ls973800

I can't believe that much moisture could penetrate from the inside through the headliner and end up on the metal roof. I would think there is an external leak. Perhaps a body seam or penetration from some of the roof rack bolts. Was the headliner wet to the touch on either side?

Do you have to do anything to keep the dealer's lifetime power-train warranty in effect such as have them do all the service on the vehicle? What if you move, is the warranty honored at other facility's, or just the selling dealer? I myself believe the Ford ESP is well worth it if I am keeping the vehicle for 5 years or more. You can find some good deals on the Ford ESP by searching this board for various prices examples, plans, and what dealers to talk to. I purchased mine online from one of the dealers since my dealer didn't want to sell the Ford plan, only their own. The Edge has a lot of advanced electronics which are covered by the ESP. One weak point on the AWD has been the PTU regarding leaks. Not an inexpensive repair if it is out of warranty and starts to leak.

2013 Limited bought new in July of 2012. Now have 25000 miles, it's the daily driver and the only car we own now. Just routine maintenance (oil, filter, tire rotation) every 5000 miles. Very happy with the MPG and the ride and handling. Only slight complaint is the tires are getting loud on certain asphalt or concrete. They are the 20" Perelli Scorpion that are wearing evenly and very well.

Not sure about your statement "WE have to check each tire until we stumble upon the un-pressure tire. Including the spare !" Our (Edges) don't have a sensor in the temporary spare. I looked at the Grand Cherokee back in 2012 when I was looking for a replacement for my truck. I was ready to buy one until I followed a GC forum for about two weeks and couldn't believe the problems with many of the systems in the GC. I know that forums are going to attract negative posts more so than positive, but there were just too many to make me comfortable with actually buying a GC. I still check that forum once in a while, and see that the 2014's still had some major electrical problems early on. I ended up with the Edge even though I would have loved the GC. In the long run, reliability killed the GC for me. Too bad, I thought it was a great vehicle which would have fit my needs and wants very well.

Good luck, let us know if you find anything different that has to be done, or if it's as easy as it looks.

Not sure if you tried a search or just posted your question. Here is a link to a very similar question from just a week or two ago. It is for a 2013 Edge but I doubt if the 2008 MKX is any different. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13908-keyless-entry-keypad-removal-2013-edge/?hl=keypad

Make sure you enter the security code on the bottom right of the page, even though it is crossed out. Won't work without the code. Just enter without the line through it. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator

Techron is one of the best fuel system additives you can use in my opinion. GM recommends their own product when needed, and it is just Techron in a different bottle with a different name. Techron is highly regarded on some other forums, including Bob is the oil guy, one of the best sites to learn about oil, fuel, additives, etc. Ford may not make a penny on engine flushes, etc, but the dealerships sure do! Why do you think they push fuel system cleaning, throttle body cleaning, motor flushes, etc so much? It is almost pure profit! I posted about my recent experience where during the oil change, the service adviser said I needed a throttle body cleaning based on mileage (25000)! They never even looked at the throttle body! I put in a bottle of Techron right before every oil change and run at least one full tank of gas before the change. Never had any problems with injectors, throttle body, etc in the past. What's the difference for owners who use premium fuel when the manual specifically says it is not required (except maybe when towing), or those of use who use a fuel additive as a preventative maintenance step? We both might be tossing money out the window, but I believe I am receiving a real benefit and don't mind the $8.00 or so every 5000 miles.

Switching from Firefox to IE 10, the MapQuest map does have the SEND button on the top right hand side where I have always found it when using Firefox on my old computer. Using Firefox I put in the directions and after clicking get directions, to the right of where it says "Directions" there are options to print and an arrow to click which will allow sending to the car. These are on the left side of the page, right above the specific directions given for the trip. Must be some type of setting of Firefox and the new computer I am using. drpepper, like I said, I have the SEND button on my version of IE 10 which came on the computer. On Firefox, I found it "hidden" and it doesn't say SEND, just an arrow to click first.

Yes, Ford service manuals on DVD found on eBay. I bought mine near the end of 2012 for under $25.00 if I recall. It actually "expired" in July of 2013, but the seller told me that upfront. I have to change the date setting on my computer to prior to July 2013 and everything works fine. When done with the interactive DVD, I just change the date back to the correct one.

I tried sending an address to my car today from MapQuest using my HP computer which I have done in the past. However, the MapQuest map which I tried the directions and sending from did not have the SEND button anywhere in the top right hand side where it usually is. I tried a search and didn't find anything. The only difference is this is a new computer and I don't believe this is the first time I've tried sending an address. I don't know if maybe it's a setting on my computer not allowing the version of MapQuest with the SEND button, or if it is a MapQuest issue. Any help?

Isn't the Lincoln bumper to bumper warranty 4 years or 50000 miles? If so and you are under those limits, it should be covered no questions asked.

Heck, I'm still trying to get enough nerve to install some hood struts from Redline! I hate drilling or cutting holes into factory metal! http://www.redlinetuning.com/products_quicklift.html I will admit that intake would look nice coming out of the hood on an Edge.

Some type of time delay before allowing me to send another PM, so here are the pictures which correspond with the PM steps I sent you You will have to look at the pictures and match the picture number with the step number. I did post the pictures in order, left to right following the steps. Some step numbers are missing because they applied only to the MKX so no need to post them. Step 22 Picture 135489 is the money shot showing the two screws/bolts to be removed. I've never had one of these consoles apart, so don't know if there are any short cuts to get you to that point. GOOD LUCK!

I'm trying to insert the instructions and pictures to help guide you, but not having much luck. I'll send a PM with some info

I hear you and agree 100%, surfer 1. I also have the 72/100000 ESP with 0 deductible and enhanced first day rental coverage.

I just changed my oil at 25000 miles in my 2013 Limited with the 3.5 engine. My MPG per trip 2, which I only reset every oil change (5000 mile intervals) was 24.2 I've always been between 23 and 24 every oil change. Very happy with those numbers as I usually do 65-70 mph when on the highway. Have to use only ethanol blend (10%) since that is all that is available in the Dallas area. Most of the time the A/C is also on.

From what I see in the service manual, you have to disassemble the complete console basically, and then remove the two screws or bolts that hold it on. The two bolts are near the lower portion of the "stick" which the knob attaches to. They are below the rubber boot and naturally below the plate which has the PRNDS. Looks to be a time consuming job and a lot of items to be disassembled.

First time I had installed some new wheels with the old sensors put in, the TPMS light on the dash came on. I drove about 10 miles but the light never went out. This was all city driving, with no speeds over about 30-40 MPH or so. I got onto a freeway and hit 60 MPH. Within 1 minute the light went out. Perhaps you need to make sure you have gone over 60 MPH?

got letter. adding to the ever growing list of either current or future problems. unbeleivable. i love how it says the tear may not kill you right away, but i just can't help but picture having to really use the braking power that one time when it's needed only to discover that the problem has been there long enough for me to take out myself and another car on the road. basically, every time i go in for service i might as well have them look at this to make sure. The letter gives information of what to watch for if the booster were to develop a tear. It specifically states you may hear a hissing sound, and or the pedal will feel spongy. You can have them check it each time you take it in, but you could also see if they can show you how to check it yourself. That way you could check it how often you want. No where in the letter can I find that it says the tear may not kill you right away. I think you are expressing your displeasure with this vehicle for some reason.

Just got a new S4 this weekend but didn't have much time to do much with it. I did get it synced up with the Edge with no problem. I also made sure the messaging is turned on. Now whenever I start the car, the S4 gives a notification that Sync wants to access my contact list to allow messages. I always say yes. Is there anyway to keep it as allowing access without having to say yes every time I start the car? I also am using BT on the radio to access Pandora through my phone. The sound is very good, but the screen on the car only shows unknown artist and unknown title. The phone has the full information. Any way to get at least the artist and title to show on the car screen? Thanks

I thought it was a high price also, but then remembered that he is in the Middle East. He has some type of warranty which requires all the services be done at the one dealership and each visit costs him around $135.00 or so if I recall correctly. Hopefully he is paying only a few cents per gallon for gasoline!

I would believe that if the part failed again, and you are under either the B2B warranty, or the extended warranty, it would be covered. I take it to mean only one time if there is no additional warranty were it to fail again. An extended warranty is after all an insurance policy and it states specifically what will be covered. If Ford doesn't want it included in the ESP, they will have to remove it form the list of coverage, or send a letter to all ESP owners about the policy change. I really wouldn't worry about it until or unless it happens. I just received my letter the other day, and one interesting thing I noted is that the fundamental brake function will not fail, according to Ford. It does state however that the pedal effort will increase to stop the vehicle because the tear will expand if not serviced. Wonder if it will be almost like manual brakes?

How to program the IA extra key without going to the dealer. Note that if your spare key in not enabled, your dealer will have to enable it. Copied from my 2013 Edge service manual. With Intelligent Access (IA) NOTE: This procedure works only if 2 or more programmed keys are available. If 2 programmed keys are not available, refer to Key Programming using Diagnostic Equipment in this section. NOTE: This procedure works only if the customer spare key programming is enabled. If customer spare key programming is disabled, refer to Key Programming enable/Disable Spare Key Programming or Key Programming using Diagnostic Equipment in this section. NOTE: Carry out steps 1-7 within 30 seconds to successfully enter programming mode. The ignition must be off to begin this procedure.Place two programmed Intelligent Access (IA) keys inside the passenger compartment.Insert an unprogrammed IA key in the backup transceiver slot in the center console.Press the driver or passenger door lock control switch to the unlock position 3 times.Press and release the brake pedal once.Press the driver or passenger door lock control switch to the lock position 3 times. NOTE: After this step is followed, the indicator on the start/stop switch begins to flash rapidly, indicating that programming mode has been entered. Press and release the brake pedal once.Press the start/stop switch to program the new key. A message displays on the message center indicating the new IA key has been programmed.Exiting the programming mode is accomplished if one of the following occurs: The driver or passenger door lock control switch is pressed 1 minute has passed since entering programming mode or since the IA key was programmed Brake pedal is pressed The ignition transitions from OFF to any other state The maximum number of keys are programmed Verify the operation of the new key by pressing the lock and unlock buttons on the IA key, then place the new key inside the passenger compartment and start the engine with the new key. Make sure the original keys are outside of the vehicle when verifying the new key operation.If it is desired to program an additional key (only up to 4 keys total can be programmed), repeat Steps 1 - 8 for the additional key that needs to be programmed.

Sorry I am just replying to your post and question now. Looks to be a very simple job, no interior door panel removal. Copied from my 2013 service manual for the Edge. Item Part Number Description 1 — Keyless entry keypad retaining clips (2 required) (part of 14A626) 2 — Keyless entry keypad electrical connector (part of 14631) 3 14A626 Keyless entry keypad 4 W651011 Upper access plug Removal and Installation Remove the upper access plug.Using a suitable tool (such as a long, flat-blade screwdriver), through the upper access hole, release the rear keyless entry keypad retaining clip and position the keyless entry keypad aside.Remove the keyless entry keypad. Disconnect the electrical connector. To install, reverse the removal procedure.