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Used to be many different ways to obtain an X plan pin number. http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/51278-x-plan-pins-for-everyone-sticky-this/ Here is a list of 130 pages showing the companies that are eligible for the X plan. I read there are over 3400 companies that participate. https://pictures.dealer.com/fuccillofordeast/35b503cd0a0d028a013d72544b56c6a1.pdf You can also check with Costco who many have used their buying service and saved even more than the X plan price. When I purchased my Edge, the dealer honored the A plan price even though I had no association with Ford. I received all rebates and a special interest rate also. I had an X plan pin, but that price got blown out by every dealer I talked to. It was bigger savings not using the X plan. In 2003 when I purchased my F150, the dealer himself provided me with an X plan number given to them by a Ford employee. There are discussion groups on line where you can request an X plan pin. Just search for them using Google or something similar. Here is one link http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/forum/45-ford-x-plan-pin-requests/

Well, between your throttle body/air cleaner service which resulted in better power, and your recent brake job which resulted in better stopping, you should be all set for awhile.

Exactly. The sensors in Edge models 2010 and older were attached to the inner wheel using a band to hold the sensor. Unfortunately, you can not install the newer sensors that fit into the valve stem opening because of a difference in the module and radio frequency that they operate on. The older band type sensors would have to be installed once the tire is off the wheel, same as if you used the valve stem type. Must be why you are getting some high quotes for new sensors. You need the band and the sensor. There are some on eBay, here is a used set of 4 which would fit your Edge regardless of wheel size. $79.95 I only looked at the first few results that came up, may be better deals. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-OEM-TPMS-Tire-Pressure-Sensors-Bluebanded-SET-Bands-4-Used-/191019145987?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AFord|Model%3AEdge&hash=item2c79a0db03&vxp=mtr

One last post about uneven wear on the pads, either inner versus outer, or one wheel to the opposite wheel. This article again points out it is from a mechanical issue (rust, dirty, no grease, etc). What Can Cause Uneven Pad Wear? The key to correcting the uneven pad wear is in accurately identifying the condition responsible for it. Now that we've seen how a caliper pushes and pulls the pads against the rotors, let's consider the different ways brake pads can wear unevenly. Inner pad wear Inner pad wear usually occurs when the piston can't retract properly. The piston may be binding in a scored cylinder. The piston seal may be distorted or just plain worn out. Both of these indicate a caliper teardown and rebuild. The pad may be binding on a corroded caliper bracket. If this is the case, you may be able to clean the corrosion with emory cloth and brake cleaner. (Remember to keep brake cleaner away from rubber parts.) After the sliding surfaces have been cleaned, apply a dab of brake lubricant. Outer pad wear Outer pads will wear prematurely if the caliper bracket or (more likely) the caliper pins are corroded or if they're lubricated with the wrong lubricant. Again, they should be cleaned with emory cloth and lubricated with brake lubricant. Improperly installed pin boots are another possibility. Both pads on one side thinner than pads on opposite side This is generally caused by a hydraulic problem, although it may also be caused by a sticky piston. More often, the cause is a restriction in the brake hose on the opposite side. The side with the premature wear may also have a brake hose with internal damage that acts like a check valve, preventing the release of the brake fluid. It's also possible that there's a hydraulic restriction higher up the line than the brake hose on the side with the pad wear. For example, a faulty ABS modulator may not allow the release (return) of pressure on that side. One other possibility is air in the hydraulic line on the side opposite the pad wear. All pads wearing even but prematurely Generally, this is caused by two-footed driving or even the choice of pad material—certain pad linings simply wear more quickly than others. But most reasons for premature pad wear are not related to the friction material. Properly functioning disc brakes result in even clamping pressures being applied to both the inboard and outboard pads on both calipers. In most systems, if the brake system is working properly, the rate of wear on each pad should be close to equal. One thing to keep in mind: the master cylinder must allow the brake fluid to expand due to the heat generated at the wheels. If the master cylinder does not allow for this expansion, fluid will be trapped under low pressure at the wheels. If we're talking about the pads on the rear only (ie., front pad wear is normal), then check for binding in parking brake cable.

One other cause of uneven wear could be from a master cylinder which has blocked ports preventing fluid to return when the brake pedal is released. This will cause the pads or calipers to hang and wear faster. Copied from the Ford service manual Brake Master Cylinder NOTE: During normal operation of the brake master cylinder, the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir will fall during brake application and rise during release. The returning brake fluid creates a slight turbulence in the master cylinder reservoir. This is a normal condition and indicates that the compensator ports are not clogged. Clogged compensator ports may cause the brakes to hang up or not fully release. The net fluid level (such as after brake application and release) will remain unchanged. Fluid level will decrease with pad wear.

Anytime I've had extensive wear on one pad, be it the inner or outer, it was caused by uneven pressure from the caliper. The slide pins or keys have to be kept lubed and clean. If any of them stick, you will get uneven wear. Was your wear even across the whole pad or was it more on one end of the same pad than on the other end? I have never opened any bleeder screw in order to push the piston back into the caliper. The only thing you need to do is make sure there is room in the master cylinder for the fluid which is pushed back into the cylinder. Once you open ANY bleeder screw, you should make sure you bleed at least that line! Note also that when you reassemble the front calipers, one bolt is longer than the other and must go into the top hole. Last factor is that ALL bolts, nuts, etc need to be torqued to the proper amount. An over tightened lug nut on the wheel will cause warping of the disc. Over torquing of any caliper retaining bolts, pins, bleeder screws, lines, etc can cause uneven wear or improper operation. Here is an excerpt from the Ford service manual regarding the guide pins. The guide pins should slide with a reasonable amount of hand force. If the brake pads show taper wear or the guide pins are difficult to move, carry out the following steps. Disassemble the brake caliper guide pins and inspect the guide pins and guide pin bores for wear, damage and corrosion. If the bore is worn or damaged, replace the damaged component.Use a wire brush, rolled-up sandpaper or emery cloth to remove all corrosion and foreign material from the caliper guide pin bores. Clean any remaining foreign material from the bores with brake parts cleaner and compressed air.Assemble the caliper seals, boots and guide pins. Use an ample amount of the specified grease to lubricate the bores and guide pins.Inspect the brake pads. For additional information, refer to Brake Pads inspection in this section

I just picked up a brand new set of never installed TPMS sensors from a very reliable seller on eBay. Total cost for the 4 Ford brand sensors which fit many Ford models including the Edge was under $50.00 shipped! There are deals to be had and it's a small price to pay to keep the safety system intact. Not sure if the light being on would have any affect on my annual state vehicle inspection, but again, I wouldn't deliberately by pass the system anyhow for how inexpensive a set of sensors can be had.

I tried to find a copy of TSB 12-11-8 to see exactly what it says, but couldn't find any information on the web. I did find it mentioned on a Flex forum and a C-Max forum about dead batteries. The Flex's problem was something to do with the radio remaining on even with the key out and the door having been opened. Hopefully this will fix your problem and help others with the same problem.

I was wondering if the hood insulation fell down to cover the flames like someone on a different post thought it would? Now I guess we will have to wait for a real fire to find out.

Hopefully you get it figured out.

What year is your Edge? With the advanced electronic modules being used to control various systems and functions in cars, it could be one of those modules. In Ford, I don't know if that would be the equivalent of a BCM (Body Control Module as found on GM cars) or something similar. I have heard the term Smart Junction Box associated with Fords, perhaps that is one component to look at? A quick look at my 2013 service manual shows this regarding the autolamps staying on. It shows it could be the sensor itself as pointed out by an earlier post, or the BCM, or the headlamp switch (also pointed out by the same earlier post) which is integrated into the FLM. I don't know if the switch is replaceable as a separate unit or if it is actually a part of the FLM. The autolamps are on continuously Wiring, terminals or connectors Light sensor Headlamp switch (integrated into the Front Lighting Control Module (FLM)) BCM

The wheel hub bore size on my 2013 Edge was the same size as the Flex wheels I installed. I don't believe the hub bore size has changed but that would be the biggest concern. The offset is no problem. Search the forum in the Wheels section and you will find several posts about the Flex wheels. The 2010 and older Edges have a larger hub bore size than the 2011 and newer models. Here's a link to one discussion about the Flex wheels. Again, I don't know if the 2014 Flex has changed the hub bore size or not. I really doubt it, but can't say for sure. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13880-2010-2012-flex-rims-on-2011-edge-will-they-fit/

Looking at the online owner's manual for the 2013 Edge (4th printing-page 252) it talks about the Tow/Haul feature and the Grade Assist to use while towing. I just checked all the settings in mine, and I don't find the Tow/Haul feature I thought it had. I do have the Sport mode for the transmission. I did find the DTE calculation to use if in normal driving or if towing. I have never towed anything but got the tow package strictly for the extra cooling features for here in the Dallas area. My wife's Chevrolet Traverse which also had the factory towing package for the same reason did have a push button switch on the dash for Tow mode. It would adjust the transmission shift points, and would also change the turn signal courtesy blinks from 3 (non tow mode) to 6 (tow mode). Having seen the DTE with Tow setting when I first got the Edge, I must have confused the two different vehicles now and thought the Edge also had a Tow/Haul function. Funny that the Edge owner's manual even mentions the Tow button, but even the manual must be generic in some forms.

Well, looks like this was a 1 post wonder.

2011edgese, on mine if you open the driver's door and then look low on the post between the front door and where the rear door is still closed, you will see a label with the date at the top left. It is only the month and year. Mine is a 2013 but I would think yours would be in the same area unless the car had been repainted or repaired and it had been removed.

Towing limits per the Ford towing manual is 1500 lbs for the 2.0 I4 EcoBoost FWD, 3500 lbs for the 3.5 V-6 FWD or AWD, and 2000 lbs for the 3.7 V-6 Sport model with 22 inch wheels FWD or AWD. Towing over 2000 lbs requires the Class II towing option and the correct engine (3.5 V-6). You can only order the factory towing option on a Limited or an SEL. You can not get it on the Sport because of the limits placed by Ford on the 22 inch wheels. You also can not get 22 inch wheels and the tow package on a Lincoln MKX.

Copied from the Ford towing guide I posted a link to in an above post. Perhaps the TorqShift transmission has the Tow/Haul button standard? What is the difference between a TorqShirft transmission and the transmission they are saying to just downshift manually? Since I have the factory tow option, when I found the Tow/Haul switch or selection, I thought it was a part of the tow package. Maybe it's really a part of the TorqShift transmission? What determines if you have a TorqShift transmission? V-6 engine? Towing On Hills – Do wnshift the transmission to assist braking on steep downgrades and to increase power (reduce lugging) when climbing hills – W ith TorqShift ® transmission, select Tow/Haul Mode to automatically eliminate unwanted gear search when going uphill and help control vehicle speed when going downhill

The problem on the F150's (model year 2010 mostly I believe) is the rear defroster gets too hot on one of the rear window sections and blows it out. I have had two cars in the last 45 years that had the rear window blow out for no apparent reason. Both times was while driving and I wasn't near any bridges or other cars. One was a convertible with the roof up and the other was a hardtop. I agree, I think it is just a defect in the glass during the manufacturing process which finally reaches a breaking point. We also had a half wall glass shower enclosure shatter one evening for no apparent reason. The shower hadn't been used for about 14 hours since the morning. Wife and I were sitting in the living room and heard a loud noise. Went into the bathroom and the glass was shattered as if it had been hit with something. I even looked at the ceiling to make sure a meteorite hadn't done the damage!

I have seen those type strips with the manufacturers symbol on various new vehicles (Cadillac, Buick, Lexus, Ford, etc) They are installed by an aftermarket detailing company which has no connection with the manufacturer. Many new car dealerships contract with these different companies or owner's to install these stripes. Look in the phone book or do an online search for these type of businesses. You might even talk to the service department or the sales manager of a dealership where you have seen these installed. Here's a quick link I found online to one such company. I am not affiliated with any company that does this type of work, just happened to find this one first. http://www.pinstripekits.com/luxury-car-logo-pinstripe-kits/

Here is a link for the Ford site which describes the tow package, and the consequence if you tow without the factory package optional package installed (loss of warranty). How strict they would enforce that, I have no idea. How could they tell if you towed? I have no idea. I do know the tow package was not an option on an SE model. This is for a 2013, but I am sure the 2012 is the same. Perhaps if they even see a hitch on the vehicle and not an upgraded radiator they could deny warranty coverage? http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/13flrv&tt_edge_oct1.pdf Interesting that I checked some older posts about the 2008 models, and owner's talked about the package containing transmission fluid cooler and oil cooler. Now the 2011 and up models don't specifically mention either one of those items. Looking at replacement parts for a 2012, there is a transmission fluid cooler shown. I think maybe all 2011 and up Edge's may have the cooler for the transmission. It is shown as part 7A095B on one of the Ford parts catalogs found on line. The other item included with the tow package is the Tow Mode setting which will change the transmission shift points, and other transmission behavior when it is set to on. I have never towed with my Edge which has the factory package so I don't know how much of a difference it really makes. I have read other forums where the owner's praised the Trailer Sway setting while towing.

I was surprised also to see how reasonable the price in Puerto Rico was compared to Canadian prices. Perhaps because it is a US territory? I just looked at postal rates and it shows all USPS rates apply with no extra charges. Never knew that, and always listed anything I ever had for sale to be shipped only to the lower 48 states. Now I know better.

Welcome and enjoy your new Edge. If you don't mind, what is the cost of the vehicle compared to US models? Also, what cost is added for shipping? I know Canadian owner's pay more even though the car is built in Canada, and the US dollar vs the Canadian dollar isn't that much of a difference for the last several years.

2011edgese, I may be the member you are referring to regarding your posts about the transmission thump. I posted that you had hi-jacked a different thread totally unrelated to the transmission problem with your complaints about it. You also posted that you didn't want to take it in to the dealership because you didn't want to deal with a run around if they couldn't duplicate the problem. The transmission is causing problems for some owner's and there are several TSB's that have been issued. I would suggest that you take it to a dealer with those TSB's and see if they can help you. Here is a link with information for the TSB's. It has helped some owner's, others not so much. I see you have read it and posted a question on it, but right now it might be the best way to address your transmission concern. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/6728-transmission-thump/ I have experienced the "bang" one time in my 2013 Edge Limited. I was driving on the freeway about 60 MPH when suddenly I heard a loud "bang" from the rear of the vehicle. I thought someone had hit me, or that I ran over something in the road and it hit the underbody. When I got off the freeway I checked for damages but saw nothing. I even posted on this forum about it but can't find the post now. It was about 1 1/2 years ago from what I recall. Only the one time, never happened again. I have 27000 miles now. Good luck to those who are experiencing the hard shift or "bang" in their transmissions. Get it documented with your dealer now even if they say they couldn't find anything wrong. Having it on record may be helpful in the future.

"This was the first North American car I have had. Will continue to buy foreign...this shit doesn't happen at Honda or Volkswagen!" I had a next door neighbor who was a master mechanic at a Honda dealership. He could have worked 18 hours a day, including Sundays, if he wanted because there was such a back log of cars needing repairs. This was a large dealership that had at least 12 work bays, and 8 mechanics. I never have driven past a Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen, etc dealership that didn't have a repair shop, or that didn't need an appointment to have work done. Sorry you have the problems with your MKX. Wondering if the windshield was replaced at one time, or if you bought the car new?

Bite the bullet, have the dealer at least get it into their files for any future failure. There are several TSB's for the problem, but you will have to go to the dealer.