Grey

Outside applications will require different sealing than inside, so keep that in mind. Most body parts are found by drilling down through an illustration, rather than part name. Between the Ford engineers and the service parts analysts, the same type part can have multiple names. The illustration gives the parts personnel the base part number for the part and they look up specific applications from there. Most of these parts would not be dealer stocked, so you can't just walk the bins until you find something you might use. They are so infrequently replaced, they would be very low volume parts. You might also try a salvage yard and look at interior lamps, trunk lamps, door panel lamps, etc. from all makes and models of vehicles.

Welcom Okie! (Only another Okie can call us that) You will love the black - nothing looks classier. What part of the state are you in? We were raised in Enid and Alva (Carmen). Hope you enjoy the forum and your new ride. :happy feet: :happy feet:

Ford specifically states that conditions caused by vehicle modifications are not covered by the Ford warranty. This has far reaching posibilities. Modify wiring and fry a computer, short wiring and start a fire, overpower and blow out speakers, overload circuits, damage trim, wires caught in controls, etc. and it will likely be your responsibility. Can a Service advisor overlook a modification and submit a claim for fixing a mess up? Sometimes. But when Ford calls for the causal part for inspection, the dealer may be charged back for the claim. So, make your modifications under the assumption that you will be responsible for any damage it causes down the line, or over time.

If there is an oil related engine failure -sludge, overfilled, low oil level/heat related, out of oil, etc. then no number of receipts will satisfy a warranty specialist. Oil samples will be taken and analyzed to determine the cause of the condition. A receipt doesn't prove anything, any more than a corner lube repair order proves that maintenance was actually done. It is rare that anyone has engine failure due to the type of oil they use or who changes it. But when it happens, and I've seen lots of them over 32 years, it's usually not warrantable because proper maintenance was not done with approved maintenance parts. The next worse case is driving into deep water and hydro-locking the engine - again - not warrantable. How many expose' reports have we seen where the corner shop didn't replace the filter, just cleaned it off, put oil on the shocks/struts to prompt a replacement, etc. Don't take someone's word for what they have done or what materials they have used. Check the oil level after service and look to see if they put on a new filter (I would mark the old one so I would know if they changed it or watch them do it.) If your maintenance records are in the dealers files and there is an oil related failure, chances are that Ford and the dealer are going to stand behind their work (even if it is Ford making the dealer fix a problem they caused (filter gasket leak, underfill, etc.). I don't know how much help you would get from a parts supplier or corner lube shop if you have a problem with their maintenance parts or their service.

We did a 24 month lease at $470/month on the MKX (Ultimate Pkg, Heated rear seats and Sirius) MSRP $37.300. We think our son will want the MKX when the lease is up so makes it fairly clean way to uncomplicate the value equation. If (in 18 more months) the vehicle turns out to be something we don't want - we walk away from it - no harm/no foul. We know exactly what it will cost at that time if we want to buy it. (I actually think it will be worth more than the buy-out which will make it a very good deal for our son and daughter-in-law). My experience has been that dealers will negotiate as closely on a lease as an outright sale. You just need to ask the right questions and know what the "Factors" are. :shades:

It is interesting that Amsoil says their 5w20 oil meets the Ford spec (M2C930A) and that you can use any of their oils and maintain your Ford warranty. But, they will not not say that their 5w30 (for example) meets the Ford spec. They also claim that you can go to extended oil change intervals (25,000 miles or more) and maintain your Ford warranty. Ford doesn't say you must use Motorcraft 5w20 - just use oil that meets the Ford specification and change oil according to the maintenance schedule. I guess I'd want to see an oil suppliers warranty on my engine before I decide to give up the Ford warranty.

Several companies refine and produce oil for Motorcraft. The specification that the oil must meet is the key - not the supplier. You can use a full synthetic as long as it meets the Ford specs. Motorcraft oils are formulated to meet the specification every batch - every test. Some oil suppliers will continue to test a marginal formulation untill they get a (lucky) pass - even though 9 prior attempts with the same formulation failed. All they need is one documented pass to say they met the spec. As long as you are going to the expense of using a full synthetic, why not use 0w20. That will avoid even more wear at start-up. Don't let anyone tell you that you need up to a 30 weight oil unless you are constantly towing or racing your vehicle (and operating temps will be up to 300+ degrees). You will not protect the engine with a heavy weight oil, just cause more wear at start-up.

Grey repeats himself ---- "Did you know that our engines are designed to operate at about 212 degrees? The oil specification required by Ford has a "viscosity" (really a centiStroke) value of 10 at that temperature. Most oils are designed to that level at 212 degrees (fairly easy to do.) If you kept your engine running 24/7 most oils would be satisfactory. Did you know that 90% of engine wear happens at start-up? Ambient temperature sets the viscosity of the oil at start-up - thinner is better. A 0-5 weight oil has a flow rating of 40-60 cSt at 75 degrees. The flow ratings for a 10 weight is 100 cS, and for a 30 weight, 250 cSt at 75 degrees. Where would you need the protection of the 20+ weight? When your engine operating temperature is 302 degrees (racing or extreme towing). Why don't you want multi-grade 30-40 weight oils for normal operation? The VI (viscosity improvers) for multi-weight oils will affect the flow of oil at start-up and at normal operating temperatures. It is the flow of oil, not the oil pressure, that protects wear parts of an engine. It is also the oil flow that assists in the cooling of the engine. Inhibit oil flow and increase temperature, as well as start-up wear effects. If thinner is better at start-up, why not specify a 0-20 weight oil? The additive package required to produce a 0-20 weight oil is quite extensive and would be more sensitive to break down over time and mileage. The oil is still oil, it's the additives that lose their ability to provide the correct viscosity at operating temperature, prevent sludge, reduce ash, varnish carbon build-up, etc. Ford engineers have worked through the specifications required for their engine oils and have designed the total system to be compatable with this specification and the prescribed oil change intervals. But since everyone is an expert of sorts, there may be some that disagree."

Since you are talking about ordering, I assume you are referring to a new 2009 model. If so, then Nov/Dec will be very early in the model year and won't have much for incentives. If you are talking about a left over 2008 model, then Oct/Dec. will have good incentives. Actually, right now is a good time to get an '08 model. By Spring, some of the current incentives may be less attractive because sales normally improve by April/May and they are not needed to the same extent. After December of the prior model year, incentives are reduced and dealers are paid final cash on leftover inventory. Up to you to make your best deal then. If price is the only consideration, and last quarter looks like the right timing, go for a leftover '08.

Severe duty suggests transmission fluid change at 30,000 miles. Since there is no prescribed interval for normal duty, I would suggest 60,000 mile service. Most dealerships do the flush type change now. If I were planning to keep the vehicles for 100,000 miles or more, I would do the 60k trans service. Might not need it, but it can't hurt. Look at what happened to the old Taurus owners when they decided the trans didn't need service at 60k - trans replace at 90k. Won't affect me, as I never get one out of warranty, in fact the two year lease on the MKX will be longer than we've had most new cars.

Sounds like a local dealer or FDAF promotion. Call your local dealership and ask them.

If you want to remove metal shavings, replace only the filter. Just don't change out the factory fill oil for 3,000 miles to permit ring wear-in. Full synthetics can permit the cylinder walls to glaze and prevent proper ring seating. (What is the worse that can happen? - using 1 quart of oil every 1,000 - 1,500 miles.) I know some vehicle engines come with full synthetics from the factory and they have been machined to accomodate super slick oil. Most engine wear occurs at start-up. Contary to popular belief, flow = lubrication (not oil pressure). 0w20 oil would be ideal for most engines, but very expensive. Motorcraft 5w20 is a good semi-synthetic oil that can be used in most climates and provides full lubrication for 7,500 miles or more, and it's reasonably priced. I question there would be any benefit to spending big dollars for a full synthetic oil if you are going to change it every 7,500 miles or 6 months. If you are constantly starting your engine at below freezing temps, use 0w20 - that would be worth it.

Solas, leae the factory fill in for at least 3,000 miles to let the rings seat well. The factory recommends 7,500 mile changes for high mileage drivers. Out of warranty, do whatever you like - but stick to 5w20 or 0w20.

Bracket from the frame under the back bumper facia (pasenger side of the vehicle.) Clear the tailpipe and avoid the liftgate swing. Enjoy your MKX - we love ours at 2,500 miles. Looking forward to a nice long road trip. :happy feet: :happy feet:

Your dealer really went to bat for you. He likely had to trade some "points" with the field rep to get that to happen. Glad it worked out for you. :happy feet: :happy feet:

Motorcraft, of course.

If you did not receive the coupon directly from Ford, the dealership can't qualify for the discount. It's not their decision to permit the additional $1,000 - don't blame them. If you did not get the coupon from Ford - then you can't get the additional discount. They know who they sent them to.

The offer says it is New York FDAF specific. If you live in a zip code that is covered by the local incentive you should be eligible.(assuming you will register the vehicle where you live.) Ask you dealer if there are "ownership" model limitations and what proof of ownership you would need. We have said several times on this forum that not all deals are available everywhere - here is an example. YMMV and so might your price. (FDAF = Ford Division Advertising Fund = local incentive and advertising monies contributed by the Company and the Dealers.)

To order the publications, contact Helm, Incorporated at: HELM, INCORPORATED P.O. Box 07150 Detroit, Michigan 48207 Or call: For a free publication catalog, order toll free: 1-800-782-4356 If memory serves, Service Manuals do not include wiring diagrams, so you will have to order them seperately.

No PTU on FWD. :happy feet:

AWD costs about $1,600 more than FWD - gets less fuel economy and in Atlanta will bring about $1,000 or less at resale. I'll pass, as do most Atlantans. If you lived in Reno Nevada, it would be difficult to find or resell a FWD Edge. Consider the need, cost and resale value.

A maintenance plan goes by time and/or miles - which ever comes first. If you get a 3 year 36,000 mile plan and you hit 36,000 miles in 15 months - Plan Over. Get the most miles in the fewest months plan and use the longer change intervals. Many service departments will sell you an ESP contract at very slight mark-up over dealer cost. It is not a profit center for them, just a good way to keep you in their service customer base. The Sales department of the dealership looks at each element as an opportunity for gross so may quote you a higher cost. Any F/L/M dealership can sell you an ESP. Once you decide what coverage you want, call around and go on the internet to find the best price.

I'm glad the snow and ice melted or the sand/salt fell off so you can enjoy your ride. Too bad the service advisor did not explain it to you.

The FL-400 is a smaller version of the FL-1 and FL-300 that were used for decades in most Ford vehicles.

No - you are not a Fleet. If you were a Fleet customer you would have a FIN (Fleet ID Number). The FIN would be required to order the DRL option. Without the FIN, you cannot get the option from the factory. Many dealerships put the X-Plan customers with the fleet department as they treat the X-Plan deals as "Mini's" -( low commission )- and the fleet sales personnel are often compensated differently than floor sales personnel.