) it should come off. You can put a block of wood behind the rotor and hit it with a hammer. Sometimes you can put a jack bolt into the threaded holes that the torx screws were in and pop it off that way. No need to remove any hub nut, sounds like it is just "frozen" on. When you put it back on, clean the outside of the hub center and put on a little Never-Seeze or something similar. Just checked the service manual and they do suggest a jack bolt. I would try the wood and hammer first at this point. Thread a M10 bolt into the brake disc removal hole and tighten to press the brake disc off the hub.Installation Clean any rust or foreign material from brake disc and wheel hub. Use specified brake parts cleaner to clean the brake disc and hub mating surfaces. Apply a thin coat of specified anti-seize lubricant to the hub flange.

In July of 2012 I purchased my 2013 Limited with 301A, FWD, trailer package, vision package, 20" wheels, and WhitePlatinum tri coat for $37,718.00 before the $2000.00 rebate at the time. The dealer also threw in Ford wheel locks, all season Ford rubber floor mats front and rear, tinted front windows, and nitrogen filled tires. Selling price was $35,718.00 plus dealer doc fee of $149.00. Sticker was $41,530, invoice was $39,121, X plan was $39,240, and A & Z plan was $37,564. I was eligible for X plan through my work affiliation, but because the market is so competitive here in the Dallas area the dealer gave me A plan price plus about $250. I did not have to sign any papers for any of the Ford AZDX plans. This was a price two dealerships were willing to sell for when the 2013's were only out a few months. You are buying about 17 months later for the same model year as mine. I would think you can do better.